Reiver

From what I've read Alusils are softer than the Nikies so a hard ring will really wear them out quickly, the rings take the wear in Alusils...ergo the chrome stock rings need to be sourced.
You'll also read some rec not rebuilding with alusils but I've seen it done with no issues and the good indy shops here in Phx will do it no problem with the correct parts.
Did you get up with Howard on the Pelican?

Johnm1

I don't know Pat. The Alusil/Reynolds A390 alloy silicon crystals are very hard. The rings ride on the crystals. But, yeah, from what I've read the cylinders wear the rings. I've read phosphate coated iron as the material, but most of the posters on the huge "Re-ringing Alusil cylinders" posted Goetze were the correct brand, some said the P/N was the same for the Nikasils.
Sent Howard a PM on Pelican.
I'm pretty confident that the cylinders wil be ok, based on how well the engine ran...but I could be wrong. Got to wait till 3rd week of this month before I can get a P237 cam tool, so I'll have to hold off on seeing how the cylinders and pistons are until then. Got a lot of other stuff I can do until then, recondition CIS, refurb tin, rebuild starter, paint exhaust, clean and paint engine bay....Oh yeah, send oil cooler and used oil tank I got off to Pacific Oil Cooler.

Reiver

I've read that whole thread too as I was contemplating a rebuild with my 930-16 but swapped for another motor. Interesting stuff but I'd defer to a pro in most cases, especially one I knew well.
You don't want to use the same rings on an Alusil that you do on a Niki. It will work initially but the wear factor is all wrong, I don't know why they do this other than availability....I guess it's hard to get the original chrome Alusil rings but doable.
Howards been a factory trained P mech for 40 years and still goes to factory class updates even tho he has his own indy shop.
The owner mech on this site/P are excellent too...I'd ask all of them about the ring issue...what the heck huh.

Johnm1

Been a while since I updated. Still alive. Had to wait 6 weeks for cam bolt tool, (SIR P237). Got it from Skyway Tools. Really good customer service there. Spoke with actual person who called me when tools were going through customs off ship in California and how long it would take. 5 week back-order. One week through customs, and 3 days to ship.
Wasn't going to try and remove cam bolts without it. It was really fairly easy. The bolts were on at about 90 ft. lbs., so it took some force, but they came off with just a breaker bar. Backed off all valve adjusting screws before hand, just in case. Removed all chain tensioner components and boxes. Cam seals leaking.
Removed heads and cam towers as one assembly. Just removed head nuts. A couple seemed loose, hardly any effort to remove. I would definitely check them for torque in the future.
Removed cylinders. Pistons were in pretty good, so I took that as a good sign. Cylinders all looked super clean. Removed pistons pretty easily. Small jewels screw driver, needle nose pliers and a wooden dowl work really well.
Sent cylinders and pistons over to Zims for check out. Called back and said cylinders and pistons all in spec. They're recommendation was to just clean the cylinders really well and re-ring. (Not sure what I'm going to do yet. Told Wayne at Zims I'd get back with him on Tuesday).
Got all the head studs off in about an hour. All the exhaut studs came off without heat. Just double nutted them. Didn't feel like there was any Loctite on them at all. The intake studs were a different story. They were on really tight. The intake studs looked good to. Just a couple had some corrosion. Thought about leaving them as is. But, you know how it goes. Had to use mapp torch on several. But just double nutted them. So, at case now.

Johnm1

left cylinders and heads. Heads and cam towers on bench.

Johnm1

cylinder head stud removal. Pretty sure case-through bolts on right side leaking. Don't think cylinder bases were leaking.

Reiver

John,
Looks pretty good. I'll get you a contact number answer before this evening. I suspect time is important when the parts are at a shop.

Johnm1

Thanks Pat,
Not sure what to do. Read a couple of Howard's old posts where he said he never reconditioned them, just cleaned, so that would be in line with Zims. E-mailed Ollies, Ike replied that they use Sunnen procedure without problem, but have 8 to 12 week backlog! Called John Edwards at Costa Mesa and he says he uses Sunnen procedure and just has a five day backlog.
Just thinking there has got to be some buildup of ring material between the silicon crystals that needs to be etched out. Maybe washing them in giant parts washer a couple of times might be enough to do that.

Reiver

John,
Called but got answering svc...holiday I suspect..so I fwded your above comment adding that the pots were all within spec.
I'll keep at it until we get a response.

Johnm1

Going to disassemble cam towers in morning, and maybe split case.

Ed Hughes

Brings back memories.

theiceman

okay just because i have never done it ......
i have leaking that looks like johns. it is coming from above the return tubes so could be base gaskets or case bolts. do the cylinders have to be removed to get to the case bolts ? i imagine so . also if they are leaking are new bolts required or simply some work like ians thread ?

pretty good having too related threads running like this at the same time. opportunity to learn lots.

Johnm1

Heads, cam towers, chain boxes, rockers, cams, and pistons and cylinders with Zims for inspection, cleaning and rebuilding of heads. Ordered rings. Feeling super stressed. Hoping I made right desicions.

This weekend I'll split case.

Johnm1

Ice,
Pretty sure you'd need to remove heads to get at case through bolts. You'd have to remove tin. Not sure about resealing. Everyone I spoke with advised case split. Maybe someone with experience can post.

theiceman

hmm ... after seeing what your doing .. oil aint that expensive