Erratic window operation...
My driver side window has just started acting up. It goes up but has a problem coming down. I can toggle the switch a bit and it will start working again so I'm assuming it's a bad switch, however before throwing parts at this I was wondering if there are any other areas I should be looking at. Perhaps the motor, a relay(s), etc? I'm under the impression that when a motor goes bad it pretty much dies but I may very well be wrong. Any ideas? Thanks very much!
OOPS! I forgot to hit the post button....
Take the switch out and see if by-passing it helps. You sould be able to jump across the switch and get the motor to work.
I remember a thread about lighted BMW switches that worked well as a replacement.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=BMW+switches
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=BMW+switches
Take the switch out and see if by-passing it helps. You sould be able to jump across the switch and get the motor to work.
I remember a thread about lighted BMW switches that worked well as a replacement.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=BMW+switches
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=BMW+switches
It was the switch. I just replaced it and the system came back to life. The shop told me to stick with the OEM switch as they have had a lot of problems with the aftermarket units failing. OEM was $21.00 (CT Automotive, Campbell California). Thanks a lot for the responses!
One of the best tools I ever bought was my $30 electrical tester. Whenever I was unsure which device in a string of 5 devices connected with 5 cables and fuses failed, the tester came to the rescue. If I saw 12V come to life with the tester, then I was pretty sure I could continue down the path until - sure enough - one of the components had failed the test.
Just something to consider if faced with this same situation again.
Just something to consider if faced with this same situation again.
Marty916,
+1 on your shop's advice to go with OEM ONLY on these switches. I recently got two from a national aftermarket/catalog source well known to all and they were JUNK!
They were about $16.00 US each at the time and now they're around $14.00 with the tag "New Lower Price!". I wonder why... ;-)
Both gave me intermittent performance during the installation test phase and withing five minutes of being installed did a fine job in blowing the fuse on the controlling circuit.
The 'rocker' portion of both switches was very 'imprecise' in its movement and would actually move from side-to-side in its surrounding mount and would sometimes stick in both the UP and DOWN positions!
They went back to them with a full report and I DID promptly get my $ back so they handled it OK I guess... Thank goodness I only torched two fuses!
The OEM units are not that expensive and will give you no worries. Glad this was your issue - simple (with quality parts!) fix.
Barry
+1 on your shop's advice to go with OEM ONLY on these switches. I recently got two from a national aftermarket/catalog source well known to all and they were JUNK!
They were about $16.00 US each at the time and now they're around $14.00 with the tag "New Lower Price!". I wonder why... ;-)
Both gave me intermittent performance during the installation test phase and withing five minutes of being installed did a fine job in blowing the fuse on the controlling circuit.
The 'rocker' portion of both switches was very 'imprecise' in its movement and would actually move from side-to-side in its surrounding mount and would sometimes stick in both the UP and DOWN positions!
They went back to them with a full report and I DID promptly get my $ back so they handled it OK I guess... Thank goodness I only torched two fuses!
The OEM units are not that expensive and will give you no worries. Glad this was your issue - simple (with quality parts!) fix.
Barry



