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Cheaper alternative for the bearing behind the collar nut on the trans input shaft?

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Old 03-20-2008, 01:13 PM
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Houpty GT
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Default Cheaper alternative for the bearing behind the collar nut on the trans input shaft?

The roller bearing that sits imediately behind the 41mm collar nut on the 915 transmission input shaft on my 1981 911SC has flaking (pitting) on the rollers and needs replacement. I looked on pelican and they were asking over $300 and performance had similar pricing. I don't have the part numbers off the bearing and outer race but I will try to get those posted on here this weekend. I will try to cross reference the part myself next week.

Has anyone found an affordable supply for this bearing?
Old 03-23-2008, 12:22 AM
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It looks like I had the wrong price. The bearing is still $155 from Vertex. Still a lot for a roller bearing. The Porsche part number is 99911003200.

The inner race is marked with "SKF 2n06 3 Y" The '2n06' should be the part for SKF but I could not find it on their website so I think there is something wrong with what I am interpeting from the part. The lower case 'n' is very suspicious but I cannot tell what else it could be. Does someone have any better info on this part? I think we can find it much cheaper if I can get the manufacturers part number. I will try and get the numbers off the outer race next week if it has any on it.
Old 03-23-2008, 09:54 AM
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We found this out with Ford that some of the bearings are OE-ONLY, and cannot be sold to anyone other than Ford, who decided to discontinue the part number on us.

With some perseverence in that case, some of the aftermarket vendors were able to convince the bearing mfg'r that they were our only hope, and they started opening up the flow of parts again. In this case, where they ARE available still OE, you might be SOL in your search, though I hope not. Good luck!
Old 03-23-2008, 01:35 PM
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Hobbsie
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One left in my vendor's local warehouse. Where are you located?

Where do I find a cruise control actuator for engine compartment for my new 83 SC?
Old 03-23-2008, 04:32 PM
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Houpty GT
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Originally Posted by Hobbsie
One left in my vendor's local warehouse. Where are you located?

Where do I find a cruise control actuator for engine compartment for my new 83 SC?
Can you confirm or correct the SKF bearing number? Who is the vendor?
Old 03-23-2008, 07:42 PM
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999 110 032 00 (SKF N206ECP)
Old 03-24-2008, 02:30 AM
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Brett San Diego
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Originally Posted by Houpty GT
The roller bearing that sits imediately behind the 41mm collar nut on the 915 transmission input shaft on my 1981 911SC has flaking (pitting) on the rollers and needs replacement. I looked on pelican and they were asking over $300 and performance had similar pricing. I don't have the part numbers off the bearing and outer race but I will try to get those posted on here this weekend. I will try to cross reference the part myself next week.

Has anyone found an affordable supply for this bearing?
Perhaps I'm being naive, but can you not simply measure the dimensions of the bearing and find the same dimension bearing from anyone else (with the appropriate ABEC rating for the application)? It could be an oddball size that no one else makes, but I would think it would be worth searching by bearing size.

Brett
Old 03-24-2008, 01:13 PM
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Houpty GT
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The outer race is N206/C3

What is the difference between the N 206 ECP and the N 206 ECM?

I was going to try Bearing Distributors as soon as I had the part numbers sorted out.

There should be some cross references and also bearings of similar dimensions but they will have to meet the criteria for the application which we may not fully know without the specifications from the engineering design. The inner diameter is 30mm, outer diameter is 62mm, and the width is 16 mm.
Old 03-25-2008, 06:06 PM
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I found some more out. The EC means that it is a optimized design so that it replaces the previous design. The bearing with the P has a fiber reinforced plastic retainer and the bearing with the M is a 2 piece machined brass retainer. The retainer is the part that hold the rollers in the bearing and the brass is a superior material but the plastic reatainer may be exceptable in this case since the speeds are not to high.
Old 03-25-2008, 07:50 PM
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Houpty was it you who had the broken head stud ? how did you make out with hat BTW
Old 03-25-2008, 11:36 PM
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Click down an few and look at --gearing solutions. Looks like they are a new sponser, maybe they stock it, or have a cross for another bearing or car manufacture. I just used a BMW transmission roll pin in the clutch pedel for the 911sc. There was one Porsche roll pin in stock in LA that my parts guy could locate.. So he went into the back in the brown paper bags and dug up the Beemer part. You might call Steve at Rennsport. He is pretty savy and may have the part or information. I have a 1983 911 tranny that I would like to open up. What are you using for repair books?
Old 03-26-2008, 12:24 PM
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Peter Zimmermann
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If I may offer an opinion here, I've been doing transmission repairs since the early '70s and have never dared to use any repair parts in one of those transmissions from any source but Porsche. Sure, on occasion bearings (o.e. of course) were/are available through the after market, and that's OK, but to try to find a substitute to save a few bucks, I don't think so. I had a customer who was heir to the Timken Bearing fortunes, and he told me to always use the bearings supplied by Porsche because of their extreme quality standards (and Timken makes some of those bearings!). I was told the same thing by one of the guys that runs the largest bearing wholesale house in L.A. - I didn't want to use anything that didn't come through the P-car system, and he couldn't match them up anyway. In addition to the quality control aspect, a shop doesn't have time to run all over town trying to save a little money - in the time it might take to locate a "cheaper substitute" for a part, the shop's people can be earning XXX dollars per hour, making the "real" cost of that cheaper part much higher than just its cost.

Jake: Factory manual. Nothing better...
Old 03-26-2008, 01:39 PM
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Peter, I got it and I will use it. Thanks
Old 03-26-2008, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
If I may offer an opinion here, I've been doing transmission repairs since the early '70s and have never dared to use any repair parts in one of those transmissions from any source but Porsche. Sure, on occasion bearings (o.e. of course) were/are available through the after market, and that's OK, but to try to find a substitute to save a few bucks, I don't think so. I had a customer who was heir to the Timken Bearing fortunes, and he told me to always use the bearings supplied by Porsche because of their extreme quality standards (and Timken makes some of those bearings!). I was told the same thing by one of the guys that runs the largest bearing wholesale house in L.A. - I didn't want to use anything that didn't come through the P-car system, and he couldn't match them up anyway. In addition to the quality control aspect, a shop doesn't have time to run all over town trying to save a little money - in the time it might take to locate a "cheaper substitute" for a part, the shop's people can be earning XXX dollars per hour, making the "real" cost of that cheaper part much higher than just its cost.

Jake: Factory manual. Nothing better...
Peter,
You have got part of it right. As for saving a few bucks, I do not think so, more like several hundred dollars for the same quality. You won't see me putting any Chinese bearings in my car. It is not being cheap, it is being frugal. I am willing to pay for quality but I am not trying to give my money away. Is it worth my time for one bearing when it comes to such a large mar up, yes. Is it even better that others can share the profits, indeed! Could a shop justify installing an equivalent bearing with a larger mark up on each of their customers, Yes, if that was not out of their area of expertise. Maybe they better play it safe. Maybe you can't go wrong with parts from Porsche but you can go broke.

I will keep with what I find.

Iceman: I finally got the last broken head stud out. 9 broken in total and they were all long except for one that was only 1/8" which was next to the chain housing and only 1/16" was sticking above the cylinder base. We were able to weld a nut to it and then turn it out.
Old 03-26-2008, 06:28 PM
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wow great job. how did you get the broken ones out. I asume the broke becase they were seized it . Did you usea torch to heat up the case before turning ? please do telaas I am in the exact same situation . want to replace exchangers )


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