Seattle Engine Drop Oct 21
10-11-2006, 12:46 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Seattle Engine Drop Oct 21
Hello,
I wanted to see if anyone near Seattle with experience in dropping an engine and transmission would like to show me how it is done on October 21, Saturday morning. My 16 yo nephew is coming to town and I thought it would be a good day to try this. I have an 81SC that I am restoring and its ready for action.
I will supply the BBQ afterwards!
Thanks,
I wanted to see if anyone near Seattle with experience in dropping an engine and transmission would like to show me how it is done on October 21, Saturday morning. My 16 yo nephew is coming to town and I thought it would be a good day to try this. I have an 81SC that I am restoring and its ready for action.
I will supply the BBQ afterwards!
Thanks,
10-11-2006, 10:21 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Ice,
you're gonna miss all the fun. Last night I was reading up on engine drops, and I was thinking "oh man, this is too dangerous. Maybe I should pass on this project." But then today I spoke with a friend Darryl who told me it is no big deal. Well, it will be a big deal to me, but if I can get some hands on help, I will go for it.
you're gonna miss all the fun. Last night I was reading up on engine drops, and I was thinking "oh man, this is too dangerous. Maybe I should pass on this project." But then today I spoke with a friend Darryl who told me it is no big deal. Well, it will be a big deal to me, but if I can get some hands on help, I will go for it.
10-12-2006, 03:43 PM
#5
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
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What time Saturday? I would most likely be able to come over as would Justdave from this forum. I have never done this either and Justdave is a former BMW mechanic so he has not either, but we can provide help and support!
10-12-2006, 06:45 PM
#6
Team Owner
JAmes my big question has always been what do you do when you get it out ? Are you going to build some kind of dolly you put on top of your jack so that when the engine comes down it is sitting on a dolly you can roll around? This is the part that I am stumped on, and if you decide to put it on an engine stand, how do you get it back up ?
Too bad I am not closer I could have put my air compressor in the back of the van with some tools .. could certainly help to make the Job easier...
You guys could write a relly great engine removal article for the SC.
I guess I'll miss it ..
Too bad I am not closer I could have put my air compressor in the back of the van with some tools .. could certainly help to make the Job easier...
You guys could write a relly great engine removal article for the SC.
I guess I'll miss it ..
10-12-2006, 07:10 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I'd come over an help but Saturday's are my kiddie days, Sundays I'm free though. I'd really like to toss in and help and see how this all goes. I've pulled a lot of engines in my time but never a PCar's. If I ended up missing out.. here's to an easy R&R! 
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10-12-2006, 10:05 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Jeremy,
I was thinking 10am but my nephew and I will certainly start around 8am. It should be fun. Yes, please invite Justdave too.
Foto,
Please come over on Sunday. I can give you my cell phone later to let you know how we did on Saturday.
Ice,
Well, I am no expert, but have been thinking about this and reading about this since February. Here is my rough protocol, but I will follow the bentley to the letter. Buy a cheap furniture dolly from Harbor Freight. My plan is to disconnect everything that is supposed to be disconnected. Leave the engine and tranny mounts on. Block off tires. Raise the car as high as I can and jack stand the rear. Set up emergency jack stands where I can. Put a Craftsman motorcycle jack under the engine. Practice calling for help. Practice again. Lower engine/tranny. Hopefully it will clear the bumper. Slide engine/tranny out. Lift and put onto dolly. Support tranny and then separate tranny from engine. Attach the engine ring adapter. Lift the engine off the furniture stand and put it into engine stand from Harbor Freight.
Steve Weiner told me not too try the tranny, but I am too curious and they say you learn alot by doing this, so I will eventually try to crack open the tranny and examine first gear. All other gears are smooth shifting, so I will try not to overwork the problem (first gear grinding; not the bushings).
I am thinking it will take several months to do the engine what I plan to do. No rebuild. My post purchase inspection demonstrated my "classic" oil leaks from the breather gasket and oil switch. Examine the clutch. Backdate heat. Complete tune up. Valve adjustments. New spark plug wires. Probably will spring for the chain tensioner upgrade. Flip over and remove exhaust. New SSIs and Monty muffler. New Swepco 201 and Valvoline VR-1 and two ounces of EOS per Steve.
Then I will take the car to John Walker and see if he can readjust the CO. I bought the exhaust from Steve, and he told me I can't put the O2 sensor back on my thin flange SSI's. Thin ones are for the 2.0-3.0 engines. I quote, "SSI's come in two flavors; thin flange versions for 2.0-3.0 cars and do not have the hole for an oxysensor; thick-flange versions for the 3.2 (only) and those carry the hole for the necessary oxysensor.
The later SC's use a lambda sensor for auxiliary mixture correction and most folks disconnect that and run these cars open loop for better acceleration & drivability. You don't need it; all you need to do is reset the CO after everything is installed as would be SOP in any case."
Everything except the exhaust has been reasonable in price. I am not afraid to fail, but I am a little afraid about safety and my nephew's safety especially. But I think it will be good.
I was thinking 10am but my nephew and I will certainly start around 8am. It should be fun. Yes, please invite Justdave too.
Foto,
Please come over on Sunday. I can give you my cell phone later to let you know how we did on Saturday.
Ice,
Well, I am no expert, but have been thinking about this and reading about this since February. Here is my rough protocol, but I will follow the bentley to the letter. Buy a cheap furniture dolly from Harbor Freight. My plan is to disconnect everything that is supposed to be disconnected. Leave the engine and tranny mounts on. Block off tires. Raise the car as high as I can and jack stand the rear. Set up emergency jack stands where I can. Put a Craftsman motorcycle jack under the engine. Practice calling for help. Practice again. Lower engine/tranny. Hopefully it will clear the bumper. Slide engine/tranny out. Lift and put onto dolly. Support tranny and then separate tranny from engine. Attach the engine ring adapter. Lift the engine off the furniture stand and put it into engine stand from Harbor Freight.
Steve Weiner told me not too try the tranny, but I am too curious and they say you learn alot by doing this, so I will eventually try to crack open the tranny and examine first gear. All other gears are smooth shifting, so I will try not to overwork the problem (first gear grinding; not the bushings).
I am thinking it will take several months to do the engine what I plan to do. No rebuild. My post purchase inspection demonstrated my "classic" oil leaks from the breather gasket and oil switch. Examine the clutch. Backdate heat. Complete tune up. Valve adjustments. New spark plug wires. Probably will spring for the chain tensioner upgrade. Flip over and remove exhaust. New SSIs and Monty muffler. New Swepco 201 and Valvoline VR-1 and two ounces of EOS per Steve.
Then I will take the car to John Walker and see if he can readjust the CO. I bought the exhaust from Steve, and he told me I can't put the O2 sensor back on my thin flange SSI's. Thin ones are for the 2.0-3.0 engines. I quote, "SSI's come in two flavors; thin flange versions for 2.0-3.0 cars and do not have the hole for an oxysensor; thick-flange versions for the 3.2 (only) and those carry the hole for the necessary oxysensor.
The later SC's use a lambda sensor for auxiliary mixture correction and most folks disconnect that and run these cars open loop for better acceleration & drivability. You don't need it; all you need to do is reset the CO after everything is installed as would be SOP in any case."
Everything except the exhaust has been reasonable in price. I am not afraid to fail, but I am a little afraid about safety and my nephew's safety especially. But I think it will be good.
10-12-2006, 11:45 PM
#10
Team Owner
Funny you should mention that ... Noon was a beautiful day .. looked out after dinner .. 6" of snow WTF ??????. I have been doing research also but I did not have an engine stand or any friends to help :-)
A couple of tips I have heard.
It is apparently really easy to remove the rear bumper and shocks as a unit ( a couple of bolts and the wires for the license plate light ) , will give tonnes of extra clearance for sliding engine out . Also remove the transmision fluid while in the car, it is a lot less messy.
Other than that I will wait for your tips and tricks.... like " how to not crush a nephew " :-). That engine will be friken heavy... should be fun lifting it ...
A couple of tips I have heard.
It is apparently really easy to remove the rear bumper and shocks as a unit ( a couple of bolts and the wires for the license plate light ) , will give tonnes of extra clearance for sliding engine out . Also remove the transmision fluid while in the car, it is a lot less messy.
Other than that I will wait for your tips and tricks.... like " how to not crush a nephew " :-). That engine will be friken heavy... should be fun lifting it ...
10-12-2006, 11:49 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Ice - "Are you going to build some kind of dolly you put on top of your jack so that when the engine comes down it is sitting on a dolly"
That's exactly what you do. I took two 1/2" pcs of ply approx 18x18" threw on 4 casters from Home Depot and just put it on top of the 2 ton floor jack. The key here is to have as big a 'foot print' from the jack for stability and you need to make sure you find the balance pt of the engine/trans assy which is basically where the crossover pipe is. Have one person under the car to hold the trans mount for stability and make sure everything clears and one person holding the intake runner or engine crossbar while lowering the jack. Once it's down you'll have to jack the body WAY up to get it out from under the car. The 3.2 high spot is the blower fan I just roll it to the left and line up the blower fan through the muffler cut out. Saves you from having to jack that little bit higher because it's up there!!.
I had my engine/trans out clutch replaced and car running again in a weekend don't drag it out, just be methodical and try not to think too much it's really straight forward.
Good luck
Peter
That's exactly what you do. I took two 1/2" pcs of ply approx 18x18" threw on 4 casters from Home Depot and just put it on top of the 2 ton floor jack. The key here is to have as big a 'foot print' from the jack for stability and you need to make sure you find the balance pt of the engine/trans assy which is basically where the crossover pipe is. Have one person under the car to hold the trans mount for stability and make sure everything clears and one person holding the intake runner or engine crossbar while lowering the jack. Once it's down you'll have to jack the body WAY up to get it out from under the car. The 3.2 high spot is the blower fan I just roll it to the left and line up the blower fan through the muffler cut out. Saves you from having to jack that little bit higher because it's up there!!.
I had my engine/trans out clutch replaced and car running again in a weekend don't drag it out, just be methodical and try not to think too much it's really straight forward.
Good luck
Peter
10-13-2006, 03:31 AM
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks. Sounds a little scary. I might have to remove the bumper. I will post pics later of how my car came out from the body shop after my uninsured motorist accident. I came out great!
10-13-2006, 10:32 AM
#13
Team Owner
But Zip
Funny that was exactly my plan ... we had an old dolly we were chucking out at work with 4 all way casters on it ,,,I was thinking a few bits of 2 by 4 and I can make a dolly to go between my jack and the engine, then I will be able to move it around at least..
Funny that was exactly my plan ... we had an old dolly we were chucking out at work with 4 all way casters on it ,,,I was thinking a few bits of 2 by 4 and I can make a dolly to go between my jack and the engine, then I will be able to move it around at least..
10-13-2006, 12:25 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Ice - just for good order sake I measured my dolly it's 24x24" with 2" casters. You want the casters to be as low profile as possible so you can get the engine out from underneath without having to remove the bumper and valance etc....
BTW - 'Butzip' = Ferdinand 'Butzi' Porsche
BTW - 'Butzip' = Ferdinand 'Butzi' Porsche