Seattle Engine Drop Oct 21
#16
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Sounds great James! We will be there! Please email me your address. jeremymc1@comcast.net and phone number so I can call if I get lost :-) I get my car out of the shop today and could not be more excited! I look foward to meeting you!
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Hi James,
Just went through this over the winter with my 82 SC. Coincidentally, my nephew helped me too. All the benefits of a son but less expensive.
Anyway, as the other guys have said, as long as you take your time, take lots of pictures and notes you'll be ok. I used piles of zip lock bags and sharpie markers to keep track of nuts and bolts etc...
(And should have used more!!)
Sounds like you've got things pretty well thought out. I used a Sears motorcycle jack with a piece of plywood on top wide enough to reach the heat exchangers and extend to the area at the bell housing. The catch here is, is that if the car is jacked up to high the lift of the jack is not quite high enough. Drop the jack stands about one notch and that should be enough, then when you have the engine droped go to the side jack point and lift up one side just enough to slip the engine out. I would take the extra time to take the bumper off. It will bend real easy and it makes it alot easier to get the engine out. The engine and tranny will ballance and sit quite solid on the motorcycle jack. I tried a furniture dolly and it was a bigger pain than it was worth. I bought the engine holder from Mainley Custom and the engine stand from Harbor Freight. I did have to modify the engine stand to accept the holder though. Used a engine hoist to raise and lower from jack to stand. I'll send you some pics if your interested.
I backdated to SSIs, went to 98mm Pistons and cylinders, bumped up the compression, retimed the cams, ballanced everything, updated to Carerra tensioners and rebuilt the trans. WOOO HOOO!!!! What a great Summer it's been. Hope to get to the dyno next week!!!
Good luck and have fun. It really is "doable." I'd love to help but not sure if I'm free that weekend.
If you have any questions feel free to email me at SC4DnP@aol.com.
Cheers,
Doug
Just went through this over the winter with my 82 SC. Coincidentally, my nephew helped me too. All the benefits of a son but less expensive.
Anyway, as the other guys have said, as long as you take your time, take lots of pictures and notes you'll be ok. I used piles of zip lock bags and sharpie markers to keep track of nuts and bolts etc...
(And should have used more!!)
Sounds like you've got things pretty well thought out. I used a Sears motorcycle jack with a piece of plywood on top wide enough to reach the heat exchangers and extend to the area at the bell housing. The catch here is, is that if the car is jacked up to high the lift of the jack is not quite high enough. Drop the jack stands about one notch and that should be enough, then when you have the engine droped go to the side jack point and lift up one side just enough to slip the engine out. I would take the extra time to take the bumper off. It will bend real easy and it makes it alot easier to get the engine out. The engine and tranny will ballance and sit quite solid on the motorcycle jack. I tried a furniture dolly and it was a bigger pain than it was worth. I bought the engine holder from Mainley Custom and the engine stand from Harbor Freight. I did have to modify the engine stand to accept the holder though. Used a engine hoist to raise and lower from jack to stand. I'll send you some pics if your interested.
I backdated to SSIs, went to 98mm Pistons and cylinders, bumped up the compression, retimed the cams, ballanced everything, updated to Carerra tensioners and rebuilt the trans. WOOO HOOO!!!! What a great Summer it's been. Hope to get to the dyno next week!!!
Good luck and have fun. It really is "doable." I'd love to help but not sure if I'm free that weekend.
If you have any questions feel free to email me at SC4DnP@aol.com.
Cheers,
Doug
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Doug,
Wow, that's incredible. Tell me more about your conversion to 98mm pistons. Sounds like you did a complete engine rebuild? Mine doesn't need one yet. But you are "evil" for putting the thought into my head. Reminds me of when the SSI thought got stuck in my head until I bought a pair. What does your engine modification do to your horsepower.
Please tell me more about the tranny rebuild. How doable is it. If my first gear is the only grinder, is it reasonable to assume I will only need to repair 1st gear?
Wow, that's incredible. Tell me more about your conversion to 98mm pistons. Sounds like you did a complete engine rebuild? Mine doesn't need one yet. But you are "evil" for putting the thought into my head. Reminds me of when the SSI thought got stuck in my head until I bought a pair. What does your engine modification do to your horsepower.
Please tell me more about the tranny rebuild. How doable is it. If my first gear is the only grinder, is it reasonable to assume I will only need to repair 1st gear?
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#19
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James,
Let me put the disclaimer in right up front. Any "evil" thoughts you may or may not have as it relates to this project are NOT my fault. I am mearly relating my past experiences in an effort to "help" you make the most of YOUR experience. That being said,
My project started just like yours. Seal the leaks, install SSIs do the trans and back in. 6 months and $$$$$s later, here we are.
The 98mm p&cs bump displacement to right at 3.2 litres. Really makes a difference in torque. I've been waiting for the end of race season for time on the chasis dyno. I'm hoping for around 250. I know that the other 911s and boxters that used to drive away from me are now getting smaller in my mirror!! The SSI's make a huge difference. (By the way, they are not just a simple "bolt on." but it's not that bad and still worth doing!)
To be honest I had the transmission work done. I traded the shop for labor. Is it grinding or is it a syncro issue?
I was telling my wife about your upcomming weekend project and she started laughing. She said that sounds familiar. She also said we had nothing going that weekend. Soooo, who knows, maybe I'll grab my nephew and head North.
Oh, by the way, my engine had 250,000+ - miles at the time of rebuild so it was time.
Let me put the disclaimer in right up front. Any "evil" thoughts you may or may not have as it relates to this project are NOT my fault. I am mearly relating my past experiences in an effort to "help" you make the most of YOUR experience. That being said,
My project started just like yours. Seal the leaks, install SSIs do the trans and back in. 6 months and $$$$$s later, here we are.
The 98mm p&cs bump displacement to right at 3.2 litres. Really makes a difference in torque. I've been waiting for the end of race season for time on the chasis dyno. I'm hoping for around 250. I know that the other 911s and boxters that used to drive away from me are now getting smaller in my mirror!! The SSI's make a huge difference. (By the way, they are not just a simple "bolt on." but it's not that bad and still worth doing!)
To be honest I had the transmission work done. I traded the shop for labor. Is it grinding or is it a syncro issue?
I was telling my wife about your upcomming weekend project and she started laughing. She said that sounds familiar. She also said we had nothing going that weekend. Soooo, who knows, maybe I'll grab my nephew and head North.
Oh, by the way, my engine had 250,000+ - miles at the time of rebuild so it was time.
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3.2
3.2
Evil thought
Must
resist
temptation...
SC4,
That would be great if you and your nephew come up to Seattle. If you, do, you are welcome to stay here. 3 guest rooms. You would be the Porsche expert.
I am pretty sure I won't go the 3.2 liter upgrade. My car only has 95k miles on it. But I am very curious to see how the SSIs feel. Compared to my 993, the SC engine seems a little restricted when you hit the gas, and then it opens up. I am also curious what no lambda sensor will feel like after I get the CO reset. Steve Weiner says it improves acceleration.
3.2
Evil thought
Must
resist
temptation...
SC4,
That would be great if you and your nephew come up to Seattle. If you, do, you are welcome to stay here. 3 guest rooms. You would be the Porsche expert.
I am pretty sure I won't go the 3.2 liter upgrade. My car only has 95k miles on it. But I am very curious to see how the SSIs feel. Compared to my 993, the SC engine seems a little restricted when you hit the gas, and then it opens up. I am also curious what no lambda sensor will feel like after I get the CO reset. Steve Weiner says it improves acceleration.
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Hi James,
Well, thanks, but I'm no expert. Just been down the same road ahead of you.
I'll let you know if we decide to come up. I may be able to combine a trip up for work.
As you've found out, Steve is the "Man" in all things Porsche! He has been a huge help to me.
That brings me to a point about your trans. I was all set to up grade everything to Wevo "stuff" and called Steve. His advice was before I shelled out the BIG bucks for Wevo, to replace all the bushings in the shift linkage. (Even after the rebuild I had trouble shifting into second.) I replaced only the ball cup on the end of the shift lever and it turned into a completely different trans! I'll replace the other parts too but what a difference a $7.00 part made.
I don't blame you for holding off on the bump in displacement if your not going to crack the case.
My project changed when I drained the oil to drop the enginge and found copper shavings. At that point I decided better safe than sorry. I got the pistons and cylinders off and found them to be Alusil and didn't want to take a chance off rings not seating so went to new. Welllllll, if your going to have to get new ones any way.....You might as well go BIGGER right?
Anyway, It's been a huge improvement! Lots of torque and throttle response is very quick and crisp. It revs very quick and keeps pulling to 7000.
The SSIs help it breath alot better and they sound great! I think they add to the throttle response as well. I had a bung welded in for the co sensor and it seems to work fine. Although if takeing it out improves acceleration, HMMMMMMMM... Sorry back on track.
While you have it out be sure and check the boots between the intake runners and the airbox. They can cause some big problems down the road if they're starting to crack. They're not expensive and might be worth changing anyway while it's out. (By the way, that's how it starts. Well as long as it's out I might as well......Insert the upgrade of your choice here.)
Do you have all the tools your going to need? Like the wrenches for the oil lines and that kind of thing?
Enjoy your weekend'
Doug
Well, thanks, but I'm no expert. Just been down the same road ahead of you.
I'll let you know if we decide to come up. I may be able to combine a trip up for work.
As you've found out, Steve is the "Man" in all things Porsche! He has been a huge help to me.
That brings me to a point about your trans. I was all set to up grade everything to Wevo "stuff" and called Steve. His advice was before I shelled out the BIG bucks for Wevo, to replace all the bushings in the shift linkage. (Even after the rebuild I had trouble shifting into second.) I replaced only the ball cup on the end of the shift lever and it turned into a completely different trans! I'll replace the other parts too but what a difference a $7.00 part made.
I don't blame you for holding off on the bump in displacement if your not going to crack the case.
My project changed when I drained the oil to drop the enginge and found copper shavings. At that point I decided better safe than sorry. I got the pistons and cylinders off and found them to be Alusil and didn't want to take a chance off rings not seating so went to new. Welllllll, if your going to have to get new ones any way.....You might as well go BIGGER right?
Anyway, It's been a huge improvement! Lots of torque and throttle response is very quick and crisp. It revs very quick and keeps pulling to 7000.
The SSIs help it breath alot better and they sound great! I think they add to the throttle response as well. I had a bung welded in for the co sensor and it seems to work fine. Although if takeing it out improves acceleration, HMMMMMMMM... Sorry back on track.
While you have it out be sure and check the boots between the intake runners and the airbox. They can cause some big problems down the road if they're starting to crack. They're not expensive and might be worth changing anyway while it's out. (By the way, that's how it starts. Well as long as it's out I might as well......Insert the upgrade of your choice here.)
Do you have all the tools your going to need? Like the wrenches for the oil lines and that kind of thing?
Enjoy your weekend'
Doug
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Doug,
Great. Please come up! This weekend I will clean up the garage a little. I think I have the tools. I have a metric set of sockets and some big metric wrenches, so I think I have the oil line wrenches. Or do I need special ones?
James
Great. Please come up! This weekend I will clean up the garage a little. I think I have the tools. I have a metric set of sockets and some big metric wrenches, so I think I have the oil line wrenches. Or do I need special ones?
James
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James,
The oil lines that connect to the thermostat that run to the front oil cooler can be tricky with just a standard openend or crescent wrench. If I remeber right it's a 32mm. It's the one located in the right rear fender well. It's easy to round the head of the nuts if they want to be stubborn. You also have to be vary careful not to strip the threads on the thermostat. The thermostat is aluminum and the nuts on the oil line are not so you risk gawling the threads on the thermostat. I was able to get one off with a line wrench. The other I used a die grinder / dremmell tool and cut it off. Here you have to be VERY careful not to cut into the threads of the thremostat.
The lines are very tight so make sure you support the thermostat as you loosen the lines. It sounds scary but if you take your time and don't force anything you'll be fine. Also I would start spraying them down with PB penetrating oil or the like now. The longer it has to work the better.
I'll keep and eye on my schedule and see if I can't make it up. Sounds like you've allready got some good help lined up.
Happy garage cleaning,
Doug
The oil lines that connect to the thermostat that run to the front oil cooler can be tricky with just a standard openend or crescent wrench. If I remeber right it's a 32mm. It's the one located in the right rear fender well. It's easy to round the head of the nuts if they want to be stubborn. You also have to be vary careful not to strip the threads on the thermostat. The thermostat is aluminum and the nuts on the oil line are not so you risk gawling the threads on the thermostat. I was able to get one off with a line wrench. The other I used a die grinder / dremmell tool and cut it off. Here you have to be VERY careful not to cut into the threads of the thremostat.
The lines are very tight so make sure you support the thermostat as you loosen the lines. It sounds scary but if you take your time and don't force anything you'll be fine. Also I would start spraying them down with PB penetrating oil or the like now. The longer it has to work the better.
I'll keep and eye on my schedule and see if I can't make it up. Sounds like you've allready got some good help lined up.
Happy garage cleaning,
Doug
#24
Burning Brakes
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Doug is right, that oil line is a bitch. It took 2 pipe wrenches,the bar from my jack and my brother in-law to break that sucker free. Just make sure you don't kink it!!
Super dolly in action!!
Super dolly in action!!
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Hello Dolly! Well I decided not to get a dolly because I think my motorcycle jack will work. It has wheels on it and it 3.5 inches high when down. But I doubt it will roll like your's butzip. I figure it will just reduce the process by one step. We should be able to roll out the engine, and then after removing the transmission we can hook it up to my engine stand. What I think will be nice is that we can use the motorcyle stand to jack it up to a more friendly heighth, support the transmission with my 2 ton jack, undo the four tranny bolts, and then un-mate the engine/tranny.
Then I can inspect the clutch. I was thinking how much money I would save by doing the clutch myself. The Sachs clutch kit I can get for $700 locally. I would guess the labor would be alot if I had this done at John Walker's Workshop.
By the way, I went to Napa today and bought a set of 36, 32 and 30mm wrenches. I learned today by checking that the oil hard line to the right rear needs the 36 and 30. I bought the 32 because of what Doug said. Wayne Dempsey says you can use a crescent wrench, but these should be better. By the way, the three wrenches cost 48 dollars. The 36 is Fred Flintstone sized.
I am major pumped to drop this engine this weekend baby!
Then I can inspect the clutch. I was thinking how much money I would save by doing the clutch myself. The Sachs clutch kit I can get for $700 locally. I would guess the labor would be alot if I had this done at John Walker's Workshop.
By the way, I went to Napa today and bought a set of 36, 32 and 30mm wrenches. I learned today by checking that the oil hard line to the right rear needs the 36 and 30. I bought the 32 because of what Doug said. Wayne Dempsey says you can use a crescent wrench, but these should be better. By the way, the three wrenches cost 48 dollars. The 36 is Fred Flintstone sized.
I am major pumped to drop this engine this weekend baby!
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#28
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Hey Butzip looks like a great doly. Is that engine resting right on the heat exchangers? is there no threat of them being crushed. ? Did you work on it like this or is that a temporary location before you put it on a stand ?
sorry about the questions but i am trying to be prepared.
sorry about the questions but i am trying to be prepared.
#29
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Originally Posted by SC4DnP
I'll keep and eye on my schedule and see if I can't make it up. Sounds like you've allready got some good help lined up.
Happy garage cleaning,
Doug
Happy garage cleaning,
Doug
Umm...I sure hope you were not referring to me! I am just there for the BBQ afterwards! <wink, wink>
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Actually I think I will need the 32 for one of the oil lines. Maybe one of the lines to the thermostat as you suggested. Most of the oil line wrench kits sell 30, 32, 36 and some with 27mm.
Last night I used Zep penetrating oil on anything I could find. It was like playing a video game.
Last night I used Zep penetrating oil on anything I could find. It was like playing a video game.