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I have had engine oil in car after car overfilled at Ferrari dealers, Porsche dealers, etc. Even Porsche themselves overfilled my GT3 at the factory. I had engine oil puking out of my Ferrari 599 air intakes causing a huge mess in the engine compartment and then on belly tray (and my garage floor). I’ve had engine oil puke out of the taillights after service at two different Porsche dealers on two different 911s. Every mechanic and every shop foreman at every dealer is “the best.”

A few years ago I started a new rule to eliminate this from ever happening.

EVERY service appointment paperwork has in writing: “Engine oil change capacity is x.x quarts. Fill engine oil to no more than 50% above minimum. Check with customer to verify level.” I also bring large photographs of the prior incidents (engine oil puking out of the taillights) as proof that it happened at two different Porsche dealers. “Well, that doesn’t happen here.” Oh really?

I will monitor my own goddamn engine oil level, thank you. It’s better to have the engine oil level AWAY from the max.

I have found that this technique has avoided overfilling and more or less keeps me far enough away from the MAX level. The service writers want 10/10 grades, so when they think I’m a nutjob about these little things they want to make me happy. I hope it would work well for others too.

Note: I have found that it’s risky to rely on the car’s level and add fluid accordingly. What I mean is, the level usually goes way higher than I expect even when my math is correct. Therefore I realized that adding fluid in no more than 8 ounce increments is the most practical way to add engine oil to a Porsche. I realized it’s better to never pour oil directly from the bottle but to measure first into a different container (measuring cup or what-have-you) and pour from there.

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Fun fact:
The only way I’ve been able to succeed in preventing tire shine from being put on my tires at time of new car delivery is to physically put blue painter’s tape across each of the four wheels with “No Tire Shine” written with black Sharpie. My salesman at Porsche knows the routine now and we meet every car at the garage after carrier unload to execute the procedure. Signage, verbal assurances — even a shotgun pointed at the head — these do not prevent detail guys from putting that slop on the tires. But the blue tape method has worked for me for the past few years.

 

Thumbs Up Shout Out to @aus on this info for us DIY oil change folks. At first I thought it was limited to the 5 QT Jug, yet it's also good for 5 - 1 qt bottles.

So I purchased 10 - 1 qt bottles of Mobil 1 X3 ESP 0W-40 oil and 2 STP Filters for a delivered to my door cost of $70.64.

Be careful to get the correct oil filter as their website first said that STP P908XL filter was for my 2022 Boxster 25 years, which is incorrect. The STP P908XL filter is equivalent to the Mahle OX254D for the 991.1 / 991.2 / 992 engines. The 4.0L uses the STP S11008XL which is equivalent to the Mahle OX366D. I order 1 of each since I have both engines in my garage. The STP filters appear physically identical to the Mahle filters.

I'll switch my 991.2 Targa 4GTS over to the Mobil C40 oil as it's just easier to "stock" this common oil for the Boxster, Targa and future 992 Carrera S.

Many Thanks to all for your information & expertise on this topic.

 

Doing my first DIY oil change on my 718 Spyder. First oil change after the break-in service. Only have 1k miles after the service, but changing it based on oil age + winter slumber. I guess I need to go with: Mobil 1 Oil - 0W-40 ESP X3 - C40. Approx. 8 - 8.5 quarts correct?

Can someone tell me the correct part number for the oil filter? Safe to assume Porsche sells these filters with the replacemet drain plug gasket / o ring if needed?
Is this the correct part? - 0PB-115-466-A

Thanks.

**** I'm not sure if this is being discussed enough, but apparantly, counterfeit / fake products are running rampant. I am very careful where I buy my oil filters (usually dealers). Apparantly, fake mobile 1 oils are running rampant and they look almost identical to the real thing. Please do take care and be careful. Especially from unknown ebay / amazon sellers. Even if I have to pay a bit more, or wait for the products to come in, I'm going to stick the authorized retailers such as major auto parts stores ***

 

Part numbers here
https://www.design911.com/porsche/ca...p/oil-filters/

 

Ths is perfect and confirmed. Thank you!

 

Fake Mobil1? This is the first I'm hearing of this. A quick search turned up Mobil's anti-counterfeiting guide here: https://www.mobil.com/en/sap/our-pro...ti-counterfeit

Personally, I'm going to check the packaging closely from now on but still used the only tried and true method I know: taste. Lower quality motor oils just don't have that Prop 65 tanginess you get from the real thing.

 

Not only mobile 1. But all types of premium brands. They just make fake premium bottles, and package them up with unknown cheap (likely dino-oil) into them. Problem with mom & pop shops is that not all of them are evil. They just buy what they can from their usual distributors or sometimes at a cheaper source so that they can be 1. Be more competitive 2. increase profits. But the thing is, because these things often happen at higher levels of supply chain, they themselves don't know that they are selling fakes.

This is why, if you want to be extra careful, make sure you are procuring from a large volume, national chains where they receive shipments directly from manufacturers, and not some middle-man distributors whom the consumers will never know about. As for the oil filters, if you buy a fake one, one can't tell the difference. Has all the OEM or after market high performance mfg printing all over it. Very difficult to tell. This is why when it comes to oil filters, I ONLY buy them from the dealership. Any parts for that matter.



Here's another video same guy (toyota master-tech). Check out the details here...


With 4 liter motors blowing up due to oil pump (hopefully resolved), this really hit home for me. I went to the Porsche dealer today to buy some oil change supplies. Ill keep my own maintenance records, along with the receipt for the filters + oils when I buy them from Advance Auto Parts, or perhaps O'Reilly's. In case something does happen, if it's caused by faulty filte or unsupported oil type, I'd be devastated. I'd gladly pay $5.00 - $7.00 / quart more to have that extra peace of mind.

 

Went to the dealer and bought 2 oil change sets. Something I've learned here. At the dealership, when you buy the filters, it doesn't include the replacement O rings. I also learned that the oil filler cap o ring is he same as the oil 'filter' o ring. Thought I'd share in case someone is interested in changing out the oil filler o ring. I won't bother with this one until the 3 rd oil change. Should be fine. any other cars, I wouldn't worry about this, but given the cap's location, it wouldn't hurt to change them out after few changes.

 

These o rings from the dealer is crazy high. It’s a mind game. they know some people like me won’t take any chances 😂. $28.00 for an o ring?? Or is this really what Porsche is charging the dealership minus reasonable margins?

anyhoo, this is what i paid today for 2 sets, doesn’t include oil at the dealership. 2 filters, 2 o rings, and 2 drain plugs.

 

Doesn't hurt to ask them for a discount. Some will play nice if you ask. Sometimes you can try to see if they give parts discounts for PCA members. Or just order online from dealership parts stores like Gaudin or Sunset. But sometimes the shipping costs will eat into your savings to the point it's not worth it. Looks like you're paying almost double what it would be to order from online before shipping costs.

 

I didn’t know that. i’ll ask next time!

 

My local autozone store has them for $11.50 / quart. Will buy 9 quarts. So for a DIY oil change, including drain plug replacement (for those replacing) for a 718 Spyder comes to roughly $180.00 if you use the parts from Porsche dealership. $168.00 if you are not replacing the drain plug. Still big savings compared to what the dealerships charge. I don't know the pricing at deaerships, but from what I can gather from here, it's anywhere betweeen $350 - $500? I'm sure the 4 liter engines are on the higher side. This means, the dealer is charging up to $320 for the labor alone (plus profits from parts sales, and assuming $500 / oil change). Just speculatin here...

https://www.autozone.com/motor-oil-a...rt/1177215_0_0

Similar to online prices but with peace of mind.

 

If I recall from a recent tire swap at my dealer.. I asked what an oil change would be for my GT4, and it was in the ballpark of $800.00 ($720 ish after 10% PCA member reduction) - no thanks!
A local shop that has been doing most of the work for me over the course of 10 years quoted 1.5 hrs of labor @ $120/hr, and I would supply the oil/filters/plug. However the cookie crumbles, dealer or not, one can assume their costs will come in roughly at the $400-500 mark.

AutoZones near me always has the C40.. that is until I wipe them out each time I walk in.

 

what?! $800 for GT4 / Spyder??? 10 DIY oil changes and a nice parking lift will pay for itself!

 

This comes up a lot.

$800 for an oil change?

Sure that wasn’t for a minor service interval? That’s about what my dealer charges for the minor service.

When you go to the indy, he’s just changing the oil. Which is fine also