mrd_spy

When is silverstone ?

Taffy66

The only aftermarket dampers which support FAL are made by KW or MCS. Someone who doesn’t have FAL on his 4RS have endless possibilities.

lovetoturn

That is the best way to improve your speed around the track. Also get an instructor or a skilled friend in the car with you form time to time. I drive nose to tail with my friends all the time and we try to learn from each other and correct minor issues that we see in each others lines and driving. After that, we all get the bug for upgrades or we wouldn't even be reading this.

Again it does not have to be a $35-50K spend. Items 1-3 are a given for anybody serious about the track to just get an advanced skill level geo. I don't need $30K to do aero. Like I said $7k will work fine for an awesome setup. You can also just spend a few thousand on canards, a rear spoiler, 3" inch taller rear wing risers, and or my bolt/bracket modifications to the rear wing to gain up to 150+ extra pounds of downforce. Better brake rotors and pads come along as just part of routine maintenance when it is time to replace them. Like I said, only about $1500 extra for the Essex rotors and $400 for steel lines for that. There is no extra labor here because it is done as part of routine car care. Don't really need new calipers unless you want a full Essex system.

These things that I mentioned don't have to be done all at the same. You can do them in a sequence to see how each benefits the car or a couple here and a couple there. I enjoy doing little projects over the year and then really appreciate the end product when most everything is done.

mrd_spy

$1500 for 408mm 2 piece rotors ?

Essex are $4.5k a set of 4.

Ksdaoski

Girodisc are $1900 front and $1700 rear

lovetoturn

"A set of the new Essex rotors with their S vanes can cool down the front rotors by about 150 degrees and still take 7 pounds off the rear axle for about $1500 more than discounted OEMs on your next replacement."

I said as a part of maintenance. Who chunks perfectly good OEM rotors on a new car as you break it in and start to bring it up to its potential. Mine will probably last another 5-10 days. What will I shortly be replacing these OEM rotors with ..... definitely not stock ones. So $4500 for the Essex rotors minus a $3000-3500 credit for the OEMs you would have to buy anyway and there you have your $1500 extra. That also essentially lowers the cost of any other perceived future brake upgrade if done at the end of the life expectancy of your current equipment. Sorry if I was not clear enough on that one.

Giro Discs are also a tried and true replacement option that I have personally used for years. Highly recommended. Unless you are going to do something else more fancy, all my friends pretty much use Giro Discs too on their first rotor replacements.

Taffy66

I will fit better brake discs when my OEM Iron ones wear out but not before. I don’t mind spending money but hate wasting it.

mrd_spy

but you would have to buy 4 new OEM disks to then sell it !

better to box the oem's now to put back on the car, imo that makes the most sense. you get new disks now which are better and you don't have to pay for oem which WILL GO UP in price when you sell it. So it would cost more to wait and while you wait you have worse braking performance. A loose loose :-)
Also less heat now means less calipers seal and puck damage on the oem calipers which are a poor design and hate heat.

No dealer is buying a car with AP disks on it in the UK sadly.

7184RS

To the vip and badge buyers we need to add the OEM less quality parts lovers

Ksdaoski

Rear toe of +2.5mm each side?

7184RS

Yes, I actually in the end left +2.5mm per side after a few days (from the original +2mm per side)

TDT

if buyer is lucky they might get both PFC and PCCB rotors thrown in.

Visceral

Competitive at what?

If you want a 992 GT3, go get one. At a track day you'll pass the same slow drivers and be passed by the same fast ones... just in a GT3.
Most of the people on this forum spend so little time at the track that a Cup Car wouldn't make them faster.

Now, if you want to make the 4rs more sublime to drive at the track (as little or as much as one does), sure.

1. Toe links, front plates, shims, seat recline widgets, a DSC controller, perhaps an OAP set, and a semi aggressive alignment. Choose a way to quantify your performance (Garmin Catalyst is a good starting place).

2. If you really do spend lots of time (say more than 5 track days a year last year... your intentions for next year dont count), the car is pretty sublime and now you have to worry about consumables adding up. Switch to Girodiscs and pads from PCCBs if you have them, buy a set of Apex Racing wheels and put some track tires on them. Consider how you might trailer the car to the track days (there are no tie-downs on the car, you have to add them or get comfortable with wheel straps) Get instruction time. No additional mods will do you any good without real skill. I promise.

3. 10+ days a year- Get full year track insurance from OpenTrack. Install a roll bar and harnesses. Get a HANS. Find a club you love and get involved in the club. Consider if you ever drive the car on the street. If you don't, consider a Cup Car or Clubsport and use the (big) difference to keep spares around and do more track days. If you still drive the car on the street, then muck around with aero and suspension to your heart's content... but I don't think you'll find track time any more sublime with too many more mods. A 992 GT3RS just makes more financial sense at that point, so join me on the waiting list for one of those. If you're thinking "but I can't afford a GT3RS", then I suggest you consider the Cup Car or Clubsport again.

Just my 2 cents.

Visceral

I should also highlight the improvements drivers can make by doing competitive autocross, at any stage of your car's mods. Also, super safe compared to track days. The drivers in your local autocross club will humble you and teach you a lot.

lovetoturn

And I'll add my 2 cents in and then we have 4 cents.

Well said. Everybody's level of sublime is different, so no point on spending too much money when you are not near the limits of the car. I would add a Simpson Hybrid S earlier on for safety. It was made to offer neck protection from a three point belt. I always have some form of HANS on when I am in the car, especially the right seat.