Help ! Have to change my fuel lines.
#1
Help ! Have to change my fuel lines.
Hi,
Have an 84 3.2ltr and I have to change the fuel lines on it as the exisiting ones don't look like they have long to live.
Thought I might as well do it now, rather than going the "exploded engine, damn I should have bought that fire extinguisher" route
I have to replace the "T" line that goes between the fuel rails at the front of the engine and then sweeps under the intakes to the back. thought I would also replace the secondary line that goes between the rails at the back while I was at it.
IEven to a newbie like me it's obvious that the air filter, the air blower and the intakes have to come off to be able to get to the lines, but this is a totally new level of complexity for me.
Would like to do the job myself, cause thats what I bought the Porsche for, (i.e. to while away hours in the garage getting to know my "four wheeled, air-cooled, mistress". )
Does anyone who has done this before have step by step checklist of how it should be done and what you should watch out for?
Would greatly appreciate any help.
Have an 84 3.2ltr and I have to change the fuel lines on it as the exisiting ones don't look like they have long to live.
Thought I might as well do it now, rather than going the "exploded engine, damn I should have bought that fire extinguisher" route
I have to replace the "T" line that goes between the fuel rails at the front of the engine and then sweeps under the intakes to the back. thought I would also replace the secondary line that goes between the rails at the back while I was at it.
IEven to a newbie like me it's obvious that the air filter, the air blower and the intakes have to come off to be able to get to the lines, but this is a totally new level of complexity for me.
Would like to do the job myself, cause thats what I bought the Porsche for, (i.e. to while away hours in the garage getting to know my "four wheeled, air-cooled, mistress". )
Does anyone who has done this before have step by step checklist of how it should be done and what you should watch out for?
Would greatly appreciate any help.
#2
Drifting
Check out this thread
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...era+fuel+lines
And this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...el+line&page=3
I just noticed that this is post # "993" for me
John
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...era+fuel+lines
And this
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...el+line&page=3
I just noticed that this is post # "993" for me
John
#3
Thanks for the quick reply Gothing. Really appreciate you taking the time to answer.
Had seen the first of the two links you sent, but it left me with the following:
1. As far as I can see it is impossible to replace the "T" line without removing anything else. So either that guy is Mr Fantastic from the Fantastic 4 or he is wrong.
2. The step by step guide provided in the first link you sent was for removing the secondary line, as far as I can see to remove the main line the intakes have to come off, so the question is what are the steps for doing that?
3. His post was great in terms of finding replacement lines, have written to BoxterGT about getting replacement fuel lines.
4. Still need info or a checklist on how to proceed with the job, and what to watch out for when doing it.
5. Given that the intakes would have to come off to do this job I assume there are some other things that might be worth doing at the same time. Would be great to know what they are.
Thanks again Gothing.
Had seen the first of the two links you sent, but it left me with the following:
1. As far as I can see it is impossible to replace the "T" line without removing anything else. So either that guy is Mr Fantastic from the Fantastic 4 or he is wrong.
2. The step by step guide provided in the first link you sent was for removing the secondary line, as far as I can see to remove the main line the intakes have to come off, so the question is what are the steps for doing that?
3. His post was great in terms of finding replacement lines, have written to BoxterGT about getting replacement fuel lines.
4. Still need info or a checklist on how to proceed with the job, and what to watch out for when doing it.
5. Given that the intakes would have to come off to do this job I assume there are some other things that might be worth doing at the same time. Would be great to know what they are.
Thanks again Gothing.
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I did mine with minimum removal. I used flexible line throughout rather that try to reuse the metal portion. The only line I didn't do is the small one circled in this diagram:
See:
carrera fuel line, (BAT and AN fittings)
Also some info on my own site:
Engine Fuel Line
Ian
See:
carrera fuel line, (BAT and AN fittings)
Also some info on my own site:
Engine Fuel Line
Ian
#5
Addict
zach13, I just did this job about 8 weeks ago. I got the parts from Pelican for 30% off the local dealer price. I did several "while I'm in there" projects so I didn't really keep track of what was fuel lines only stuff and what was "other". I did the head temp sensor, intake manifold boot, I.M. spacers, I.M. gaskets, ICV, and some new clamps. Won't say it was a piece of cake, but If I can do it.....It's really depends on the level of tools you have. 8mm allen sockets in a variety of leingths and swivel are really important. Advil and brake cleaner are going to be your friend. get a magnet light and a 2" dental mirror.
We are here to walk you thru, but for now I gotta get kids out the door.
We are here to walk you thru, but for now I gotta get kids out the door.
#6
Rennlist Member
zach: I strongly recommend that you purchase o.e. replacement lines, intake manifold gaskets/spacers, and, like douglas already mentioned, a new two-wire head temp sensor if yours is still the original. I'm sure that douglas will be back later with more info for you, but the 3.2 liter car can really use that intake manifold resealed about the time that the car's fuel lines need replacement.
#7
Thanks for all the great replies you guys. Will keep you posted on the progress, no doubt I will be running between the garage and the PC to add posts every five minutes. Will try to take plenty of photos too so that I can make this thread worthwhile reading for others.
Peter: When you say the intake minfold should be resealed do you mean by adding the gaskets\spacers that Douglas mentioned?
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?
Douglas: What do you mean by ICV, and what clamps do you mean?
Thanks again guys, really appreciate the help.
Peter: When you say the intake minfold should be resealed do you mean by adding the gaskets\spacers that Douglas mentioned?
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?
Douglas: What do you mean by ICV, and what clamps do you mean?
Thanks again guys, really appreciate the help.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Peter: When you say the intake minfold should be resealed do you mean by adding the gaskets\spacers that Douglas mentioned?
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?.
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?.
#9
Addict
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ntake+manifold
zach13, the above link is all the proof you need to know that Rennlist works. My personal life was a living hell while I was doing the fuel line and intake. My family made it thru, my 911 made it thru, and my friendship with some of the guys here was forever set in stone.
zach13, the above link is all the proof you need to know that Rennlist works. My personal life was a living hell while I was doing the fuel line and intake. My family made it thru, my 911 made it thru, and my friendship with some of the guys here was forever set in stone.
#10
Drifting
Sure, there are plenty of ways to do things, there are plenty of after market parts available, there are... but, think about this. Who's engineers designed the car, and the parts with which to build it? Porsche, the very same company who's goal is to protect occupants of its products from everything but themselves. O.E. fuel lines will actually give warning, by sweating vapors, long before they fail; how confident are you that your solution will do the same. Don't you think that if Porsche thought hoses and clamps were OK, that they would have used hoses and clamps? Trust Porsche's engineers, they know what they're doing; don't re-invent the wheel, at least where occupant safety is a concern. In the process of replacing your fuel lines you will remove the intake manifold and replace the gaskets (12) and spacers (6) - which is a good thing.
Oh, ICV is the idle control valve. It usually needs to be cleaned out once in a while. It's probably the only thing on your car that be completely replaced using only a flat head screw driver.
-matt
#11
Addict
The following cut and paste from the link:
Shipped 930-110-595-05-M260 Fuel Line (main line), 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $392.50
$392.50
Shipped 930-110-411-03-M136 Connecting Hose, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $56.00
$56.00
Shipped 930-606-915-00-M14 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, 911 (1984-89)
Brand: Bosch
1 $73.75
$73.75
Shipped 930-110-197-14-M17 Intake Manifold Gasket (each, 12 required), 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: Victor Reinz
12 $1.50
$18.00
Shipped 930-110-459-00-M260 Insulator, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
6 $8.00
$48.00
Shipped 930-110-573-01-M136 Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $10.75
$10.75
Subtotal: $599.00
Shipping: Selected Shipping: None
$0.00
Taxes: No Taxes Charged
Total price: $599.00
cut and paste from my order confirmation from Pelican. I placed this order while sitting in the parking lot of Walter's Porsche. The same order there would have been exactly $999.00 I have the quote.
How come nobody told me Pelican is not a walk in location. I called them and asked if I could will call and they said yes. Well, if you have alrady placed an order at least 24 hours in advance and it is in stock you can.....otherwise the product is in San Francisco. I did make friends with Tom at ex:305
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by zach13
Peter: When you say the intake minfold should be resealed do you mean by adding the gaskets\spacers that Douglas mentioned?
cut and paste from Pete above:
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?.
That guys $5.00 hose could land him with a $5.00 Carrera to go with it.
Shipped 930-110-595-05-M260 Fuel Line (main line), 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $392.50
$392.50
Shipped 930-110-411-03-M136 Connecting Hose, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $56.00
$56.00
Shipped 930-606-915-00-M14 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, 911 (1984-89)
Brand: Bosch
1 $73.75
$73.75
Shipped 930-110-197-14-M17 Intake Manifold Gasket (each, 12 required), 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: Victor Reinz
12 $1.50
$18.00
Shipped 930-110-459-00-M260 Insulator, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
6 $8.00
$48.00
Shipped 930-110-573-01-M136 Intake Manifold Rubber Sleeve, 911 Carrera (1984-89)
Brand: OEM
1 $10.75
$10.75
Subtotal: $599.00
Shipping: Selected Shipping: None
$0.00
Taxes: No Taxes Charged
Total price: $599.00
cut and paste from my order confirmation from Pelican. I placed this order while sitting in the parking lot of Walter's Porsche. The same order there would have been exactly $999.00 I have the quote.
How come nobody told me Pelican is not a walk in location. I called them and asked if I could will call and they said yes. Well, if you have alrady placed an order at least 24 hours in advance and it is in stock you can.....otherwise the product is in San Francisco. I did make friends with Tom at ex:305
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by zach13
Peter: When you say the intake minfold should be resealed do you mean by adding the gaskets\spacers that Douglas mentioned?
cut and paste from Pete above:
Peter: Why the o.e. lines, as far as I can see they are the same half rubber\half metal things, i found this post (here)where guys had opted for a fully flexible alternative sheathed in stainless steel mesh. Seems to me it would last longer and be easier to get in and out?.
That guys $5.00 hose could land him with a $5.00 Carrera to go with it.
#12
Rennlist Member
The only other route I have seen is people bringing in their old 'T' line to a hydraulic shop and getting something custom fabed up using high pressure fuel rated houses. Finding metric fittings can be a little hard apparently. What do you think about this one Pete? I think it actually comes out cheaper in the end.
#13
Thanks for all the great input guys I really appreciate it.
Doug: thanks for the shopping list and the link to your thread. I read through the whole thread, and though it was great it really gave a newbie like me the shakes . Specially the picture of the manifolds lying open on the engine like a cracked egg.
So the first thing I did was ordered Waynes "How to rebuild your 911 engine" from Amazon.
I will get on to ordering the parts from Pelican as well. Now all I need to figure out is how to set up my computer in the garage so that I can post as I demolish my 911.
I really hope I can manage this.
Doug approximately how much time did it take you to dismantle, add the new parts and re-assemble the engine?
Just so I know how much time I have to ask my wife for.
Crap, she is going to use this for all its worth ...
Doug: thanks for the shopping list and the link to your thread. I read through the whole thread, and though it was great it really gave a newbie like me the shakes . Specially the picture of the manifolds lying open on the engine like a cracked egg.
So the first thing I did was ordered Waynes "How to rebuild your 911 engine" from Amazon.
I will get on to ordering the parts from Pelican as well. Now all I need to figure out is how to set up my computer in the garage so that I can post as I demolish my 911.
I really hope I can manage this.
Doug approximately how much time did it take you to dismantle, add the new parts and re-assemble the engine?
Just so I know how much time I have to ask my wife for.
Crap, she is going to use this for all its worth ...
#14
Drifting
I really hope I can manage this.
-matt
#15
Addict
I think it was a half day for teardown and a full day of reassembly. It took a week for my old back to recover between. Really a fun project to do. It never got out of hand or ever my head. I did take autoshop some 25 years ago and got my son lots of tools for Christmas. It's like playing with LOGO. Alot of LEGO.