Chain Tensioner
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
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Chain Tensioner
Hello Everyone,
As I get closer to picking up my '84 Carrera, I'm reading more about it and having more questions which I need to ask the experts for answers.
I know in '84 the chain tensioner was updated, so does that mean it doesn't need to be changed/serviced?
If so, how often?
How often if need be, does the chain need to be replaced?
The car currently has 94K mikes.
And is the Turbo Tie Rods a must upgrade?
What about the bump steer?
Also, any sites that have a good front strut bar?
I've seen Elephant racing, and WEVO's bars, but just wanting to know if there are other triangular bars.
One last question, does anyone know where or if there is a Rear shock mount brace?
Thank you
Tate
As I get closer to picking up my '84 Carrera, I'm reading more about it and having more questions which I need to ask the experts for answers.
I know in '84 the chain tensioner was updated, so does that mean it doesn't need to be changed/serviced?
If so, how often?
How often if need be, does the chain need to be replaced?
The car currently has 94K mikes.
And is the Turbo Tie Rods a must upgrade?
What about the bump steer?
Also, any sites that have a good front strut bar?
I've seen Elephant racing, and WEVO's bars, but just wanting to know if there are other triangular bars.
One last question, does anyone know where or if there is a Rear shock mount brace?
Thank you
Tate
Pro
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 562
Likes: 1
From: Newcastle, WA
Hi Tate,
I am not an expert, but here is what I know... You don't need to service the chain tensioner, and after Porsche fitted it with its own oil line, they never break. I wouldn't change the chains unless you plan on changing the sprockets too. Then you have to re-time the cams. 94k is pretty low miles.
I don't think the turbo tie rods are a must upgrade. The only reason to swap them out is if the rubber universal joint on yours are bad. If they are, you would feel a stick then give feeling when you turn the steering wheel back and forth, if that makes sense. I admit I was like you and very excited to do everything when I got my 81SC last year and I did my tie rods. I didn't do the bump steer and I don't currently have bump steer problems when I drive. There isn't a rear shock mount brace, but some guys weld one on vertically to be like the turbo cars. The rear shocks are in theory very easy to replace, but the engine is in the way of the right rear top shock mount so it is very difficult to do. If you plan on dropping your engine for any reason, that would be the time to swap out your shocks.
I am not an expert, but here is what I know... You don't need to service the chain tensioner, and after Porsche fitted it with its own oil line, they never break. I wouldn't change the chains unless you plan on changing the sprockets too. Then you have to re-time the cams. 94k is pretty low miles.
I don't think the turbo tie rods are a must upgrade. The only reason to swap them out is if the rubber universal joint on yours are bad. If they are, you would feel a stick then give feeling when you turn the steering wheel back and forth, if that makes sense. I admit I was like you and very excited to do everything when I got my 81SC last year and I did my tie rods. I didn't do the bump steer and I don't currently have bump steer problems when I drive. There isn't a rear shock mount brace, but some guys weld one on vertically to be like the turbo cars. The rear shocks are in theory very easy to replace, but the engine is in the way of the right rear top shock mount so it is very difficult to do. If you plan on dropping your engine for any reason, that would be the time to swap out your shocks.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,213
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From: Chicago, IL
+1 on both the chain tensioners and turbo tie rods. You will notice a different on the tie rods, but it is not necessary, since many 3.2 owners never had it done.
The big issue for the 3.2 is the valve guides, which sometimes needs to be replaced - requiring a top-end rebuild.
The big issue for the 3.2 is the valve guides, which sometimes needs to be replaced - requiring a top-end rebuild.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
+1 on both the chain tensioners and turbo tie rods. You will notice a different on the tie rods, but it is not necessary, since many 3.2 owners never had it done.
The big issue for the 3.2 is the valve guides, which sometimes needs to be replaced - requiring a top-end rebuild.
The big issue for the 3.2 is the valve guides, which sometimes needs to be replaced - requiring a top-end rebuild.
Need to look into this one. For future reference, how difficult is a top-end rebuild? I don't think I would need to do this soon, but I guess I can never be too sure huh?
Thanks Million guys for your input, I really appreciate it!
Aloha
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,213
Likes: 1,907
From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by Tate
Valve guides? Top end rebuild?
Need to look into this one. For future reference, how difficult is a top-end rebuild? I don't think I would need to do this soon, but I guess I can never be too sure huh?
Thanks Million guys for your input, I really appreciate it!
Aloha
Need to look into this one. For future reference, how difficult is a top-end rebuild? I don't think I would need to do this soon, but I guess I can never be too sure huh?
Thanks Million guys for your input, I really appreciate it!
Aloha
Yes, the valve guides on these 3.2s (and some 964s and some 993s) can wear out and need replacement. This problem is obviously not widespread (or even common), but it can happen. The top end rebuild is not too difficult, per se, but the engine needs to come out and the heads all need to be worked over with valve jobs, etc. A top-end rebuild is going to run $6,000-$8,000+.
Some cars have 250,000 miles with no guide issues, while some guides are getting replaced around 70,000 or 80,000 miles. To be sure, get a car that had this done, or get a PPI and specifically have the PPI-mechanic pull the valve covers and check the guides. Another way to check is for oil consumption, but I would check both to be sure.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
Before you buy your first Porsche, I would spend a little more time on this board or buy Peter Zimmerman's book. It can save you $10,000 if you end up buying the wrong Porsche. On the other hand, if you become knowledgeable, you will likely have no major issues and your car will be solid.
A top-end rebuild is going to run $6,000-$8,000+.
A top-end rebuild is going to run $6,000-$8,000+.
However, I have the Used 911 Story on order along with, How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines, 911 Carrera Service Manual, Building the Ultimate 911 for HP Street or Road Racing, and 101 Projects for your Porsche 911.
And I'm also trying to frequent this forum as much as possible since I know this is where the oil meets the bearings...
On the rebuild figures you mentioned above, is that a DIY cost or a shop cost?
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by Tate
Very good advice to study before I buy, but I couldn't pass up this Carrera as it was a clean specimen.
However, I have the Used 911 Story on order along with, How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines, 911 Carrera Service Manual, Building the Ultimate 911 for HP Street or Road Racing, and 101 Projects for your Porsche 911.
And I'm also trying to frequent this forum as much as possible since I know this is where the oil meets the bearings...
On the rebuild figures you mentioned above, is that a DIY cost or a shop cost?
However, I have the Used 911 Story on order along with, How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines, 911 Carrera Service Manual, Building the Ultimate 911 for HP Street or Road Racing, and 101 Projects for your Porsche 911.
And I'm also trying to frequent this forum as much as possible since I know this is where the oil meets the bearings...
On the rebuild figures you mentioned above, is that a DIY cost or a shop cost?
The cost I posted was a shop cost, not DIY. DIY would be much cheaper. Porsche mechanics usually charge $75-$150/hr in Chicago, by the way, so most of the cost is labor (time). I did quite a few things on my own car myself that would have cost me thousands instead of hundreds.
Did you say that you have garage?
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Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by old man neri
Did you get a PPI done before you bought it?
However, I did do a test drive and all seemed good and did not notice any oil leaks. I'll have a PPI (post purchase) done once I get the car, even if it is after the fact, at least I'll know if there is anything that needs fixing. If there is, then I'll be back here with more questions and will need to look at it as a learning experience, as that will be about the only positive thing I'll be able to do at that point.
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978
Tate, you seem to be in the know. Your car is probably fine, I certainly wouldn't worry about it. See how much oil your car burns in the next 1,000 miles to start with.
The cost I posted was a shop cost, not DIY. DIY would be much cheaper. Porsche mechanics usually charge $75-$150/hr in Chicago, by the way, so most of the cost is labor (time). I did quite a few things on my own car myself that would have cost me thousands instead of hundreds.
Did you say that you have garage?
The cost I posted was a shop cost, not DIY. DIY would be much cheaper. Porsche mechanics usually charge $75-$150/hr in Chicago, by the way, so most of the cost is labor (time). I did quite a few things on my own car myself that would have cost me thousands instead of hundreds.
Did you say that you have garage?
I know a little about cars as I have done some work on BMWs, but the Porsche is a different kind of car...in a good way!!
Thanks for the advice on watching the oil consuption I will monitor it as you mentioned.
As for a garage, not sure if I did, but if I did mention anything about a garage, it's just a 2 car garage and not a shop type of a garage.
Glad to see the figures are shop figures and not DIY figures! I know parts can/are expensive so I wasn't sure.
Thanks again for you help!
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,213
Likes: 1,907
From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by Tate
Hi murphyslaw -
I know a little about cars as I have done some work on BMWs, but the Porsche is a different kind of car...in a good way!!
Thanks for the advice on watching the oil consuption I will monitor it as you mentioned.
As for a garage, not sure if I did, but if I did mention anything about a garage, it's just a 2 car garage and not a shop type of a garage.
Glad to see the figures are shop figures and not DIY figures! I know parts can/are expensive so I wasn't sure.
Thanks again for you help!
I know a little about cars as I have done some work on BMWs, but the Porsche is a different kind of car...in a good way!!
Thanks for the advice on watching the oil consuption I will monitor it as you mentioned.
As for a garage, not sure if I did, but if I did mention anything about a garage, it's just a 2 car garage and not a shop type of a garage.
Glad to see the figures are shop figures and not DIY figures! I know parts can/are expensive so I wasn't sure.
Thanks again for you help!
Things like door panels, dashes and all-original items like mufflers are pretty expensive.
I think you will find that these 3.2s are surprisingly easy to work on. The maintenance items are right there for you (oil filter, fuel filter, air filter), but even the blowers, fuses, switches, relays and those types of things are pretty easy to get to and change out. I know of some people who are dropping their own engines for the first time and not really having a hard time doing so.
The hardest thing to do is actually engine rebuilds and valve adjustments. The valve adjustments are technically easy to perform, but there is a "feel" that can take up to 10 tries to get, and if you don't attain that "feel," then your valves will be noisy!
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 90
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Absolutely buy Pete Z's book and read it cover to cover, it is a very comprehensive and candid look at the strengths and weaknesses of all the different 911s. The Carrera 3.2 is one of the best, it is modern enough to be comfortable as a daily driver but still has some of the raw feel of classic 911s.
As for the pressure-fed chain tensioners, they seem to be mostly bulletproof whether on an original 3.2 Carrera or updated on an older engine. I have only once replaced chain tensioners on an '84 because they were getting noisy. This was unusual but we didn't want to chance it and remember it was an original '84 so the tensioners were as old as they possibly could be. I think the car only had 60k miles on it though . . . . but like I said unusual case, I'd love to hear if Pete Z or Steve W have ever done chain tensioners on an factory 3.2.
Valve guides are of course another potential problem, but it seems that if the car in question was allowed to warm up fully on most drives and used regularly they can go a long time. I just did a major service on an '84 w/ 231k miles on it, engine has never been apart, not even top end. It ran like crap when it came in, but that was mostly due to vacuum leaks and CO adjustment being off. Fixed vacuum leaks, cleaned out the airflow meter and throttle body and set CO and of course did normal major service stuff (plugs, valve adjust, all filters, needed cap and rotor), and it ran great when it left.
Just make sure you monitor the oil consumption of any potential car you get and get a good independent shop to do a thorough PPI and you'll be in good shape!
---Chris A.
As for the pressure-fed chain tensioners, they seem to be mostly bulletproof whether on an original 3.2 Carrera or updated on an older engine. I have only once replaced chain tensioners on an '84 because they were getting noisy. This was unusual but we didn't want to chance it and remember it was an original '84 so the tensioners were as old as they possibly could be. I think the car only had 60k miles on it though . . . . but like I said unusual case, I'd love to hear if Pete Z or Steve W have ever done chain tensioners on an factory 3.2.
Valve guides are of course another potential problem, but it seems that if the car in question was allowed to warm up fully on most drives and used regularly they can go a long time. I just did a major service on an '84 w/ 231k miles on it, engine has never been apart, not even top end. It ran like crap when it came in, but that was mostly due to vacuum leaks and CO adjustment being off. Fixed vacuum leaks, cleaned out the airflow meter and throttle body and set CO and of course did normal major service stuff (plugs, valve adjust, all filters, needed cap and rotor), and it ran great when it left.
Just make sure you monitor the oil consumption of any potential car you get and get a good independent shop to do a thorough PPI and you'll be in good shape!
---Chris A.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,213
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From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by Droops83
...I have only once replaced chain tensioners on an '84 because they were getting noisy. This was unusual but we didn't want to chance it and remember it was an original '84 so the tensioners were as old as they possibly could be. I think the car only had 60k miles on it though . . . . but like I said unusual case, I'd love to hear if Pete Z or Steve W have ever done chain tensioners on an factory 3.2...
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Aug 2007
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I just got Peter Zimmerman's book yesterday, and will be reading through out this week as time permits.
I'll be bring my car over on the 28th and will have a PPI done, then I'll post up what the findings are if any...hopefully none!
Thank you for sharing your experiences with your 3.2s.
I'll be bring my car over on the 28th and will have a PPI done, then I'll post up what the findings are if any...hopefully none!
Thank you for sharing your experiences with your 3.2s.