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I want to clarify that the oil plug 1 is indeed M10 not M9. M9 works but it has more give. With a low profile socket, you will not need to crowfoot extender to torque it properly.
I’ve found that the majority of XZN M10 sockets won’t fit (M9 works but is a little loose as you said). What brand is yours?
As stated above, the diffuser has 6 fasteners with torx head:
torx connectors shown with white arrow. Rear of car is at bottom of pic.
Moving forward, the next panel to remove looks like this: Connectors indicated by red arrows do not need to be removed. Rear of car is shown at bottom.
To remove the next panel shown, I first removed 4 torx connectors from the rear most panel covering the tunnel. This pic also shows why I could not use my Quick Jack or Safety Stands to support the car. These products prevent access to 2 outer-most connectors on each side. The car must be supported either by a lift or via the wheels with a ramp, according to my experience.
White arrows point to torx connector. Brown arrows point to bolts loosened with 10mm socket. Blue arrows put to nuts also loosed with 10 mm socket. Taken from rear of car.
Also, one way to correctly torque the oil panel drain plug is shown below. I removed the M9 triple-square bit from the socket using a few taps from a hammer with center punch. I also am using a crow foot extension on the torque wrench as shown below. Of course, the value set on the torque wrench must be modified from the 22.9 ft lbs given above. It turns out that a Torx 50 is a reasonable good fit to the oil pan drain valve.
One approach to use torque wrench when installing oil pan plug.
Finally, the tightening torque for the Mahle filter is shown on the outside of the filter to be 20 Nm.
If you look by your oil fill cap, I think you’ll see that you need Both C40 and 0W40 and there is only one such oil (Mobil 1 ESP X3). There is also an Audi approved oil, but think it’s just Mobil 1 in a different bottle.
M9 triple square is the only socket that fits for me…not M10.
i have a couple of each that I tried from various other endeavors.
The M9 is a slightly loose fit, but will work. However, once you use an M9 on the drain plug it will slightly damage the plug so even an M10 that would have fit when the plug was new will no longer fit.
A good quality M10 should fit in a brand new drain plug (I recently bought a Hazet that fit in a new plug but not one I had used previously and tightened/loosened with an M9 socket).
Anyway, if you can only make an M9 fit, then use that (torque value is low enough that you won’t have a problem). But probably best to replace the drain plug with a new one on next oil change.
The plug that was installed in the car (original equipment, as this was first oil change) would accept an M10 stubby with a little messaging while it was still in the car. Maybe it was because the engine/plug was warm and expanded ever so slightly? Therefore, I was able to use the M10 to remove the plug.
I had a new plug to use that suncoast sent with the oil change kit, but there was no way the M10 was going to fit in it. The M9 fit perfectly, but it wasn’t a stubby socket so I wouldn’t have been able to torque it without the crow’s foot wrench punching out the actual M9 bit.
As a result, I just reused the original plug (M10) with a new crush washer and torqued it to 22.5 ft lbs.
Regardless, the oil got changed…or at least half of it.
The plug that was installed in the car (original equipment, as this was first oil change) would accept an M10 stubby with a little messaging while it was still in the car. Maybe it was because the engine/plug was warm and expanded ever so slightly? Therefore, I was able to use the M10 to remove the plug.
I had a new plug to use that suncoast sent with the oil change kit, but there was no way the M10 was going to fit in it. The M9 fit perfectly, but it wasn’t a stubby socket so I wouldn’t have been able to torque it without the crow’s foot wrench punching out the actual M9 bit.
As a result, I just reused the original plug (M10) with a new crush washer and torqued it to 22.5 ft lbs.
Regardless, the oil got changed…or at least half of it.
Interesting. I have noticed that not all XZN M10 tools are the same dimensions. There is a fair amount of variability in those (and maybe in the drain plugs too). Sort of surprising, but if you have both M9 and M10 tools you'll be able to make at least one of them work.
Well if we are only getting 50% of the oil, then just do a double change and then you will get basically a 75% flush. Do the whole procedure, then when done run the motor for a few minutes, and then quickly drain the tank and small pan again of about 3.5 quarts, and then finally replenish with some more fresh oil and you are done.
Well if we are only getting 50% of the oil, then just do a double change and then you will get basically a 75% flush. Do the whole procedure, then when done run the motor for a few minutes, and then quickly drain the tank and small pan again of about 3.5 quarts, and then finally replenish with some more fresh oil and you are done.
I’ve heard that several of the 992 Cup (same engine) teams do 4 oil changes in a row like this (just run a few minutes in between) after every weekend.
I’ve heard that several of the 992 Cup (same engine) teams do 4 oil changes in a row like this (just run a few minutes in between) after every weekend.
Yeah, and particularly if Porsche’s rationale for only changing half the oil on an oil change is to conserve oil and limit waste. I’m not really sure what the rationale is, but this one crossed my mind.
09-03-2023, 01:55 PM
