Field Find 356 - Need advice
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Field Find 356 - Need advice
Hello all!
I am new to the 356 forum. I am a Porsche-a-holic and often post in other forums here on Rennlist. I have owned many P-Cars over the years, but never a 356.
I recently came across an opportunity to purchase a 356 that had been sitting outside for 10+ years. A Field-Find if you will. It has always been a dream to find an old treasure like this...
When I first saw the car, the wheels were 6 inches into the dirt from sitting so long. Green Mold had covered the car, and weeds were growing up through the body. There is significant rust on the bottom of the doors to the point they do not close...and in the front pan by the pedals. Open at one spot with a 6 inch hole to the floor. I have not figured out how to open the hood or trunk yet, so I don't even know how extensive the rust is in those spots.
Since this is the first time I am attempting to move it - I am not sure if it even rolls. or if I will damage it further by forcing it over the deep grass and dirt.
It needs to move 100 feet or more to get access to a trailer.
Where is a safe spot to fasten a tow hook?
What I would like to know, is what others have done in this situation - and in what order?
Once I do get it out of the field, how do you suggest I begin to determine the status of the engine and gearbox? And what SHOULD I NOT DO??
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I am new to the 356 forum. I am a Porsche-a-holic and often post in other forums here on Rennlist. I have owned many P-Cars over the years, but never a 356.
I recently came across an opportunity to purchase a 356 that had been sitting outside for 10+ years. A Field-Find if you will. It has always been a dream to find an old treasure like this...
When I first saw the car, the wheels were 6 inches into the dirt from sitting so long. Green Mold had covered the car, and weeds were growing up through the body. There is significant rust on the bottom of the doors to the point they do not close...and in the front pan by the pedals. Open at one spot with a 6 inch hole to the floor. I have not figured out how to open the hood or trunk yet, so I don't even know how extensive the rust is in those spots.
Since this is the first time I am attempting to move it - I am not sure if it even rolls. or if I will damage it further by forcing it over the deep grass and dirt.
It needs to move 100 feet or more to get access to a trailer.
Where is a safe spot to fasten a tow hook?
What I would like to know, is what others have done in this situation - and in what order?
Once I do get it out of the field, how do you suggest I begin to determine the status of the engine and gearbox? And what SHOULD I NOT DO??
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Go to the 356 Registry website. Get a shovel and start digging....really. These cars are strong but if the metal is damaged it will be the weak link in the chain. Would love to see pix in its current stage.
Take your time.
Take your time.
#3
Racer
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Is it going to your garage? The guys at Vintage on 41 will know of a good wrecker driver. Some one who will treat it gently. The guys can help get it out and to its new home on their flat bed.
Alternatively, as stated a shovel, plywood, 2 x 12s, winch or come alongs and it will budge. Once it starts moving friction will give way enough to GENTLY slide it out. With a tow truck it would be easier.
Congratulations on taking on such a project.
Regards,
Alternatively, as stated a shovel, plywood, 2 x 12s, winch or come alongs and it will budge. Once it starts moving friction will give way enough to GENTLY slide it out. With a tow truck it would be easier.
Congratulations on taking on such a project.
Regards,
#6
Addict
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Vinny, Congrats!
You ARE aware that one can be GIVEN a car like this, + $20K cash, & when all said & done, STILL be upside down?
& you are also aware that a functional, driving 356 Coupe (say, a B or C w/ N motor) can be had fairly reasonably these days, right?
ok, still enamored with the Field Find?
the chassis must be loosened from the Earth before you pull it w/ a tow truck. it could be so fragile that whatever piece you attach to (including the bumper bracket horns or their attachment points to the chassis) may very well give way & bend / snap before the car moves. high pressure water spray would be a good way to clear & soften the earth & sand & plant roots - possibly blow out the scorpions, too. if that isn't feasible, then lotsa manpower, 6-10 laborers w/ experience building pyramids or similar who will do exactly what you say should suffice. both approaches would be best... w/ copious amounts of beer.
once you have it out & somewhat clean (more hydraulics, then switch to pneumatics, perhaps?) you can assess if you wish to proceed (get all ID #s possible). find someone who really knows 356s (has restored them) & ask him WWJD & what a budget might be. be mentally prepared to bail - sometimes the hunt is MUCH more fun than everything afterwards...
best of luck & cheers!
You ARE aware that one can be GIVEN a car like this, + $20K cash, & when all said & done, STILL be upside down?
& you are also aware that a functional, driving 356 Coupe (say, a B or C w/ N motor) can be had fairly reasonably these days, right?
ok, still enamored with the Field Find?
the chassis must be loosened from the Earth before you pull it w/ a tow truck. it could be so fragile that whatever piece you attach to (including the bumper bracket horns or their attachment points to the chassis) may very well give way & bend / snap before the car moves. high pressure water spray would be a good way to clear & soften the earth & sand & plant roots - possibly blow out the scorpions, too. if that isn't feasible, then lotsa manpower, 6-10 laborers w/ experience building pyramids or similar who will do exactly what you say should suffice. both approaches would be best... w/ copious amounts of beer.
once you have it out & somewhat clean (more hydraulics, then switch to pneumatics, perhaps?) you can assess if you wish to proceed (get all ID #s possible). find someone who really knows 356s (has restored them) & ask him WWJD & what a budget might be. be mentally prepared to bail - sometimes the hunt is MUCH more fun than everything afterwards...
best of luck & cheers!
#7
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Try to hook around the front axle beam. Use a cargo style tie down strap no chains. The softer fabric strap will minimize damage. Do not use the bumper mounts to pull on it could do much more damage than you can think. Use steady even pulls no jerking. Dig the tires free first so they have a nice ramp back up to level ground. Bring a portable air tank with to try and get some air to stay in the tires long enough to drag the car. I am sure the wheels will not roll but they will drag much easier if they are aired up. If pulling from the rear do not pull from the axle. try to get around the torsion tube in front of the transmission.
A lot of people will say it is junk but you will not know until you drag it out and check it out. Of course you must take pics to show us. If nothing else it could at least be parted out and get you some money towards a car that will be useable.
JIM
A lot of people will say it is junk but you will not know until you drag it out and check it out. Of course you must take pics to show us. If nothing else it could at least be parted out and get you some money towards a car that will be useable.
JIM
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions!
Here are some photos of the car in its current condition. It's bad, but I am optimistic that this car be saved.
Taken from my cell phone, not the best photos, but you can get the idea.
Here are some photos of the car in its current condition. It's bad, but I am optimistic that this car be saved.
Taken from my cell phone, not the best photos, but you can get the idea.
#9
cooool. I would like to find a project like that to. Just wondering, how much is this costing? I bought a 62 a few years ago but it was a TOTAL rust bucket for $1500 with no motor. The guy ended up buying it back from me for parts for his 356 rebuild for the same price.
Good luck
Good luck
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
#13
Miserable Old Bastard
Rennlist Member
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Do you know what the VIN number is? (It's on a plate in the driver's door jamb if still there, and in the front trunk forward of the gas tank; it's probably 11xxxx). Mine is a 1960 but almost 61, maybe they were made close together!
#14
Racer
Thread Starter