manuxc

Hope this could help you
It's a .rar file renamed .zip

Tom@TPC Racing

THANK YOU!!
I will look at it when I get off work.

TrackDays247.com

Phew she sure needed help! I see this / hear of this when people bring their GT3 to an "import shop" that has not a clue as to the peculiarities of a GT3.

Protocav

Hey Tom,
I'm in the midst of calculating the spring lengths that I need for the new stiffer fronts, and I’m bouncing between two different choices. One choice will be just slightly short for the ride height I want to run and the spring will be a little loose in the seat (if I add a little bit of preload to seat it fully, the ride height will be too high). Not enough space for helpers on this choice. One size shorter will be really loose in the seats, but I really don’t want to run helper springs. On this shorter choice, I could either run a spring spacer or just add enough preload to get to the ride height that I want.

I noticed that you are running the genesis spring spacers and I wanted to get your thoughts on why you went this route as opposed to just adding preload to get the ride height that you wanted?

Tom@TPC Racing

To me, it is perfectly acceptable to have no preload, or what you are referring to as loose spring when the front shock is on full droop. If you are lifting a wheel on track the droop is a good amount less than lifting the entire car because the front bar limits the droop of the inside front corner suspension when the outside is loaded. You must make sure the spring is the proper matching ID for the perch and hat. If you are using 60mm ID metric springs then no problem. If you are using 2.25" ID spring then you need to change the hat & perch to match.

It is my preference to use a single long spring in the front of a streetable car because it is made from longer length of spring wire to smooth the bumps better. Using a tender or helper spring on the front will "use up" the amount of available travel of a street car shock and forces the use of a shorter main spring which is made from less length of wire and will increase harness over bumps as a result. Race cars are completely different story.

I used 1" tall spacers in the rear only because I used the rear springs that came with the damptronic coilover kit. Those springs rates were close enough to what I wanted. The 1" spacers put those rear springs within 0.1" to its original specified height when used with my rear mount kit. Otherwise I would have to buy 1" longer rear springs or keep the same springs and lose 1" of shock travel.

Tom@TPC Racing

Oh, and I am running a tender springs in the rear. The tender springs came with the damptronic kit. The rear shock bodies are threaded most of its length to accommodate reasonably long main springs AND tenders. The ride is pretty comfy for 700-ish rear springs!

Mvez

+1. Back when I "upgraded" the springs on my stock PASM setup, I used a long front spring (~400#), and rear spring (~672#). I did use a zero rate "helper" which barely even opened under full droop, so it was basically a 1" spacer and never extended while driving.

I believe I used 8" or 9" on both ends...or one of those combinations. Worked great, and the ride was better than expected for stiffer rates.

My current shock setup came with 8" length main springs (front and rear) with no helpers/tenders at all, for the exact same reasons you've mentioned regarding quality of ride and performance for a street/track car.

Your insight has been spot on and very informative, keep it coming!

Tom@TPC Racing

Just received the first batch of 3-axis accelerometers. I am excited to install the first one on my car! Unfortunately I can't do it until next week because the shop is busy preparing for the IMSA race at Watkins Glen. For now, just wanted to share my excitement. Oh, and Mike Levitas made a special DSC box for doing shock dyno demo. Exciting stuff to come!

Tom@TPC Racing

This DSC "test" box produces the output signals to simulate real road/track reaction from a PASM damper(shock).

onefstm

Hook me up please I am excited to see how this setups works.

Ur20v

exciting times... new product lines are always a good thing and of genuine interest!

Tom@TPC Racing

Will do as soon as they are tested and confirmed to work as expected. You'll have to send in your DSC box because each accelerometer must be zero'ed and sync'ed to each box. And we'll install the latest software.

Tom@TPC Racing

Thanks! Will keep posted after our team returns and get settled back in from the IMSA race at Watkins Glen.

Cloudspin

Good luck this weekend at WGI.

smdepm3

Keep me posted too Tom! Will be real interested in this once it's ready.