Changed the DME relay and checked the connections etc.. All look fine. But the car still refuses to start. She'll try to turn but no ignition.

I can't test the starter or solenoid as I can't raise the car. I can still hear the solenoid clicking.

What's next? Any more ideas?

Help!

Thanks.

 

battery
spark
fuel

more info = more help

 

Thank Jerry, The battery has tested ok and the sparks were recently changed at the last service. As for fuel - it has half a tank of gas (if that's what you mean?).

 

if it cranks over but doesn't start, and you have checked that the plugs are firing, and you know there's fuel pressure in the rail, and it still doesn't crank, I'd check the reference sensors
this is what I'd do
verify 12.4+ at the battery
verify a plug is actually firing while you crank it over.
(if not check flywheel sensor since you just replaced dme relay, also check coil)
if you have spark check fuel, run the pump with the car just sitting there from the harness at the dme relay or a jumper at the fuse box. I use a key and touch the, I think 15 and 16 fuses. This is the only way you'll hear the fuel pump run. It only runs while the flywheel is turning. If it sounds good then you know you have pressure at the rails.
check the actual fuse for the pump in the trunk also, for that matter all the fuses.
if you don't have a spark, I'd look at the two reference sensors. if the dme doesnt get a signal then it won't start. you could swap the bottom two connectors under the cht connector at the bracket to the rear next to cyl number three and see if it starts, if it does then you need a new seonsor.

It doesn't start hot or cold?

 

When this happened to me it also turned out not to be the dme relay. I needed to change the fuse for the fuel pump and that fixed the problem. I then went and changed all my fuses.

Jerry Baer
87 coupe

 

Wait a second.
There is a trick to checking the fuel pump by bypassing (shorting) two of the connections that attach to the DME relay. doing this is a 'hot wire' for the pump and it will allow you to hear it run, which typically cannot be heard over the sound of the starter.
I forget the pins to connect, but I recently did this to confirm pump operation.
Another way to check is to remove the big cap on the end of the fuel rail and see if gas squirts out while you turn it over. This can get really messy though, so i prefer the jumper method.
Anyway, my car turned out to be EMPTY. The guage read over 1/4 tank, but the bottom was dry like a desert rock.
I confirmed this by removing the sender from the tank and peeking inside. It ended up being a 5 minute "fix" that took over 3 weeks and $40 to diagnose.

I hope yours is this simple.
+++

 

This happened to me a couple of months ago.

It turned out to be the DME itself. Replaced the DME and all was perfect again.

 

Uhhhm, ouch?? How much did that DME cost you?

 

I dropped off my car at Otto's in Venice who replaced it using a rebuilt one (via Loren).
Several hundred bucks later, I'm back on the road.

PM if you need details.

 

Definitely not cold - not sure about hot but it used to have problems hot starting as well... seems to have grown from the odd hot start problem to full blown - no start.

 

Actually, all you need to do is to turn on the ignition and lift the sensor plate, you should clearly hear the fuel flow. If all is silent, the problem lies in the fuel pump or pump relay. Ask me how I know.

 

don't confuse the man, if he has a dme relay he has no CIS sensor plate

 

Doh!

 

Take it easy on yourself and try a couple of shots of starter fluid in the airbox after you take the filter out and see if it fires.....work from there.

 

Ok, tried that and no go still. I don't have any means to safely raise the car to check the solenoid and starter. I think I'm going to have to tow her to a garage....