whalebird

It's a great idea to replace the flywheel with a known good unit. I have, however, just cleaned up the original (if it looks good) and reused without any issue. I use a die grinder with a "rol-loc" disc to clean up any surface glazing. Maybe a good time for a "lightweight" flywheel (some may have opinions on this). A stock flywheel is fine for a street car IMHO.

whalebird

maybe replace your valve guides

TRINITONY

he's not talking about his 993 now..:-)

whalebird

Bwahahahaha. A 993...sheeez, those things stay in the shop.

theiceman

oh gawd .... here we go .....

rusnak

I believe I have those three viton seals somewhere as well. Out she goes then.

I wondered about this because of JF's question. Thank you for confirming. I think I'll save the stock one and clean it up as a spare.

whalebird

I would second Sir Ed's suggestion not to evan consider "cutting" a flywheel or brake rotors - on any car.
Porsche factory always said it was OK to cut rotors ONCE. I'm not a believer in such at all. I've done it at customers request, but the car was always back soon for new rotors.
Benz addimatly said NO rotor turning ever-they are a wear item just like brake pads. Porsche brakes are a bit different, but the same logic applies.
I have a tube of grease with a Porsche factory part# on it...clutch pivot grease. It's worn but I will get the part# if anyone wants to order some. It was still available at last check. It is exactly like bicycle(campagnolo) grease - soft and creamy in consistancy.
good luck rusnak and Edward. Let us know what you find as your project unfolds.

rusnak

I think the kit should have some of the grease. Redline Teknik also sells it. I understand it is for the pivot fork tines, but I think I want to change the pivot shaft bushings while I'm in there, lube the pivot shaft and also the guide tube with the stuff.

I think the noise I'm hearing might be the throwout bearing going out. It's not very loud at all, and I was trying to listen with my head against the ground while sitting in the car with the motor running.

Anyhow, I've got a new flywheel on order, flywheel seal, 9 bolts, clutch cable, motor mounts. I think I'll add a pilot bearing, throwout fork, maybe an omega spring but probably not, and an engine sound pad while I'm at it. I'm also going to change the brake hoses and I need to crawl under there to look at the control arm bushings. I'm stuck at work still at the computer at the moment.

whalebird

Do the fork bearings for sure. Nows a good time to get that trans drain plug out rusnak

rusnak

I don't have to split the gearbox case to do that? I was afraid of getting shavings in the case, or breaking off an easy out and then having a permanent hole in the drain plug.

Ed Hughes

Whale's got a good memory! It will at least be a good time to devote some attention to that. I'd say at worst case, you're looking at welding on an implement to use to turn the plug out. No time like when it's out?

PS: Can you provide us a budget, so we can keep making recommendations?

rusnak

I think I'll be spending a few $K on this project, then new tires and a windshield afterwards. I got smacked by a rock last month.

whalebird

Yea rusnak, give us a blank check. We extrude honed Ed's wallet, now we can do the same for you.

I would certainly look at that drain plug on the bench. A little study may give way to a resolution. The weld-method may be the answer.

whalebird

sorry edward for jacking your thread. Your project is on the bench here too. A good clutch discussion (and related issues)is underway. As this unfolds, maybe pedal cluster bushings and proper adjustment (the feeler gauge) can be discussed. Clutch replacement is easy and satisfying when done correctly.

rusnak

I revived Edward's thread because these things are rarely unique, and wanted to piggyback on a thread that seemed similar to my issue. One question I have is whether I can just keep driving the car as I am ordering parts, or will there be damage to any non-wear items. I think the to bearing is going out, but am I risking catastrophic damage to either the engine or tranny?

The drain plug is essentially just a dot of metal now. The well sides are sheared off, so welding might be out. I think it's Pete's recommendation to use the best, most expensive easyout I can find. If that fails, it's time to rebuild the tranny cause the case is coming apart.