imcarthur

This came up on another thread & rusnak & I decided that it deserved its own post. I did mine several years ago with help from some threads which I will post below (eventually).

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The Carrera engine fuel line is notorious for cracking with age. It sends pressurized gas to the fuel rails & rupture can lead to an engine fire. And you don’t want that. Here is what I am talking about:





The engine fuel line from the PET (modified for clarity):



930 110 595 05 (9) a long T line of copper & rubber that runs from both rails back to the fuel filter - labeled A, B & C above

930 110 411 03 (19) hose from fuel regulator to damper – labeled D

930 110 509 01 (11) small line off the bottom of the regulator – labeled E

You have 3 options for replacement:

1. Buy OEM parts from Porsche or Porsche parts reseller
   Advantage: Keeping it bone stock Disadvantage: Cost & installation
2. Have a local hose shop make up new lines & reuse the old ends
   Advantage: Some find it easier Disadvantage: Sourcing & down time
3. Use braided hose & ends & make your own
   Advantage: Ease of installation Disadvantage: Claims that it is not as safe as stock

I will concentrate on Option #3 – the DIY approach with new braided lines. I opted for this method because it was an easier DIY since an engine drop is not required & even the intake can be left in place. I will admit however, that I didn’t do the E line. It & the D line on my car looked brand new so I left them until a later date. I have the parts here waiting.

I should briefly touch on the safety issue that some raise about AN fittings. AN fittings & hose are widely used in racing cars & industrially for many, many uses. While probably not recommended for very high pressure use, they are easy to install, easy to uninstall & safe for standard fuel & oil lines etc.

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********** DISCLAIMER **********
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Gas burns. All it needs is ignition & oxygen. Think of your 911 engine as one big Zippo. If you do not have confidence in the quality or use of twist-on connectors for fuel, or the assembly of same, then this is not something that you should attempt. Although they are used extensively in many, many applications of fluid transfer, the success of their usage is totally dependent on the quality of the terminations. If you decide to ignore this disclaimer and recklessly throw caution to the wind and use these fittings as a fuel line on your car, the risk is all yours. Just outfit the family in properly sized Nomex suits, and you should be good to go.

Parts List:

1 x M16x1.5 X -6AN 16mm 90 degree to -6AN hose end
4 x M16x1.5 X -6AN 16mm straight to -6AN hose end
1 x M16x1.5 X -6AN adaptor
1 x -6AN 45 degree hose end
3 x -6AN straight hose end
1 x -6AN tee
7ft x -6AN braided hose



Sourcing:

The 16mm fittings are European & are available from:

BAT Inc - Sarasota, FL Look in the Porsche oil cooling pdf on the site – starting on page 16.

The standard -6AN fittings & hose I sourced from:

Summit Racing Search on Fittings & Hoses (There are lots of sources on the net so look around if you wish)

Basic Instructions:

Hose A: 12 ¼” with 16mm straight to -6AN on one end & -6AN on the other
Hose B: 9 ¾” with 16mm straight to -6AN on one end & -6AN on the other
Hose C: 34” with 16mm 90 degree to -6AN on one end & -6AN on the other
Hose D: 15 ¾” with 16mm straight to -6AN on one end & with 45 degree on one end (use with adaptor on the regulator side)
Hose E: no measurement (just duplicate) with 16mm straight to -6AN on one end
Tee: the Tee is used at the junction of the lines from the rails & the line to the filter

These measurements should be accurate (posted by Jerry Brinkley HERE & I used them) but you are wise to measure your own existing hoses before you cut & terminate.

I didn’t write down a step-by-step how-to but I followed Eric Coffey’s excellent directions found HERE Bear in mind that Eric's post (which you should read) is concentrating on the damper to regulator line. Have an assortment of 10mm sockets - long & short - with extensions & 10mm wrenches, as well as 17mm, 19mm, 22mm & different sizes of adjustables. Are you getting scared, yet? Taking everything apart & accessing some of the fittings will try your patience & skin your knuckles. Do I mention that it's a serious PITA? It is also wise to have some mirrors available & even one of those fancy mirrors on a stick, so you might be able to see what you are doing.

Now take a step back & go read Jerry's & Eric's posts again.

The Reader’s Digest version (mostly stolen from Eric):

1. Disconnect the battery & have a fire extinguisher charged & ready. Gas burns.
2. Remove airbox cover and filter.
3. Remove the 10mm nuts that hold airbox to the intake runners.
4. Remove 10mm nut from the air flow meter (AFM) manifold bracket.
5. Unplug the AFM wiring harness.
6. Unscrew clamp that holds AFM to black rubber intake boot.
7. Remove AFM and airbox as one unit.
8. Block intake boot with a clean cloth.
9. Unscrew clamp to heat exchanger tube.
10. Remove two 8mm bolts (one in front, one behind) holding heat tube to blower motor.
11. Remove heat tube.
12. Remove four 10mm bolts that hold blower shroud in place (this is the black plastic piece that usually has the shell sticker on it). You will need to remove the dizzy cap to gain access to the lower bolt. You don’t have to remove the wires though, just the cap. It may also make things easier if you remove the ground cables that attach to the manifold as well (one 10mm bolt).
13. Remove three 10mm nuts holding the blower motor in place.
14. Unplug wiring harness/plug from the blower motor.
15. Slide blower motor and shroud out (as one unit) out from under the cruise control cable.

At this point, you are ready to remove the main fuel line. Other than the fuel rail & fuel filter connections, it is held by a bolt in the front & a support bracket in the rear. There is also a plastic bracket that includes a wiring harness (my memory is dim & this might be for the damper to regulator line). These last two will require inventive solutions. I dremeled the plastic bracket since I wasn’t going to reuse it. The other support bracket has an Allen bolt that is rear accessible, so a mirror is your friend here.. When all was said & done, I also cut the fuel line with a small hacksaw blade to ease removal because it appears impossible to remove it as one unit.

Once the old fuel line is out, it is a reasonably simple matter to bolt on the new one. I pre-assembled the line with ends, pull-tested it to ensure good connections & then ‘snaked’ it under the intake. The damper to regulator line requires the 16mm 45 + adaptor at the regulator end to make it fit due to the lack of room (as per Jerry’s post linked above). My line was new looking so I left it in place. Ditto the smaller line off the bottom of the regulator. This small line is the Waterloo of this job, since you have to inspect & replace it without being able to see it. I inspected it via a mirror & it looked new so I left it alone. I will replace it anyway when I do my 1st engine drop. Your results may vary . . .

Re-assemble all of the engine components – MAF, heater etc – and with fire extinguisher nearby, start the engine & inspect very carefully for leaks. My installation was perfect & leak free & remains so two years later. It has been added to my occasional inspection list – but then a fuel line deserves to be inspected regularly – along with CV bolts, ER bushings, brake pads etc etc etc . . .

Some pictures:

The passenger side:



Looking down at the driver's side rail:



The Tee looking straight in:



The fuel filter:



-30-

Ian

rusnak

Here's Ian's link for the parts:
http://www.batinc.net/porsche.htm

I will come back and edit this post with more info as well....

mdistel

Did you drop the engine to install? What's the parts cost of option 3?

Mark
87 Targa

imcarthur

No engine drop. Parts are < $150. Option # 2 just might be the cheapest if you are willing to hunt around for a hose shop that can do it. You would have to remove the intake to get the T line off for Options # 1 & # 2. iirc.

Ian

Ed Hughes

Zim's in DFW area, www.allzim.com, sells rebuilt lines. You do have to put up a core deposit. They are a great company, if you've not tried them. Kirk in parts dept knows his sheeott.

Amber Gramps

Just on the off chance someone wants to keep the car in original condition:


https://rennlist.com/forums/5335715-post61.html

theiceman

Gees Pelican seams expensive ..

Amber Gramps

Clive, believe it or not Pelican was $300 off the dealer price. Pelican is actually a screaming deal when faced with a dealer being the only other choice. I did find another source on line for the Carrera oil cooler fan that was way way way less than all others. Saved hundreds on that thing.

rusnak

$368 for the large one is not bad, but $170 for the little teeny tiny one is outrageous. I'm talking about #11 in the PET. It certainly does give one pause.

theiceman

pays to do your research I guess. if you need parts only they have and they are conveinient then I would expect to pay a little more, and I am glad they are around. I guess it is our Job to make sure they remain competative.

Amber Gramps

...and let's remember that Pelican's price isn't set in stone. Once you are a customer they will email discount codes for 10% off next purchase and such. They even have sales reps ( I think the guy that helped me was Tom) to shop and search for you.

Ed Hughes

Hence my suggestion on rebuilt lines from Zim's. I did both high pressure lines for about $200 or less from them a couple of years ago.

But, I must point out that keeping my car in original condition was the furthest thing from my mind at the time!

Amber Gramps

....and your most recent acquisition was a step back toward stock

MDL

Timely post. A little voice in the back of my mind has been telling me to do this for a while now. I guess it's time to check it out...the pictures imcarthur posted kind of scare the $h*t out of me.

Amber Gramps

you may want to have 911 on the speed dial before you look at this picture: