Edward

I hate it when that happens. I thought I could get more out of it, but alas, she's going...

So, anyone got a good line on the best place/price to pick up the parts? I assume Sachs is the way to go here, right? It's for my SC Trackmeister. If only I could actually spend money to get back ON the track than on the car ...oh well... TIA, all!!

Edward

Chris M.

How many miles were on it? Are you just doing the disc or are you going to do the pressure plate, TO bearing, RMS, throwout fork...these projects have a tendency to balloon. Watch out for those "while you're in there" items.

Edward

Not sure how many miles on the clutch ...prev owner in question there. But of course, the standard stuff applies like a t/o bearing. But I also assume pressure plate. RMS should be good, but I guess I can have that checked.

Sachs the way to go here? Anyone have thoughts on where to get a good price?

Edward

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Edward:

As you so eloquently stated in the top line of your .sig file, "Support your local Rennlister",....

There are several Rennlist sponsors that help make this place possible and I'd kindly offer that you might think about sourcing what you need from those folks.

A Sachs Power Clutch kit will meet your requirements very nicely as those are durable & well-proven components. You would get the aluminum PP, spring-center disc, and release bearing in that collection.

Be sure to replace the oil pressure sending unit and thermostat O-ring to prevent the new clutch from getting inadvertently oiled.

Edward

Ahhh yes, thank you for those words of wisdom (and conviction ), Steve! You are, of course, correct!


Thanks for the tip on the oil pressure sending unit; will do. Question though: what T-stat?? Where is this bad boy?

Edward

Jay H

I had the clutch replaced on my '84 last year and had my mechanic replace the clutch cable and helper spring as well. The whole setup was new and it feels fantastic once all of those parts are fresh.

rusnak

I noticed some noise when I depress my clutch pedal this morning. I think my clutch is going to go out, though there is no slip yet.

I noticed someone was selling the Sachs Power Clutch kit. I assume that is still the way to go, and I'll probably replace the omega spring and maybe the TO arm. I haven't taken a look. Anyone else have any tips, leads, pointers and warnings? Thanks. I recall some folks say you can't resurface the 3.2 flywheel? I guess I'm in for a new flywheel too. And then there is that packet of uber special grease you need.....

Makmov

Sachs is what we always used to replace exploding rubber hubs... also known as a Porsche disc.

IIRC there is no way to mount a Porsche flywheel in a typical resurfacer machine and get a cut all the way across the surface.

Ed Hughes

The Sachs Power setup is the way to go. I'd definitely check the arm closely. I've heard of people turning their fwheels, but I don't think that (or brake rotor turning) is kosher on a car like a 911.

rusnak

Wonder if I can find a good used fw. Probably also not worth it. I need to inspect the parts. I have a very heavy clutch on there now, definitely not rubber centered.

jakeflyer

why dont you see if you can borrow a bad crank and set up a dial gauge with some v blocks to look at the runout? If you are within specs, couldnt you break the glaze by scuffing?

rusnak

I've got a new clutch and flywheel on order, and will need to start thinking about pulling the motor some weekend soon.

So, what else makes sense to put on the menu? I have a new parking brake cable, cht sensor, engine mounts, and will re-repack the cvs for example. I will get a new engine soundpad, gearbox seal, and possibly a to fork - or should I just change it? Brakes will get a good look, and swaybar bushings will also be replaced.

Ed Hughes

Clutch cable, pilot bearing, check the main seal too....

Check your swing arm pivots.....what are the chances they may need some refreshing?

rusnak

Good point. It's a good time to pull those w the engine out. I guess checking them in situ would be w a lever or prybar, as you would check balljoints?

Ed Hughes

If original, I'd maybe pull the engine oil cooler, replace the three seals at a minimum. But, I'd take it to an aircraft engine cooler shop and have it cleaned and tested.