lovetoturn

Yes, I do, like edub says and my mechanic suggests, too many changes for new ones all the time. You just need to crank them down about as hard as you can go. There is a nebulous torque setting of X amount plus another 1/4 turn or something like that. You need to lock another wrench onto the primary 16mm and make it very tight. Pulling on a single wrench won't do it. Tighten with the single wrench first as hard as you reasonably can and then retighten with the double wrench and you will see why these come loose sometimes.

That is an extra long 16mm Hazet wrench with an additional craftsman 19mm for further torque. Put the Hazet on first and then the second wrench when you are ready for the final tightening.

TDT

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lovetoturn

Camber plates don't affect the space between the spring and tire/wheel combo. That is a fixed distance as far as alignment adjustments go, and are determined by the size of the tire, wheel, and offset of the that wheel.

I am very happy with my 305 rears. My friends and I all appreciate the extra grip they provide. Well below the 315 and 325 sizes that are used on the 911s.

7184RS

Ok there shouldn't be any problem then 👍👍👍

TDT

Deleted comment…. Made mentioned of Dundon recommendations for their MCS coilover (along with camber plates and fully adjustable arms) in order to help with inside clearance.., as it is a much slimmer arrangement.
This is for running significantly wider tyres.

As for the general premise of running significantly wider tyres, I think this goes beyond optimising the car and moves into changing the car into something else.
Everyone can have their own opinion on this.

mrd_spy

The car cannot control the weight and rebound as it is, you want to add more unsprung weight and drag ! Not sure what you are trying to gain. people are loosing the advantages of the 4RS over the GT3 doing this stuff imo.

mrd_spy

My car runs more track front and rear then oem or people with camber plates and low number geo's, It's is the best way to do it upto a certain point. I might need to buy those VAG rear arch extenders like on the SRS.

7184RS

This is incorrect, after yesterday's @lovetoturn clarification I took a look into the suspension and both camber plates and shims move the whole thing so the Wheel / spring remains the same and it is not affected by static camber

mrd_spy

true yes :-) my mistake , you are moving the top of the shock so the whole thing moves, I was up too early :-) i'll change my post, I still never try and do it though as I like to have more track front and rear esp front to aid turn in.

Manifold

What would a good setup for the car be if the car will be used on track about 12 days a year at advanced level and driven aggressively on the road about 1-2k miles a year? Not chasing lap times on track, but I want the car to feel good on track, perform well, and avoid rapid tire wear due to insufficient camber.

mr965

Front -2.4
Rear .1.8

Taffy66

Not enough negative camber to avoid outside front tyre wear imo. I have about -3.2 f and about -2.7 r and seems to wear evenly. However my car has too much camber to perform optimally on a wet track. So it depends on whether you only track when dry or sometimes when wet.

vantage

Manifold:
There's definitely a judgment call there in terms of how much optimization you want to do for the track vs. road, but on the low end of camber, I don't think there is any issue at all running camber at -2.5 front / -2.0 rear on the road all the time for a car that driven only for fun. That's what I do on a GT4. So for you in a 4RS, the right answer is probably somewhere between that and -3.5 / - 3.0, which is pretty much a full on track setup. Locally, I see some advanced drivers turning excellent 4RS lap times with a setup exactly in the middle at (-3.0 / -2.5).

You'll need to install camber plates at some point to get the higher levels of camber, so that's another consideration.

mrd_spy

My cars fine on the roads and no parts needed for -2.7 front -2.2 rear. that also would be my advice to anyone 1st off as the cars very balanced and for £300 it's done. next step up after that depends what money you want to spend.

I hate bigger cambers myself and would look to fix issues doing other things over adding more camber. for me more camber always = less steering feel and less brakes then as Taffy said very bad in the wet.

My 718 Spyder had that and was not that nice on the road with that, but 1/2 as stiff but for what ever reason is was not that nice, I went back to -2.2 front in the 718 Spyder for road use the steering feel came back and the brakes were great.

after a geo you have a few options.
1: 9" front wheel
2: Rear Toe links and front camber plates.
3: Aero mods
4: Coilovers
5: AO52's

All the above :-) or just drive round it, my cars fine on track to be fair now, no need to wreck tyres, i did 2 track days oem geo did not wreck my tyres !! I drove to the car. people who wreck fronts are over driving the car when it does under steer, you might gain 0.5 seconds a lap at the cost of wrecking your front tyres !
You can feel these cars push so be slower on the throttle. As I have said a few times my car is understeering out the bend on WOT, cambers not the answer for that as you are already winding off the steering.

The car needs brakes before any of those above mods. Although I did use all my cambers last track day and still had to drive round the understeer, but I was pushing the car more out the bends which was hurting my tyres for a few laps that of course is not sustainable lap after lap I did alter how I drove it due to this. If you are bending your tyre treads you are over driving the car, no one should wreck tyres, my cars on 3.5k miles and 4 track days the tyres are ok still.

for me now it's in this order
1: pads and fluid
2: SSR Front splitter or silver rocket racing cannards and lower front aero cs part.
3: maybe a set of new wheels with a 9" front or coil overs or both and just get it all sorted :-) put PS4S on my oem wheels and AO52's on the new wheels.

I am sure then with coil overs and adjusting rake, I could get the car faster on my geo without adding camber plates and toe links.

where are people seeing understeer ?
for me out the bend these are the fixes.
1: stiffen front rebound (cannot do this on oem shocks)
2: stiffen rear bump (cannot do this on oem shocks)
3: lower front ride height.
4: raise rear, (I had to lower the rear for the dampers to work)
5: harder rear springs (oem damopers cannot cope with what we already have.)
6: Add front aero seems the 1st port of call really on an oem car.

7184RS

I didn't even wait to finish the break-in in order to change pads, brake fluid and install SS lines. It was the same story with my lotus...”Yes.... the pads are ok for track duty and the same for the brake fluid...” all lies.

I got a quote from SSR of 2700 Eur for the front splitter plus canards (including shipping and taxes), silver rocket option is less pricey but not sure how they compare to each other in actual gains, silver rocket adverts 17% downforce at 125mph, but I don't know SSR figures

A052 are always a win