d00d

Here’s my GT4, nothing new to see here, it has the red stitching.



0Q Pure White (C9A paint code) is a non metallic neutral white, and as the name infers it has no warm or cool tone.
Pure White replaced the slightly warm B4 Carrara White (B9A paint code) on the 981 starting July 2012.
Here’s a picture showing the difference.



I would’ve ordered the car in a color if Porsche had been successfully managing their PTS program;
Ultraviolet - not yet available on 9xx, except for the 991 RS as a special color.
Maritime Blue - shows a purple hue under fluorescent light.
Gulf Orange - orange!
Signal Yellow - best yellow ever.
Slate Grey RAL7015 - closest match to Audi Nardo Grey?
Mint Green - love it or hate it, matches the bathroom porcelain in my first home.

You haven’t been very creative Porsche with your colors lately, please add bright colors like 1974, check out what Mini is doing.
Yes, most cars are black, white or silver, but usually we can only buy what is offered.
My consolation is that red stitching doesn’t always match, but is perfect with white.
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370 miles - PCV vent to atmosphere (post 2):

Vaporized oil that isn’t filtered back to the crankcase by the fine oil separator will be returned through the intake, this will eventually cause carbon deposits on and around the intake valves in a DFI engine.
After learning about this issue too late, my S8 will need walnut shell blasting, so I decided to head off the issue with my GT4.

997 DFI intake at ~24K miles (NSFOCD warning);
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-build-up.html

Myth that fuel spray hits the back of the valves;
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post11117994

Catch can thread;
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9329...-solution.html
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850 miles - Attach front license plate bracket with Scotch outdoor mounting tape (post 3):

I don’t enjoy impromptu conversations with law enforcement regarding how I think the car looks better without, or how I left it off after cleaning, or…
Other options don’t look right, and this can be removed with moderate force.
The tape pulls away from the bracket first and can then be peeled off of the bumper if necessary.
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890 miles - Oil change to Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 and LN magnetic drain plug:

Trying to figure out what’s the best oil was inconclusive, wasted too much time, and made my head hurt.
Engine builders such as LN recommend this oil, so that’s going to have to be good enough for me.
The Motul 5L container has a pull out spout that makes it easier to pour without spilling.

There was metallic particle sludge at the bottom of the filter housing, didn’t check if it was steel or aluminum.
Ran a few quarts of sacrificial Mobil1 through the crankcase to flush out remaining used oil.
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900 miles - Break in period over:

The ROW manual has no break in period, just warm the oil and let it rip, why should NA be different, because lawyers?
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915 miles - IPD plenum and 82mm TB:

It was originally designed for the 987 and therefore the change over valve bracket is in the wrong place and the wiring harness won't reach it, but I was able to tie wrap it to a hose so it doesn't flop around.
Also, don't be afraid to give the vacuum unit arm’s head a tap with a hammer to make it mate with the swivel on the plenum.

http://www.planet-9.com/981-diy-disc...r-removal.html
http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-a...ce-so-far.html
http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-a...led-981cs.html
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920 miles - Disconnect PSE change over valve so flaps are always open (post 4):

Thanks user1029, no need to press the button anymore.
Usually when the button is pressed the flaps are closed under load until over 3K RPM, now with more rasp!
Another option is to just plug the vacuum line.

https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/9318...ud-noises.html
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935 miles - CEL comes on the second time I start the car after switching to the larger 82mm TB.
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980 miles - No longer get the CEL when starting the car, so I assume a TB adaptation has taken place.
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1520 miles - Still no drip from the VTA modification, reattach front license plate bracket with Sugru mouldable glue (post 41).
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2235 miles - Dundon race headers with Swain Tech White Lightning ceramic coating, Stage 8 locking fasteners, and Dundon COBB tune (post 55):

Catalysts? We don't need no stinkin' catalysts!
If your state only uses the ODB II port to test, as long as there isn’t a CEL and it’s in a ready state, you pass inspection.
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20170715 - Weighed car (post 64).
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20170806 - Installed Porsche Track Precision App (post 72).
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20170819 - Replaced radio with shelf, installed EarthX battery (posts 89 and 90).
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20171121 - Installed ProVent 200 catch can (post 81).
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20171222 - Installed lightweight Dundon exhaust (posts 77 and 84).
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20180819 - Upgraded catch can hose and fittings (post 95).
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20180919 - Xpel PPF by Unique Car Care and Automotive Elegance (uccboston.com/clearbraboston.com), thanks to Nizer for the recommendation (post 97).

d00d

PCV vent to atmosphere:

Parts;
PCV Breather Hose 038103493P (ECS Tuning)
Vent Cap 036131510 (ECS Tuning)
5’ 3/4” ID Silicone Hose 231-20455 (Jegs)
Airaid Filter 770-136 (Jegs)
3/4” x 3/4” Connector 47095 (Jegs)
Three small tie wraps

This is the fine oil separator (16);



This is the hose to remove (12).
The picture is wrong, the left end attaches to the fine oil separator, and the right end attaches to the intake plenum near the throttle body.
For reference, a hose (14) connects each cylinder bank (1 and 2) and the oil fill tube to the inlet port at the base of the fine oil separator, picture is wrong and shows it reversed;



Vent Cap 036131510;



Attach Vent Cap 036131510 to the intake;



PCV Breather Hose 038103493P;



Cut and file down end of PCV Breather Hose 038103493P;



Tie wrap Silicone Hose 231-20455 to modified PCV Breather Hose 038103493P;



Attach to fine oil separator;



Thread hose down through spiral brake line section so that it’s kept away from inner CV joint and axle;



Attach Airaid Filter 770-136 with 3/4” x 3/4” Connector 47095 to end of Silicone Hose 231-20455 and tie wrap in two places;

d00d

Attach front license plate bracket with Scotch outdoor mounting tape:

d00d

Disconnect PSE change over valve so flaps are always open:

coldfire

Subscribed. Good info here, thanks.

- Do you have more details on the PCV vent to atmosphere modification, is that documented elsewhere?
- Any error codes from disconnecting the PSE change over valve?

d00d

Thanks, I haven't seen a PCV modification documented on a Porsche, but there are ones for Audi and VW.
No error code disconnecting the PSE change over valve, and none expected as it's just a dumb valve.

neanicu

Good info here and Congrats on the car!

user1029

I hate catalytic converters with a passion.

1. They are expensive.
2. They clog up and rob power.
3. They can break down and chunks of it can damage the O2 sensor.
4. They rob sound.
5. They don't allow you to shoot flames.

Jimmy-D

So you now are running valveless on the stock muffler?? Can you comment more now on sound ect and if you are happy with this decision and if you feel any loss of torque ect.

okie981

+1000 Excellent post. Part numbers and photos included, posts like this are what make the interweb a wonderful thing.

Until OEMs design and install 99.9% effective oil vapor/mist separators on their new cars, all engines that have no fuel spray upstream of the intake valve (DFI) will suffer from carbon buildup upstream of the intake valve seat. But wait....diesel engines have been direct injection for decades...how have they been preventing these carbon buildups on intake valves....or have they? Hmmmm.

loungin

Awesome diys!

Do you burn (or lose) more oil with the Pcv vented to atmosphere?

coldfire

@d00d I might be tackling the PCV vent to atmosphere soon. Just wondering if you've noticed any noticeable oil drips onto the ground from the vent/filter? Thanks.

ShakeNBake

Next time I have to go into the engine compartment, I'll do the PCV mod - seems like a great idea. The only reason I'd be going into the engine is to remove the 82mm TB....which might happen, haven't decided yet - still hopeful Cobb will figure it out.

d00d

No noticeable loss of torque in running with valves open under 3K RPM.
I'd like to see a dynamometer comparison, but I'd imagine the difference to be minor, and I'd gladly trade that for the sound.

Regarding fine oil separators even at 99.9% efficiency, over time that .1% causes the problem unless port injection is also used, see VAG ROW EA888 I4 and the second generation R8/Huracan V10.
Diesels have the same problem.
Usually there is an over pressure valve in fine oil separators that allows vaporized oil to pass unfiltered under low load (not in gear) and high RPM.
Manufacturers could instead route it into the exhaust manifold after the fine oil separator, where it would be burned, like is done with cold start air injection.
However, there would be greater cost to include the back flow check valve.

No drip from the filter end after ~700 miles.

okie981

You're right, any oil whatsoever in the intake system will lead to some carbon buildup on hot parts. The OEMs have to deliver something that doesn't vent crankcase vapors directly to the atmosphere while also keeping crankcase pressures from building up due to compression and combustion pressures leaking around the piston rings. Also have to prevent ignition sources from making their way to the crankcase vapors in order to prevent inadvertent explosions. A simple example of that is the PCV valve on the valve cover of an older Chevy V8. That PCV valve only serves one purpose, to prevent a backfire in the intake manifold from reaching the vapors in the crankcase. I'm thinking there must be some type of flame arrestor or check valve in the 981 crankcase-to-intake system you removed the tube from? Venting to exhaust would work if you had a check valve like you said, but wouldn't you also need to keep crankcase pressures from building up and depending on exhaust back pressures that check valve might not open to vent the crankcase?

The exploding crankcase reminds me of my previous life working as an engineer for a company that made giant 20,000 horsepower engines for pumping natural gas across the US. I was told a story by a co-worker there about a crankcase explosion that blew a refrigerator sized hole in the side of the crankcase and it killed a guy. A misfiring cylinder allowed enough combustible mixture to build up in the crankcase and some ignition source lit it off. Boom. That engine was a V20, twin turbo. The turbos weighed 6,500 lb each, and one connecting rod cap weighed 600 pounds. Intake valves were about 5 inches in diameter, 2 per cylinder. I'm 6'2" and 200 (at the time) and I could easily stand up in a cylinder with the Pistons removed.

But I digress.

Thanks again for the excellent post.