Engine upgrade
01-14-2011, 02:42 PM
#31
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Ed, your car is great but it didn't get that way overnight and I'm sure you didn't do it thinking you would recoup your money either. The 3.3 or the 3.6 will have close to the same horsepower. I don't drive like it's my last day on this good earth and respect the other needed suspension and brakes upgrades which will be fun and challenging to do.
01-14-2011, 02:50 PM
#32
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Here is a 3.2 turbo look that has had a turbo added a few years back. Seems Spencer was happy with the results...:rock_on:
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ml#post5383907
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...ml#post5383907
Thanks
01-14-2011, 02:53 PM
#33
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Ed, your car is great but it didn't get that way overnight and I'm sure you didn't do it thinking you would recoup your money either. The 3.3 or the 3.6 will have close to the same horsepower. I don't drive like it's my last day on this good earth and respect the other needed suspension and brakes upgrades which will be fun and challenging to do.
We can only assume you plan on taking advantage of the higher HP, as this is the reason you are doing this, is it not?
01-14-2011, 03:03 PM
#34
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I think Ed has it right. If you are incrementally changing the HP, then this can all be incremental over time. Stage 1 -- Brakes, Suspension, then Power. So the car can handle the power. Stage 2- etc. Stage 3 - etc. Adding SSI's / Sport exhaust might add 10 hp. Hot cam and ITB's might add 20-30... But if you are going to increase HP on day 1 by 60%+ (180 to 300)... then the brakes, suspension, etc cant be incremental. It just all needs to get done or your car will be unstable and unsafe at speed.
01-14-2011, 03:10 PM
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If you recurve that Dizzy and add the ITB's, upgrade that exhaust... upgrade that suspension... that will be all the car you can handle for quite some time unless you have alot of track time under your belt...
01-14-2011, 03:27 PM
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I did take some time to do this. But it started with suspension round 1, then on to brakes, then on to engine round 1, then to suspension round 2, then to engine round 2. If you're going to forced induction, I think brakes at a minimum are required to start with, as you'll make a big leap. Stock brakes are not up to the challenge, IMO. Then, you'll quickly see the thing squatting badly in the rear, and realize you need suspenders. Definitely needed, but not as critical as binders.
We can only assume you plan on taking advantage of the higher HP, as this is the reason you are doing this, is it not?
We can only assume you plan on taking advantage of the higher HP, as this is the reason you are doing this, is it not?
We still got 5 feet of snow here until March.
01-14-2011, 03:41 PM
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I think Ed has it right. If you are incrementally changing the HP, then this can all be incremental over time. Stage 1 -- Brakes, Suspension, then Power. So the car can handle the power. Stage 2- etc. Stage 3 - etc. Adding SSI's / Sport exhaust might add 10 hp. Hot cam and ITB's might add 20-30... But if you are going to increase HP on day 1 by 60%+ (180 to 300)... then the brakes, suspension, etc cant be incremental. It just all needs to get done or your car will be unstable and unsafe at speed.
01-14-2011, 03:57 PM
#39
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Ill defer to Ed and other experts since mine are just new but in stock form. i dont really have an opinion that would be based on fact. 
. Sounds like an exciting project. Congrats!
. Sounds like an exciting project. Congrats!
01-14-2011, 04:03 PM
#40
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I'm no expert, but there are 930 brake setups, and in my case, I've got 993 calipers all the way around with large Willwood rotors up front and 930 rear rotors. All bolt-on stuff, and I know Steve @ Rennsport sells the kits to do this. A turbo master cylinder is part of the upgrade too, since you're pushing more fluid. Lots of stopping power. You'll probably want to maximize your rubber too, so that you have something to hold on to the road with.
01-15-2011, 02:02 AM
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01-15-2011, 06:13 PM
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My car started as an sc... I have 3.5 turbo motor, fully built with all the goodies, upgraded all the suspension, short bell housing 4 sp with shorter gears. I dont even want to tell you how much work is involved and how much it is going to cost unless you do it yourself. I have about 420RWHP and I also have a widebody figerglass kit so the kit weighs about 2500lbs.. The car goes like an anamal.
If I had to do it again I would start with a 930 only because of the loss of money you will see but there is nothing like it because of the weight and the power.. I have full boost by 2700rpms and have close to no turbo lag... As far as chasis handling the power. I have no problem with that. I dont track it but I use to have my AMA motorcycle racing license so I know how it should handle and it is fine for me.
The 3.6 is the way to go if you want good reliablity. It is alot more reliable than the turbo motor. Even though I have had no issues with mine. I have some friends with the 3.6 and it is great on a 5 speed. It doesn't hold water against a worked turbo motor but is alot more modern motor. I am a HP freak so I wanted the turbo motor.
In the long run it will be cheaper to sell yours and buy a 930 or 964 and start from there.
John
If I had to do it again I would start with a 930 only because of the loss of money you will see but there is nothing like it because of the weight and the power.. I have full boost by 2700rpms and have close to no turbo lag... As far as chasis handling the power. I have no problem with that. I dont track it but I use to have my AMA motorcycle racing license so I know how it should handle and it is fine for me.
The 3.6 is the way to go if you want good reliablity. It is alot more reliable than the turbo motor. Even though I have had no issues with mine. I have some friends with the 3.6 and it is great on a 5 speed. It doesn't hold water against a worked turbo motor but is alot more modern motor. I am a HP freak so I wanted the turbo motor.
In the long run it will be cheaper to sell yours and buy a 930 or 964 and start from there.
John