348SStb

@sandy59
@Ksdaoski
@GrantG

Hello all,

I am attempting my first engine oil change post break-in at 1400 miles. All the panels are off. I will warm the car up tomorrow and do the engine oil change.

Two questions:
(1) We have the (main) engine oil drain plug, the oil reservoir tank plug, and the filter. What is the proper order of removal for draining?
(2) When tightening the new filter, did you guys actually use a torque wrench to tighten this thing to 14.75 ft-lbs? Or did you tighten it by hand? (I do not have the oil wrench tool that fits on the bottom of the filter, but I can obtain one if it’s really necessary).

Apologies if these were already mentioned in the thread. I tried reading as much as I could.

Ksdaoski

I don't know about a factory approved correct order. But I believe I did the main engine then the reservoir and then the filter. I did use a torque wrench for everything because I had it out.

348SStb

@Ksdaoski

Thank you. Did you buy the oil filter wrench from Porsche or did you have your own?

GrantG

I've always been used to draining the oil tank and then the engine from the aircooled days, but I don't think it matters. Make sure the oil filler cap is off to help the oil to drain more smoothly.

I do torque the filter, but it's not really necessary. However, you may as well get the filter wrench, since you'll probably need one to remove the filter next time.

Also if you have the metal oil tank drain style, you may want to loosen it first (without draining) when the engine is cold, tighten to 10Nm, warm up the engine and then drain. This helps to avoid putting stress on the tank fitting per a service bulletin. Not necessary if you have the newer plastic drain plug.

GrantG

Definitely don't need a Porsche oil filter wrench (but I do have the Hazet German one which is best quality).

Here is a pic (probably available elsewhere for less) or get a generic one:
https://www.kctool.com/hazet-2169-10...caAsVSEALw_wcB

Ksdaoski

I have way too many filter wrenches in the garage. I don't remember what I used or what size it was but I had one that fit. And I agree with the above to loosen while cold then warm it up. Also remove the fill cap before starting the draining process

348SStb

Thank you guys! My car has the plastic oil tank plug, so no need to loosen when cold.

I ordered the oil filter wrench — thank you; and I also bought a cheapo at Autozone which fits nice and snug.

I am however wondering the proper order of plug removal since the objective is to drain as much oil as possible… I will try to ask around.

GrantG

The drain plug order will not affect the amount of oil drained at all (remove both plugs and the filter in any order and leave them open and you're going to get the same amount out). The only things that will affect drained volume are temperature of the oil and duration of draining (and maybe the angle of the car). However, the car is purposely designed to drain 4.1 Liters (not as much as possible).

While Porsche did have to revise the workshop manual for the 992 GT3 to say that in some cases as much as 7 Liters will drain (if oil is hot enough and left to drain long enough), it's clear that this was never intended (and apparently, not desirable).

Due to this uncertainty, it's best to drain oil into a pan with measurement markings (so you know how much oil to add back).

348SStb

@GrantG
@Ksdaoski
@sandy59
@matttheboatman

Moments ago I just completed the Do-it-Yourself engine oil change on my 2024 718 Spyder RS. I will make a subsequent post with some details and with some things I learned. For now, I want to share some pictures.

- located in US
- 1,409 miles
- Street driving all the way (no track or closed course); carefully broken in and babied (under 5k RPMs) up to the required 930 miles break-in (even though 7K RPMs are permissible), then gradual increase of engine RPM; driven in warm climate so summertime-type temperatures
- Owned car about 3.5 weeks (yes, I’ve been driving it)
- 3 drains, 3 fills using C40 GT Mobil1 0W-40
- All drains occurred immediately after engine oil temperature was brought to 200 degrees Fahrenheit
- Careful measurements were taken of the discharged engine oil each time (Okay one tidbit for now — I learned after the first drain to relace significantly LESS than what comes out — replace 16 ounces less!)
- New crush washers on each reassembly of oil pan drain plug; installed a completely new drain plug after 3rd drain
- Utilized a completely new plastic drain plug for oil tank after 3rd drain
- Installed a completely new engine oil filter after third drain
- I only drove the car (without the three belly trays) the minimum required to arrive at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, which was about a 4-minute drive around the industrial park (I am wondering if this is enough to circulate the engine oil sufficiently?)
- I took samples of engine oil from each drain; so I have four test tubes as shown in the pictures from left to right: drain 1, drain 2, drain 3, and virgin. I provided two pictures just to show two different pictures of the same four test tubes.
- Just to clarify, since this can be confusing, the final (third) fill occurred AFTER the fluid sample in the third (from left) test tube was obtained; so if I drained it again (which I won’t), it’d be even cleaner than that one, but probably not by much according to Sandy59’s data provided previously in this thread. So I performed: drain-fill, drain-fill, drain-fill. So I consider that two flushes, since the first drain is just a drain and not a flush.

Thank you to everyone on this thread and especially the guys mentioned above for helping out! As I said I learned quite a bit and have some details to share, and I will do that a bit later.

Ksdaoski

It's crazy how after three times the oil is still so dark.


Nice job!
​​​​​
And great job driving the car!

slilley

Thanks for doing this, @348SStb. I didn't realize the new Mobil-1 GT oil was green to start!

The color change is interesting, but it's really not an effective judge of protection. To do that, you'd need to send the samples off to Blackstone to have oil analysis performed on each.

Such a PITA to need to do multiple drain-flushes, but I'm sure than two-cycles is better than the single drain done at the dealership. The real question is: how much better is each successive flush? If the standard service is just a single drain, maybe a second drain-fill provides all the extra needed to ensure long engine health. Only time will tell!

aus

So do we need to change the oil 3 times for a complete oil change like for a transmission fluid drain?
.

caymanpyrat

Hello all, I just took delivery of my GT4RS, production date was in late March 2024. I expect it will be delivered with BOTH the plastic drain plug and the new Mobil 1 C40 GT 0w40 spec oil. Many thanks to you all for this thread -- it seems like DIY may be the way to go if you really want to get a clean oil change. I had planned to change to my favorite track oil LiquiMoly but...there are plenty of indications this might void the engine warranty. So, I called LiquiMoly to ask if they have a oil that complies with the new spec -- and no they do not (as of the date of this post). LiquiMoly are still trying to crack the composition and then get approval of their spec. The LiquiMoly rep also said their phone has been ringing off the hook since the new Mobil 1 C40GT spec became the standard for all new GT engines. So...

My plan at this point is to
(1) drive the break in period
(2) change the oil, with at least one flush, probably two, and get the first drain portion sampled and sent to Blackstone.
(3) on the last fill, I plan to add Ceratec (from LiquiMoly) to the oil. I did this in my previous P-cars on the strong advice of a trusted Porsche race shop AND lots of advice elsewhere on Rennlist and Planet-9 forums. LiquiMoly told me that Ceratec is compliant with the Porsche spec as an additive, and will supplement any of the new protections being provided by the new spec Mobil 1 oil.

348SStb

@caymanpyrat

Congratulations!

I recommended three drains and three fills. I did mine at 1,409 miles.

I do not recommend adding any chemical that is not specifically mentioned or approved by Porsche. There are many shop operators and enthusiasts who recommend stuff like this, but they aren’t the engineers who designed the engine or the new C40 GT engine oil. If it has been approved by Porsche, please share the primary source approval document so we can review.