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Stripped the driver side rear wheel well today. Also wire brushed and treated the exposed metal like I did on passenger side. Shot with epoxy primer.
Stripped the oil line and repainted it in high temp black paint. Rebuilt the other line using the correct Cohline hose I picked up from 911Rennen and reusing the original fittings (these are much better than the crimp fittings and are harder to find anymore).
Refinished the spring plates in black and mounted the new Elephant bushings to them. I hope the super glue that comes with the kit holds! Also took my trailing arms to a welder to have the sway bar ball mounts welded in. Now I need to press in the new hub bearings and bushings. I decided to go with Porsche trailing arm bushings. Much more expensive than the aftermarket bushings but I have had trouble with aftermarket rubber in the past and don't want to have to replace these things again.
Parts packages have been arriving regularly at my house - feels like Christmas for sure! My new oil tank arrived today from Italy. Also received a meter of the correct cloth covered breather hose and a new Porsche oil level sending unit to drop in to my new tank. Still waiting for fasteners to come back from plater - a bit of a debacle which I can share later when I get them.
Pressed in the trailing arm bushings and hub bearings. Putting the bearings in the freezer trick helped a bit. Finished the arms by first shooting a 2k epoxy primer and then top coating with a 2K catalyzed ceramic paint. Same treatment on the bumper brackets.
Almost ready to paint the final coat of black in the wheel wells. The treated areas were sealed with a 2k epoxy primer a few days ago. I used this internal sealer (below) in all areas that I couldn't get to, including inside and behind the kidney bowls and up in the area that runs along the engine bay. The spray comes with a 24-inch tube that reaches inside the tough to get to areas. It uses phenolic resins and Zinc phosphate to seal the area. Who knows if it works, but worth a try in these areas.
I then shot undercoat on top of the epoxy primer that I sealed the treated areas with a couple days ago. I attempted to replicate the texture/pattern of the factory undercoat using acid brushes. Not quite a match but good enough - I may spray one more light coat to try a little more texture for a better match.
The wheel well areas are ready to paint - then the suspension finally goes back in! Cannot reassemble anything yet since my parts are still at the plater - ugh.
Boxed up my rear calipers to ship off to PMB Performance for restoration/rebuild. Was going to rebuild them myself but the pistons look like crap - rather the best take care of everything. Car had Textar pads on it, but thinking of switching to Porterfield R4-S pads.
Didn't get much done on the car yesterday/today - I am waiting for the call that my plating is done. I did have the rotors spun and ordered more parts I found a great place to get metric fasteners (www.Belmetric.com) - for those looking for a place. I also had to get my 993 emissions check done today - gotta love CA...every 2 years! That is the greatest part of this '72 -- no emissions! My SC passes each year by the skin of its teeth as I do not have a cat on it (SSI's into Dansk sport). It was nice getting the 993 out - I haven't driven it much at all lately, especially with the new project. Gotta love the 3.6
Boxed up my rear calipers to ship off to PMB Performance for restoration/rebuild. Was going to rebuild them myself but the pistons look like crap - rather the best take care of everything. Car had Textar pads on it, but thinking of switching to Porterfield R4-S pads.
You won’t be sad you sent them to PMB. They did my front/rear calipers and they came back looking like NOS parts.
Belmetric is awesome.
Did you do cad (edited) or yellow chromate on your parts?
im sure it is possible but i tried Cad on a few parts for my 89 and they didn’t look right. Yellow zinc chromate was near perfect match for the factory parts.
I cant recall who we used but they did a nice job. We did ultrasonic everything first.
Doing most parts in yellow zinc chromate and a few in clear zinc chromate. I spent a bunch of time cleaning parts and even having some media blasted only to be told I wasted my time. The plater I went with said that plating my parts would have resulted in B or C quality and he provides A (he showed some examples) - sounds like a sales pitch, but what the hell, I agreed to have all of my parts sent to his guy that preps everything and then back to him for plating. I actually learned quite a bit talking to him so I am hoping the extra time and $ is worth it. At least going forward I know to just bring the parts in to him right off the car.
I can't recall exactly but I believe the older cars had cad plating vs. zinc. In my note above I meant cad, I tried a few parts and it didn't look right, i suspect the process just wasn't right. And, it's expensive. Especially in CA. Yellow/clear zinc is the way to go. Should look awesome. Amazing what a little effort on the bolts and bits does.