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I remember following your work - it came out great. Yes, cadmium is difficult to find in CA - in fact, I recently found how difficult it was even to find old school hot tanks at shops in CA - they all have to use biodegradable solvents which they told me are almost worthless for serious parts cleaning. I learned that the zinc is actually silver/not yellow - it is the different chromate finishes (yellow, clear/blue, black) that provide the color. Anyway, I think the SWB cars had more cadmium plating than the LWB cars - but could be wrong. I understand that some of the parts that they used cadmium were actually done with clear cadmium. That is the beauty of this hot rod project - I dont have to go too overboard with originality. I didnt separate many of my parts into color groups - most went in a large bag for the yellow chromate finish - some might gasp at this My other two cars are very original and it can take the fun out of driving them, etc (I am always paranoid that the original paint will get damaged) - where this car will be a blast to enjoy since it is already a step away from original. Dont get me wrong, I am trying to keep a mostly factory look - but not going overboard. My theme with this car is a hot rod someone would have done in the late 70's/early 80's - such as taking parts from other Porsche models, etc - the old school socal hodrodding way
Oh, and one more thing to get you thinking about all of this re-plating stuff -- hydrogen embrittlement -- my buddy who is an engineer mentioned this to me. We should be fine since most of the hardware is marked 8.8 or less - but there are some bolts I may not treat for precaution.
^verrrry nice. I have to get some of those beauties. Tell me more about your setup...
Yeah, I guess you noticed some non-stock bits there! I made some pretty extensive changes, largely thanks to Elephant Racing. I’m not sure if Chuck has kids, but if he does I probably paid for braces on one of his kids!
In the front, I put in RSR struts with raised spindles, polybronze bushings, turbo tie rods, bump steer kit, monoballs, 22mm hollow Sanders TBs, strut braces and sway bars I bought years ago from Smart Racing. In the rear, I put Wevo swaybar mounts in, Swayaway adjustable spring plates, polybronze bushings, monoballs, 29mm hollow Sanders TBs, Bilstein Sports and Smart Racing sway bar.
I just got the car back on the road this fall. With the limited driving I’ve done in it, I’m extremely happy with how it came out. That also may have something to do with the 2.9L mfi lump I have in the back, too!
Yeah, I guess you noticed some non-stock bits there! I made some pretty extensive changes, largely thanks to Elephant Racing. I’m not sure if Chuck has kids, but if he does I probably paid for braces on one of his kids!
In the front, I put in RSR struts with raised spindles, polybronze bushings, turbo tie rods, bump steer kit, monoballs, 22mm hollow Sanders TBs, strut braces and sway bars I bought years ago from Smart Racing. In the rear, I put Wevo swaybar mounts in, Swayaway adjustable spring plates, polybronze bushings, monoballs, 29mm hollow Sanders TBs, Bilstein Sports and Smart Racing sway bar.
I just got the car back on the road this fall. With the limited driving I’ve done in it, I’m extremely happy with how it came out. That also may have something to do with the 2.9L mfi lump I have in the back, too!
Oh man sounds awesome - would love to ride in it to see how it goes! I am obviously doing pretty modest stuff, but who knows if I will want to get more aggressive after it is done we all have the sickness now you will also have to share the details of the 2.9! Did you use a Mag block? I will most likely build my motor out of my 2.4 since it is numbers matching - but have read all the pros and cons of Mag vs Al cases. I was also planning on retaining the MFI although the pump ads weight back there.
Removed the leather wrap and stripped the paint from the 380mm VDM wheel I had bought (see post #13 - it was a piece of crap, but cheap stripped down to metal and treated various rust pits with the PPG stuff. Filled pits with spot filler putty and have sprayed two coats of self etching primer. Will sand and fill as necessary. Will topcoat with 2k ceramic. For those interested in learning more about these wheels (I continue to learn more about the longhoods - maybe most on here already know this stuff), here is an interesting read: http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...eels-THE-TRUTH
Here is the look I am going for (keeps with my theme of taking parts from other Porsche's)
Oh man sounds awesome - would love to ride in it to see how it goes! I am obviously doing pretty modest stuff, but who knows if I will want to get more aggressive after it is done we all have the sickness now you will also have to share the details of the 2.9! Did you use a Mag block? I will most likely build my motor out of my 2.4 since is is numbers matching - but have read all the pros and cons of Mag vs Al cases. I was also planning on retaining the MFI although the pump ads weight back there.
It is a slippery slope, and I would have to say I fell down the whole damn hill! I don’t have my original engine as I swapped it out for a 3L out of an 83 SC back in 1993. A few years back, I got ‘73 mfi block and used that for the build. My engine builder, (Jason and Tony at Squires in Bellevue, WA), had a few ideas and we ended up going with 93mm Nickies, for a 2.9 L displacement. Elgin cams, Pauter rods, Sport valve springs, Ti retainers. The mfi was rebuilt by Mark Jung for this engine. Throttle bodies rebuilt by Eurometrix. All the goodies! Anyway, they dyno’ed this engine at 221 hp at the rear wheels. It is a hoot to drive! Great throttle response, power and awesome noises. I’m looking forward to spring!!
It is a slippery slope, and I would have to say I fell down the whole damn hill! I don’t have my original engine as I swapped it out for a 3L out of an 83 SC back in 1993. A few years back, I got ‘73 mfi block and used that for the build. My engine builder, (Jason and Tony at Squires in Bellevue, WA), had a few ideas and we ended up going with 93mm Nickies, for a 2.9 L displacement. Elgin cams, Pauter rods, Sport valve springs, Ti retainers. The mfi was rebuilt by Mark Jung for this engine. Throttle bodies rebuilt by Eurometrix. All the goodies! Anyway, they dyno’ed this engine at 221 hp at the rear wheels. It is a hoot to drive! Great throttle response, power and awesome noises. I’m looking forward to spring!!
So many of us fall down these hills! Your motor build sounds great - giving me ideas as well since yours was built using a 2.4 Mag case. 221 has to be a blast - very good hp/lbs ratio I'm sure. The cool thing about MFI is that it isn't seen a whole lot anymore, as many cars had it all removed and replaced with carbs over the years - this is one big reason I am thinking about keeping the MFI (just hot rodded/bored/tuned).
you filled metal areas with spot filler putty before primer/paint, right?
did you fill any crack or divots on the original leather before re-wrapping or putting on new leather?
Hey Randy - yes, I stripped down to bare metal using a strip-it disc on my angle grinder - then cleaned the crap out of the rust pits, then treated with PPG - I should have taken a photo of them before - then applied the spot filler and sanded before primer. Two coats of primer drying and will go from there. I don't think I will wrap myself - probably taking it to Autobahn to have a thick wrap done.
Look what I got The correct later style ('72+) "S" ATE Alloy Calipers for my hotrod. These are insanely light. They are basically the same as those used on the 908/910. They are in pretty good shape, but they will be shipped off to PMB for a full restoration - they will look like Rob's then (above)!
Removed the leather wrap and stripped the paint from the 380mm VDO wheel I had bought (see post #13 - it was a piece of crap, but cheap stripped down to metal and treated various rust pits with the PPG stuff. Filled pits with spot filler putty and have sprayed two coats of self etching primer. Will sand and fill as necessary. Will topcoat with 2k ceramic. For those interested in learning more about these wheels (I continue to learn more about the longhoods - maybe most on here already know this stuff), here is an interesting read: http://www.early911sregistry.org/for...eels-THE-TRUTH
Here is the look I am going for (keeps with my theme of taking parts from other Porsche's)
I must ask about your gauges. The Heuer badged clock and the extended range tach are pretty cool. Did they come with the car or did you source them?
12-28-2018, 01:32 PM
My other two cars are very original and it can take the fun out of driving them, etc (I am always paranoid that the original paint will get damaged) - where this car will be a blast to enjoy since it is already a step away from original. Dont get me wrong, I am trying to keep a mostly factory look - but not going overboard. My theme with this car is a hot rod someone would have done in the late 70's/early 80's - such as taking parts from other Porsche models, etc - the old school socal hodrodding way 
I made some pretty extensive changes, largely thanks to Elephant Racing. I’m not sure if Chuck has kids, but if he does I probably paid for braces on one of his kids!
The correct later style ('72+) "S" ATE Alloy Calipers for my hotrod. These are insanely light. They are basically the same as those used on the 908/910. They are in pretty good shape, but they will be shipped off to PMB for a full restoration - they will look like Rob's then (above)!
