Need a clutch ...dang it!!
11-02-2010, 11:18 AM
#31
Race Car
OH Snap. I did'nt notice the date. Carry on Rusnak. Does your drain plug have a magnet on the other side? Some do, but that may be a concern when drilling.
11-02-2010, 05:58 PM
#32
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I didn't even think about that! Yes, I bought a replacement drain plug ten years ago when I first bought the car. It has a magnet on the other side.
11-02-2010, 07:27 PM
#36
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The gearbox case is threaded though. You mean weld a threaded bung on to the case?
The plug hex sides are long gone. They were cracked and split when I got her, and my removal effort deep sixed them. All that is left is the metal plug in the shape of a metal dot inside the threaded case. Mig welding will throw metal outward and likely damage the threads in the case. And the dang plug is harder than hell. I tried drilling it with my titanium coated bits, and no go.
The plug hex sides are long gone. They were cracked and split when I got her, and my removal effort deep sixed them. All that is left is the metal plug in the shape of a metal dot inside the threaded case. Mig welding will throw metal outward and likely damage the threads in the case. And the dang plug is harder than hell. I tried drilling it with my titanium coated bits, and no go.
11-02-2010, 08:56 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I'd focus on a good aluminum welder. Could be race shop, could be machine shop if they have welding capability. If it is really buggered up, it seems the easy out route would have some unknown risk and you take the chance of hogging out the center and just spinning. if you can get a good piece of hex stock or similar welded on, it would provide the mechanical advantage needed. That is my thought process, but is based on no experience doing this.
11-02-2010, 09:25 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
You're right, I don't know why I transposed alum into the plug's material. I was thinking tig, and an alum case, so it spilled over. That and trying to work in Hawaii....
A machinist going to work to try and remove is probably a good idea, but I still think a weldment is a leading option.
A machinist going to work to try and remove is probably a good idea, but I still think a weldment is a leading option.
11-03-2010, 07:23 PM
#42
Race Car
I have used a drill bit that cuts a slug and has minimal shavings. They should be used in a drill press and are devilish on any metal. I used one of these to cut a oil return hole in an oil pan (supercharger on a LS1). It is intended to retain shavings and is a wonderful tool. I was able to use it in a handheld drill, but, I would want control over it that a drill press would give you. If you've never seen one of these work, it's amazing. Look here:
http://www.drillbitsworld.com/Annula...rs-Cobalt.html
http://www.drillbitsworld.com/Annula...rs-Cobalt.html
11-08-2010, 09:06 PM
#43
I haddah Google dat
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It takes 3-4 days at the oil cooler place, plus transit. So a week for the oil cooler.
I'm sort of "meh" about this idea. Any thoughts? Thought I'd drain the oil into a glass jar and see how much of it is sludgey.
Link: http://www.oilcoolers.com/sending_your_cooler2us.asp
I'm sort of "meh" about this idea. Any thoughts? Thought I'd drain the oil into a glass jar and see how much of it is sludgey.
Link: http://www.oilcoolers.com/sending_your_cooler2us.asp
11-08-2010, 09:57 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Have you checked with the mechanics at an airport near you? I used an outfit in DFW area called American Cooler. They found two pinholes in mine that I didn't think were there. You'd then be good for another 20 years.