Help ! Have to change my fuel lines.
06-13-2008, 04:45 AM
#46
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Now I understand the fuel filter. BUT, is the OE fuel line for the 3.2 the line that is on there now? was an adapter or extention or some other fitting used? I am just asking....'cause the filter is sitting in a differant direction. This could cause problems.
EDIT: Houston, we have a problem. I can't tell now after looking at the picture what line is fuel and what line is other. We may have to compromise and come up with a hybrid. can you say electric SUV? At this point trying to preserve originallity is out, but safety is still an issue. Zach please take a good long look at the line on the car and the diagram provided.
EDIT2: If the fuel line has the factory bend attatched to the "OUT" side of the fuel filter then you are good to go.
EDIT: Houston, we have a problem. I can't tell now after looking at the picture what line is fuel and what line is other. We may have to compromise and come up with a hybrid. can you say electric SUV? At this point trying to preserve originallity is out, but safety is still an issue. Zach please take a good long look at the line on the car and the diagram provided.
EDIT2: If the fuel line has the factory bend attatched to the "OUT" side of the fuel filter then you are good to go.
06-13-2008, 05:11 AM
#47
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zach13,
Looking at your pictures with number labeled, here is what I did. Here is the order I take off:
(1)
distributor cap and set the plug wire aside
(3)
(2) include the heater motor, 3 bolts I think.
(6)
(5)
(4)
For these, simple stuff, I use normal 3/8" ratchet and sockets. Big flat screw driver for those hoses behind the big rubber intake hose and air intake box.
Now you can be able to access both hands to behide the intake manifolds. Yes, I know it's very hard but posible. On the left, the line from the fuel filter will take you to the T line. The line from the firewall, very left corner, will take you to the bracket where it is connected to little curve line, then to the left fuel regulator? (the bell shape), then to the long straight line along the firewall to the right fuel regulator.
I started to separate the long line off everything on the bracket. Then take the bracket off the intake manifold. On my car, there are 3 bolts. 2 on the side facing from left to right to hold the bracket to the manifold, and 1 facing from front to rear to hold the T line to this bracket. The fuel rail is also hook to the fuel regulator too, if I remember right. Then I pulled everything (bracket which has the fuel regulator, little curvy line) to the left of the engine.
I replaced the little curve line. This line tend to be the one get damage the most to my guess, since it's bent/curve. I also replaced the long line, along the firewall. Regarding tools for the fuel lines, I used 2 sets of normal open wrench and a set of crowfoot wrench (with 3/8" ratchet).
Good luck.
Looking at your pictures with number labeled, here is what I did. Here is the order I take off:
(1)
distributor cap and set the plug wire aside
(3)
(2) include the heater motor, 3 bolts I think.
(6)
(5)
(4)
For these, simple stuff, I use normal 3/8" ratchet and sockets. Big flat screw driver for those hoses behind the big rubber intake hose and air intake box.
Now you can be able to access both hands to behide the intake manifolds. Yes, I know it's very hard but posible. On the left, the line from the fuel filter will take you to the T line. The line from the firewall, very left corner, will take you to the bracket where it is connected to little curve line, then to the left fuel regulator? (the bell shape), then to the long straight line along the firewall to the right fuel regulator.
I started to separate the long line off everything on the bracket. Then take the bracket off the intake manifold. On my car, there are 3 bolts. 2 on the side facing from left to right to hold the bracket to the manifold, and 1 facing from front to rear to hold the T line to this bracket. The fuel rail is also hook to the fuel regulator too, if I remember right. Then I pulled everything (bracket which has the fuel regulator, little curvy line) to the left of the engine.
I replaced the little curve line. This line tend to be the one get damage the most to my guess, since it's bent/curve. I also replaced the long line, along the firewall. Regarding tools for the fuel lines, I used 2 sets of normal open wrench and a set of crowfoot wrench (with 3/8" ratchet).
Good luck.
06-13-2008, 05:55 AM
#48
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Thanks for the guide RLN. I really appreciate it.
Man, this is getting infectious. After Doug's post i was planning to take some more pictures of the fuel filter etc. this evening. But after thinking about it for a few minutes I decided I couldn't wait. So I told my colleagues I was going to the toilet and ran out to the parking lot and took some pics.
Here are the pics.
First took a close up of the fuel filter and the black heat guard next to it. As you can see the line attached to the left of the fuel filter is not OEM by the looks of it. The right side has a little metal ubend on it followed by rubber from there on.
The second pic is a pic of what was behind the heat guard.
The third pic is a close-up of the front of the the engine where the T-line is.
Man, this is getting infectious. After Doug's post i was planning to take some more pictures of the fuel filter etc. this evening. But after thinking about it for a few minutes I decided I couldn't wait. So I told my colleagues I was going to the toilet and ran out to the parking lot and took some pics.
Here are the pics.
First took a close up of the fuel filter and the black heat guard next to it. As you can see the line attached to the left of the fuel filter is not OEM by the looks of it. The right side has a little metal ubend on it followed by rubber from there on.
The second pic is a pic of what was behind the heat guard.
The third pic is a close-up of the front of the the engine where the T-line is.
06-13-2008, 06:30 AM
#49
Addict
work with me now. I don't even know what time it is. I had to pee and thought I'd check in.
Why are we changing the fuel line when in the third picture above the fuel line is the cleanest looking part on the car? Seriously? Who said change it? if you smell gas, I'd be checking the hose clamp on the IN side of the filter.
Why are we changing the fuel line when in the third picture above the fuel line is the cleanest looking part on the car? Seriously? Who said change it? if you smell gas, I'd be checking the hose clamp on the IN side of the filter.
06-13-2008, 08:38 AM
#50
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Hi Doug,
Sorry guys, I just re-read all my posts on this thread and realised that I hadn't mentioned where I and the car are. We are in Norway.
So that explains the time difference. It is the middle of the afternoon here and i am at work. But luckily it is a Friday so I found some time to post. (where there is a will there is a way ... )
The reason the T-line is being replaced is that we have a mandatory car check-up every two years here for all cars. The car gets looked over by an authorised mechanic and any identified problems have to be rectified.
You can't see it so well on the photo, but if you bend the rubber part of the T-line with your finger it does show some brittleness and cracks. The other lines seem fine.
There is no smell of petrol from the engine whatsoever so replacing the line is purely preventative rather than being an imminent problem.
Sorry guys, I just re-read all my posts on this thread and realised that I hadn't mentioned where I and the car are. We are in Norway.
So that explains the time difference. It is the middle of the afternoon here and i am at work. But luckily it is a Friday so I found some time to post. (where there is a will there is a way ...
)The reason the T-line is being replaced is that we have a mandatory car check-up every two years here for all cars. The car gets looked over by an authorised mechanic and any identified problems have to be rectified.
You can't see it so well on the photo, but if you bend the rubber part of the T-line with your finger it does show some brittleness and cracks. The other lines seem fine.
There is no smell of petrol from the engine whatsoever so replacing the line is purely preventative rather than being an imminent problem.
06-13-2008, 11:15 AM
#52
Addict
Boy, don't we look like a bunch of *****? Don't give up on us. Are you ordering from Pelican here in California and paying international freight? Ouch! I would think you could drive to Germany and pick up the parts yourself...Is Norway anywhere near Denmark?
06-17-2008, 07:39 AM
#53
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Sorry for the silence. Am travelling on work at the moment, but managed to grab a minute to post this message.
Doug: It works pretty well ordering from PP in California nad getting it shipped here. its still much cheaper than ordering here, and so far I haven't been able to find a Porsche specialist here that is as well stocked, knowledgeable and efficient as PP.
Norway is a little north of Denmark, to the left of Sweden, to the right of Scotland (over the north sea) and below Finland,
Doug: It works pretty well ordering from PP in California nad getting it shipped here. its still much cheaper than ordering here, and so far I haven't been able to find a Porsche specialist here that is as well stocked, knowledgeable and efficient as PP.
Norway is a little north of Denmark, to the left of Sweden, to the right of Scotland (over the north sea) and below Finland,
06-17-2008, 11:32 AM
#54
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I went to Performance Products yesterday to pick up valve cover gaskets and window trim. While I was at the counter they were talking about a large order they were sending to Singapore, so they do ship all over.
I asked about Denmark 'cause that is where red67 is at.
I asked about Denmark 'cause that is where red67 is at.
