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Good battery but still no start.

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Old 06-09-2008, 11:18 PM
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Glas482
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Default Good battery but still no start.

I have an 87 that about a month ago the battery died from sitting too long without driving. Did a quick charge and all was fine. Back and forth to work for two days no problem. Car sat for about another week and I had to do the quick charge thing again but seemed fine after that. This weekend in I couldn't get it started....just a click when turning the key. Tried the charger but the needle just jumped around so I took the battery out and charged it until the charger shut off. Battery back in car and still just a click when turning the key. Really have no idea where to go from here other than towing it to the garage.

Please tell me I didn't fry some relay or something putting the charger on the battery while it was still in the car. The battery was new in 2/07 and reads a 12.8 on the meter.

Thanks
Matthew
Old 06-09-2008, 11:31 PM
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old man neri
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Just because at battery reads 12.8 does not mean it is a good battery. The only way to tell is to have it tested. A battery can still put out 12.8 volts but almost no load. I could hook up 8 AAA batteries together and have them pump out 12.8 volts.....doesn't mean it will start your car. I think you battery is just not 'holding a charge'

I think most auto parts places will test the battery for you and determine if it can deliver the amps required, the test is usually free as well.

-matt
Old 06-09-2008, 11:35 PM
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Brads911sc
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Check your ground if you had the battery removed... Agree with Matt.. Id take it somewhere (Sears is one) and have it tested...
Old 06-10-2008, 01:28 AM
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DRACO A5OG
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Autozone too. Just pull it out and take it there and test it, at least you can eliminate that step.

BTW, do you have a back up DME Relay? might as well try that too
Old 06-10-2008, 02:13 AM
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2.7RACER
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Matthew,
Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. Check the ground from the battery and also the ground strap from the body to the transaxle under the car. If in doubt remove and wire brush everything.
It is possible your starter needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
If you have alligator leads, check the power at the starter while someone else cranks the starter.
Do not get under the car while cranking. Too many chances to get hurt.
You may need to remove the starter and bench check it if the 12 volts to the starter checks ok.
Disconnect the battery before removing the starter.
The large cable at the starter is a direct connection to the battery. It will go bang if grounded.

The DME relay controls power to the fuel pump and the ECU. It has nothing to do with the starter.
It's still a great idea to have a spare DME relay for your 20 year old car.
Old 06-10-2008, 02:51 AM
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Mike Murphy
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Those 2 quick charges you did probably only charged the battery 15-20%. The right way to charge is to slow charge for 24-36 hours at less than 1-2 amps. Driving the car to charge will not do the battery good.

You might have a short in the battery which is causing it to drain, or you just might have ran the battery clean out and now have compromised it.

If you plan to drive the car infrequently, I would wire up a Battery Tender Jr. and keep the thing plugged in when not in use.
Old 06-10-2008, 04:54 PM
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glenncof
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On my 1985 at 187K miles, I had the solenoid go bad on the starter. It was 'original' starter. The solenoid was just not strong enough to engage pinion with ring gear AND make the connection for the battery/starter motor. I could here the solenoid pushing pinion to ring gear. No juice going to motor.

I measured 8.5V at the soleniod when trying to start. I thought wiring/ignition switch was bad. I checked all the grounds, ignition wires, ect. In the end the 8.5V was fine.

At first there would be a second or so of delay, then it got intermittent. Starter would fly like no tomorrow despite high miles.

You can check the battery voltage when trying to crank, first at the battery, then at the solenoid, then at motor.

I have never had a solenoid fail like this. Usually the copper slug inside solenoid (which connects battery to motor) gets pitted, higher resistance, then slower cranking, then intermittent.
Old 06-10-2008, 06:33 PM
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Erik @ Carquip
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You might want to check the ignition system, as well. While I know that my car (a 69T) is quite a bit different, I experienced the same issue. I tried and tried everything that I could think of to get it running. I eventually went to a MSD 6al system and all was good.

I am not saying that this is what you are experiencing, in fact in all probability it is not, but it follows that if you have an issue with the starter clicking and not turning the car over, it is probably going to be either an issue with the batteries, or the starter.

Just my .02 on this one. If you system is not charging correctly check the voltage regulator, too.

Erik



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