Fourdot

Can anyone tell me whats funning through that leaking hose under the passenger side of my 82' 911 and can I just buy a new piece of that hose at autopart store. Thanks

theiceman

That is a total hack job on the brass oil cooling line that runs under the car. Someone cut it off and put a piece of hose on. What a mess.
Do you have a pic of the other end of the hose ?

If you want to do it right see if you can get a replacement line. , even used from a reclaimer is better than that mess

Usually this happens coz some moron put a jack or lift under the car and crushed it. So some grease monkey cuts the piece out and puts a hose in with a clamp and you have that mess.

Amber Gramps

Assuming you intended to ask "what's RUNNING through that leaking hose..."

Welcome. The life blood of your engine is running through that line. The engine oil that lubricates and cools your engine runs up the side of the car to an oil cooler in the right front fender. Listen to Clive and replace the entire brass line.

Also note worthy is the placement of the two lines. They are off their hangers and the one with the bend should be hidden under the rocker.

Pep!RRRR

These are nice:

http://www.elephantracing.com/oilhandling/oilines.htm

Fourdot

Theres a picture of the end of the mess. Doubled up hose clamps there as well. It is clear to me now. Thanks for input. Happy New Year

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

JMHO,....

Given what this hose does, I would replace that line with a new factory one in a NY minute.

The consequences of a catastrophic (undetected) leak or outright failure will be VERY VERY expensive.

BTDT.

Mark Salvetti

You should check the front where the lines come up from the rocker into the right front wheel well. That's also a popular location to place a jack and crush the oil lines.

Your biggest challenge is going to be disconnecting the line at the thermostat in the right rear wheel well. Probably easiest to disconnect all the oil lines at the engine and drop both lines as an assembly. Then you can work on the large nuts with the thermostat in a vise.

Be really careful, it is easy to ruin the threads on the thermostat. Search here and on Pelican for advice.

Mark

theiceman

I agree with mark ..

i ended up using a dremel and carefully cutting through the nut. at the stat. especially since the line needs to be replaced anyway not a big deal. It is very easy to take the aluminum threads off the stat with you when you remove the steel oil line nut.
I even built a crows foot out of an old wrench to help with attaching.

r911

on mine I dropped the whole thing as a unit to make it easier to deal with w/o the poor access in situ

but the worse news is that now you cannot trust anything the PO(s) have done to the car, so your inspection needs to be even more thorough and careful than normal - esp. all fuel and electrical, brake systems

rusnak

+1 on being careful while removing the steel oil line nut from the aluminum thermostat. You can easily strip out the aluminum.

When I bought my '84, both oil lines were crushed flat. I had to buy two oil lines from Porsche. I had no idea about the difficulty removing the oil lines. I just put my big ol crescent wrench on the thermostat, and an oil line wrench on the nut, and cranked them off after spraying with PB Blaster. That had to be just crazy lucky, even though I was being careful. If you do mess up the thermostat, Elephant Racing does sell a special nut that can save it.

dlg993

Before deciding what to do via Pelican, I also endorse visiting the Elephant Racing website, <http://www.elephantracing.com/>. They have developed some very innovative solutions to service the oil lines, and offer a variety of products that should be considered before deciding on a solution. Also, the penetrant, "Aerokroil" by Kano Laboratories is, in my experience, superior to every other penetrant. But a bit pricy, and hard-to-find locally. Kano does support mail orders.

rusnak

^ Yes. Kroil and if needed, the "blue wrench" (gas torch).

I should have explained that I was very green on the ways of aircooled Porsches at the time.

You can buy the liquid Kroil in a half gallon tin. The only good oiler that I have found for it (to slowly lay down a drop of oil, not shoot out a fitful stream) was from the 1970s. Made in Western Germany. Aerokroil is simply the same stuff, conveniently packaged for ease of use.

dlg993

I purchase the Aerokroil. via mail orders, in aerosol cans. They also have a product named, "Silikroil," having some silicone as an ingredient.

theiceman

okay to back up . I think The elephant racing nut is when you cut off the old nut so a couple points here.

The nut is designed for if you are going to use the old line . in this case he is not so is irrelevant.

Rusnak the nut as above will not help you I don't think if you destroy the stat . you cut of the nut to protect the threads stat, then use the new nut.

I just did this whole thing and feel stupid I did not take pics.

dlg993

Elephant Racing also offers new lines, as well as repair options for leaking original lines.