Ed Hughes

I pulled mine for about 3 weeks a number of years ago-spiffed up all the metal, cleaned the motor, new seals in the triangle of death, re-sealed oil cooler and had it tested/cleaned, new front and rear crank seals, clutch, etc. Easy with the motor out.

Johnm1

Pretty sure you guys are far more talented than me...but this has got me thinking. The cylinders appear to be leaking at the case, besides the seals and loose head studs what else could be causing the leaks? Case through bolts?

Amber Gramps

Before you panic degrease everything thoroughly, to the point you could eat off it....then check it often...like every miles, to see where the leak is originating. Last thing you want to do is go in deeper than you need to.

Johnm1

Yeah, I'm starting to think dropping it might be the best thing to do since I have several to leaks to fix. Oil leaks at cylinder basrs could be from above...triangle of death or oil return tubes?

theiceman

..or it could be from the cylinder base .... just sayin..

Johnm1

Ice, your bedside manner needs work...

Johnm1

So, I think I know what's going on with the cylinder bases. Looks like oil cooler leak is being blown back over cylinders on right side. The oil mess gets progressively less towards the rear of the car.

The left side looks like bottom case through bolt leak is being blown over case and base of cylinders as well.

There is definitely a leak from above the rear seal somewhere. Going to drop engine.

Johnm1

there is a strange oil leak at the #1 cylinder exhaust manifold.

Peter Zimmermann

When your rocker covers are off be sure to check the rocker arm shafts for leakage. Use a small dentist's mirror to look at their ends.

Also, your cooler might not be leaking, it might be the oil pressure switch and thermostat o-ring above the cooler.

Johnm1

Well, engine is out. Anyone else have a "what the hell did I just do", when looking at the engine on the floor moment

Anyway, had a couple of casualties. One, was the oil line from crankcase to thermostat oil line. Thing was seized really bad. Tried heating and chiseling. Finally, cut the nut off the thermostat line, but hit the threads on the line. The second, was a green hard fuel line, that runs somewhere...from the engine compartment.

Good news, bad news. Good news, "triangle of death" is not leaking. Bad news, "triangle of death" is not leaking. Anyway, narrows it down to rocker shafts and oil cooler on the right side. Pretty sure rocker and cam shaftseal is leaking on left side. Camshaft seal on right side is leaking also.

Had a heart stop moment where I thought I would have the least amount of trouble. Engine was on ground with trans. Had engine on ATV jack. Had trans mount supported with floor jack. Began to move ATV jack and trans mount slipped from floor jack and shift shaft landed on wood support on floor jack. Hopefully shift shaft is ok. I'll have Zims check it out.

Sent thermostat and lines up to Zims to be repaired. Basically going to replace all oil lines.

Johnm1

Some pics of my failures. Learned that my 3 ton Craftsman jack is fine for most tasks, but sucks for this. New low-profile high-lift is on the wish-list.

Need to figue out out a way to get engine on engine stand.

Got a pair of 12 ton jackstands. Really like them. Gong to leave engine on platform until this weekend. Maybe Saturday get it on engine stand.

theiceman

no it doesn't ..

Johnm1

Just kidding Ice.

Found a broken A/C mount stud. Looks like M6. It's flush with rocker housing. Don't really have expierence extracting bolts. Use left handed drill bit with center punch? Take entire engine to machine shop? Remove rocker and take to machine shop?

Johnm1

Quick question. The breather, pressure switch and thermostat ate not leaking. Do I replace seals and switch anyway?

Peter Zimmermann

Oh heck yes! If you're lucky it might be 50K+ miles before that engine is out again, and the switch/o-ring might not last that long.