'72 911T Hot Rod Build
 

Searched for a while to find a candidate for a hot rod (original search thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...-driver-2.html). The car is in pretty good shape and mostly original. This will be a mild hot rod that will take some time for me (and hopefully my son will have an interest) to complete. Imagining a hot rod that someone might have built in the 70's using parts from other models/years - a sort of sleeper hot rod. It will remain a narrow body and mostly stock on the outside. I will share progress but it will probably be slow reporting as I work a crazy amount of hours in my job and will be working on a somewhat limited budget (kids in college!).

Here are my initial ideas for the build:
Start with suspension and brakes:
- 18mm front and rear sway bars (car was not optioned with sway bars)
- 21mm front and 26mm rear torsion bars (maybe hollow?)
- S front brakes
- Koni sports front and rear (currently has Boge)
- Replace all rubber bushings; leaning towards OE rubber vs. aftermarket upgrades
- 15" Fuchs deep 6's front and 7R's on rear (currently has 14" Fuchs)

Interior Ideas:
- Early 914/Carrera RS 380mm VDM steering wheel with early/SWB hockey puck horn
- 917 style shift knob
- Early/SWB window cranks (not sure they are actually lighter but look light and very cool)
- Remove rear seats, panels, shelf etc
- Lightweight carpet
- Simple door cards with custom leather pulls (vintage/rustic look to leather)
- Need to figure out seats (not sure I can afford real sport seats)

Exterior Ideas:
- Early S aluminum decklid and license plate panel (pricey but fun). Plan not to paint the inside of the decklid - leave as aluminum appearance
- Repaint in factory Signal Yellow (one of my favorites and seldom seen)
- Retain S trim as the car was optioned with it, but replace front bumper with S bumper
- Replace the 80's aftermarket mirrors with early/small flag mirrors
- H4's
- Thru horn grill driving lights (smaller - 5.5?)

Other changes to shave pounds:
- Remove a/c (appears dealer installed - not on COA)
- Replace spare with Mahle Gas burner from early 911 (lightest wheel offered on 911 - this is more fun than real weight savings from Fuchs). Keeping spare as I understand it is part of the front crash safety design.

Motor/Trans Ideas:
- Retain stock 915
- R or GT3 style muffler connected to headers (don't think I will keep heat)
- Need to figure out motor. My original plan was to put a larger 3.0 to 3.6 in it but since the car is numbers matching I will probably do a 2.5 or 2.7 build retaining MFI but that is way down the line. This will be the last thing to tackle before paint. The car runs and drives so I can drive it as I am doing the rest.

Open to ideas and input from the Rennlist community - wish me luck

The car was picked up in Michigan on Monday and is on its way to SoCal

I find that the specs of the RS that Porsche worked out long ago still make for a nice steetable rod...

Beautiful color!!

FG is what I used for rear lid & bumper and S spoiler (tho I'd prefer to strip an early Singer for the F. spoiler)

After you take 300+ lbs. out of the car, it gets really expensive to remove more (while keeping it streetable).

digressive shocks...

MFI is heavy (the pump was meant for a farm tractor...) - a 3.2 or 3.4 is nice but bumps you to the heavier but more rigid Al case
check the gearing and diff. ratios on different years of 915s to match your fav roads and engine characteristics

if you stick with a 2.7 or even a 3L a typ 911 trans. will be a lot more fun (as long as you are very careful in 1st - if not it will be a lot less fun)

nobody really knows if the spare is really part of the front crash safety design... mark it as a rumor & note that the spare would be pushed up in a crash anyway
* it does help balance out the wt.

*** work hard on the rear and up high (roll) and think about momentum, not just wt. balance - the '72 and its more fwd oil tank help you there

you list some things that are more cosmetic than functional (e.g. lightwt. carpet) - nothing wrong with looks tho I wouldn't put a lot of $$ or effort into that vs. say hp & FG

- sent you a pm

Thanks for the response - good things for me to consider for sure. The car has a FG ducktail on it now, but I prefer the standard decklid look. May consider FG parts though. I'll check your PM as well.

I also prefer no duck - it adds wt. but also adds stability maybe as low as 85 mph. I rarely go over 140 so...

Start with suspension and brakes:
- 18mm front and rear sway bars (car was not optioned with sway bars) - Good, factory option back in the day was 15/15
- 21mm front and 26mm rear torsion bars (maybe hollow?) - Good, Sanders hollow w/ rubber bush's all available from Elephant, I replaced the rear spring plates w/ Rennline adjustable versions they come w/ sport rubber bush's installed and make corne balance easier.
- S front brakes - Good
- Koni sports front and rear (currently has Boge)- I'd go w/ Bilstein hd all around have digressive revalve when you know the final weight
- Replace all rubber bushings; leaning towards OE rubber vs. aftermarket upgrades -See above Elephant rubber front, Rennline spring plates
- 15" Fuchs deep 6's front and 7R's on rear (currently has 14" Fuchs) - Good but you ought to be able to use 7ET23.3 all around, 205/50 & 225/50 x15( or more conservative 205//50 all around) tires will have a lower gearing & inertial cost than oe 185/70 x15

Exterior Ideas:
- Early S aluminum decklid and license plate panel (pricey but fun). Plan not to paint the inside of the decklid - leave as aluminum appearance
- Repaint in factory Signal Yellow (one of my favorites and seldom seen)
- Retain S trim as the car was optioned with it, but replace front bumper with S bumper On my '72 I replaced the oe steel S bumper w/ a f/g version the S trim can be bolted to that, Similarly in back use f/g

- Thru horn grill driving lights (smaller - 5.5?) - do you really need driving lights? If you upgrade the motor you will need front oil cooler and the existing front vents, or use an RS bumper & center mount cooler

Motor/Trans Ideas:

- R or GT3 style muffler connected to headers (don't think I will keep heat)- SSi are among the best exhaust choices for 2.4 to 3.0 they come w/ hea use it or not
- Need to figure out motor. My original plan was to put a larger 3.0 to 3.6 in it but since the car is numbers matching I will probably do a 2.5 or 2.7 build retaining MFI but that is way down the line. This will be the last thing to tackle before paint. The car runs and drives so I can drive it as I am doing the rest. - Forget a 3.6 unless you go to SC/RS quarters, the tires just won't be up to it. a nice 2.7RS build is the way to go.

^ thanks, Bill. Glad you confirmed much of my thinking. Those are the tire sizes I was thinking as well. You and Randy pointed out some of my items are purely cosmetic. I admit that I am trying to create a modest hot rod with some purely cosmetic touches - however this may change as I get further into the build (ie driving lights)

and there's nothing wrong with that...

BTW, the wider the tire the better the stick, BUT the worse the steering feel...

I use 6s & 7s... again like the RS

OTOH, I have the Eleph. polybronze in front, not rubber - I like it but AFAIK most people prefer the softer rubber

This will be a fun build no matter which way you go

(when you're done you can drive it a few years then start to reverse everything due to your own aging or to WAF)

Thanks - I do need to really think about the bushings. On the fence given my modest build and the way I will be using my car. I forgot to tell Bill that I am a fan of SSI's - one of the best upgrades I made on my SC many years ago. May consider them with this build as well.

+1 for GTS Classics. I just visited Stefan's shop last weekend to pick out the details on my custom seats. There are certainly cheaper options, but if you really want a custom look and fit, you can't do much better.

^, ^^ thanks guys. Yes, very familiar with them. Heard nothing but good stuff. Will definitely be a consideration.

Not that this was the most important part to start with, but I purchased my first part for the hot rod. I found an Early 914/Carrera RS 380mm VDM steering wheel. These are getting harder to find and increasingly expensive for basically a donor wheel to be restored. I hope I don't regret buying one in poor shape - but it was fairly cheep. I will restore the spokes and send off to Autobahn or Dallas to be re-wrapped in leather (thick). Now to find the hockey puck horn - wow these are scarce and crazy expensive for what it is.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e73ac12e76.png

what does it have for the charcoal canister?

It has the stock canister attached. The smell seemed to come from the engine bay although today the smell is almost gone. The car only ran for a few minutes from the Reliable transporter to my garage. Haven't started it since. Will investigate more soon - after I am done tearing out the crazy a/c!

She has lost 70 pounds - installing a/c on these cars is an abomination.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3803687a8e.jpg

replace all rubber fuel hoses (esp. the hard to reach ones next to the tank under the car) with new rubber, correctly pressure rated, and rated for ethanol mixes
replace brown/yellow hard fuel vapor hoses - do not use regular PVC

the carbon canister is good until it bursts open as long as no liquid fuel got in there (I verified this with Calif.s CARB agency)

replace all rubber brake hoses with new rubber ones from the dealer (they should be TUV rated); flush old brake fluid out completely

-repeat the above hose replacements every 10 to 15 years

Well, I was on a mission for more weight savings today - removed the rear seats backs and bottoms, the side panels, the rear parcel shelf and the asphalt sound deadening panels underneath. I think this is a weight savings of 50 pounds or so BUT, unfortunately, I found rust. I knew I would find areas of rust on an old longhood, in fact there were a couple areas I knew there were rust. There was evidence of some rust on the parcel shelf that was identified prior to purchase by inspecting through the engine bay - so I was prepared for some work there. It looks like the window seal leak that caused some rust areas on the parcel shelf was worse than I expected, as it leaked down into both seat bottoms. Keep in mind there were no visible issues from under the car, and the rear seats/panels/parcel are almost perfect in this car - almost like no one ever sat in them. After removing them, everything still looked perfect - until I tore up the asphalt sound deadening materials. Clearly the water leaked through the window seal and stuck behind this material and the carpet and caused the rust. It all rusted from the inside of the car. I know this is fairly common for these cars, but I was still shocked with how perfect everything looked until I tore up the sound deadening. So the seat bottoms appear to be surface rust and may be salvageable. I will hit them with a wheel/wire brush and see, but scraping with a screwdriver seems to indicate they may be ok to cleanup and treat with POR-15 (the pics of the seat bottoms look worse than actual - a lot of the dark areas is actually glue residue). However, if you look at the second pick below you will see the passenger side rear and above the seat bottom is a hole! The hole looks straight at the heater flapper/box. This tore open when removing the sound deadening. Interestingly, I did a quick google search and found other examples of this exact issue (hole/major rust in same spot above seat bottom). Anyway, these areas will be addressed once I am ready for body work and paint - but does present some issues with how I planned to work this project. I wasn't planning on body work for quite a while - I wanted to start with mechanicals - now I have to fix a hole to prevent CO poisoning....hmmm.

I apologize if this build thread is quickly becoming a let down.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9f89b173f0.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...501e5853c7.jpg

Hey, welcome to the rust club! Don't be too discouraged...everything is fixable.

Ha thanks. Rust club for sure. I set my expectations for this kind of stuff with this car. Your YouTube channel definitely proves everything is fixable!

So just a quick update. I had some time tonight to use an angle grinder to see how bad the rust was in the seat bottoms. There weren't any holes and the steel doesn't feel thin, however both bottoms are pitted pretty bad. The passenger side with the hole is going to need repairs at some point anyway (I think I will just do a fiberglass patch for now to close the hole so I can still drive the car) so I am not sure if it is worth putting much more effort into salvaging the seat bottoms or just replace them when I get to that point. I will seek the opinions of others on the pitting.
I may move on from this and start working under the car, starting with the rear suspension and brakes.

Hi Bill,

what part of OC are you in? I have a few of the same cars and would be keen to see this one.


Cheers,
Ryan in Huntington Beach

Hey, Ryan - looks like we might be neighbors. I am also in HB - actually, tperazzo is also in HB, so the last 3 guys to chime in on this thread (including me) are in HB. You are welcome to come by and check it out sometime - feel free to PM me.

Ok so I removed the armrests and door cards last night. Then the carpet and Vitaloni mirrors today (I don't like these but sold them quick on Pelican). Most of the interior has been removed at this point. The interior pieces are in excellent condition - I have listed them on Pelican to help fund my hot rodding. I inspected the interior of the doors and they are rust free and in great shape. Also appear to be original to the car as they have the factory Signal Yellow overspray. No other rust surprises after tearing out the rest of the interior. I also removed the old alarm system and stereo. The alarm had an install sticker with a 1983 date on it.

This car was actually a great driver when I got it. I drove it to get it registered today and it was actually the first time I have really driven a longhood - what a blast!! However, it now looks destroyed - my wife thinks I have lost my mind and asked me "what happened to that cute car" as she rode with me to get it registered with virtually no interior including no window cranks or door handles :roflmao: .now it looks destroyed!

She is getting lighter and looking destroyed at the moment.

One more interesting thing I got to see today was the production number stamped into the dash. This car has an early '72 VIN and shows July 1971 on the VIN Sticker. The production number of 314 on the dash also shows a fairly early '72 build.

the original color looks great!

^signal yellow is a great color and not one you see often. Here is what I hope my car looks like someday.

Signal Yellow is a great one !!

Funny your rust spots are probably what mine are. From underneath, the mount for the brake lines broke off.......And I love the orginal JB Weld fix. All right at the seat bottoms. We need to check our parcel shelves as they might show where the window leaked and drained to the seat bottoms...

My car had the Weltmeister bolt on sway bar mount. That's all coming off and new sway bar mounts welded it as well as sway bar "balls" on the control arms....

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e9bcdc1ec7.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c8fc4912ab.jpg

^Thanks for chiming in on my thread, Robert. I know both of us were looking for cars for quite a while that would be good to make hot rods. Your color was another on my list of favorites - just prior to my car I barely missed a great deal on a '73 Albert Blue -- it is a battle out there to buy these cars these days - especially if you aren't looking to break the bank. Keep me posted on the progress on your car. Oh, and don't you know JB Weld fixes everything -- that and duct tape :roflmao:

Ironically, I have to add some JB Weld on the back of my "new" timing case. In the factory spots this time !!! :) Unlike where that one hack job was done to try and deal with a leak. The real fix was more involved....I am changing out the timing box to a good one...

Some photos for the thread followers...

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a44fa9ef34.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0ec0f824e9.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c9c5b45c62.jpg

Figured I would give an update, although not a whole lot to share. Drove the car to AutoKennel this morning for their breakfast get together. Nice cars as usual. Enjoyed driving mine up and down PCH - figured it may be in pieces soon so had so get some time behind the wheel. So I moved it onto the lift today. Figured I start with the rear suspension. I put her up on jack stands using the rear torsion tube. Started examining the suspension. I already have challenges. I see that the bolt attaching the front of the trailing arm (near trans) has the head in towards the trans. According to what I have read, sometime around/after 71 this was supposed to be reversed so that you could remove the trailing arms without dropping the trans due to clearance issues. Not the case with my car - although my '72 was built mid-71 so maybe that's why? Then I broke my 30mm socket trying to remove the hub nuts - those suckers are tight! I will put some time in tomorrow but I really need to think more about trailing arms and if I should start with front suspension instead and do back once the motor is dropped.

So I put a couple hours back in it today. Removed the shocks and then focussed on removing the front attachment for the trailing arms. Already mentioned the issue of the bolt heads facing the trans, however I wanted to remove the nuts and see if I had clearance issues or not - Everything I have read says I will. Even removing the nuts was fun. You cannot get a socket and ratchet in there and a wrench didn't give enough leverage - so I attached a universal joint for clearance. These nuts were on very tight so I needed a cheater bar. Was able to get the driver side nut off but broke the universal joint on the passenger side. This car is going to destroy tools and my hands! A lot of reading on Pelican showed me that most people have a nightmare of a time removing these - I couldn't imagine doing this without a lift! Was able to find one guy who suggested an oxygen sensor socket - bought one and it worked perfectly. So the nuts have been removed from both sides but I haven't tried to remove the bolts yet. I will leave this for another day. I will try to loosen the trans mount to get a little extra room and if this doesn't work I'll need to cut the bolt heads off. I see Wevo sells bolt sets that allow clearance with trans in and other guys on Pelican recommend Allen head replacements to help with clearance. Will figure this out once I get these out. tperazzo lent me a 3/4" breaker for the rear hubs since my 1/2" set up wasn't working (split my socket). I need to pick up a HD 30mm for 3/4 drive and go at those hub nuts again.
I have to say I am spoiled working on my other two cars. They are in excellent condition and the fasteners aren't corroded - I haven't had this much trouble working on those cars, but I can tell this car will be a different experience. I am sure I will go thru a ton of PB Blaster!

you should SawZAll your nuts/bolts


then use the trick aftermarket item - either Elephant or SRP - P AG put a dimple in the body for '72 which helps

That's what I have been reading and am prepared to do. Already bought the blade. Should be fun.

Got more work done this weekend. Removed the entire rear suspension. Was able to get the hub castle nuts off using a 3/4" drive set that included a 6' cheater (thanks tperazzo). Was also able to get the trailing arm bolts off but had to use a sawzall as most people seem to have to do - I even dropped the trans down a few inches and shifted it to the side and it was still not enough room for the bolts to clear. Used a homemade puller that tperazzo lent me to remove the hub bearings. One side came out fairly easily but the other side was a huge PITA. The hub was stuck in the bearing and took some work to get out - then the bearing itself was really stuck and took a lot of effort to remove. This was quite a job getting everything out.

Here is the old suspension - soon to be replaced with new stuff! Will take the trailing arms to get media blasted and then need to weld the sway bar balls to the arms - crazy that Porsche didn't have these on all cars whether or not optioned with sway bars- even the brackets where they attach to the chassis need to be welded in (this is what Robert was doing to his car as he mentioned in post #33). Seems like these cheap pieces of metal would have been cheaper for Porsche to install on all cars on the assembly line.

have fun

...

You're making great progress ! I'm getting behind ! : )

I love a good hot rod build .............hope you go with the og signal yellow color ..:thumbup:

I inspected the kidney bowl area using an endoscope - both up inside and back behind it - areas you really cannot inspect with out a tool like this. Happy to report those areas look good very, very minor signs of surface rust - really almost nothing - will scrub as best as I can, treat the metal and finish just as the rest of the wheel well area.

Most definitely. You rarely see this color.

some inspiration my good friends 71 in signal yellow ...

https://i.postimg.cc/3xb14Dys/Porsche_73_T_001.jpg

Inspiration for sure :thumbup:

I have been out of town (Austin) for a while so I haven't been able to get much done on the car. I met a guy with an incredible collection of air-cooled Porsche's completely by chance when I was driving to one of the many breweries/distilleries they have popping up in Austin. Wow - I was given a tour of the building he kept and worked on his cars. Was able to see an early Signal Yellow 911 being restored that added more motivation to get my car done.

So, with that motivation, I headed to the garage after work tonight to remove the rubber bushings from the spring plates. I am thinking this might be a right of passage for torsion car owners. Grabbed a respirator and used a torch to heat the insides of the torsion tube for a few minutes and then used a screwdriver and scraper to remove them. The key was heating long enough before trying to remove them.

Bought Elephant bushings (OE softness) that I will install once the spring plates are refinished.

Spending most of the weekend at my son's lacrosse tournament. Had a couple hours to strip the oil tank. What do you know- more corrosion! I guess the tank took the brunt of the exposure on the passenger side - the body didn't have any problematic areas like driver side did. I started searching for a replacement tank and found several on the market that had corrosion in same areas as mine so this seems to be pretty typical. If you look at the photos you will see most of the corrosion is on the side that is strapped to the body. Moisture and gunk probably get trapped between and causes this on the 72 tanks.

Spent a couple hours on the car this morning before heading to lacrosse. Started scraping away the layers of dirt and gunk from the passenger side. While I still haven't found rust (just surface stuff which will come right off with wire brush), I did find that the undercoat had dried and was separating from the body in the same areas as the driver side - so I spoke too soon about no issues on this side. I scraped it all loose and will wire brush, treat the metal and respray undercoat just like I plan doing on the driver side. The more you go looking for issues on these old cars the more likely you will find them - slippery slope. This car has a crazy amount of dirt stuck to it. I am beginning to think I may have a former Baja racer on my hands. The pic below is just a small amount of debris I have removed from just the passenger side.
When I stripped the oil tank I also stripped the oil filter/thermostat console and the original oil line fittings. The console was a mess before I cleaned it. I plan to rebuild the oil hoses myself using original fittings.

If you recall from an earlier post, my oil tank was empty. That in conjunction with the crazy amount of oily gunk around my tank leads me to believe it may have been leaking. I found that it could most likely be repaired by a shop (solder/braise) but I don't want to chase down holes for years. Searched for a replacement and found all of the used ones were corroded in the exact same areas as mine - it appears the 72 tanks corrode in the area where they rest against the body. New ones are expensive. I found that new German made repros sold in Europe were half the price even with shipping from Europe. Bought one today. Sold my tank today to a guy who is going to have it repaired (it seems like it is a good repairable core).

Got a smokin deal on these original Bosch H4's. A guy in Puerto Rico was parting out a car and I took a chance on them. They are in great shape - just need a good cleaning. I sold my sugar scoops today for almost the same price I bought these H4's for.

Lot of suspension parts have been arriving. Taking a while to piece together some of the sway bar set ups. I am going with the 18mm front sway used on 76/77 Turbos - had to get some parts from Germany. Going with 18mm rear sway used on the 74 Carrera (my car wasn't optioned with sways so having to get a lot of bits).

Haven't been as productive at work since I started this project - lots of part shopping and selling.

First batch of parts went to media blasting so should have those back this week.

First batch of parts are back from media blasting. Need to head to a plater now to have the brake splash guards yellow zinc plated and the taillight housing clear zinc chromated.

So I spent most of the day cleaning and prepping the passenger rear wheel well. I wanted to remove any loose material - ended up stripping almost the entire original black paint layer. Wire brushed the areas where I removed the loose undercoat - then treated with PPG metal cleaner (phosphoric acid with detergent) and PPG metal conditioner. The metal went from shiny to cloudy after the cleanser was applied, as it coats the surface with zinc phosphate.

Also drilled out the holes for the sway bar balls. Will have these welded in before the trailing arms are finished.

Stripped the driver side rear wheel well today. Also wire brushed and treated the exposed metal like I did on passenger side. Shot with epoxy primer.
Stripped the oil line and repainted it in high temp black paint. Rebuilt the other line using the correct Cohline hose I picked up from 911Rennen and reusing the original fittings (these are much better than the crimp fittings and are harder to find anymore).

Refinished the spring plates in black and mounted the new Elephant bushings to them. I hope the super glue that comes with the kit holds! Also took my trailing arms to a welder to have the sway bar ball mounts welded in. Now I need to press in the new hub bearings and bushings. I decided to go with Porsche trailing arm bushings. Much more expensive than the aftermarket bushings but I have had trouble with aftermarket rubber in the past and don't want to have to replace these things again.

Parts packages have been arriving regularly at my house - feels like Christmas for sure! My new oil tank arrived today from Italy. Also received a meter of the correct cloth covered breather hose and a new Porsche oil level sending unit to drop in to my new tank. Still waiting for fasteners to come back from plater - a bit of a debacle which I can share later when I get them.

Pressed in the trailing arm bushings and hub bearings. Putting the bearings in the freezer trick helped a bit. Finished the arms by first shooting a 2k epoxy primer and then top coating with a 2K catalyzed ceramic paint. Same treatment on the bumper brackets.

Almost ready to paint the final coat of black in the wheel wells. The treated areas were sealed with a 2k epoxy primer a few days ago. I used this internal sealer (below) in all areas that I couldn't get to, including inside and behind the kidney bowls and up in the area that runs along the engine bay. The spray comes with a 24-inch tube that reaches inside the tough to get to areas. It uses phenolic resins and Zinc phosphate to seal the area. Who knows if it works, but worth a try in these areas.
I then shot undercoat on top of the epoxy primer that I sealed the treated areas with a couple days ago. I attempted to replicate the texture/pattern of the factory undercoat using acid brushes. Not quite a match but good enough - I may spray one more light coat to try a little more texture for a better match.
The wheel well areas are ready to paint - then the suspension finally goes back in! Cannot reassemble anything yet since my parts are still at the plater - ugh.

Boxed up my rear calipers to ship off to PMB Performance for restoration/rebuild. Was going to rebuild them myself but the pistons look like crap - rather the best take care of everything. Car had Textar pads on it, but thinking of switching to Porterfield R4-S pads.

Didn't get much done on the car yesterday/today - I am waiting for the call that my plating is done. I did have the rotors spun and ordered more parts :) I found a great place to get metric fasteners (www.Belmetric.com) - for those looking for a place. I also had to get my 993 emissions check done today - gotta love CA...every 2 years! That is the greatest part of this '72 -- no emissions! My SC passes each year by the skin of its teeth as I do not have a cat on it (SSI's into Dansk sport). It was nice getting the 993 out - I haven't driven it much at all lately, especially with the new project. Gotta love the 3.6 :)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...85c996b326.jpg

^ thanks - I hear they are the best. My calipers were a wreck. Didn't send fronts because I am looking for S calipers to replace my M's

Same here. They did mine on my 87 Carrera and they look and perform great!

^verrrry nice. I have to get some of those beauties. Tell me more about your setup...

Doing most parts in yellow zinc chromate and a few in clear zinc chromate. I spent a bunch of time cleaning parts and even having some media blasted only to be told I wasted my time. The plater I went with said that plating my parts would have resulted in B or C quality and he provides A (he showed some examples) - sounds like a sales pitch, but what the hell, I agreed to have all of my parts sent to his guy that preps everything and then back to him for plating. I actually learned quite a bit talking to him so I am hoping the extra time and $ is worth it. At least going forward I know to just bring the parts in to him right off the car.

You can see the parts we did here (except the idle control valve).
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14138256

I can't recall exactly but I believe the older cars had cad plating vs. zinc. In my note above I meant cad, I tried a few parts and it didn't look right, i suspect the process just wasn't right. And, it's expensive. Especially in CA. Yellow/clear zinc is the way to go. Should look awesome. Amazing what a little effort on the bolts and bits does.

I remember following your work - it came out great. Yes, cadmium is difficult to find in CA - in fact, I recently found how difficult it was even to find old school hot tanks at shops in CA - they all have to use biodegradable solvents which they told me are almost worthless for serious parts cleaning. I learned that the zinc is actually silver/not yellow - it is the different chromate finishes (yellow, clear/blue, black) that provide the color. Anyway, I think the SWB cars had more cadmium plating than the LWB cars - but could be wrong. I understand that some of the parts that they used cadmium were actually done with clear cadmium. That is the beauty of this hot rod project - I dont have to go too overboard with originality. I didnt separate many of my parts into color groups - most went in a large bag for the yellow chromate finish - some might gasp at this :) My other two cars are very original and it can take the fun out of driving them, etc (I am always paranoid that the original paint will get damaged) - where this car will be a blast to enjoy since it is already a step away from original. Dont get me wrong, I am trying to keep a mostly factory look - but not going overboard. My theme with this car is a hot rod someone would have done in the late 70's/early 80's - such as taking parts from other Porsche models, etc - the old school socal hodrodding way :thumbup:

Oh, and one more thing to get you thinking about all of this re-plating stuff -- hydrogen embrittlement -- my buddy who is an engineer mentioned this to me. We should be fine since most of the hardware is marked 8.8 or less - but there are some bolts I may not treat for precaution.

Oh man sounds awesome - would love to ride in it to see how it goes! I am obviously doing pretty modest stuff, but who knows if I will want to get more aggressive after it is done :) we all have the sickness :) now you will also have to share the details of the 2.9! Did you use a Mag block? I will most likely build my motor out of my 2.4 since it is numbers matching - but have read all the pros and cons of Mag vs Al cases. I was also planning on retaining the MFI although the pump ads weight back there.

Removed the leather wrap and stripped the paint from the 380mm VDM wheel I had bought (see post #13 - it was a piece of crap, but cheap :) stripped down to metal and treated various rust pits with the PPG stuff. Filled pits with spot filler putty and have sprayed two coats of self etching primer. Will sand and fill as necessary. Will topcoat with 2k ceramic. For those interested in learning more about these wheels (I continue to learn more about the longhoods - maybe most on here already know this stuff), here is an interesting read: http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...eels-THE-TRUTH

Here is the look I am going for (keeps with my theme of taking parts from other Porsche's)

you filled metal areas with spot filler putty before primer/paint, right?

did you fill any crack or divots on the original leather before re-wrapping or putting on new leather?

So many of us fall down these hills! Your motor build sounds great - giving me ideas as well since yours was built using a 2.4 Mag case. 221 has to be a blast - very good hp/lbs ratio I'm sure. The cool thing about MFI is that it isn't seen a whole lot anymore, as many cars had it all removed and replaced with carbs over the years - this is one big reason I am thinking about keeping the MFI (just hot rodded/bored/tuned).

Hey Randy - yes, I stripped down to bare metal using a strip-it disc on my angle grinder - then cleaned the crap out of the rust pits, then treated with PPG - I should have taken a photo of them before - then applied the spot filler and sanded before primer. Two coats of primer drying and will go from there. I don't think I will wrap myself - probably taking it to Autobahn to have a thick wrap done.

thanks! will do!

Look what I got :cool: The correct later style ('72+) "S" ATE Alloy Calipers for my hotrod. These are insanely light. They are basically the same as those used on the 908/910. They are in pretty good shape, but they will be shipped off to PMB for a full restoration - they will look like Rob's then (above)!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8501ec82ce.jpg

Much respect for the work you are doing on this Porsche. It's going to be an epic car when you are finished!

I must ask about your gauges. The Heuer badged clock and the extended range tach are pretty cool. Did they come with the car or did you source them?

Thanks

Thanks - I have a loooong way to go :thumbup:

I think confused a couple folks with those photos - I just added the two photos of the wheel to show folks what this steering wheel thick wrapped with the hockey puck horn button will look like when I'm done. I grabbed that photo from the Internet - definitely nice car.

After buying my 308GTS it took me two years and a couple of flatbeds to get it reliable enough to take it down the road to cars and coffee or on a beer run.
Your car will be special when you are through and I hope well worth the effort.

I would like to see more on the 308 - sounds like a great project. I appreciate the encouragement - it is motivating!

Can't post Ferrari pics here but I am on Fchat with all kinds of pics and nightmare scenarios.

Bottom line what fails in 1980s Ferraris is all the Bosch, yes German Bosch, components like fuel distributors, warm up regulators, fuel injectors, etc. Also the engine seals create havoc with the distributors and trans to engine seals. The cars are beautiful but the engineering is lacking and the build quality Crap with a capital C.
Bottom line they are a completely different experience to drive than Porsche but I think worth the effort.

Porsche, however, is the better choice all around and for vintage and new and that will be my focus until the bitter end.

I have an fchat account but haven't logged in a while. My buddy has ferraris so I would follow his stuff. If your user is the same I will look you up.

Yes, same user name there. Check it out.

Finally got initial batch of parts back from plater - hope to start putting things back together soon!

Very nice ! Always exciting....

Bill, which plating shop did you use and what was their turn around time? My local guys do great work, but they tend to try and add my stuff in with large industrial jobs and it can take a while...

I have some bits and bobs that still need to be done...

Hey Robert, I used Active Plating in Santa Ana. They operate 24 hours a day and can turn stuff around in hours if you want. My experience with them is mixed. My order was lost in the holiday hours and mixup with their prep guy so hard for me to say whether or not my order was a normal experience or just bad luck. Most items came out good except for pieces that were in bad shape and probably should have just been replaced. The condition of the part definitely affects both the color and surface appearance - I continue to learn along the way!

Now I have to remember where all these parts go!

Awesome - I will have catch a ride in your car when it is done so I know what to look forward to lol
This should help:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8254a44c43.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1ea0c6ca81.png

#12 911 333 701 01 18mm Stabiliser (1)
#13 911 333 793 05 Stabiliser mounting (4)
#14 901 333 731 01 Tab Left (1)
#14 901 333 732 01 Tab Right (1)
#15 901 343 782 00 Articulated bush (2)
#16 901 333 753 01 Supporting bow (2)
#17 900 027 015 03 Lock ring (4)
#18 N 010 239 30 Hexagon-head bolt (4)
#19 900 089 010 02 Washer (2) (I had to order this from Belmetric)
#20 900 021 026 00 Cotter pin (2) (I had to order this from Belmetric)
#21 Bracket (2) 911 501 180 20 GRV Prime coated (2)
#11 901 331 571 07 Articulated bolt (2)

oh, and the 18mm front is a super cool set up for those trying to keep that OE look but maximize the thru the body style performance (IMHO). Not sure if you researched that thread on Early S, but here is a pic of the arms used - these are unique to just this 18mm bar set up as it is beefed up for that large bar (even the ends are larger). I think it is cool anyway :thumbup:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...72f18e1b43.png

Always smart to keep the OE stuff around! One thing I should have mentioned to Spyerx as he is evaluating his build is that using the OE rear sway bar mounts can have its challenges. The part number I gave above (#21) is the latest version of those mounts from Porsche and they have improved the design a bit with gussets, but I read a bunch of threads about the original brackets breaking with spirited driving and people upgrading to stronger aftermarket mounts (Wevo). I personally think it could have to do with age and corrosion though. I am still going OE myself, but this is a word of caution. Rob, I am guessing you upgraded those mounts?

I'm going to order the OE parts for now for my year, will see what shop says, if they want to put higher quality mounts to the chassis I'll just buy them.
Hope fuel pump not an issue LOL.
I can see the slope coming.

Yes, I went with the Wevo mounts. I really like how they came out.

On the 2 parts you ordered from Belmetric, looks like these are available from porsche (these are the 74 part numbers):
#19 Drop link washer x2: N0115301
#20 Drop link cotter pin x2: N0125361

Given the bar is the later bar, wouldn't you need these for the 18mm bar vs. the parts from the early cars?

Now I'm thinking I'll just order the better mounts from Ira (tarrett) or Wevo, not sure if they are the same, Ira carries other peoples parts too. Ok time to call shop and ask lol.

Ok NM: Just ordered the 18mm full setup from Sunset porsche - got the later factory mounts, ordered the above washer/pin. Can always change when it comes time for install.

Thx.

^I may have gotten those numbers mixed up across PET's - I just ordered the same things from Belmetric - yes, washers with inner 18mm diameter and 4x30 cotter - they work perfectly. Probably a good call on the Wevo's - I have to admit I am struggling to balance an OE look with aftermarket changes that just make good sense.

PMB is still working on my rear calipers - but hope to have them back soon. As I mentioned in post #66, I was thinking of trading out my Textar pads for Porterfield R4-S pads - the guys at PMB agree. I am going to be sending them my recently acquired S calipers (post #86) as well - just ironing out the details for the rebuild/restoration (which is going to take several weeks - giving me time to tear apart the front end) -- I will most likely be upgrading the pistons to their DuroAno S-Caliper Pistons, which are half the weight of the stock pistons - making these already insanely light calipers even lighter!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...50665b6df9.png

making these already insanely light calipers even lighter doesn't help with the rotors...

true - it is a very slippery slope isn't it :thumbsup: I have a feeling this project and kids college tuition is going to begin butting heads a lot more!

Awesome thread. Love seeing the progress. I did not even know my profile was still active.

Hey Joe - thanks. Now you just need to get back in a Porsche.

More parts arriving. As mentioned earlier, my left rear bumper corner was bent and the right side had a hole cut in it for a tailpipe (car must have had a dual outlet muffler in the past). So I am replacing both sides. Dansk offers a replacement option for the left side with no tailpipe cutout, which is perfect since I am going with an R or GT3 style muffler - cleaner look with no holes in my bumpers. The finish and fit of the Dansk parts seem to be good - just quickly holding up to where they mount looks good - see when I bolt them on if the gaps are good.

I have to admit that I am a bit all over the place with this project - still haven't finished the rear suspension yet working on bumpers, steering wheel, headlights etc - I need to get organized again. To some extent, I am just picking up good deals on things I know I will need at some point. So with that said, my plan is to clean up the dash on my car but stay very close to the OE look. I do not have knee pads on my car since I took out the A/C dash vents. Instead of replacing with the OE 3-piece (counting the ash tray) LWB knee pads, I want to go with a single, clean knee pad like the SWB cars had. I don't smoke and if I did, I wouldn't smoke in my 911 - so why do I need an ash tray?! My kids even wondered what that huge tray was for :) I am being told (so far by one person) that the single knee pad piece from the SWB cars will fit a LWB car with the ash tray removed. Talking to a guy about buying his part, but before I jump in, is there anyone out there that has actually installed this knee pad in their LWB that can attest to it fitting and maybe share a photo? I also want to be sure the profile looks correct and lines up with the upper sections.

My other ideas for cleaning things up is to remove the fresh air controls (the radio is already removed - so I can close off that entire middle section to the glove box with the OE basket material) and the dash speaker when I replace the cracked dash pad. My tunes will come from the flat 6 in the back and the fresh air will come from rolling (manually) the windows down:)

I put the Porterfields on my M-Calipers and the difference is pretty amazing. I was going to look for the S-calipers, but at this point, I don't know that I need more performance for my type of driving. It would be more of an upgrade to sought after parts. : )

I keep hearing good things about the Porterfields so I am looking forward to having those on all four corners. For me, my car is such a basket case that I planned on replacing my strut assemblies anyway so I figured when I do I might as well replace them with 3.5 spacing struts. And then it opens the door to the S calipers. Since i am hotrodding this thing i am also trying to save weight where I can so it addresses that as well...hey, now that i have tried to justify these things I'll just be honest - these calipers just look cool man :)
Robert, you should be posting pics of your sweet T on here - you and Spyerx have T's that my POS inspire to be someday :)

Ok, I finally finished prepping the wheel wells and sprayed the final topcoat on them this morning. I used satin catalyzed 2K ceramic as the topcoat. I may actually start putting the rear suspension on tomorrow :icon501:
MY car finally has a couple areas that look decent - the rest of the car not so much :roflmao:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ee9785a793.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f85f27bab5.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4bffd359fa.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...594fc2a14c.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f8e1eac1a0.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f85406a961.jpg

Do yourself a favor and buy 930 struts and either matching 930 rear shocks or bonus points buy them and have a digressive revalve done, Talk to Elephant, they can do it all at once

I also like what Sptrex is doing for T-bars, if the tires have any reasonable amount of grip the stockers(18.8/23) allow way to much lean, 21/26 is a nice place to be for street use. Especially so w/ digressive Bilsteins

^hey Bill. I already purchased 21/26 torsion bars and 18/18 sway bars. I also purchased Bilstein HD rear shocks and was planning on Bilstein front struts and have valving done once I know final weight. This was based on advice from you and Randy (was originally planning Konis). What is the difference with the 930's? All of this is sitting in my dining room - my wife loves it :roflmao: was planning on deep 6 front Fuchs and 7's in back (originally thinking R but maybe not R's now due to needing spacer)

The 930s come w/ HD valving, 911 versions will have their own stack, but if revalving your don't care

Ok thx

how low do you want to go?

spacers are ok at one level; but redoing the struts is best if really low (as is searching for gas stations with a low slope on their driveway aprons...)

Ok, so here are some of the parts that have been sitting in the dining room that I plan on starting to install tomorrow with my son.
New Oil tank and sender (for this '72 oil flapper 911) and all new proper oil lines
26mm sway away torsion bars
Refinished spring plates with Elephant OE type rubber bushings
Refinished trailing arms with new hub bearings and new Porsche bushings, with new Porsche sway bar balls mounted
Complete Porsche 18mm sway bar kit with Porsche drop links and bushings
Bilstein HD shocks

Should be fun
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c6f477b2c2.jpg

the time to send them in to Bilstein for digressive valving is now...

and yeh - you want it

Probably going a tad lower than euro - using this spring plate indexing tool from Elephant (thanks, Robert) I will probably install at 24 degrees.
https://www.elephantracing.com/tech-...le-calculator/

Ok, I thought I would want to wait until final weigh-in? I may wait until I get fronts and send off together. Since you mentioned this back in the beginning of my build I have been planning on doing it.

You don't need the exact weight, +/- a hundred or so #s won't make a meaningful difference, close is good enough, unless you have an in, turn around can be pretty long

Hmmm darn. I am guessing my car will come in around 2200 pounds. Sound about right? Randy gave me some cool stuff to educate on weight savings but haven't contemplated everything I will be doing yet. With my simple stripping so far (removed front door handles/arm rests and pockets, remove all of rear seating and panels as well as sound deadening, all of A/C, stereo and speakers, will use lightweight carpet, lighter front calipers, will be using aluminum deck lid and I'm sure more once I get back to reading Randy's stuff) I thought 2200 would be close.

That's pure Porsche parts porn! Inspirational to say the least.

Looks really good!
My sway bars and torsion bars should be here next week.
Seats too.
Steering wheel not sure.

My car has HD dampers on it now, so we'll see how it is once I get the new suspension bits on it. If OK will leave, if not we'll get them tweaked. Shocks/struts are easy enough to remove on these cars.

Thanks - yeah I sprayed the topcoat on my RS wheel today. Happy how it came out. I need to get it to Autobahn now for thick leather wrap. Who knows when I'll get it back.

Was able to make some progress on the passenger side today. Installed trailing arm, new torsion bar, spring plate (set at 24 degrees) and oil tank and lines. Had to use a homemade spreader to widen the bracket for the trailing arm a few millimeters to handle the new bushings - Robert had given me a heads up so I was prepared for this. My OCD was really kicking in with each scratch in the new black finishes - I did cover some areas with painters tape but still nicked and scratched some things :banghead: My son joined me and learned how the rear suspension of a Porsche works. :thumbup: I should have him help with my photos since mine aren't that great lol

Looking good Bill !!!

I have been delayed due to work.

My seats are supposed to ship from Stefan at GTS Classics this week !! : )

I'm getting so close to having the whole rear of the car finished.....then we tackle the front. I have two new Sonnenshein batteries. I need new hold downs. All the front suspension to be powder coated and new bushings. Tank needs to come out to replace some hoses, etc. I imagine that will go relatively fast compared to the rear of the car !

^thanks, Robert. I hope to swing my car around on my lift and start tearing the front suspension out soon as well. Plan on replacing all the fuel lines as well once tank is out. Keep me posted on your build and get some pics on here soon - you have one of the best colors. I wish I had seats coming - that will have to wait a while for my car, it still needs a lot of love.

I wanted something to do while I watched the national championship game. Decided to start cleaning up my taillight housings. As with everything with my car there are layers of dirt inside and out. Below is after taking one layer of dirt off already. A few bulbs were corroded and stuck in their housings - had to take the back off the sockets in order to remove them. The back plates were corroded pretty badly so I had those sandblasted and plated already (they were pictured in earlier photos in my thread). Will strip and finish these.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...29092c4850.jpg

Memories....

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...eab55e2a1c.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c4ddadd29b.jpg

I know my order for seats took a few months from GTS. Stefan makes a great product and hes covered up. Several guys in town have his seats including Mayo...

Rob, did you do much to restore yours? Maybe a quick cleanup? I have cleaned mine up pretty good - removed corrosion, cleaned all contact points, lubed the sockets a tiny bit with lithium grease, purchased new seals and may spray some metallic/chrome finish to the inside.

Post some pics when they are in!

^looks great! Will post a photo of mine when done.

Way earlier in my thread I shared that my car had aftermarket mirrors. I have been searching for original mirrors (the small rectangle size was only used in '72, '73 - and I like it better than the small round). Lots of repros out there and a few originals that were $$. I found a great deal on Early S for this driver side mirror. Still looking for passenger side or may just weld up the mounting holes on that side - I doubt it was delivered with a passenger side mirror (Not on COA) and it is a cleaner hot rod look.
Attachment 1298578

Nice job on the mirror !

I ended up getting a large Durant mirror at Freisinger in Karlsruhe while travelling on our annual Germany trip...
Got back to Dallas and Ed Mayo looked at it and said, "If it's a reproduction, it's so good no concours judge would take points off !"

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f276f366e5.jpg


Other amazing goodies sitting around there at Freisinger. Tons more in terms of cars, but no photos allowed there.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...80756bcfa4.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7cfe950cbc.jpg


Oh, my seats are sitting in a FedEx warehouse in town. Signature required and no one was home today. I'll get them tomorrow !! : )

Nice goodies for sure! Nice pick up on the mirror. We are headed to Germany in a few months as well (already booked my factory tour!) and have a feeling I will be coming back with some goodies as well :thumbup:

Can't wait to see photos of the seats!

Freisinger is a goldmine of vintage Porsche parts. I'm told by Germans that know, that the father evidently bought all the parts Porsche wanted out of the factory that were taking up too much space, for years and years. Now some are priceless.

I got a peak of the rows and rows of shelves in there of soooo much stuff. I'll be back. : ) Conveniently, I get to visit my brother in law every year right down the road from there !!

I think I am going to have to add a stop on our itinerary :) we are in Germany only 3 days though, as we are spending time in Amsterdam and Switzerland as well.

Bring a lot of Euros. He only takes cash....and he knows exactly what he has....

Excellent work on your car, but frankly the reason for the quote embarrassingly enough is to ask about the bottle in this pic. I have been trying to chase down this Brew for a buddy and they do not distribute anywhere on the east coast. Is it as good as everyone says it is?

^so here is a little about me. In addition to old air cooled Porsche's, I enjoy music on vinyl records and good beer. We are spoiled in CA with having an explosion of craft beers. I am always trying new beers at craft breweries - even when I travel on business, I usually look up the local breweries. Pliny is very good - if you like IPA's it should be on your list to try. There are better IPA's popping up all the time here in CA though. It is even really hard to get Pliny here in CA as they really limit the distribution. Only a few places can sell it, it shows up randomly at those places and they limit ONE bottle per person - crazy, right? So one of my favorite breweries is Long Trail in VT and they do not distribute out here - maybe we can work out a trade :biggulp:

I may start a new theme in some of my pics by introducing some of my favorite brews haha

^^^

You read my mind. PM'd

*nice! Wow, love the tap setup - good selection on tap with stickers from other microbreweries - I would be up for a pour for sure! Will definitely have to see if I can make a trip your way. We may be headed to eastern OR this summer (crater lake and Bend - hit Deschuttes brewery there) but maybe not quite to Eastern WA - we will see. Cheers!

Got the driver side trailing arm and spring plate installed. Experience from doing the passenger side helped this go very smoothly. Attachment 1298699

Got my ebrake/hub hardware sandblasted and powder coated. I also got my rear signal housings and heater boxes sandblasted but I started painting them before I took a picture - will share pics of those after they dry.

Painted the heater boxes using high temp header paint and high temp clear. Not sure I will even put these back on the car yet as I will be cleaning up the area around the trans and motor when it is dropped and also repairing the rear seat buckets will require these to be removed anyway. But they look a heck of a lot better now :thumbup:

Hey man. I kept stock. I'm weird. I continue to struggle between stock and mod. I want someone to look in the wheel wells and see stock but the mods are hiding. This will be a sleeper hotrod. I even painted mine black like the longhoods do. My motor will be the same. Keeping MFI but the guts will produce ponies.

oh and my CV's were supposedly done by a shop recently based on receipts. -- watching Rams game and just realized I quoted my own statement for this reply - dumb

Adjustable plates probably make way more sense. Who knows, I may even go that direction someday once I stop feeling bad about modifying a longhood. I have two very original cars - so this is a bit new to me. Still trying to balance stock and mod - eventually that balance will falter!

Go Rams :thumbup:

Adjustable spring plates are a good thing. Everyone at my shop said so. We obviously are not building concours cars, so, that provides some leeway.

I just had my CVs rebooted. I've done it before, but hate that job, so I had Chris at Mayo's do them for me. God bless him.

Nice work on the heater boxes Bill ! Per Ed, I used red oxide paint and clear over that.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0640f9e36e.jpg

^Agree on spring plates. The challenge is the balance - as I was refinishing my steel trailing arms I was wondering if I should have just replaced with aluminum arms (from later models) - decided to stick with stock steel trailing arms and stock spring plates.

I took your tips on heater boxes - I already had the high temp clear from touching up my 'big red' calipers on my 993.

Well the driver side rear is back together. Took a little while to figure out how to put the ebrake assembly back together. Also fought getting the hub in the new bearing - I even had the hub in the freezer. Still waiting for calipers to come back from PMB. Will torque the hub nut and insert the cotter pin once I get the car back on the ground.

Excellent !!!

^, ^^ thanks guys

Took Rob's tips on restoring the taillight assemblies. They were sandblasted and painted using exactly what he posted to use. I did get a couple small runs, but the seals will cover the runs on the edges. The back covers were plated

Yep they look like new again....:thumbsup:

^, ^^ thanks guys

So it has been raining like crazy in SoCal - haven't wanted to even go in the garage (yes, weather wimp). So I thought I would clean up my taillight lenses to look good with the cleaned up housings. I already had the paint from cleaning up the housings so decided to clean up the chrome edges to remove dirt and loose paint - there was quite a bit of chrome paint missing. Then masked them off, painted with the chrome paint and sealed with clear to protect the new finish. Came out decent for low effort low cost. Was afraid to completely strip the original finish due to concerns with clouding the plastic with removers (these are old original lenses). Areas that don't look quite as good are due to marks in the plastic. Ordered new seals.
I guess I accomplished something this week :thumbup:

Too much work. No progress for me in two weeks.

I hope to get the passenger rear finished this weekend. I understand about work. Busier times are coming my way soon at work. I think the front end is going to take a lot more time.

PMB shipped my rear calipers today along with fresh Porterfields and speed bleeds :thumbup: Cant wait to get the rear suspension/brakes back together!

Nice. BTW, when I need porterfields I just call them and drive over. They're just down in Costa Mesa.

I should go check that place out - excuse for a P car cruise :cheers:

No calipers yet - set to be delivered to me Tuesday. Went ahead and finished the passenger side e-brake assembly and hub and flange. I had the hub in the freezer nestled by the Eggos for a few days this time - didn't seem to make a difference as it was a little difficult to insert into the new bearing - just as the driver side - but hey it's done!

Tired of waiting for rear calipers to arrive so I went ahead and put the front end up on wood blocks and started to assess the work ahead of me. I knew the front was a mess when I bought it but it might be even worse than expected. Passenger side looks decent but driver side is bad. So here is what I know so far:
- Front pan replacement job looks sloppy and suspect. No protectant or undercoating was sprayed after it was done (prior owner said this was done in the 80's) so there is surface corrosion on the replacement sheet metal - but doesn't look bad at all - however, the seams where the new pan was welded in look quite rusty - we will see how bad when I start to strip it down. The reality is that it might just need to be cut out and done over again anyway.
- There is an area on the driver's side front down low (front and below battery box) that is rusted through.
- The driver side front fender shows evidence of a minor collision. Crappy Repairs were done to it and again the areas weren't protected afterwards and are rusting - especially along the seam where it meets the tub. I am worried about the area up high closest to the door/ A pillar and cowl. Guess I will know what I am in for when I take that fender off.
- Suspension and steering components look tired and crusty
- Gas tank is a bit scraped up.
- Headlight buckets will need repairs/replacement

So here goes round two :rockon:

Oh I know a full respray in Signal Yellow is in my future - as well as interior work and expensive motor work. Trying to take it one step at a time so I don't get overwhelmed :). I bought this car right so I will be fine with total investment when she is done -- whenever that is :roflmao:

check under the F. A-arm mounts for rust

Looking good BIll! The rear is coming together nicely. You have to eat an elephant one bite at a time..

^thanks! Very true. I keep telling myself one section of the car at a time.

I need to learn this behavior :-)

If this were mine (and keep in mind, i'm still poking around my car... who knows what else I could find) I'd fix anything that is structural/very necessary now and just enjoy the car for a while.Pics you showed don't look bad at all. All fixable.

^luckily I have 2 others to enjoy while this one is being brought back to life. I do understand what you are saying. My hope is to get suspension and brakes done then fuel lines and anything important I find along the way - then enjoy her for a while until I move onto body repair, paint and the motor. But that may change as I continue working on her :thumbup:

So you know how you can describe nuts/bolts/fasteners on old cars - they are tight as hell!!!

The rear suspension gave me some fits, and now the front is busting my knuckles. Those of you that have had to remove the strut wedge bolts, ball joint retainers and tie rod ends know what a PITA these can be. First everything was soaked in PB Blaster. I tried a large c clamp on the wedge bolt and bent the clamp! then had to upgrade to a really large c clamp to crank the bolt out -hard to describe how much force it took from this large clamp to press these bolts out. The end of one of the bolts was smashed by the time it was popped free (see in photo). Then on to the tie rod ends - tried a puller designed for this which didn't work, then went Neanderthal and used a pickle fork,with a 2 foot cheater to put a lot of pressure while whacking the bolt with a hammer - finally came free - passenger side a little easier. The ball joint retainers were also very difficult to remove. Bought special socket and had to use 2 ft cheater bar. Good fun:thumbup:

penetrants require time to work - often, several days at least; AND you want to tap on it with a steel hammer a few hundred times too

whenever I buy an old car, I hose down all the suspension fasteners with a penetrant then repeat each year for the yearly inspection

a torch is the 2nd to last option (right before EDM)

^^i am sure they will go ok. I have done the turbo tie rods on my SC and it was pretty easy. I maintain both my SC and 993 and never have had issues removing things like I have had with this car. Age (my T is 47 years old and everything is still original that I have removed so far) and corrosion makes things much more difficult.

I definitely should have let the penetrant soak longer.

I will as I tear things apart - I am worried about all of those hollow areas (between susp pan layers, inside gas tank longitudinal's, etc). I have an endoscope that I will be using. It is a shame that the first suspension pan replacement wasn't done better - how do you cut out rusted sheet metal, weld new in and then not protect it from rusting? Rust was the problem to begin with!

I will be removing the front driver fender so I removed the signal housing. As with the rears, the signal housing is a mess. The mounting screws were rusted in so I had to use my dremel to cut the back of the screws off. The bulbs are completely corroded in their sockets so I am soaking them with PB Blaster. I will restore (sandblast and re coat) the signal housings as I did the rears.

Placed another order of parts for front end work today:
Turbo tie rod kit
New bearings and seals for front end
New ball joints and mounting hardware
New front sway bar bushings
New seals for front turn signal lenses to complete restoration of those

Have most of what I need for 18mm front sway bar setup. Already have 21mm Swayaway torsion bars. Leaning towards Elephant rubber bushings for strut top camber plates. Need to order Bilstein HD struts and get my S calipers restored/rebuilt.

Getting expensive fast :crying:

Was happy to open a package today and see these pretty babies :thumbup: it was like the Ahh angelic choir sound playing when the gold shined in the light when I opened them up. Anyway, finally have the rear calipers with Porterfields back from PMB. Here is a little before and after:

Hopefully it will be smooth. My car is rust free but not dirt free but that's an easy one to live with.
Bought this kit on amazon to help with the tie rods and hopefully the transmission mounts.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...616eecdb71.jpg

On the calipers. Yes PMB does a nice job. Wish I had painted mine red BEFORE I installed them. I really want the red look with white labels and I'll either need to remove them of do serious masking if I want them red now.

Those are some great tools. The tie rod puller in that kit is similar to the first tool I tried on mine and it was actually spreading it and it wasn't working - that's how crazy tight mine were.

I like the red with white labels - have that on my 993 - great look for sure

OrionMotorTech 5-in-1 Ball Joint Separator Tie Rod End Remover Pitman Arm Puller Service Splitter Removal Tool Kit

by 4.1 out of 5 stars
| Price:$55.99

Pretty inexpensive. I know they won't be the best quality but I will only use them occasionally so they should last.

Installed rear brake lines, brake calipers, new Porterfield pads and hardware. Sure looks a lot better than the front suspension looks right now. :roflmao:

Looks brilliant!

My son and I removed the entire front suspension and steering rack today. Will start getting parts media blasted and refinished. Working on removing front bumper and driver side fender. Will provide that update soon.
Attachment 1299458Attachment 1299457Attachment 1299459Attachment 1299456

Good work! How long did that take?

I need to do the same but it likely has to wait until after our March event. Still need to finish getting the motor back in. So close, but all efforts totally derailed the past three weeks.

By the way, I think you be pleased with the Porterfields.

yes, it looks great


be sure not to get any brake dust on it...

Took me maybe 2 to 3 hours to remove brakes, tie rod ends, wedge bolts and ball joint nuts (my post from last weekend). That was the most difficult part because everything was so tight. Then took me maybe 3 hours today to drop the suspension and separate it all. Not a bad job at all - especially if you have a helper. My son helped because I dropped the front suspension down intact so he helped me carry it down from the car to the floor once the bolts were removed.

I thought I was done for the day but got a second wind. I removed the top camber plates from the struts (pipe wrench helps hold it from spinning), then removed the rubber bushings from the plates to get them ready for Elephants. I also separated the tie rods from the rack to make way for turbo tie rods.

Ok - removed the front bumper and driver side fender. I was worried about rust and I was right. Most of the rust on the fender side was on the fender itself - along the joining edge and up near the gas filler. Will get a replacement fender. I need to clean up the joining edge on the tub to see if it requires repair - I think it may be ok, however there is a spot up high behind the gas filler and the top section of the fender joining panel that will require repair. Biggest surprise was the rust up front after I removed the bumper. I am in for some rust repairs with this car now. I will remove the gas tank next but I think it may be time to pause the rest of the work and focus on rust repairs. I may still finish the suspension work so it can be taken to a shop but I have more thinking to do - it will most likely need to be removed again for repairs up there - especially if suspension pan needs to be redone. I have never done rust repair before. I think I may cut the areas out, buy new panels and fit them so that all I need is someone to weld them. A lot more thinking to do.

Oh ****! Sorry to hear that. Press on man. These cars are worth it!

^for sure! The reality is I purchased this car because I wanted a project. I will admit I was hoping to avoid a lot of rust repair but I was looking for a project so I anticipated work. These old pre-galvanized cars all have rust that has either been repaired or need to be repaired. I guess the one good thing is I will know what was there and how it was repaired. A lot of pretty lipstick cars out there with these old longnoses with questionable work. One step at a time!

^i think you might be right. Maybe some glass as well. The rust on this car is weird. The doors are in great shape - no rust in the bottoms. Most of the panels lacked the surface rust bubbles I saw on so many of these cars. The floors/belly( including pedal area), longitudinals,jacking points, kidney bowls and even passenger front all look really good - even the battery boxes look very good? Strange, inconsistent rust patterns.

^car was believed to be originally CA car then spent time in WI and MI - neither great places for old cars, but supposedly wasn't driven much by owners there. You are right about the rear seat buckets having more to do with a failed window seal and probably washing the car. The more I think about it, it does make sense about the driver front being rusted as there is evidence that fender was damaged at some point - the fender seal probably wasn't great from then on. A lot of the rust up front, including why the suspension pan was replaced previously most likely has to do with battery acid - especially if this car sat for a long time with bad batteries in the past - must have leaked outside of battery boxes instead of back in towards the boxes. Oh well, like I said and you shared with your car, they all have some rust. I agree with your comment/tip about washing cars

With the discovery of additional rust issues up front, I have decided to focus a little more on restoration - although much of what I have been doing to this point has been restoration vs. making this car a hotrod. So, knowing the car may not be on the road soon, I have begun to further strip the car and have a big garage sale on Pelican. My car is looking like it was left parked in south central LA -- it is up on blocks and mostly stripped. The interior is mostly gutted now, sans the dash/instruments and the headliner. I sold all of the items that I will be replacing in this build - including my original steering wheel, the original seats, the front bumper, the front driver fender, front M calipers, the original washer bottle, trumpet horn and jack (things that will not matter to me for hotrodding), ducktail spoiler, and more. I had already sold the entire rear interior a couple months ago, carpet, the sugar scoop headlights, original oil tank, rear bumper corners as well as the A/C system. I still have some suspension pieces I need to sell and get out of the garage/my dining room - yes, my dining room has been a storage/staging area for several weeks now - I think it is cool, but the wife might be getting a little tired of it :) All of this is being invested back into the build - many of the replacement parts for items mentioned have been purchased and waiting to become part of this hotrod.

So, continuing the parts stripping and selling - today I removed the exhaust system. The car has headers now, but I have decided I will go with SSI's. It also has the stock muffler, but I will be going with the R/GT3 style centered dual outlet. I have done this job before - many years ago when I put SSI's on my SC. I sprayed PB Blaster on the studs/nuts a couple days ago. Today I took my time and used a torch to heat the exhaust studs in order to ensure none of them broke during removal. After heating, I would add some pressure with my socket wrench and if it felt too tight still, I just added more heat. With the right amount of heating, these things came off very easily. I removed every one of them without breaking one - however, the car already had 3 broken studs in the past - someone drilled out most of the broken stud and used a shorter bolt in their place and one of the threads on those bolts look like crap so it looks like it was forced in there and cross-threaded (see photo). It pisses me off to see people who don't take the time to do things right - this will cost me a few more bucks when I send in the heads as part of my motor build. I hope to get to the gas tank next weekend. I couldn't get my teenage son out in the garage this morning (too early for him haha) so my wife came out to assist me lower the exhaust assembly off the car to the ground.

So I had to share this with anyone who is actually following this crazy build thread. My son just got his learner's permit. He needs time behind the wheel and has been my personal chauffeur lately. I figured I would get a head start on removing my gas tank (this weekend's plans) by siphoning the gas out of the tank. I had my son drive me to Harbor Freight for their $7 siphon special. Right before we left I found this killer deal on a set of SSI's on Pelican. I am never the first guy to respond first to killer deals, but today I was. I share my interest with the seller (first guy!), then my son and I are off to get the pump. We get home - I still forget about the SSI's - I head to the garage and get to work. I have my two gas cans and start the process of emptying the tank into these cans. I make a few trips and fill up the tank of the Volvo 240 I bought my son with this gas. Things are going pretty good until the line shoots out while pumping and shoots gas all over my pristine 993. Yes, my 993 was under the '72 while I was doing this work because it has been raining like crazy in SoCal so I didn't back the car out of the garage - in hindsight - dumb. So now I have to back the 993 out for an emergency car wash. I get her cleaned up - finish siphoning the tank out and come back inside to realize I also missed out on the killer deal on SSI's because a few hours passed and several others got in line for them and the seller moved on to the next guy. Ugh - what a day.

oh man I saw those SSI, that was ag good deal and they were gone in minutes.
IBummed you didn't get them.
So when is the motor coming out?
Might as well get that thing going for the refresh while the body work is being done :-)

Thanks - I am going to slowly approach this part of the project. Once I have an idea of exactly how many repairs are needed and the extent, I am going to take a stab at least cutting out and fitting new pieces - maybe just have someone weld the pieces. However, the guy who is doing my buddy's 356 right now is going to be looking for some work soon, so I may see what he thinks/charges. We'll see....

Maybe soon - I will need to make some decisions once I get the gas tank out and fully inspect the front. My problem is that I will have no room for the motor/trans in my garage. I am already maxed for space in my little 2-car garage. It would make an interesting piece in my living room....hmmm...certainly the conversation starter when guests come over!

And yes that was a great deal on those SSI's - Robert (Super90) was 3rd on the list but didn't get them either.

you could always strip the 993 for parts and put the R. suspension and engine into your early car...

I would love to put that 3.6 in there :evilgrin:

Actually, I have been thinking more lately about selling the 993. It is a beautiful car and I enjoy it a lot. However, the values of those WB 993's have gotten crazy and mine is unique in some ways which makes it more valuable than a typical WB 993. It has actually taken some of the fun out of driving it. That is why I am really enjoying this hotrod project - I want something I can really enjoy driving without having to worry about mileage, originality and value so much. Now, my SC may stay with me forever. It is also in great/original condition, but I have owned it for 20 years and it has sentimental value.

Hey Bill,

You mentioned above about SSIs and a GT3 style muffler. I just received my custom street version M&K GT3 from Brian @ RarelyL8 Motorsports and the build quality is amazing as is the weight. Very light. You should check him out.

Here is a link m&K street version

Full disclosure I have not put it on the car yet. It will be a little while.

Hey, Rob. Definitely like the build quality of the M&K and certainly like the fact that it is lighter. An option I will have to consider for sure when I get there. After reading the thread you shared, it did get me thinking about the back-pressure/set up needed for my motor. I am thinking I need to figure out the motor build before committing to the purchase to be sure I get the right back-pressure dialed in? Keep me posted on your experience once it is installed!

My car has an M&K on it. Two in, two out. Plenty of rumble. I have heard some GT3 mufflers on early cars and I am standing pat where I am.

R.

So, the gas tank is out of the car. I had already siphoned the gas out a few days ago. Today, I removed the tank from the car - which was petty easy with the fuel already out.

Here is the condition of the strainer/filter - black and disintegrating
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3f7a2243b5.jpg

The gas tank has some surface corrosion along the front edge. I have read up on the best ways to refinish the tank.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c0fc7e8f1f.jpg

Peeking inside, there is a black substance (most likely old gas varnish) stuck to various places along the bottom. I have read that it is fairly easy to clean the tank out - a few different cleaners recommended from vinegar, ammonia to chemicals.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3b7511a1e0.jpg

So, before we get into to ugly (I will get into that in the following post) - here is the good. Everything was perfect up and around the backside of the tank. These were areas I couldn't really see, so was happy to have no more surprises.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ebd7208cd9.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...46c31ac6cb.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0c50e7f32f.jpg

So up and behind the tank all seems to check out. Moving on to the front area. As mentioned previously, this car had a suspension pan replacement many years ago. Whoever did the replacement didn't do a good job. Not only was the welding/placement poor, but they didn't bother protecting the new metal with undercoating or anything. Once I removed the tank I also realized that they didn't replace the left and right gas tank lateral supports. Both of them were cut off near the battery boxes and just left that way. They welded in some random/homemade pieces under the battery boxes to replace some of this section. All of this replacement metal has corrosion and was poorly welded. The nose section/latch panel will need to be replaced as well.

Here are some photos showing the shoddy work that I am going to begin to remove

Note the lateral gas tank support in this photo - it is cut off about 6"behind the battery box. A piece was welded below the battaery box where the lateral support would normally be.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8a289b3565.jpg

The front of the suspension pan was poorly welded on the nose/latch panel section. The nose section is corroded on the front side and back from when the undercoating was removed to weld the suspension pan in and new protection wasn't added afterward. You can also barely make out the front gas tank support piece that runs on top of the suspension pan between the two battery boxes. It is very corroded and not complete - I am wondering if they tried to reuse some of the old piece when they did this work?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0c7aef8f1e.jpg

Close up of the battery box with the homemade piece under it in place of where the lateral support and front support would be joining.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...063ddb5eee.jpg

Moving on to the driver's side - same story but there is more to come on this side soon (can you feel the anticipation!)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ffe9695285.jpg

This is the left lower section under the battery box. This will be cut out and patched.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f1b3158cf2.jpg

Here is a view of the lateral support on the drivers side. You can see it is cut off and it was also never welded to the new suspension pan!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...61db836a08.jpg

Here is a clearer shot showing the lateral support being cut off. I used an endoscope to look inside there for the condition - there was a surprise in there - I love surprises!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e7d31a5d94.jpg

Here is a photo from my endoscope looking down/inside the lateral support - I found another mouse's nest like the one that I had found on top of the oil tank.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...88e4c76a96.png

Here is another discovery. There was evidence of an accident on the driver's front. The fender had some repairs and the gaps weren't as good and bumper didn't line up as well. Not knowing longhoods very well - I didn't notice this until now..... The accident must have been a hit on the side. The impact pushed the battery box up and in.

Here are a photo showing the damage
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e7f09536b8.jpg

So my buddy came over to assess the areas needing love. Based on his expertise, I have a plan of attack for all of these areas, including the rear seat buckets and parcel shelf (I shared that rust many posts ago) and also the front left fender joining panel. Based on his recommendations I ordered some new tools (ordering new tools is right behind ordering Porsche parts for the fun factor!). My plan is to repair the area with accident damage and remove all of the areas with rust or other issues. I will be dropping the motor/trans for the rear buckets. I will then purchase new replacement pieces and fit them. If all works according to plan, I would then trailer my car to the body shop to have them weld in the new pieces and paint the car.

For extra motivation, I found this thread. My car will look like this one day!
​​​​​​https://willhoit356.smugmug.com/Comp...-Rod/i-9hCTtjB

ok, so you have to love Amazon Prime. The tools I sat down and ordered at 6pm last night while enjoying a beer arrived this morning. So, I anxiously headed to the garage to remove my first rusty panel.

I decided to start with the driver side fender joining panel.

First I removed the undercoating along the edge to expose the spot welds using a wire wheel on my angle grinder. Then used one of my new spot weld drill bits to drill out each weld. I admit that I drilled thru the first two welds (this metal is surprisingly thin), but got the feeling after that and now should be on my way.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8c01d356a2.jpg

Piece is gone - most of the areas around it look good. The exception is at the top near the gas tank filler. There is a small area that I will need to cut out and have a fabricated piece welded in.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3bbdb529af.jpg

This piece had seen better days - a brand new panel from Restoration Design will take its place
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c29eeae369.jpg

One less rusty piece in my car
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b491d6f3b8.jpg

Best of luck on everything going forward with this build!!! Looking forward to following along. Oh what I'd do to have my '72T back...

Sold it way back in 1990.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a55cd75b14.jpg

Love it! Is that Bahama Yellow?

With the fender joining panel removed I could begin to deal with the rust hole on the fender right above. I used my angle grinder with wire wheel again to remove paint and undercoat to see how far from the rust until I found good metal. I drew a rough outline of the area I wanted to cut out, then used my dremel with 1.5" cutting wheel to do a rough cut out, followed by grinding the edges for smoother/better lines. It is hard to tell in the photos, but there is a recessed area on this panel. I cut along the radius of the recessed area. The good news is that looking down in the fender area, there is no rust inside - just the factory green primer everywhere.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ab36b8d014.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6f6f082548.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cd4a41a726.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...87e3e6e1c5.jpg

It had just been repainted when I purchased the car in 1987 and was supposed to be signal yellow, the original color. Wasn't until many years later that I realized the color wasn't correct. I called it school bus yellow. ;) Was a great little ride but a 2nd kid was entering my life and I had to shelve the 911 ownership for a few years.

For some reason, Signal Yellow seems to be a color that varies a lot with repaints - I have seen it as well. The color should have an 'oranginess' to it. Anyway, the color in your photo looked closer to Bahama Yellow to me, which may be my favorite color of all time.

OK, so for those interested in the answer to this question I had asked a few weeks back (will a SWB knee pad fit a LWB), I have been told by multiple people that these will fit. It reminded me to circle back on my thread when I was reading about Magnus Walker's '72 ST build where he mentioned doing this and I could see it in the photos. I am no where near doing the interior of my car, but it is fun to think ahead :)

Started early this morning and I am now taking a break and an aspirin. Spent the morning pounding out the accident damage to the driver side battery box area. I wanted to do this work before cutting out the suspension pan, nose panel and other sheet metal areas so it was still structurally strong enough to take the beating. I am very happy with the results. Needs some minor finishing touches along the panel but the Neanderthal part is done.

Before (look at how far pushed up and and in the battery box was)

After

Tools of the job - that 4x4 took a major beating - but better it than the panel!

Done for today. I was able to use some new tools again - including my new air saw which is so much fun to use. Made several cuts using the air saw and cutting wheels to start removing the various sheet metal parts. I removed the front fuel tank support panel completely as you can see and started cutting out the suspension pan. I may need to get my tetanus shot updated with all this rust ;)

True - and I'm going to be needing several new pieces!

Where did the front end of my car go!! Not looking like much of a 'longhood' at the moment :roflmao:

Removed the suspension pan and front latch panel this morning. Also drilled out the spot welds to remove what was left of the front ends of the longitudinal tank support pieces. Since my suspension pan had already been replaced previously, the flanges were welded up, so I couldn't drill out spot welds to preserve the flanges. Also, there was quite a bit of rust along those flanges anyway so I may need to purchase more pieces from Restoration Design just the use the lower sections - may be cheaper than paying someone to custom make the pieces. Anyway, I still need to clean up the removal of the latch panel - for now I did a rough cutout to get it out of the way so I can drill out and remove the edges that are spot welded.

I am determined to do this right and replace metal that needs to go!

what we really need is a new stiffer chassis in CF that looks like the old one...

just bolt on the susp. & and the powertrain

That would be cool

Gunther works does a 993 body in carbon and there is another manufacturer that does the G body in carbon ,,,their name escapes me at the moment

https://i.postimg.cc/kgQRf4D6/gunthe...fiber-body.jpg

woof!

roof!

ruf!

someone other than Ruff and Singer were doing a G body but for life of me I cannot remember who it was ,,,:banghead:

If I could change the title of my thread I would. Those of you that have been following along know this has turned into a full restoration. Those that haven't and click on my thread probably scratch their heads. No hot rodding here!! ...yet :)

Today I drilled out the spot welds along the seems that attach the latch panel to the fender panel and bumper bracket. There are also some seem welds along there that need to be cut using my 1.5 inch cutting wheels on my Dremel (becoming my favorite tool lately).
I then took a break and started getting estimates for the sheet metal/welding work. I then realized I should know the full scope of the work that needs to be done since guys were wanting to come see it. So I decided to pull the windows to check the channels for the seals. Since I wasn't keeping these old seals I followed the cutout method. Piece of cake. I had my son come help when it was time to take them out so I didn't drop them. It went very easily. Good news was that the channels all looked great! Kind of shocked. What was really eye opening was that both the rear window seal and windshield seal had water in them at the lower corners. Really hard to believe that there was moisture in there since I never washed this car and it has been garaged and dry since I got it at the end of October. All I can think is that the PO washed it before he put it on the truck to be shipped to me. So the water was there for 4 months! Goes to show how careful you need to be with drying after washing these cars and maintaining the seals.

Spent time getting my project a bit more organized and keeping some aspects of the restoration going while I decide how I'm going to handle the sheet metal work (more to come on this later). Here is what I got done:
- took the front suspension pieces, gas tank filler tube, seat rails, front hubs, front signal housings and other miscellaneous parts to be media blasted.
- bagging up my second load of hardware to be prepped and plated. Learned my lesson from the first batch. I am not going to waste any time prepping this stuff myself.
- ordered more epoxy primer and ceramic paint for the parts that come back from the blaster
- finally shipped my Aluminum S calipers to PMB for full restoration and piston upgrade. They told me to expect 8 weeks for the service as they restore these S calipers from customers all over the world. I'm in no hurry as my car isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
- carefully drilled out the rivets from the VIN plate from my discarded latch panel.
- organized parts nicely in the corner of my dining room and the windshield and rear window in my bedroom. :roflmao: I may need to get a storage unit soon for this stuff!

I have one of the best Porsche sheet metal/body guys coming over later today to assess my 911 carcass. Will update everyone later.

Ugly hardware - will come back looking like gold

Did you chase down 3.5" brake spacing S spindles?
I think I'm just going to get the brembo AM fronts that PMB sells. I already have everything sorted and back together, clean, suspension is all new and refinished. I didn't want to bother with these at the time, but I know I'm going to want more heat management at the front end, i know my driving style :-)

The front brakes + a secondary cooler at the 2 things left for now on my list. Oh that and a few minor interior clean up things.

Your car is coming along super nice. I have to see it in person soon. Those Brembos are super cool. Yes, I picked up a set of Bilstein struts so I am good for the 3.5 spacing. I will be doing the secondary oil cooler too at some point.

i kinda regret not, thing is the HD inserts seems to be back ordered? or maybe that's for just boge. anyway, we'll see once i finally get this thing back. i'm not in a big hurry and shop had a couple urgent things come up they needed to work on (like things any 911 person will know about once they are public :-) )

I was lucky to find a decent deal from a guy selling his Bilsteins on Pelican. I then sold my Boge set :)

Andy Elsener (www.andyelsener.com) surveyed my car yesterday. Good news is that he said I was headed in the right direction with my work, bad news was that his estimate to finish the job was higher than I expected it to be. I am sure he is at the higher end of the cost scale as he is well regarded for his work. He is a very cool guy. He spent almost 2 hours at my house looking at the car, giving me pointers and the just bs'ing. Not many people would be willing to do these things. He also told me that I can finish up all of what he called the "grunt work" to save on costs. He is also willing to give advice and help along the way including spending time at his shop. I am going to keep pushing forward with what he recommended. Here is what he said I should do:
- stop cutting until I have the replacement pieces so I can mark cutting lines and check fitment.
- he discussed parts that I need to buy. I am going to be placing an order for a number of replacement sheet metal pieces today or early this week.
- he recommended keeping as much of the original metal as possible and just graft in the sections that need to be cut out, rather than replacing the entire replacement panel/piece. I have several pieces that I will be buying, but just cutting out the sections that I need from the pieces. He said he will be doing butt welding in areas where the pieces need to be grafted and you would never know the repairs were done.
- I need to clean off the parcel shelf with a wire wheel to assess the extent of the rust. This is a specific area where he said I am better off cutting out sections of bad and grafting pieces in instead of removing the entire parcel shelf. He said this is a tough job to replace the entire parcel shelf. My buddy was telling me the same thing.
- I need to use a heat gun to carefully peel back the areas where the headliner is attached around the rear window seal channel and around the parcel shelf in order to examine and prep areas. My headliner is perfect so I am trying to keep it.
- he pointed out where I should cut out the rear seat buckets but again recommended to wait for new parts to come before cutting them out. He also said to remove the motor and transmission as well as the rear suspension - all of the hard work I had done with the rear suspension needs to be undone :banghead: except I can keep the spring plates on to keep them indexed etc.
- his shop has dolly's that my car will need to be placed on once it is ready to be taken to his shop - he is able to help out with this as well. It helps that his shop isn't far from my house.

So I am pushing forward on this project. I am hoping to do a bunch more work to cut back on what I am going to have to pay him or another shop. I do have a couple other shops that were recommended to me - if I decide to call others. My car already had a poor suspension pan replacement and I have so much removed up front now that I want an expert aligning everything up there. He said he sees poor work like my suspension pan all of the time. I may just stick with his shop knowing that they are very good.

you may have to talk to Dave B. (TRE) about putting some pieces in to stiffen the unit body - he did wonders with a raspberry car...

since you are in for many pennies might as well be in for a pound

^ I hear you man.

So I got some work done today. I removed the door window frames and added them to my collection of parts inside my house:)

Then decided to start preparing my car for the motor drop. I removed the air cleaner assembly, the shift linkage, clutch and throttle linkage and fuel lines and all of the wiring connections. Still need to remove an oil line and disconnect the axles. I also removed the cooling tin from around the motor as I am trying to get this thing to fit between my lift rails. It is going to be very close based on my measurements - I mean very close (maybe half an inch - and may need to remove the oil cooler too). The good news is that this should make the motor drop a lot easier since I will just disconnect the carrier bolts and hit the lift button!

Didn't get as much done this weekend due to the Porsche Literature Show Weekend. Took Friday off and spent all day going to various open houses, spent Sat at more open houses and this morning at the swap meet. Saw a beautiful '72 Signal Yellow near completion at CPR that gave me extra motivation.

Anyway, I picked up all the stuff I had media blasted last week. Photo below shows the suspension parts that I prepped and shot with epoxy primer after the photo. I wanted to seal that stuff up before it started to rust again. While the primer was drying, I finished removing the trim around the windows and the door handles. All of the trim has now been removed. Gonna clean all the trim up and see how it looks with some elbow grease to see if it needs full restoration or not.

nice

you can save a few lbs. by selling the cross piece and using the Al version from a newer car

^ I debated the aluminum trailing arms and front cross member - may just stick with stock. The rear trailing arms are really the key upgrade from what I have read - both lighter and stronger - and at the rear of the car. The cross member is lighter but some questions about strength particularly with the torsion adjustments. Anyway, prob sticking stock anyhow.

Well, the tear down continues. Dropped the motor and trans today. It just barely (maybe 1/4") cleared my lift rails. Went pretty smoothly - the wife came out and spotted while the lift went up - managed to successfully disconnect everything except the ground - she caught it when the lift started to go up.

Now I have the access I need to remove the rear seat buckets.

I got a good deal on a set of Bilsteins off Pelican. Needed these to go with my S calipers for the 3.5" spacing. I had them media blasted and I repainted them in John Deer green (according to my research, this is a close match to early Bilstein green). The inserts have low use on them but it will be having them revalved with my Bilstein rear shocks.

Before and after photos

Looking Good!

^thanks!

another nice thing about these struts/inserts is that they are "upside down" with the heaviest part in the best place...

good point about the Bilstien design

Trying to do little things during the week to keep this project moving. I had the hubs media blasted and I sealed them with high temp clear to provide some corrosion protection. Removing the bearing races went ok by using a socket and drift very carefully and I put the new races in the freezer overnight which helped press them in. New bearings and seals are being installed once I pack the bearings with grease.

Looking good.

Do you plan to refresh the engine while the paint/body work is happening?

Have you decided on a direction for the body and paint work?

^ I may. I still am not sure what I am doing for a motor yet. However, I may do things like go thru the MFI. I am not sure yet as I am going to have my hands full with all of this sheet metal work. I think this project is turning into a longer project - I will be making updates to this thread for months - but will have fun doing the work :thumbup:

Finally had time to get out in the garage this morning. Had a little extra motivation to get some work done after going with my buddy to see the progress on his 356. Car was just painted in its original Irish Green and was being under coated when we visited the shop. He did all of the rust repair/sheet metal work himself and did an outstanding job.

With the motor and trans out of the way, I was able to remove the rear seat buckets. After using a wire wheel to expose the spot welds along the chassis, I carefully drilled them out being careful not to drill all of the way thru since I would drill into the hollow subframe sections. After drilling out spot welds along chassis, I cut the remaining circumference using my air saw. I was pretty conservative with my cutting line as I tried to cut out the minimum by cutting up to where there was good metal. I also tried to preserve the seat belt anchors (there is a large backing plate). I figure I can cut more out if I need to, but rather start conservative. If you recall, the passenger side was really bad, with a large rust hole up high on the back panel, so this is why I had to remove more metal on that side. Shot with epoxy primer to protect all of the bare metal until I get back to working on this section. The dark areas that you see in the photos is not rust - it is adhesive left over from removing the sound deadening.

After media blasting the control arms and bushing collars, I shot them with epoxy primer and a 2k ceramic finish. I then installed new Lemforder ball joints with new hardware (although I am going to wait to install the castle lock plates and cotter pins until the arms are on the car and I can really torque them down) and also pressed in new Elephant control arm bushings. The bushings were easy to install with the tools provided, a large clamp and generous amounts of hand soap.

Pull that engine into the kitchen and start a tear down! :-)

Fantastic! Makes me want to tear mine down now!

Guys I am seriously contemplating bringing the motor inside :evilgrin: my wife has been very understanding of all these parts everywhere in the house and it allows me to get small things done after work without going into my packed garage. I have to move cars out when I go to the garage. Once I am done with the parts in my dining room I'm gonna be looking for more to do - maybe the motor!

As I did with the rear signal housings, I refinished the front housings by media blasting and painting. New German seals.

Andy Elsener had recommended that I wire wheel the parcel shelf area and window channel to assess condition. He recommended to cut out rusted areas instead of removing the entire shelf. I did this and found that the window channel and lower window corners were perfect - like not even surface rust. However I found quite a bit of rust on the parcel shelf. Strange - water got past the seals and sat on the shelf but didn't rust out the channel or corners (which are common areas for rust)?? So I cut out the rusted sections of the shelf which resulted in some big holes. Not sure this is going to be any easier to repair than the entire shelf but this is what I was told to do. I am at the point where I need to get Andy out here to view my progress to see if I am headed in the right direction.
Here is a shot of the aftermath. It is a weird angle, as I am looking up at the shelf thru the engine compartment. You see my rolled up garage door at the top. There are areas of glue residue from the sound pad - that isn't rust. Anyway, this will require a large section from another parcel shelf to be grafted in. We will see what Andy says.

More parts media blasted, epoxy primered and finished in 2k ceramic finish. Strut tops will be rebuilt with Elephant bushings.

Look'in good!!

I have had the turbo tie rod kit sitting in the dining room for a few weeks now. Decided to open a beer and assemble my steering rack after work - in my living room of course!
My old tie rods were shot and the steering rack housing was very corroded. I first cleaned up the housing to remove the corrosion. I then removed the two plates to access the bearing and thrust puck to clean out all of the old and tired grease. Also cleaned all of the old grease off the rack. Then repacked/lubed the bearing, thrust puck and the rack. I then installed the new turbo tie rods and Lemforder tie rod ends. It was easier to do this work with the rack on my floor than it was up in the car when I did my SC years ago. I used a large crescent wrench on the rack and a thin head 32mm bike wrench on the tie rod to tighten them up. If you have done this job then you know there is very little space to put a wrench on the tie rod - what is cool is that I bought this wrench for this same job almost 20 years ago when I did my SC! It was waiting in my tool box for another day in the spotlight. Anyway, the steering rack is good to go, but I will install a new steering column bushing when it goes in the car as mine has seen better days.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...92ad6e1866.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...19260a235a.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8d999d29c8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1b21daf5d7.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...345711548d.jpg

Replaced my old tie rods with the turbo tie rod kit last week on my 87. What a massive difference in steering feel!

Turbo tie rods are a requirement on these cars. Have them on my 71, 89, and the 964/993 equivalent on my 91 C2. Massive improvement in steering feel with no harshness.

how does the rack look?

Duplicate

Rack was surprisingly good. No corrosion or evident wear. Seals/bushings were good and the bearing appears good. Everything felt snug and smooth in terms of movement.

I have reached out to Andy to arrange a time for him to come see my car - hoping he doesn't see a hack job! Anyway, it will be a good checkpoint time for guidance on next steps with sheet metal work. While I am waiting for him to come over and as I am running out of parts to tinker with in my dining and living room, my mind is back on the motor. I have gone back and forth on what I want to do with the motor. I want to build on my case for originality (matching numbers) but also because I am trying to stick somewhat with the vintage of the car - these MAG motors are lighter and IMHO compliment these lighter longhoods well. It is also important to me to keep the MFI - again, somewhat for matching to the vintage of the car (and you rarely see these with MFI anymore). I realize it may be cheaper to buy a 3.0 or another newer/bigger motor and store this motor, but I don't have room for storage and already have an SC and 993, so I already get to experience the 3.0 and 3.6 (which are both superb motors), so when I jump in my '72, I want to keep that experience different from those others. Finally, my budget will limit what I can do. So, with budget, keeping my 4R case and MFI, I think I am going to build a 2.5LS motor. This was a consideration for me from the beginning, and recent input on Pelican has me nearly convinced. How appropriate would this be since my car is a '72 and one of the greatest Porsche's was the '72 2.5 ST. I will not have the budget for a full ST 2.5 build, so mine will definitely be MUCH milder. Shooting for 200hp range. I may start going thru my MFI first - I will need to have my throttle bodies modified to larger port size and also bore the stacks. My MFI pump will also need to be rebuilt and modified. Now all of this could go out the window once I know more of the condition of my case!

Andy came by tonight - I cannot say enough great things about that guy, so I am gonna plug his business here again (www.andyelsener.com). He said I am on the right track with my sheet metal work and talked me thru my next steps. The parcel shelf has too much to graft in, so he showed how I can remove the rest of it to where a new piece can be welded in without anyone being able to tell. The challenge with these parcel shelves on the LWB cars is that the front edge is welded between two other panels - then you have all kinds of alignment concerns (decklid hinges specifically), so this job needs to be done right. I have a number of spot welds to remove, some welds to grind off and more cutting to get the rest of that shelf out correctly. He also talked me through how to cut my replacement sheet metal pieces for grafting.

Here are the replacement pieces I have so far:
Rear seat buckets
Front fender joining panel
Front tank support
Front nose sections (just cutting the bottom section off the get the flange for the suspension pan)
If you recall, my front driver front fender was shot. Andy had a original Porsche fender in his shop that he removed from a SWB car that someone had forward-dated back in the 70's. The owner is on Early S and restoring this rare and valuable early SWB back to original so his fender found a new home on my car.

I still need to order:
Longitudinal tank supports (both sides)
Suspension pan (this is coming soon)
Parcel shelf
Front latch panel (Andy has one)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a2d009d1aa.jpg

Got another bag o' gold back from the plater. This allowed me to start putting some things back together. I thought I would assemble the front strut assemblies. New bearings and seals were installed in the hubs, bolted new rotors to the hubs, mounted the newly plated brake backing plates to the struts and was ready to attach the hubs to the strut spindle/axle and realized that the axle nuts and thrust washers that I kept from my old Boge spindles did not fit the Bilsteins. The Bilsteins are more robust. The Boge used 16mm where the Bilsteins use 18mm. Darn, I need to order these and couldn't quite finish this job. They look good though :thumbup:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ea0ea6e9cc.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...767a28464e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0b12994bf5.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cd03003e4d.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...786039b5d0.jpg

Clean and shiny ..............:D nice work

These parts look better than new now!

^ thanks guys. They will get dirty again but at least everything is cleared of rust and protected. Ready for the next 47 years!

Ok so this pic was taken just for fun. 21mm torsion bars, with Elephant bushings throughout. Will be complimented with 18mm sway, Bilsteins and S brakes (still at PMB). Everything is basically new in the front and rear end now. Front suspension isn't going back on anytime soon though!

Oh and I'm sure you noticed no washers. I didn't get any of the typical washers cleaned/prepped and plated this time to save a few bucks. I will reuse those still in good shape or buy cheaply from the hardware store or Belmetric. There were A LOT of washers that I kept in a separate bag.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6bc901954e.jpg

get Elephant hollow t-bars & do it right the first time!

Hey man I would gladly spend more where there is a return. To get the same effective rate you get a slightly larger diameter and really not a lot of weight savings in the end. Good product but IMHO not worth the extra cash. :thumbup:

I tried to buy the Elephant bars (they are sanders bars) and they are / were backordred for months. Ended up with 21/26 sway away and super happy w/ the chassis feel with 18mm sways F/R.

I think I found my motor!
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-porsche-911-35/

Well, one can dream at least :burnout:

Haha. I was totally thinking the same.

I decided to remove the MFI from the motor. This will allow me to make progress on modifying and rebuilding the throttle bodies, stacks and pump while continuing the sheet metal work. I found yet another mouse nest - this one is on top of the oil cooler.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d7958d844c.jpg

The build details of my 2.5 long stroke are starting to come together. With the MFI removed from the motor, I am making decisions for the necessary MFI mods to work with the motor.

I am starting with the pump. I have spoken to Mark Jung (MFI Werks) and have agreed to ship out my pump for the following to accommodate using S or mod S cams and boring my head ports out to 36mm:
- Complete rebuild of the pump and clean and pressure test injectors
- Small fuel flow adjustments for acceleration from idle and cruise and still keep the freeway cruise @ a lean mixture
- Mid and upper fuel flow increased by 25%.
- Minor adjustments to the thermostat for cold starts till warm up.

Mark is a busy guy - I won't see my pump again for 4 or 5 months - but I am not in a rush! Here are pics of the rather dirty condition my pump is in now - let's see what it looks like when I get it back!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1004a6357b.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d003fa4ef6.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9cb09411ce.jpg

CIS Flowtech rebuilt mine. Took 6 weeks.

Question: did you delete your AC? If so any tips on removing lines, condenser, etc?

Thanks

Yes I removed any trace of the a/c in my car. No real tips - just take it all out :thumbup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c9a3aa8b9c.jpg

^very nice - hope mine comes back looking like that.

that was one Mark used for show & tell ~~12 years ago

pic also shows his forearm (!!)

Mark is one of the best! Looking forward to seeing his work personally.

pics to keep you busy until then...


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8c9e2341ff.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e6e43c9ea1.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4f98d76153.jpg

^MFI pump eye candy!

Spent a few hours drilling out spot welds and cutting some seem welds. Good fun - not really. I am done drilling spot welds! Anyway, I was able to get much of the parcel shelf out but stopped until I can get some more input from Andy. This has been the trickiest part of the sheet metal removal for me so far.
Some shots of me destroying more welds
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7d2092223f.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a4f72ff850.jpg

Shipping my oil cooler to Pacific Oil Cooler today. They will ultrasonic clean, pressure test (repair as needed), bead blast and protect with iridite chromate finish. My cooler has 47 years of baked on gunk that includes melted plastic bits from a mouse nest. Let's see what it looks like when it comes back!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c41a481e3b.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...355c2a1cb7.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...82cf84caa7.jpg

Tell us more about iridite chromate ...

I found a little about it but not much on performance or what the -xy numbers would mean (those seem to be critical - did they tell u=you -14 or anything)?

^ no expert here in the different finishes for corrosion protection but that is all it is for. The corrosion protection needs to be reapplied due to the cleaning and particularly the bead blasting process. From what I understand, this stuff is one of the preferred finishes for aluminum. Anyway, it is probably overkill since these guys work mostly on aviation oil coolers - but come highly recommended in the Porsche community (they also do great work on oil tanks). It is all part of their base/fixed cost for their service. the only additional costs will be for repairs if any are needed.

yup - they did my oil tank

- I was just curious -- all the foundry talk recently has aroused my curiosity about all this stuff...

They did very nice work on my tank and cooler. Admittedly, my cooler was in pretty good shape going in. Very happy with Pacific's service

After pics...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4eae0be73a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7c0d2c190c.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...654301b891.jpg

^look great!

it's a shame to put those on the car where they'll be hidden and get dirty

Some of the other shiny bits still show themselves....;)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d1c921bd96.jpg

did Mark Motshaggen do that fan?

^^you show off, Robert! Haha - motor looks great.

Yes he did ! Beautiful work !

it shows!

Now that my MFI Pump has been shipped off to Mark, I have turned my attention to my MFI throttle bodies and stacks. I have been speaking with Aaron Burnham at Burnham Performance. Here are the plans:
- completely rebuild the throttle bodies, which will include new bushings, throttle plates, rods and rod ends.
- bore the throttle bodies to open up the exits from 28mm to 36mm to match what I plan to do with the heads.
- taper bore the stacks to open them up to S specs.

Mark is setting up my pump to match these changes.

Here is a look at my throttle bodies before they are sent off. Just a little bit of carbon build up!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...86ec810037.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a320344b72.jpg

I thought I would give a quick update and share another crappy photo as I will be too busy to do any work on the car for at least a couple weeks. I finally finished drilling out the spot welds holding the rear of the parcel shelf. That sucked. There are essentially two rows of spot welds - one along the body section that is between the lower window and upper decklid - and the other row is along a flange called the parcel shel support bracket (I know this because I need to order one!) You can see the numerous spot welds if you look closely at the photo. You will also see the support bracket/flange is in bad shape with corrosion. I couldn't tell the condition of this part until I removed the shelf. I drilled right thru it in several areas due to it being thin and corroded. So I need yet another sheet metal part from Restoration Design and another part to remove from the car - ugh.

I am placing what I hope to be my final order of sheet metal parts. The suspension pan came yesterday. It almost looks like I can build a whole car with all these parts!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8ff11b87b5.jpg

Travelling thru Europe my wife and I had to stop at the Porsche museum. Awesome experience. Started with having coffee there when we arrived and you can see into their restoration/service shop thru glass walls. Several beauties in there, but the '73 RS caught most of my attention
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cb75d8aff7.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ddf5141b52.jpg

Here are some photos of the museum content. I was inspired by the '72 2.5 ST - looking forward to having my own '72 2.5!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6f8294baf6.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d0def558bf.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e550c13397.jpg

More inspiration came from the use of fiberglass on various parts of the motor trim on the race variants. I will be replacing my standard steel motor trim and standard shroud with parts replicating the authentic fiberglass twill weave made by Sheridan Motorsports.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8544a2de26.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...be8980c711.jpg

Here are some other photos of Porsche history
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c78a4bc0bb.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...73a0588cf9.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c111a40599.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...44c246edbd.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...47e61f0aa7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9eb4600642.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...078a5d386e.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f1525afcb6.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d71dec8009.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a3d7596e99.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f9d9e70755.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f774f38677.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...83a303a731.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c255c64af4.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...589968d46b.jpg

I love that museum. I've visited twice in the past few years, once with my wife on vacation and once again while on business. My wife has a few good photos of me laying on the floor with my head under the vintage racers.

For whatever reason she didn't share my excitement over vintage racing suspension linkages. Strange.

Haha - right, that place is great. We spent time in several places in Europe, but another highlight was cruising at 210 km/h on the autobahn. I needed to rent a faster car to stay in the fast lane though!
Oh and we saw a beautiful conda green longhood cruising thru Heidelberg - cool to see these cars in their native habitat.

I went in here looking for a set of deep 6 and 7r wheels. No luck.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...474601d0d5.jpg

Subscribed

Back from Europe and came home to some goodies.

Here is my oil cooler back from Pacific Oil Cooler. Looks great- they even repaired some denting in the bottom tube.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ed05a5c53c.jpg

No more evidence of the melted plastic bits from the mouse nest
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...018407deb4.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...66caccb822.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0ffae99836.jpg

Great stuff!! They do good work.

Roger at Sheridan Motorsports has made up and shipped most of my RSR style fiberglass engine tin - shot below. He has a couple more pieces to make up for me, which are the two rear pieces for the MFI tin.
He does nice work.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9188fdc8c2.jpg

Very nice. What is the best tool to use to cut out the openings for the intake? Just curious...

I am planning on using my dremel tool. I have small cutting wheels for the initial cuts and sanding drums to smooth out and cleanup the cuts/lines :thumbup:

I'll be interested to hear how long it takes to fabricate your fiberglass engine surrounds. Rumor has it that it's about an 8 to 10 hour job. Please share how it goes and it will look awesome when done!

^Roger turns the pieces around quickly. Most of mine were pre-made in his stock, but he only had the rear tins for carborated motors pre-made. My MFI tins are expected to arrive today so it only took him a couple days to turn them around. I agree that it should look cool - some influence of a 911R and RSR motors. Here is an idea of the look I am shooting for - this motor was built by Mark Jung (also a fan of 2.5 MFI motors):

Capital !

My 911S Alloy Calipers are back from PMB and are looking great. They did a superb job restoring them - even matching the original greenish gold chromate finish that the later S calipers ('72-'77) were finished with. They also upgraded the pistons - which are lighter than the originals.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7f6b2d61ad.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6691c536b4.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...814de8dccc.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...120e7f7127.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...80250875ea.jpg

Wow those look great. I have a set of pmb brembo for t strut calipers coming
my subtle hint of not so stock car continues.
Oil cooler is being installed this week

Nice - this advertisement was enclosed in the package from PMB - looks like they are releasing their own monster calipers that are designed to work with 15" wheels. These suckers look huge! I still lean towards the stockish look that comes from the upgraded S/908 tried and true calipers but PMB continues to hit it out of the park with the various caliper options.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...72b97e9f87.jpg

Huh - I wonder who is making those calipers for Eric?

I recently met Eric. Business seems to be going good for him - it took a few months to get my calipers back and his claim is that they are the only facility in the world doing full resto's on S alloy calipers. Therefore he said he gets calipers from all over the world sent to him. Anyway, good question about the manufacturer - I wouldn't think it would be one of the bigger co's doing this (e.g. Brembo) due to canabolization concerns or simply that they would just distribute themselves - but maybe a smaller shop?

So I am trying to keep my project moving, although I haven't been able to get my hands on the car in a while. I was in Europe for 2 weeks and just slammed at work. The coming weeks don't look any better. I continue to finalize plans for the motor and after speaking with John Dougherty today I think I may have changed plans for my camshafts. I was leaning towards stock S MFI cams but now may be leaning towards DC30 Dougherty Racing cams. The power band is too high and 'peaky' with the S cams (coming to life at 4500). The DC30 sounds like a good match for the compression I plan to run(9.5:1) and will provide more mid range torque and a power band from 3500 to 6500. Seems like a better option for the street. Before I send my money to John, any other thoughts out there?

sounds good - the original grinds were a little limited by technology too rel. to today's - IIRC, it has to do with the ramps

right - i guess they are a more "modern" grind. better lobe centers. the DC30 is similar to the E cam, but with longer duration. you do need higher compression with these, but i was already planning to run the higher 9.5 compression (8.5 wont work well with these cams). i did just shoot a note to Mark Jung to confirm that the specs we agreed to on my pump will still work (I had originally told him i was going with the S cams). Same conversation needs to be had with Burnham for the throttle bodies and stacks (haven't sent those quite yet anyway).

I will be going with JE 87.5 pistons (9.5:1) and LN Nickies cylinders. Just need to accumulate a little more of my 'car allowance' for this investment :) Not cheap but some of the best pistons and cylinders out there.

are you going to get any coatings applied to the pistons?

i dont think so, but let me know if you have thoughts. if you are talking about burning pistons, this setup is designed to run cooler. the pistons are forged and the cylinders are billet aluminum - this setup is designed to run cooler and endure tough forces (e.g. high compression, etc). i certainly need to get the ignition and fuel all dialed in correctly to prevent burned pistons and other issues. i plan on having the machining work (heads) done by Ollie's so i may need to pick their brain more about what i should be doing with this build.

the more i go down this build path the more i am wondering why i am not just buying a 3.0 or 3.2 - this is much more expensive!

Ha!

Well, I did buy a 3.2L but I also hotrodded it - no diesel tractor pump, but PMO carbs (full caveman), cams, twin-plugged, CR ~~ 10.4 or something

I had 3 different coatings put on the JE pistons (in 3 different places) - not at all critical but it was fairly cheap

Sounds like an awesome build! The MFI work is pretty expensive on these things (and the pump is pretty tractorish) - but then again, PMO's aren't cheap! I was just saying I would have gotten a pretty good performance bump buying a stock bigger motor.

I am not planning dual plug since I am going with 9.5 - but I may have my heads done for dual plug since they are going to the machine shop anyway and just plug the extra holes. this way i can always go dual plug if i want to down the line.

i will look into the coatings you mentioned. your build sounds awesome!

if I had it to do over again I might just have built up a 2.7L motor and put a typ 911 tranny in a lightened up '72 body

you are smart to drill the holes for twin plugs now

Have Fun

Yes, a 2.7RS spec motor (or even punching to 2.8/2.9) would be a good way to go, but this would have added several thousand dollars to my build for all of the necessary machine work (i am keeping essentially a stock bottom end and little machine work beyond the heads). Plus, i still would be stretching my 4R MAG case (would be better if had a later 7R case) to do this. In the end, i am opting for a good amount of HP from smaller displacement while keeping my original matching numbers case and good dependability. I should come out pretty close to the 2.7RS stock specs (I believe it was 210hp?) with my build - hoping in the range of 200. A guy on Pelican gave the tip about the dual plug prep now 'just in case' - seems smart.

Dying to do more on the car but not having much time, after work tonight I attached my restored S calipers to my restored Bilstein strut assemblies. Also installed fresh Porterfield R4-S pads. It did require trimming my stock M caliper dust shields to fit these larger calipers. I looked up photos of what the S dust guards looked like and trimmed mine accordingly using my dremel. Not much progress to speak of but they sure do look pretty.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7b797f503c.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...226dd4e643.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b352d2d60b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a8bcaf5a2c.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e8637023d2.jpg

Managed to get a roll of old stock basket weave material from a guy in Austria. This is the perfect size roll for redoing the dash insert. I plan on removing the radio and possibly the fresh air controls, so this roll will be used to finish off the dash for a clean uninterrupted look.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...704ff2f6af.jpg

Holy Moly!! You had to go to Austria?? I need to do that too...

Haha I was just in that neck of the woods. I actually packed extra luggage planning to bring parts back from my trip out there - but came back empty handed. I had visions of Fuch wheels on my lap on the plane back home :)

The guy I got this stock from is on Early S, but in Austria. Was a good price too! But he is out now.

Ok so I wanted to start cleaning up some more parts that have been removed from the car. I started with the fuel console. The fuel filter was probably not replaced in decades as it was really hard to remove from the console. The rubber seal was permanently attached to the console. I had to pry it off and as laughable as it sounds it took a good 30 minutes to get this thing off! When I finally got the filter off it was full of some kind of dust. Anyway, this is another minor update but I was able to disassemble the fuel console and thoroughly clean it and all the fittings. Should have taken a before pic as this thing was a mess. I may throw some of the fittings/hardware in the next bag going to the plater. Need to get a new filter to attach to the console.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...307653dd8f.jpg

Still not much time to work on the car. Actually spending more time marketing my 993. I still may change my mind and take her off the market - but as of now she is for sale.

Did buy this from John at st-classic. Need to finish it. Continuing with an ST/R/RSR look with the motor build.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...94e9ba5c4c.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c64461163f.jpg

That's a cool piece, but I'm surprised the ends aren't gusseted. Thats a known weak spot (despite being RSR clone) :-)

see this post:
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...l#post14002835
and this one:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...l#post13003143

Both cars the tips were cracked at the welds.

^but that would add weight lol!

Interesting. I'll have to read those threads - maybe beefy motors? Maybe solid m mounts?The stock carrier isn't gussetted and I would hope that the power I am planning to run would be ok. Or I just have it done before I have it finished!

"some kind of dust"

was it black?

like the color of a rubber fuel hose...?

No, it was lighter than that.

Very little progress to report again. I did buy an engine stand and am waiting for the proper yoke to come. Once it arrives, I will mount the motor to the stand and start the tear down.

I removed the gauges and will be taking them to North Hollywood Speedometer to test each gauge, replace the broken odometer gear and perform a light restoration on the entire cluster. My T was optioned with S gauges. Here is a before pic:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f5799748df.jpg

So it is a gorgeous Friday in SoCal. For Father's Day my wife wanted to get my 380mm Porsche VDM steering wheel redone, so we took the day off to drive down to San Diego to drop the wheel off with Tony at Autobahn and tour some local microbreweries. Tony is doing a thick leather wrap to the wheel. If you recall, this was literally the first part I bought for the car and it was in bad shape - but the correct Porsche 380 VDM RS style wheel. I had refinished the spokes a while back and it has just been sitting in my dining room lol. Tony will be doing more work for me in the future - one of the best out there. Will post pics when it is done!

Convert the clock to quartz internals.

You'll want this for your wheel. It puts the 380mm VDM wheel at the exact right position. I was lazy and just got a VDM rep from SMC... which looks and feels awesome, but this spacer makes it perfect.

https://www.aasesales.com/products/h6k-f56-100w-105158

^
Yes on the clock. I'll check out the spacer :thumbup:

So, not much progress on the car, but a lot to share. I have given up on trying to restore this car in my garage - I have no space and while it was comical that I took over the dining room and even parts of the bedroom with Porsche parts, the joke is starting to run out (see some photos below of just some of the parts that wound up in my dining room). I have decided to jump in to the deep end of the pool and go all out with this car. In order to free up space and funds, I decided to sell my 993. The 993 almost never got driven and I had several close calls with damaging it while working on the '72. You will see the '72 motor squeezed between my 993 and SC in the photos below and to say space was tight in the garage would be an understatement. I listed it on BaT and had mixed results. I learned a lot thru that experience (not for the faint of heart), and would have done some things differently for sure. The car didn't meet reserve, but the high bidder and I met and after seeing the car he has agreed to purchase it - at a much higher amount than the final BaT bid.

Knowing the 993 would be leaving the garage, I started making my plans for next steps:
- I met with Andy Elsner yesterday and will be sending the car to him to finish the sheet metal work (I did as much as I could). Not cheap, but this car deserves craftsmen to finish the sheet metal repairs. I need to remove the rear trailing arms, brakes, etc that I had restored and reinstalled, and a few more items to get it ready for his shop. Getting the car off my lift and on a dolly is going to be fun. He has some ideas to rig up a dolly to get it off, then move to the standard restoration dolly. I am going to target getting the car to his shop within the next 3 to 4 weeks.
- I have reached out to two painters that are recommended (started talking to Jim East and Mario Lozano). Shops have long wait lists so I am trying to plan ahead for that next step.
- I will continue to do the motor build while the car is being worked on. Plenty of stuff to do, including sending parts off for machine shop work.
- I will also continue sending misc things for restoration and continue with my interior plans.

It is clear that my car will not be back on the road for a couple years - but when it is back on the road, it will be awesome. It will also give me a project to enjoy for the next couple years.

So I found out that I will most likely need to be on a wait list of a year or so for paint. That might not be too bad considering the timing of work that needs to be done prior to this time frame. I have been researching the whole single stage vs. base plus clear approach to painting. Of the first two paint shops I contacted, they both use different approaches. Both shops use only top tier materials. One shop only uses Glasurit and would do single stage for my Signal Yellow solid, and the other shop only uses PPG and would do base plus clear. I have read opinions on each approach and understand the base/clear could be more 'plasticy' looking, but you can also control this by the degree you polish the clear. Base/clear is supposed to be deeper and better protection against the elements. But of course, Glasurit single stage is what Porsche used :)

So I have been talking to Mark Motshagen about restoring my fan and fan housing. He comes highly recommended for restoring these things. As you will see below, there is a good chunk of one of the fan blades missing and a sizable crack in the housing. He wants me to drop it by his shop to inspect them more closely - hoping they can be repaired and restored. Mark was telling me that the earlier fans are more repairable (e.g. welding work) due to the higher quality of the materials used - I guess the later fans were made of poorer quality metals. Also, the fan wasn't making contact with the housing which made him feel better that the alternator mount hadn't moved as a result of the crack. I will report back after Mark has assessed the parts.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...53e661ded1.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8c6d61c434.jpg

Mark is the man to go to for that!! Beautiful work. He will repair it if possible. You are in good hands.

Been very busy with work. Finally had a chance to go see Mark today. Spent a couple hours just chatting with him - good guy. Unfortunately my fan and housing are beyond repair. I also need to address stripped threads on the alternator shaft. Bummer!
On a more positive note, got a good deal on a set of original SSI thin flange exchangers with the MFI thermostat port today :thumbup:

Was afraid even Mark couldnt make that repair. Bummer.

Really happy with my SSIs and the Dansk Sport muffler. Much better than the previous set up. Might be better out there, but Im good with this.

Wanting to so my front suspension bushing, but work has absorbed all my time lately....

Yes, Mark is a master and pointed out the issues that weren't even obvious. At the end of the day, it was too far gone, but he may be able to source a good donor set to referb -- his work is amazing. These early fans are hard to find in repairable shape. He does work for high-end shops, museums, etc. I am lucky he was even willing to see me - he is turning away work from individuals like me (although I mentioned your name, Robert). I enjoyed looking over his very original/survivor pastel blue '71.

I have a redone front suspension sitting in my dining room haha. I'm sure you will get to yours in time - at least your car is driveable to enjoy in the meantime.

I have the SSI with Dansk Sport setup on my SC and have loved it as well. I still need to figure out what muffler I will be doing on this car, but have time to figure that out :)

I am hoping my 993 gets picked up by the seller's transport truck in a couple weeks and my '72 gets into Andy's shop for sheet metal work by the end of August. I too have been very consumed by work. Mark did make me feel better about pushing forward on my project - he reminded me that a signal yellow '72 is worth it :)

I really like SSI + sport muffler. Just sounds 'right'

you have more patience than me on these things :-) The end result will be worth it. It's going to be a very long road!

Oh man I am trying to have patience. This project has gone no where near the direction I planned. Trying to remain positive. I was warned by a buddy that the deeper I tore into the car the more stuff I would find - he recommended driving it and doing repairs over time. He was probably right. You start looking for rust or stuff to fix with these cars and you will surely find it!

Got my 380mm VDM steering wheel back from Tony at Autobahn - looks a lot better than it did when I bought it :thumbup: Tony does good work - I will be working with him on other interior work on my car in the coming months.

When I bought the wheel:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a61cf11208.png

After:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ea869312f5.jpg

Tony's shop - always full of cool stuff. Last time I was there, he had a real 993 RS.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9e55217760.jpg

Beautiful wheel !

And, yes, Signal Yelllow....one of my very favorite colors....even more than my Albert Blue.

Your wheel looks great. Tony does awesome work. Patience got best of me and I bought a reproduction of that wheel.
Remember to grab that spacer, it's NEEDED (and I'm not tall!)

Yes, you go looking for trouble you'll find it. Even though my car was torn down and stripped and built up to a nice 'driver' standard, I KNOW there are demons hidden away. But driving them is the fun so that's the plan. Its hard as I have massive OCD issues...!!!

My lightly used SSI's arrived safely. Very happy with them. I saved a few bucks over new but also wanted the originals (vs Dansk) although I have heard for the most part Dansk kept the same tooling,etc when they purchased SSI. Not sure if this is true or not but I have read that the Dansk did cut some corners (e.g. spot welding flanges) and might be made overseas (China?) but either way i got a good deal on a lightly used set of made in California SSI's. They are so pretty that i may try to convince my wife that they would make good artwork in the house for the next year or so :roflmao:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0816949c12.jpg

Finally got out in the garage today. With my 993 no longer in the way (I will miss that car - but it was a good 5 year run) I could complete the dissassembly of the car to get it ready to head to Andy's shop for the sheetmetal work. Should be in his shop by the end of the month.

I had to remove the trailing arms that I had restored and reinstalled. I also removed the pedal assembly, the clutch cable, the gear shift assembly and the shift rod. Removed the master cylinder. Removed the e-brake assembly, the e-brake cables and the pull heater cables. Removed the passenger side front fender, the aluminum door sill plates, the dash pad cover and most of the dash knobs/trim/glovebox.

I wanted to examine the tunnel, the area around the pedal assembly the passenger side inner fender area, the cowl/dashboard area under the dash pad all for rust. Andy will do a full examination, but this will give him a head start.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4cd9ecf169.jpg


- The dash pad will eventually go to Tony at Autobahn when I have other interior pieces to bring to him.
- I am going to restore and rebuild the pedal assembly - upgrade to bronze bushings.
- Rebuild the master cylinder or maybe upgrade it (I need to research this to see what direction to go).
- Restore the e-brake assembly. The plastic piece that attaches the throttle pull was completely disintegrated and in pieces in the tunnel.
- Replace clutch cable with new. I also have great access now to replace all of the fuel lines.
- The car had a short shift kit which shifted pretty nicely but I will be going a different direction. Not sure what direction but I have a couple ideas - both totally different directions.

The good news was that the peddle assembly floorboard area is in very good shape - this is an area known to rust.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...036b84cd70.jpg

The tunnel was also in good shape - no signs it rust. However, this was yet another area where mice were living - they drug all kinds of crap into the tunnel. Surprising I haven't found a dead mouse with all of these nests I have found.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e477318428.jpg

The door sill/rocker areas are also in great shape. I was worried what I would find under the aluminum sill trim.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...63987d4a72.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6adb4fa4a8.jpg

Unfortunately, when the aftermarket a/c was installed in this car, someone hacked a huge sloppily cut hole from the passenger footwell into the smugglers box. Will have Andy fix this eye sore. At least the smugglers box looks to be in good shape (just a lot of dirt and crap at the bottom) as these are also areas for rust.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c3b9fbc987.jpg

The passenger fender joining plate is in much better shape than the driver side was (it is being replaced) but there is some surface rust up high in the same areas where I had to cut out a fairly large area on the driver side. I don't think it will need a repair- just remove the surface rust and treat but we will see what Andy says. That area up there is natorious for rust as the tires throw wet muck up there and it just sits up there accumulating over the years and retains moisture. There is light rust along the area where the fender bolts on - hopefully just surface corrosion.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...75edb0f0cc.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f4ab087ac4.jpg


I did find a small area of rust under the dash pad on the passenger side. I will have Andy fix this. The driver side was good and the window channel and cowl look very good.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...32108345b7.jpg

Looking forward to having the rust all remediated and back in my garage for my next phase of the restoration.

Going to be awesome.

Thanks :thumbup: I just wish it would be done sooner!

Making good progress !!!

I hear you, it never goes fast enough....

I'm stalled on some smaller projects for now. Business is the main focus at the moment. And, the 100-degree temps mean that I drive the car early morning and then get home, park it and get into some ac. The eight to 12 hour days or wrenching on the weekends are going to have to wait...

^. Understood. Work has been crazy for me as well after stepping into a new role. At least you decided to do small projects so you can still drive it!

Continuing to free-fall down the slippery slope, I am also removing all of the throttle linkage from the tunnel to replace the ball ends, bushings and coupler. The ball ends on the linkage all have 'play' in them, and there is no sign of the 3 plastic bushings for the linkage - they have literally disintegrated! I didn't even know they were supposed to be there until I was researching. I was also reading the stories of guys having that throttle coupler let go when on a road trip - I need to avoid that experience.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...01ff23026e.jpg

I see the rubber surrounds for the lines in the cluster area has popped out just like mine did.

BTW, Al trailing arms are stiffer & lighter...

Yep I saw that too. I will pop them back in after I replace the master cylinder. Popping the lines out and into the m/c is a huge pain in the butt so I am sure those lines are going to move around some more when I am fiddling with the stupid rubber grommets in the m/c! Oh and it looks like I have a bunch of research to do on the m/c. The new ATE's are supposedly not as good, hard to find rebuild kits and there are differing opinions on upgrades (e.g. upgrading to the later version with larger bores). Need to figure that out - but have time lol

You are absolutely right about the trailing arms. I am committed to those bulky steel ones for now as I have all new bushings and bearings pressed in.

I did just sell my bulky original starter to go with one of those lightweight high torque versions. Saves almost 9 pounds! That original starter is super heavy!

My car had 14" Fuchs on it when I bought it. I am returning it to 15" wheels. From the very beginning of this thread I said I planned to run 6" wheels up front and 7's in the back. Was originally thinking "deeps" as they look great. I also like the staggered look - it is a Hotrod after all. To keep the staggered look and also maintain close to the same sidewall thickness as the stock 185/70 (which is 129mm) I am thinking of running 215/60 in the rear. I understand that the sidewall thickness is also ~129mm in this tire size (ratio of the width).

Like everything with this car, I am trying to balance between original and mod. For mods my approach has been to to do things that are easily reversible. So for wheels, I just picked up a pair of date matching 1972 6"s that I will run on the front and am now faced with what to do for the rear. The fronts are obviously the "flat" 6's but this will actually help with the staggered look, I will have at least 2 correct/date matched for the car and I can avoid this whole safety bead thing (may not be an issue but want to be confident in the mountains and canyons around here). I am looking at the 7R wheels from Maxilite for the rear. I saw a car with flat 6's up front and deeps 6's in the back and liked the staggered look. Plus the 7's will allow me to go up to 215 tires. I believe by going with the right spacer size (7R offset requires spacer) I can avoid rubbing on the fenders (burning paint up high) with this tire size. I can run the stock 185/70 up front and this stagger setup should work.

I will be doing an RSR finish to the Fuchs.

I may scrap the idea of 7's in the rear and get another set of date matching 6's and run the same tire sizes all around but I have time to figure this out.

So, anyone running this setup out there that could share photos?

I always ask myself: "What did Porsche do for the RS?" ...

Good point. That is the setup on the RS I believe - with the exception of not using the deep 7 version for rears.

^^ yes. Rs did have flares though.

Are you planning to flare your car in the rear?

i was considering doing a 7R innthe rear of mine with a 215 but having spent way too much time and $ squeezing max rubber on my RS and 964 i scrapped the idea. It seems... it may fit. But these cars are literally all different and setups are highly variable and i just saw too much conflicting info to want to chance paint burn in my car.

So it may work. And yes staggered looks great. But. It may not work.

A buddy had later 15x7 on his square and it worked with lower profile tires.

^everything I have read says that the newer 15/7 will rub up high with 215/60 tires but the 7R may be ok but need to confirm. The offsets are quite different on those two 7"versions so I think it will come down to the spacer used (spacers have to be used on 7R's anyway).

Yes but again it’s all setup. Keep in mind 7r looks from outside like a deep6. They added the width on inside, that’s why you have to run different spacers depending on width. 7r Prices aside which are silly!

There are a bunch of threads on this on EarlyS I’m sure you found....

heres one with some visuals too

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-7r-fuchs.html

^thanks for the link! I have been searching around and getting partial answers. It is all about setup - sounds like I need to find the right spacer size to get enough clearance from the trailing arm bolts and inner body, yet not push it too close to the outside fender flare.

Yes I did know that the extra inch is inside - really looking for the 7R for this wider tire. The deeper appearance from the outside does give a staggered look when paired with flat 6's up front although subtle. The tire sizes will also add to the staggered look - but this assumes I can figure it all out!

Bill,

I’m running deep 6’s in front and 7r’s in the rear, with the 185/215 setup with CN36’s. I have had zero issues with them. We had to use spacers ( I want to say like 5 or 6 mm, but I’d have to check to be sure) and also had to grind down one of the spring plate nuts for clearance.

I love them and am glad I went that way.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3f5b9df49.jpeg

^looks fantastic! You car looks awesome - I may want more details on your specs. If there is any chance to get the measurement of the spacers please let me know. No rush at all.

Will do, though after a day wiring my new garage and a couple of beers later, not now. Will do tomorrow.

^thanks! seriously no rush. Speaking of beers, I had some great craft beers while in Bend last week. You have good stuff in the Pacific NW :thumbup:

Ok, I lied, I had to check...:rolleyes:

It looks like it’s 6.5mm, and that sounds correct to my memory.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a0978e434.jpeg

Awesome thanks!

Where in Bend did you go? I love Mcmenamins there, and Deschutes Brewery is a great tour. They have a pedal brewery tour which has a bike with like a dozen or so seats there too, which I gotta do one of these days. Fun town.

They have 18 breweries there -crazy for small town. Went to Deschuttes, 10 Barrel, Immersion, Cruz, Sunriver, Bend, Mt Hood. and another I can't remember the name. Were all over the state - not just Bend. Saw the bike tour - looked like a lot of fun.

Disassembling the motor. The pressure plate is aluminum. I have been trying to confirm if this was stock back in 1972 for the T? I see 3 different part #'s in the PET, but they don't show differences. I see that there are two options available today (cast iron and alloy), however, I am surprised that my T would have this on it unless all of them did back then? The aluminum pressure plate is more than twice the cost of the cast iron and referred to as the "sport" version when I checked Pelican. It shows Sachs part# 3032015399. It looks like it is in good shape and reusable - I watched a YouTube video of Steve Weiner showing how you assess the condition. Maybe it was installed at some point in my cars life and is not the original pressure plate. Oh and this thing is very, very light!

update - I should have noticed this sooner. The clutch disc is the rubber center type, which was used in the later 915's (I believe the 911SC), so my car must have had a clutch job at some point and they used the Sachs aluminum pressure plate when they replaced parts.

You definitely want to ditch that rubber center clutch... I've had so many Porsche(as in porsche parts from porsche, not Sachs OEM) pressure plates fail that I personally would just replace it new ...

I'm in this debate right now on clutch package for my car, I have a few options I've gotten from the shop, I have a steel setup in there now pretty sure based on pictures I have of disassembly, and it's so light and easy to work the pedal... but I think I'll need something with more clamping power based on the motor.

Definitely going to ditch that clutch disk. Will most likely go with stock (non-rubber center) disk as it was used with the RS and I am gonna have similar power. Debating the flywheel though - lightweight - hmmm?

Exciting update to share. As you know, my car has been disassembled and sitting on stands on my lift. Well, this made moving my car to Andy's shop a challenge. He stopped by earlier in the week with dollies but they weren't going to work with the width of the lift rails and other issues.

Andy came back over today with a new plan. He modified one of his dollies and brought some very tall jack stands. Success! The car is now resting on a dolly which will be loaded onto a trailer headed to his shop on Saturday. Feels good to be at this stage of the project. Oh, and I had to order up the rest of the replacement panels that I hadn't purchased yet. I ended up getting a couple aluminum panels to continue with the lightweight goal :thumbup:

Sorry for all of the photos for a minor step in my project - I am just excited to be at this stage.

Here is the dolly he rigged up
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2aa76343ff.jpg

We had to place jack stands under the car and then lower the lift to the ground. The car was floating about 4 feet off the ground on these stands.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4f28407454.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...26317bff82.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ea9dd83451.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a79d426426.jpg

Lift was lowered so we could slide the dolly under the car resting on the lift. Then we lifted the lift up so we could attach the dolly to the car.

Here is me, my son and Andy moving the dolly under the floating car. Of course my son has no shoes on - typical beachside kid always shoe less. Could have lost some toes! Didnt even notice until I looked at this photo.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...942db5a86a.jpg

Dolly attached, raise the liftt to remove the jack stands and now she sits on the lift waiting until Saturday.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c85aa6f326.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...599930b9b4.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...96b369cc36.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...03a40360eb.jpg

Super clever idea

She has now been relocated to her new temporary home. Loaded on the trailer quick and easy and made a short drive to Andy's. My car is the least valuable car in his shop - probably by far lol

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3a9b7b7d21.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e365490bb4.jpg

Now that I have room to work in my garage, I started to tear down the motor. I was able to remove the top end and am now close to splitting the case - maybe I'll split the case next weekend.

I was ready for the job. Already had the stand, correct yoke and some special tools - particularly the tools to remove the camshaft nuts. Removing the camshaft nuts was a pain (tightened to 110ft-lbs) - my son held a socket wrench with the special P202 camshaft socket using a long cheater bar for leverage and I had my own socket wrench also with a cheater bar using the giant 46mm crowsfoot required to remove the nuts.

Removing all 12 of the rocker arms from the cam towers wasn't too difficult, but time consuming. Slid out the cams and removed the cam towers. Moved on to removing the heads. I sprayed pb blaster on all the head studs to help remove the barrel nuts without snapping any of the head studs. The nuts were rusty and tight but I was able to remove all of them without damaging the head studs.

Slid out the cylinders and removed the rods from the crankshaft. Moved on to removing the rods from the pistons. I was able to remove the circlips fairly easily but the wrist pins didn't want to budge much so I heated the piston domes and they were very easily tapped out.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...30cdde9dae.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b25586a424.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5817d7432e.jpg
After heating the piston domes for just a couple minutes, I was able to tap out the wrist pins very easily using a small socket and rubber mallet.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fb90d41621.jpg

I will be reusing my original MFI heads. They appear to be in good shape, but Ollie's will inspect them for cracks and condition when I send them to be 'enhanced' :thumbup:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f4a6c083da.jpg

Here is what's left to take a part!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...44ac154723.jpg

Do you have any history on the motor? Was it running?

whats your plan?

ill post a build spec in my thread i next week or 2. Going to start tear down in about a week to get the case and other bits to Ollie’s. Not sure who I’ll have do the heads yet as they will be worked significantly. I’ll probably be using only 1/3 of the donor engine lol.

^ The motor was running just fine - didn't smoke and had good oil pressure. My car had little history/records so not much is known about it. I posted some photos below which show some strange wear on the pistons and cylinders. Not sure what caused this. The cylinder seems to show evidence of moisture damage - maybe from sitting so long unused? The pistons show strange wear on the sides - maybe the cylinders overheated and became out of round? I am not a motor expert - I am learning as I go. Hopefully people following this thread can appreciate an average garage do it yourself-er guy working on his car and learning through the journey. If someone knows what might have caused this, please chime in. Good news is that I am not planning to re-use the pistons or cylinders for my motor build. I plan to reuse the crank, rods and case for the most part.

Here are the basic specs that I have worked out to this point:
- Sticking with a '72 ST theme, by going with a 2.5 build
- Keeping stock, numbers matching case
- 87.5mm LN Engineering Nickies aluminum CNC billet NSC-plated cylinderswith forged aluminum JE Pistons
- 9.5:1 compression
- Dougherty Racing Camshafts DC30 grind. I spoke with John Dougherty and landed on these cams as I am looking for strong power band between 3500- 6500. Didn't want a 'peaky' motor that only came alive >6500, especially since I live in SoCal and have lots of traffic to deal with lol. The S or Mod-S grinds sound sexy and are if you are always running in the high revs (track?), but just not practical for me.
- Bore throttle plates, stacks and head ports to 36mm
- Increase flow from MFI pump to match motor specs - courtesy of Mark Jung at MFI Werks

Should be a great period correct motor that will be reliable and balanced enough to not have to flare out the fenders and beef up everything else to handle more power. Also want to make sure I don't overbuild my 4R mag case. Right behind the pistons/cylinders, the most expensive part of this build is the MFI work, but it is worth it to me as it will scream 70's hotrodding :thumbup:

Here is the unusual wear on 3 of the pistons - from what?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...988a873208.jpg

Check out this cylinder - is this from moisture sitting in the cylinder?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...16779054a3.jpg

Very nice.
Piston slap? I’m not sure. Does look like corrosion in the cylinders.

Mfi is expensive. My car has carbs Italian Weber’s. Runs pretty well. But. Funny thing a full efi setup is less expensive than mfi... that mfi howl tho!

im going period but not period :-) for mine.

Target compression will be about 10.5:1
will Use nickies
pistons rods cams custom
Crank likely worked stock
heads likely keep and modify extensively.
Keep redline about 7500 even tho it will spin to 8 supposedly the crank flywheel bolts become a weak point.
Lots of crazy ideas coming from the shop ....
gotta keep it on budget as it’s very easy to spend stupid $ on these

Im looking for 250 crank or so and should be doable. I think it’s good for a skinny car on 185 tires

^ sounds awesome :thumbup: Your 7R case is definitely a better starting point for that build than my case would be. You can't go wrong with EFI and with 10.5:1 it makes more sense for dual plug (I wouldn't get much from dual plug with my build so not doing it). I will have to check it out when it is done - my car will most likely still be in pieces :)

I may need to continue to lighten my car up more to make up for the HP difference - I am shooting for 200.

What a great hobby :thumbsup:

MFI is like a divorce; expensive, but worth it if you need it.

Ha too funny. I think just getting the car going with MFI is expensive, then I need someone that can maintain it for me. I may need to go to Callas or some other shop that actually understands these things still (expensive tools for MFI) - like the 356 4-cam motor, seems as though the knowledge of some of this older Porsche technology is fading. I guess MFI will be the expensive gift that will just keep on giving haha.

Marco at TLG is brilliant on mfi. There are others callas is great, if not.... very expensive.

I have a shop here in OC but it is very small and very hard to get into. Let’s chat when you get to that point.

understwnding is once mfi is setup it stays in pretty good tune.

TLG is another great shop. Awesome - that sounds good.

Split the case today. Took longer than I expected as I kept patience and avoided the temptation of sticking in objects between the halves for prying. Instead I used my rubber mallet to tap around and did pry gently in a couple areas where I could wedge between bolts (not the case half seams). Finally separated after a lot of patience.

At one time I debated not splitting the case or rebuilding the bottom end. Based on the wear of other parts removed earlier, I was committed to splitting the case and I am glad I did. There is a decent amount of wear on the crankshaft and intermediate shaft bearings.

Case halves (3R/4R halves - I read this was typical in the early 2.4's and mine is very early), crankshaft, intermediate shaft with oil pump and timing chains.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b47b0c347c.jpg

Crankshaft bearings showing some wear. Some worse than others.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4a2b002ea1.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3b08fda560.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...260bacf433.jpg

Intermediate shaft bearings are very worn - down to the copper on one.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...91a4edff39.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1fbb3a11b3.jpg

Crankshaft looks ok with a quick glance except for the end where the nose bearing rides. I will let Ollie's determine condition. May upgrade oil pump.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a7f3a10966.jpg

Close up of the end of the crankshaft

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e42a0f4b6b.jpg

Others have chimed in with another machine shop option:

Engine Machine Service "EMS"
827 W. Olive
Inglewood, CA. 90301
310-641-7019
Talk to Bill or Dick

They seem to have good reviews as well.

Another is

Competition Engineering
Our hours are 8-5, M-F (PST)
Saturdays by appointment only

Phone:(760) 379-3879
Fax:(760) 379-4517

Shipping:
2841 Fulop St.
Lake Isabella, CA 93240

Yes, I knew of them. They are good as well. Good to post this stuff for others :)

I stopped by to drop off more sheetmetal parts at Andy's shop today. There were a couple pieces I hadn't ordered yet - seems like half the car is being replaced with new sheetmetal now lol

Here is the list of new sheetmetal I had to purchase:
Front latch panel
Front suspension pan
Lower flange sections below both battery boxes
Front tank support
Left and right lateral tank supports
Both rear seat buckets
Rear parcel shelf
Rear parcel shelf support bracket
Both rear bumpers

Anyway, I took a couple photos of the car although there isn't much to share quite yet. Most of the work that has been done since the car arrived at the shop has been to clean up my cuts, remove one additional piece I decided not to remove (was tired of drilling out spot welds lol) and prep the areas for welding (e.g. remove under coating and grind surrounding metal).

When I arrived today they had set up the suspension pan jig (make sure everything is aligned perfectly) and started fitting parts. Even though this doesn't show much work, I wanted to post some photos today!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6972cf06ec.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...885e83d9f3.jpg

Do it once, do it right. Just close eyes as you write the checks :-)

Haha right

This thread is causing me to have flashbacks!

I'm sure that's true. I think most of these cars suffer from rust in the same places. Andy said my car was 'average' when it came to rust issues. Part of purchasing a longhood I suppose!

My car did have a very poorly done suspension pan replacement which is causing more work up front than if it had been left alone. Andy said he is always replacing suspension pans that were done poorly previously.

So a magnet will not stick to this :D

I finally obtained an aluminum decklid. It is incredibly light at just 5lbs. Less than half the weight of the steel lid (saves ~7lbs) and lighter than the fiberglass duck tail that was on my car. The plan is to paint the outside and clear coat the inside of the lid to keep some aluminum exposed. I am also going with an aluminum license plate panel. Using these aluminum panels like the earlier S cars and keeping with my '72ST 2.5 'inspired' build.

I need to get this over to Andy's shop so they can align with the parcel shelf before it is all welded in (hinges mount to the underside of the parcel shelf). He will also do whatever is needed for nice fitment and even gaps.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f41e1310c9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a093b43994.jpg

Why Al over FG?

Fair question. With this build I am trying to balance desirability to lower weight and my tastes/decisions for what I feel I will be happy with long term and doesn't steer too far away from becoming heavily modded. Nothing wrong with fg for sure - especially that lightweight fg/balsa hood (so thin and light that it actually flexes inward at high speed!) but I want the car to be easily returned to stock someday if desired and al passes for 'stock' a little more as they were even found on very early '72 S cars. Plus my paintwork will not be cheap so I need to be sure I am very happy with my choices long term before they get painted. All opinion I guess. I will also run a steel S bumper up front and steel rear bumper corners for the same reason. I do plan to replace the rear steel bumper over riders with lighter al versions - they are kinda heavy (and easy to go back to steel someday if desired). Fg would help with my budget as al lid, license panel and steel bumpers aren't cheap - oh well.

Heck, my son may want a project of returning this car to stock someday when I'm gone and it is his ;)

Oh, and my fg ducktail wasn't really light. I'm sure there are more expensive fg lids out there that would be lighter but this al lid is only 5lbs!

Spent some time cleaning up some parts for restoration. I completely stripped the upper and lower Mag valve covers and refinished them with a durable high temp paint. I may go with the upgraded Al lower 'turbo' valve covers, but honestly the original covers I removed do not appear to be warped at all and weren't leaking on the motor. Sticking with the old Mag covers finished in black will keep the motor looking period correct - although I may polish/remove the black from the Porsche script on the upper covers for a nice look. Also stripped and wire wheeled to remove rust on various pieces of engine tin and the fuel pump bracket, as well as the electrical panel and treated with the same high temp black finish. Small progress, but felt good to get something done as I have been very busy with work :thumbup:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9a4431f92e.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...da616032a6.jpg

do you happen to know where I can locate rear fiberglass flaires .. 1978 tubro style

I have mostly seen the steel flares or full steel quarter panels. Maybe try Getty Design or Werks911 for fiberglass?

Made another trip to Andy's shop today to drop off my aluminum decklid, hinges and the water bottle bracket that welds to the suspension pan. While there I took some photos of the car - my car is moving a little more slowly than the high dollar cars she is sharing garage space with - which is ok with me if it is done right.

They continue to fit the front replacement pieces before everything gets welded up.

Front latch panel fitted:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a31451ecfa.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5c8d61eaa0.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5f46a2ad25.jpg

My car had a poorly done suspension pan replacement which lead to needing to cut out most of the flange that connect from the lateral/lower inner fender to the suspension pan. Here you can see the beginning of a section of the replacement flange (will need 2 of these - one for each side) that Andy is making himself. I certainly appreciate this craftsmanship.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8045ab3f07.jpg

Here you can see more of this lower flange being replaced on both sides below the battery box. Just tack welded for now until all of the pieces are fitted and ready for final welding.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4a4b936a75.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...be028907f3.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e6b6d824c3.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b9451825d1.jpg

Thought I would share this. Like counting the rings of a tree! The car appears to have been repainted at least 3 times. To me I see primer, then yellow, then primer, then red, then primer, then yellow and finally primer and red. The car was originally Signal Yellow but its crazy that it appears that someone painted it red, then back to yellow and then back to red again!? This is the one area on the body where I had two rust bubbles - the paint was removed to see how widely spread the rust was, which thankfully it was contained to the two small areas (inner side was also checked). They will cut out and repair these two small rust areas.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...bb4c8c2685.jpg

Took a box of my greasy rusty parts to the media blaster this week. Just picked them up grease and rust free. Time to finish them!

Disassembled my pedal assembly for blasting. I already have the rebuild kit ready to go.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...45e9995304.jpg

The transmission crossmember and motor carrier brackets are ready to refinish. I already have sport mounts and new hardware ready to go.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5b53b5693c.jpg

Had all of my cooling tin blasted. I will do the modification recommended by Bruce Anderson before I finish in high temp paint.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f00fb553d1.jpg

Had my very rusty e-brake assembly and shifter mount blasted.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...97aebc3194.jpg