When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just watch out or you can get to Level 5 (or higher) before you know it, But it's a good problem to have
I don't have Matt's obsession or bank account but there are 6 fully loaded cabinets to the left of this picture with years worth of tools, parts and chemicals and the old school red Craftsman tool chest in the picture started everything. When I got it I never figured I could fill it, that didn't last the first summer 30 years ago.
Oh, I've also cleaned up the garage since this picture, it was making me crazy with all the clutter.
I used a scissors jack like yours with my 987 Cayman S, then discovered MaxJax lifts. I got one and sold my scissors jack for almost half the cost of the MaxJax. Then I replaced the clutch for $500 worth of parts instead of paying someone $800-1000 to do the job. MaxJax paid for. I use it for all my cars, GTS 4.0, Cayenne and 540i. I just wish I'd bought it years ago.
For what it's worth, I just did an oil change with quickjack. I took out the 2 outermost fasteners that attach to the 3rd (middle) underbody tray before putting car up on quickjack. After that, put the car up on both the short and tall rubber blocks (you need the clearance for the panel to slide out; learn from me to save a step!). Then, the underbody tray is not hard to take out with quickjack. It's not a big pain, just need to know what to do and it'll be ok.
How did you get enough clearance to put the car on the quick jack with BOTH the short and tall rubber blocks? I have to use the short blocks, and even then there's just enough space it under the car when the car is on the ground...?
I tried this approach and just couldn't get the panel off.
I drive up on a 2x12x12 that I cut the center section out, so I can put the quick jack into place. My car is lowered 10 mm and when I have my 19s on I'm afraid the quick jack will hit. Works fine. Just have to cut 3 feet off each end of the boards.
How did you get enough clearance to put the car on the quick jack with BOTH the short and tall rubber blocks? I have to use the short blocks, and even then there's just enough space it under the car when the car is on the ground...?
I tried this approach and just couldn't get the panel off.
Some drive up on planks. I didn't have any but I had a bunch of extra Swisstrax tiles. So I raised the car using the short block from flat ground (only block I can easily squeeze in give car is quite low). Then lower car onto a stack of the tiles at each wheel (or any other strong thing you have to give a few inches height). Then there's enough clearance to stack the short and tall blocks on the quickjack to raise car. It takes an extra few min, but not hard. Coming down, have to do the reverse as well, because you won't have clearance to lower fully and take out the short/tall block stack.
I have a quick jack, but after finding that it makes taking the aero off a pain, and the fact that I’m only doing brakes, oil changes, and sway bay adjustments myself, I’m selling it to a friend and getting Rennstands by SafeJack. The QuickJack is awesome, but it takes up a lot of space when not in use and like I said, it makes getting aero off a pain in the butt.
I have the QJ BL-7000SLX and there is no need to remove anything from the car (718 GT4). I also purchase the QJ wallhangers so they don't take up much room to store. The jacks are heavy tho.. but I guess that's a good thing.
Rather than the electric or cordless impact gun/ratchet I recommend getting a reasonably sized compressor and air tools. The compressor will come in handy for a host of other things and air tools last forever. For the socket, any impact socket will do, just wrap the outside with a layer of duct or electrical tape and you're good to go. Most impact socket rim damage is user error
Thanks for starting this thread. I've been wanting to compile a list of new must-have items but my energy for this is being sapped by the stop-sale monster.
The purpose-made jack pads might be a better option (I don't know), but I purchased a half dozen hockey pucks over a decade ago for less than $2 apiece, and they've served very well in conjunction with an ordinary floor jack. They fit right in the steel cup, and are made of extremely hard rubber that to this day seems as durable as when new. With the weight of the vehicle on them they are not going anywhere, at least in my experience.
Some floor jacks already come equipped with a good rubberized jack point built into their design. Schwaben from ECS. More expensive, but you get whet you pay for. I know what I want holding up my car when I am changing from street to track wheels. The pucks with the oblong chassis attachments are nice too, that way you don't have to crawl down on your knee to line up the jackpad with the proper jack point.
Last edited by lovetoturn; 05-10-2021 at 08:43 PM.
Some floor jacks already come equipped with a good rubberized jack point built into their design. Schwaben from ECS. More expensive, but you get whet you pay for. I know what I want holding up my car when I am changing from street to track wheels. The pucks with the oblong chassis attachments are nice too, that way you don't have to crawl down on your knee to line up the jackpad with the proper jack point.
This is very similar to the Harbor Freight aluminum jacks.
Close to the same exact structure just colored red with a Schwaben logo
Last edited by iliveoncaffiene; 05-10-2021 at 09:12 PM.
This is very similar to the Harbor Freight aluminum jacks.
Close to the same exact structure just colored red with a Schwaben logo
I've had this or it's predecessor for more than a decade. It's light weight and perfect for taking to the track if needed to check tires or change brake pads. Would I use it without jack stands to crawl under a car? No, but properly deployed it's worth considering!
05-05-2021 | 10:38 PM
But it's a good problem to have 
