Reiver

John,
Sent you a PM

Johnm1

Couple of questions for you guys:

Zims found some slight pitting on one the cam lobes at outer edge. Saying it's not bad and can be re-used as is. There recommendation is to take oppurtunity to regrind both to Elgin's 330 SC sport cam profile and grind rockers to match. Is this worth it?
This is somewhat of a budget rebuild.
Also, the intake head studs looked almost new except for 3 which had some corrosion. Should I reuse the ones that look good?

Ed Hughes

These are the big/tough questions-when you go down this far, it is a matter of financial prudence, in my opinion. To not do the cams and rockers at this point, would be wrong, but that is only my opinion.

Johnm1

Split case tonight. Removed crank, oil pump and rods. Removing crank pulley was the hardest part to remove. Breaker bar and jack handle got the pulley nut loose. Splitting case wasn't too bad. Rubber hammer in a few places, then came off. Nothing more to remove.

Johnm1

couple more pics

Reiver

Good job. Hard to tell from pics but looks in pretty good nick.
What does your casual observation tell you?

Johnm1

Actually, everything looked pretty good. Some slight wear on main bearings. I'll replace all the bearings though. Probably have crank checked out. Trying to decide if I want to spend money on Raceware rod bolts. After getting the sticker shock from the Porsche piston rings, I've been trying to figure out what makes sense to go extra on. Noticed the right side of the case does not have chamfers for case through bolt o-rings.

I didn't immediately notice it, because I removed the right side heads with cam towers as single unit, snapped a pic of valves then set it on bench valves down and didn't go back to it until the morning I disassembled the cam towers before I took everything to Zims, but Zims called and spoke about parts and said, " hey, did you know one of your valve springs is broken?" I went back and looked at photos and #5 valve is down in pic. #5 piston is fine. Don't know how long it was like that. Dodged a bullet.

Johnm1

In the future during valve adjustments, I'll definitely press on springs and check torque on all head studs.

theiceman

i agree about the springs but there is no way in hell i am putting a tool on those head studs .. I am just gonna check that they are all there

This is typically how my life goes ...
" hey this one could use a little tightening .. ..hmm .. now its really loose for some reason ...... "

Johnm1

Yeah Ice, that is definitey a sinking feeling. Really, I thought about not replacing my headstuds at all...all of them looked good.

Ed Hughes

Although SC rod bolts are stronger than 3.2, I'd go ARP there, and racing valve springs and Ti retainers for the heads. A bit of insurance against a possible over-rev down the road.

JPO

Forgive me if it was covered and I missed it when reviewing the thread but what was the actual cause of the leaks?

Cheers

Johnm1

@JPO - looks like several case through bolts leaking, cam seals, oil cooler cracked, front and rear crank seals, rocker shafts...think that covers it.

Johnm1

So, my next job is to start cleaning all the parts I've bagged that are not going to Zims. What is the consensus on cadmium plating case through bolts and nuts. I was planning on it. Now I'm thinking it may be a waste of time. Probably just clean everything. I'll replace all the case perimeter nuts.
Is plating the case through hardware worth it?

theiceman

lol

sounds like my car ,, quicker to identify what wasnt leaking ..