911SC service advice
05-09-2010, 01:38 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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911SC service advice
Hi all, I'm going to be attempting to service the SC this weekend - I say attempting because:
1. It will be my first time
2. I am the world's worst DIYer (made worse by the fact I'll try anything)
So, can anyone advise me of the bits I'll need and where to get them plus any other tips? Depending on how well it goes I'm thinking:
Oil
Oil Filter
Spark plugs
Leads
Distributer cap
Anything else I should aim to do? And is anything likely to go wrong? I'll be doing it with a mate who has a similar experience/capability level to my own, so the car's in safe hands!
All advice gratefully received - I literally have no knowledge of servicing. But I'm looking forward to it
1. It will be my first time
2. I am the world's worst DIYer (made worse by the fact I'll try anything)
So, can anyone advise me of the bits I'll need and where to get them plus any other tips? Depending on how well it goes I'm thinking:
Oil
Oil Filter
Spark plugs
Leads
Distributer cap
Anything else I should aim to do? And is anything likely to go wrong? I'll be doing it with a mate who has a similar experience/capability level to my own, so the car's in safe hands!
All advice gratefully received - I literally have no knowledge of servicing. But I'm looking forward to it
05-09-2010, 02:28 PM
#2
Team Owner
Well congrats on your first atempt .. I am qualified to respond to this post given that a similar atempt by myself blew the top of my engine right off .. but that is another story and one that I seam quite well known for around here unfortunately ..
You will be fine ....
I guess by now you know how to check the oil so no danger there , just make sure you get the oil out of the crankcase AND the oil tank ... and it comes out in a hurry so have lots of cardboard down and have a REALLY big container. if you are not sure , do the crankcase first then transfer the oil out of your container , then do the oil tank . ( tip ) drive arounf for 5 minutes in one or two gears lower than you normally would , this will spike your oil temp ensuring the stat is fully open. pull over crawl under and immediately crack your drain plugs . I have 2 pans so I crack em both immediately. ( I usually have the wrenches gloves and eye protection ready ( no jacking required ) . You can have your mechanic ready so it should be kind of fun . once they are cracked and draining just let them drain while you do the other stuff.
Pull the round fuel pump relay ( red one closest to the " windscreen " ) and leave it in the front area ( stops you from restarting with no oil if you forget and i will come back to this later ) .
Clean up your drain plugs and have new gaskets copper or aluminum , have had no issues with either ,
Change your filter and clean up the oil you spilled by the wiring loom . coat fesh oil on the new filter gasket so it doesn't bond to the base .
Plugs ,,,,
the best tool is the one that came in the tool kit with your car , use that .. always when putting in new plugs screw all the way in without a wrench , just use the tool with your fingers , this will prevent cross threads and stripping . Some plugs come with a coating on the threads but I always use a little graphite powder on the threads to ease assembly. Do one at a time and make sure you hear the click as the lead goes back on. do not overtighten plugs but there is a crush washer on them .
The leads and distributor cap is the tricky area if this is your first time . take a digital pic if you are going to take everything off. In fact leave the leads on the cap , just remove from the plugs and drag it all out if your confident. Draw your self a pic if it helps.
When putting the new cap on the rubber of the leads may push back , a little dielectric grease on th einside of the boots can help here and make sure you have a good fit.
While you have the cap off you should snap on a new rotor. it just pops off and on .
You will see the cap is keyed and will only sit down in one orientation. once your leads and cap and rotor are back on and it is all dressed nice ( hopefully uou are using the braided ones with the ground. ) that part is done.
Put your oil drian plugs back in now with your new gaskets, put about 7 quarts in and go try and start it .. it wont start cause the fuel relay is out but you are looking for the oil pressure to go up / Once it does you have oil in the system and pressured up .
Put your relay back in and you are good to go .. go drive around until the car is fully warmed up and top off your oil as needed ,
Done ..have a pint and watch Doctor Who ..
You will be fine ....
I guess by now you know how to check the oil so no danger there , just make sure you get the oil out of the crankcase AND the oil tank ... and it comes out in a hurry so have lots of cardboard down and have a REALLY big container. if you are not sure , do the crankcase first then transfer the oil out of your container , then do the oil tank . ( tip ) drive arounf for 5 minutes in one or two gears lower than you normally would , this will spike your oil temp ensuring the stat is fully open. pull over crawl under and immediately crack your drain plugs . I have 2 pans so I crack em both immediately. ( I usually have the wrenches gloves and eye protection ready ( no jacking required ) . You can have your mechanic ready so it should be kind of fun . once they are cracked and draining just let them drain while you do the other stuff.
Pull the round fuel pump relay ( red one closest to the " windscreen " ) and leave it in the front area ( stops you from restarting with no oil if you forget and i will come back to this later ) .
Clean up your drain plugs and have new gaskets copper or aluminum , have had no issues with either ,
Change your filter and clean up the oil you spilled by the wiring loom . coat fesh oil on the new filter gasket so it doesn't bond to the base .
Plugs ,,,,
the best tool is the one that came in the tool kit with your car , use that .. always when putting in new plugs screw all the way in without a wrench , just use the tool with your fingers , this will prevent cross threads and stripping . Some plugs come with a coating on the threads but I always use a little graphite powder on the threads to ease assembly. Do one at a time and make sure you hear the click as the lead goes back on. do not overtighten plugs but there is a crush washer on them .
The leads and distributor cap is the tricky area if this is your first time . take a digital pic if you are going to take everything off. In fact leave the leads on the cap , just remove from the plugs and drag it all out if your confident. Draw your self a pic if it helps.
When putting the new cap on the rubber of the leads may push back , a little dielectric grease on th einside of the boots can help here and make sure you have a good fit.
While you have the cap off you should snap on a new rotor. it just pops off and on .
You will see the cap is keyed and will only sit down in one orientation. once your leads and cap and rotor are back on and it is all dressed nice ( hopefully uou are using the braided ones with the ground. ) that part is done.
Put your oil drian plugs back in now with your new gaskets, put about 7 quarts in and go try and start it .. it wont start cause the fuel relay is out but you are looking for the oil pressure to go up / Once it does you have oil in the system and pressured up .
Put your relay back in and you are good to go .. go drive around until the car is fully warmed up and top off your oil as needed ,
Done ..have a pint and watch Doctor Who ..
05-09-2010, 02:36 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Cheers Ice, great advice!
Do you know how much oil I need and any recommended type?
BTW - I changed the distributor cap and leads on my old 3.2 and remember the need to take a photo! I think I operated a one-in-one-out system
Do you know how much oil I need and any recommended type?
BTW - I changed the distributor cap and leads on my old 3.2 and remember the need to take a photo! I think I operated a one-in-one-out system
05-09-2010, 02:45 PM
#4
Team Owner
I buy a case of 12 quarts and how much you need typically depends on how much you get out . with my method above i get a LOT out .. i usually buy 12 quarts and that is enough for the change and some top ups until the next change ( 5.000 km )
The oil type debate could go on forever. There is a good thread on ZDDP adatives posted a while ago . I am not sure what is available in the UK but i use Brad Penn as I can drive there and get it .
Mobil 1 15w-50 seams to have high levels of ZDDP. I would ask other 911 owners in your area what they use and find readily available .. do you have a regional forum you can ask ?
I don't generaly buy the " synthetic is best " line as I have a short oil change interval anyway , Brad penn is semi synthetic but don't buy becasue of that , but more becasue of the designed in addative package. I think any good quality oil will probably be fine in the right grade especially a " high milage oil " as they tend to have higher levels of ani wear adatives.
Good luck .
PS the rotor on a SC spins counterclockwise .. in case that is important .. was to me
The oil type debate could go on forever. There is a good thread on ZDDP adatives posted a while ago . I am not sure what is available in the UK but i use Brad Penn as I can drive there and get it .
Mobil 1 15w-50 seams to have high levels of ZDDP. I would ask other 911 owners in your area what they use and find readily available .. do you have a regional forum you can ask ?
I don't generaly buy the " synthetic is best " line as I have a short oil change interval anyway , Brad penn is semi synthetic but don't buy becasue of that , but more becasue of the designed in addative package. I think any good quality oil will probably be fine in the right grade especially a " high milage oil " as they tend to have higher levels of ani wear adatives.
Good luck .
PS the rotor on a SC spins counterclockwise .. in case that is important .. was to me
05-10-2010, 11:59 PM
#5
Just so you dont get the huge plume of white smoke and think you blew up your motor....on the refill, put in 8 quarts, then warm up the car to op temp. Then fill to 1/2 way between the marks on the dipstick.
05-11-2010, 04:22 PM
#6
Addicted Specialist
Rennlist Member
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BTW, if you plan on doing more regular maintenance, do yourself a huge favor and find a Bentley Service manual. These are the best shop manuals out there, IMHO.
Edward
05-12-2010, 01:22 AM
#7
Poseur
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If you're THAT bad make sure you replace the PROPER spark plug wires on the right locations on the distributor cap!!!! There's nothing wrong with using a digital camera to take BEFORE and AFTER shots to make sure you didn't forget something!
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05-12-2010, 01:34 AM
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06-06-2010, 02:05 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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Just reporting back that all went well (although delayed a couple of weeks!). Only had time to do the oil and filter but it was much easier than I'd feared. Very satisfying knowing that you've saved money, had fun and learned something at the same time. Thanks for all the advice. Will tackle plugs, leads etc next time.
