Zip tie won't melt?

 

[QUOTE=mrd_spy;19594024]Well that pretty much explains it. I don't really have the wiggle until I really pull a Daniel Riccardo and am likely in the 1.3-1.56 G range like in the video. This would be mostly on our back straight when going from 135 down to 45 mph. The other turns after a straight not so much when going 100-120. The worst is COTA turn 12 after the long 1 km long back straight going over 150 mph.

 

Nope. Look at all the other plastic nearby on the car. I believe the melting point of that stuff is close to 400 degrees. Now I don't put the zip-tie right next to the OAP pipe but 3-4 inches away seems to work just fine.

 

Simplistically, if you're braking really hard, the back of the car unloads and could be more prone to wiggling. Braking technique and damping can affect this, since there's a dynamic component to the unloading of the back of the car. Aero can help keep the back of the car pinned down, but you can't just increase downforce at the rear, since that will make the car tend to understeer. High inward toe at the rear would tend to create a restoring lateral force if the back of the car moves sideways. Bumpiness of the braking zone can create dynamic forces which make the back of the car bounce and unload. My remedy for a wiggling rear is to ramp up brake pressure smoothly (but not necessarily slowly) and then take off just enough brake pressure to stop the wiggling.

One must also be careful with toe at the front of the car, since excessive front toe in either direction can also cause problems with the front of the car wandering. The car should ideally go straight if the wheel is straight!

 

Does anyone get ticking sounds in the cabin when cruising along?

 

I've heard something like that but I quit worrying about the noise these motors make with my previous 991.1 GT3. That car sounded like garbage getting dumped when starting up and idling.

 

exactly how my 4RS sounds when idling warm…

 

Also, consider metal zip ties. I use them for anything near the exhaust or brakes-

 

These cars have a solid valvetrain and stiff transmission mounts that are happy to transmit throw-out bearing noise.

When I picked up my 991.2 GT3, I turned around and took it back to the dealer, where they chuckled and swore it was supposed to sound like that.

 

I am curious to hear people’s thoughts on the mag wheels and how noticeable they are to this car’s performance.

I am trying to decide how important they are and whether not having them would be missing out on something noticeably different or less.

All-in, they add nearly $30k to the cost, but as I’ve said to many, it’s not like money spent and more like money tied up, as I don’t expect these cars to suffer much depreciation.

I am a solid intermediate- to advanced-intermediate driver.

Thanks for your input.

 

Personally, for me, the only reason to get the Porsche OEM Mg wheels is for resale purposes. Or, if you do not intend on tracking them. They do look cool, and I think all Porsche GT cars should come standard with the Mg wheels.

That said, if you're looking to reduce unsprung weight (or mass) because you're going to be tracking your car seriously, I would go aftermarket. Not only it is cheaper, but from everything that I have heard aftermarket options are more durable than the OEM Mg wheels from Porsche.

 

Just to note that I bought a set of mags in black thru my UK dealer. Price was good (i asked for my Porsche UK parts discount and they yave me a bit more). So Non WP and both mags and alloys and less than usd30k.

However, car not here until end of this month so cant comment. On my GT4 whilst the mag wheels I bought (from Augment in Canada) were massively lighter on GT4 I could notice any difference with either OEM suspension or MR. I am a competitive Hillclimber.

 

When you add that last part, are you talking about track days? Because I definitely wouldn't bother with them then. They're simply too expensive to risk ruining on curbs or a quick off track excursion in my view. I love the look and weight savings, but if you're obsessed with lightweighting you could just pick up some lightweight aluminum alloy wheels that will get you most or all of the way there for less. So is it worth it? Probably not. Would I still be tempted to spec them if I were building a car? Yeah you bet. I think PCCB probably make more difference for less cash than those wheels in terms of saving weight, though it's closer than you think (because the farther out from the hub the weight or savings is the more it makes a difference). If you are a baller you spec WP, PCCB, and Mags and then if you're worried about the track you swap the wheels and rotors for something else for the track. Some lightweight aluminum wheels and Girodisc or Surface Transforms rotors (aftermarket carbon and even lighter). We don't know your financial position so it's hard to say how "worth it" they might be. PCCBs from Porsche are cheaper than buying even aftermarket carbon rotors from ST.

 

nothing gets you anywhere near let alone the same weight. Then if you do go hre lw they are the same price anyway as a mag and still weigh more !

 

What are the weights on the Mags? Aren't they 20k+ on their own even if you add to a non WP car after the fact?