MasonT

Hi all - '77 911S 2.7L. I have removed the Air Injection components and the spigots at the cylinder base (see the pic) - I am wondering how much pressure comes out of these holes and if plugging them with JB Weld would hold sufficiently?
See the middle of the pic just above the exhaust pipe. That blob of JB Weld is quite sturdy - I can not budge it even when exerting quite a bit of prying pressure. Not sure if there would be enough internal pressure created in the cylinder to actually blow it out.
I had removed the pump and fan belt years ago but left the air tube in place - now that I have dropped the engine for refurbishment I want to remove it entirely. I am NOT CONCERNED with passing DEQ of any of that garbage.

Thank you - Mason

NineMeister

No, JB weld will not suffice.

Order 6x 928 torque converter drain plugs and matching copper seals from your local OPC, screw them in with an allen key and the job is done. Do not use anti-seize (copper grease) on the threads.

prschmn

Alternatively 1/8 pipe plugs will screw in. recess them a bit and then stake them.
Maybe not so pure as the drain plugs but----

theiceman

I used these , but there are plugs available .. these have been working for me for over 10 years. took a bolt , put a nut on it , cut off the bolt to the correct length then removed the nut to dress the threads.

NineMeister

From what I recall it is a M10x1.0 thread whereas standard M10 socket screws are M10x1.5 so be wary when sourcing the correct screws.

I also recommend a shouldered plug rather than a taper plug as I have known the taper plugs unscrew during the heat cycles of the engine; shoulder plugs are held firm by the friction grip of the copper sealing washer against the head.

theiceman

Yes it is 1mm pitch. That made my bolts quite a bit more expensive

Shoulder plugs are the way to go with a copper gasket but they were not readily available so I had to make do

MasonT

Thanks guys for all the great responses. I have a very good h/w store in town with a huge section of nuts/bolts so I will head over there and see what I can find. I like the idea of socket head as those will provide much easier access overall.

A couple of those spigots did not come out cleanly - I am a bit nervous about cleaning the threads and tapping them but I think if I am careful and now that you have provided the correct thread I will know what tap to use.

Looking forward to completed this last remaining job before I reinstall the motor.

Cheers!

theiceman

Do not tap. This takes more material out. If in doubt just run a fresh bolt in they're with a little oil on the threads and work it slowly It will be fine.

NineMeister

900.219.010.02 Screw plug M10x1
900.123.033.20 Sealing Ring

Plug approx. $5 each, ring approx. $1 each.

MasonT

Thanks NineM for your invaluable help.

Cheers!

MasonT

Hi guys - I want to bump this thread up to see if someone can advise on what do about these buggered air injection holes. 3 of the spigots came out clean but 2 of them broke off -

Sorry for the poor quality pic - but you probably get the idea. I need to know how to proceed - thinking of using an ez-out or somesuch - and heating the area around it first. Any suggestions?
There is one more spigot - the one that is obstructed by the oil pipe that I need get out but I am going to tread carefully to avoid getting a 3rd one messed up.

TIA!

NineMeister

Hot air gun and an ez-out should do it, or gently drill them through up to 8.5mm to 9.0mm diameter then run a M10x1.0 tap through to restore the thread.