SOUL | Drone Reduction Sound Symposer Delete
#61
RL Community Team
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Goodwood (06-24-2021)
#63
The midrange sounds are drone, but would also question what, if any, high end sounds it might be removing.
#64
Burning Brakes
I then had it out on the track for a day and it sounded great! Absolutely 0 complaints - and that was living at 6000rpm+ all day.
Again, this is only removing the sounds piped into the cabin. You're still going to hear the high-pitched (and all pitches) sounds from the exhaust out the back
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porscheflat6 (06-24-2021)
#65
Posted this on the other thread, but a repost seems appropriate. The link below and a picture of it as well. This looks like it might hold up to the environment of an engine compartment.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autogr...XM41KDY3NXJ7D6
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autogr...XM41KDY3NXJ7D6
The interior is much quieter now (note that I installed the Soul valved rear section this weekend also). I only paid $ 3.95 for the plug at the local AutoZone. I did have to use use my channel locks to hold the plug in place while tightening the nut, but the plug is securely in place.
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#66
Good to know! So, you just have the valved exhaust and everything else stock?
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Goodwood (06-24-2021)
#68
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#69
Three Wheelin'
#70
Burning Brakes
It is right in my normal "cruising" speed range so I've had to adjust to either cruise in 3rd (3000rpm) or 5th (2000rpm) @ 40mph.
#71
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This is the plug I installed this week. As I reported earlier, I had removed the vacuum line and filled the cabin side 90 degree fitting with expanding foam. Monday I removed the tube, plugged the vacuum line back in, and installed this plug.
The interior is much quieter now (note that I installed the Soul valved rear section this weekend also). I only paid $ 3.95 for the plug at the local AutoZone. I did have to use use my channel locks to hold the plug in place while tightening the nut, but the plug is securely in place.
The interior is much quieter now (note that I installed the Soul valved rear section this weekend also). I only paid $ 3.95 for the plug at the local AutoZone. I did have to use use my channel locks to hold the plug in place while tightening the nut, but the plug is securely in place.
#73
Yes, I believe so. The cabin end was already full of foam, but I just mic-ed the hose, and the are within .01” in diameter, though the cabin end is male and the engine end iss a female connector.
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Westcoast (06-25-2021)
#74
Okay, I just finished the HooosierDaddy version of this. My method was complete removal of that eyesore... errr, I mean Earsore.
Sound improvement is dramatic! Now I'm ready for some headers!
First step Gut the interior of your Porsche, plenty of instructions online on how to access the engine.
The rest is pretty self explanatory. Symposer disconnects by pinching the rings and pulling the connection apart. Pull body clips out of symposer mounting bracket and also remove mounting bracket. The plastic piece that connects to firewall is removed by rotating clockwise about 1/4 turn and it will just pop out. I applied 2 layers of a Dynamat like product to the engine side of the firewall over the hole and one layer in the cabin side. Cut the Vacuum line at a point where I could access it later to reconnect should I ever need to. Installed Vacuum cap and a few wraps of electrical tape (tape probably not necessary but whatever. The drain plug was from a local catchall store. Think I had a total of about $7.50 in parts and $19 for the generic thermal sound matting, but I only used about 50 cents of the $19 purchase. So by my Indiana maths I have $8 in this project
After seeing the level of dust at 6000 miles, I think I should be checking my air filters too!
Sound improvement is dramatic! Now I'm ready for some headers!
First step Gut the interior of your Porsche, plenty of instructions online on how to access the engine.
The rest is pretty self explanatory. Symposer disconnects by pinching the rings and pulling the connection apart. Pull body clips out of symposer mounting bracket and also remove mounting bracket. The plastic piece that connects to firewall is removed by rotating clockwise about 1/4 turn and it will just pop out. I applied 2 layers of a Dynamat like product to the engine side of the firewall over the hole and one layer in the cabin side. Cut the Vacuum line at a point where I could access it later to reconnect should I ever need to. Installed Vacuum cap and a few wraps of electrical tape (tape probably not necessary but whatever. The drain plug was from a local catchall store. Think I had a total of about $7.50 in parts and $19 for the generic thermal sound matting, but I only used about 50 cents of the $19 purchase. So by my Indiana maths I have $8 in this project
After seeing the level of dust at 6000 miles, I think I should be checking my air filters too!
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#75
Forgot, here is the drain plug I used. I bought the brass T-Plug as well, but liked the look of the Red handle. They both worked without tools so pick your poison!
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