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Okay, I just finished the HooosierDaddy version of this. My method was complete removal of that eyesore... errr, I mean Earsore.
Sound improvement is dramatic! Now I'm ready for some headers!
First step Gut the interior of your Porsche, plenty of instructions online on how to access the engine.
The rest is pretty self explanatory. Symposer disconnects by pinching the rings and pulling the connection apart. Pull body clips out of symposer mounting bracket and also remove mounting bracket. The plastic piece that connects to firewall is removed by rotating clockwise about 1/4 turn and it will just pop out. I applied 2 layers of a Dynamat like product to the engine side of the firewall over the hole and one layer in the cabin side. Cut the Vacuum line at a point where I could access it later to reconnect should I ever need to. Installed Vacuum cap and a few wraps of electrical tape (tape probably not necessary but whatever. The drain plug was from a local catchall store. Think I had a total of about $7.50 in parts and $19 for the generic thermal sound matting, but I only used about 50 cents of the $19 purchase. So by my Indiana maths I have $8 in this project
After seeing the level of dust at 6000 miles, I think I should be checking my air filters too!
Awesome sir. Thanks a lot! Any sounds in the cabin you are "missing"? or it is all improved? I rock Cargraphic valve controller, X-Pipe racing exhaust, and about to mount their OAP.
I unplugged the vacuum line to the symposer with Soul's Resonated Race Exhaust - it went from nearly unbearable drone and booming in the 2000-2800rpm range to a pretty livable loudness in the 2200-2600rpm range.
Probably close to 50% reduction just unplugging the line.
Originally Posted by iliveoncaffiene
Drone didn't disappear, but instead of being very loud between 2000-2800rpm it's now about 50% quieter and only between roughly 2200-2700rpm (aka "livable").
It is right in my normal "cruising" speed range so I've had to adjust to either cruise in 3rd (3000rpm) or 5th (2000rpm) @ 40mph.
So, by "unplugging the vacuum line", you still have the Symposer components in place. Could they be adding to the remainder of the drone? If not, do you have an idea what could be causing the remaining drone? And, I'm guessing you have the exhaust valves open? Thanks.
Originally Posted by HooosierDaddy
..............
Sound improvement is dramatic! ............
Impressive write up. Thanks. Would you say the drone is gone 100% or 50% as @iliveoncaffiene reported? Exhaust valves are always open? If any drone still persists, ideas on what could be contributing? Thanks.
So, by "unplugging the vacuum line", you still have the Symposer components in place. Could they be adding to the remainder of the drone? If not, do you have an idea what could be causing the remaining drone? And, I'm guessing you have the exhaust valves open? Thanks.
Yes, all components are still in place. I plan on taking out the whole tube soon to see if it further reduces any drone - but I would expect (and so should you) some level of drone with the race exhaust regardless. The remaining drone is probably just a resonant frequency of the exhaust / cabin itself and there's not anything you can do about it short of a muffler or more restrictive exhaust.
As for the valves: the exhaust valves are 100% irrelevant in my case. The symposer vacuum line is disconnected and the PSE vacuum lines are disconnected as a result of having the race exhaust. The exhaust button does absolutely nothing on my car at the moment.
So, by "unplugging the vacuum line", you still have the Symposer components in place. Could they be adding to the remainder of the drone? If not, do you have an idea what could be causing the remaining drone? And, I'm guessing you have the exhaust valves open? Thanks.
Impressive write up. Thanks. Would you say the drone is gone 100% or 50% as @iliveoncaffiene reported? Exhaust valves are always open? If any drone still persists, ideas on what could be contributing? Thanks.
I'd say in my short drive that it's a very positive change. Totally gone? No, but one thing to note is that unlike previously with symposer connected, windows up the drone is mostly (90%) gone. I can actually hear the radio now! Windows down I can finally hear the exhaust instead of the booming drone. But what drone there is, is now more present with windows down. Perhaps what I'm now perceiving as drone is just the resonance in the exhaust since this is with windows down?
Originally Posted by iliveoncaffiene
Yes, all components are still in place. I plan on taking out the whole tube soon to see if it further reduces any drone - but I would expect (and so should you) some level of drone with the race exhaust regardless. The remaining drone is probably just a resonant frequency of the exhaust / cabin itself and there's not anything you can do about it short of a muffler or more restrictive exhaust.
As for the valves: the exhaust valves are 100% irrelevant in my case. The symposer vacuum line is disconnected and the PSE vacuum lines are disconnected as a result of having the race exhaust. The exhaust button does absolutely nothing on my car at the moment.
I asked the question to John about just unplugging the vacuum line and we came to the conclusion to do a full extraction. I'm happy to have removed all the components but feel that unplugging the vacuum line is a very easy and effective now that I see how the system works.
Valve is closed with vacuum disconnected and has the tube completely blocked between intake and symposer. Could it introduce some resonance? Maybe, but the ease of this method makes it the simple solution and I don't think it's going to make a difference that us mere mortals will notice. In checking out the symposers parts and operation there is basically a valve like the PSE valve (plastic though). With Vacuum line unplugged I'd say you are eliminating the source of drone and have an effective plug between the intake and symposer. I'll get pictures of the valve itself and update, also to note is that it looks like the actual diaphragm in the symposer is something that can be opened, so maybe I'll look into that as well.
[/QUOTE] also to note is that it looks like the actual diaphragm in the symposer is something that can be opened, so maybe I'll look into that as well.[/QUOTE]
I opened it up and pulled the diaphragm out of the middle
@HooosierDaddy Thanks for all of the details, much appreciated! I will use some of this to disconnect the sound symposer on my Spyder...
So yes, a very dusty engine, do you rack up miles on dirt/gravel road, surely that can be from just driving on pavement?
our roads are dusty ****… plus 5500 miles already and that’s what you get! Rain or shine it gets used!
people think I wash my car a lot because I’m babying it. But 10 minutes after you wash a new layer of dust has settled. Our particular area is in a boom for new builds and it’s just bad around here.
parts of the synopses (stupid autocorrect) Symposer. Northeast Note the valve that opens and closes is a rubber seal. So IMO pulling vacuum line could be a viable and easy solution.
this is the other drain plug I picked up. Both are no tools needed, I just preferred the red one
Last edited by HooosierDaddy; 06-26-2021 at 04:44 PM.
Reason: Auto Correct Flubbed my post
I think it is the 25mm diameter. You could epoxy in a plastic plug and snap this right on, or hose clamp a rubber cap on it. I haven't looked, but if someone already reproduced the CAD and uploaded to GrabCAD, you could pull that in and 3D print it with the end plugged. I am pretty sure that NORMA had some dead-headed plugs as well, but they might have only been for development purposes. Not sure.
I think it is the 25mm diameter. You could epoxy in a plastic plug and snap this right on, or hose clamp a rubber cap on it. I haven't looked, but if someone already reproduced the CAD and uploaded to GrabCAD, you could pull that in and 3D print it with the end plugged. I am pretty sure that NORMA had some dead-headed plugs as well, but they might have only been for development purposes. Not sure.
That's it!
I think by the time you source this part, add labor & materials to plug it up, you'll be substantially more money than the drain plug I or others have used. But it would look perfect, especially if you could add a bung for the vacuum line to attach to, creating a plug for that as well.
Disconnecting the vacuum line seems the easiest solution. Cheap vacuum cap or even a wormscrew in the rubber end of the vacuum line and done.
Just skimming the thread again and noticed this pic. Wish I would have paid more attention to this single pic! Plugging after the vacuum controller eliminates having to mess with the vacuum line totally. Then you can remove the rest of the symposer components.
One drain plug/expansion plug, couple precut circular pieces of Dynamat (to plug the firewall) and you've got the perfect kit for removing the Sound Symposer!
That "floating snap drain plug" HoosierDaddy used can be found at Cabelas/Bass Pro Shop for $4. I'm no boater/fisherman but they apparently are common with those guys. I plan to do this mod soon, thanks for the pics and write-up.
06-25-2021, 11:28 PM
