Goughary

What are the best quality inner and outer tie rods and ball joints for a C4. I'm going to do mine soon, and I'd really like to not have them go again for as long as possible.

David A

How about them: http://www.elephantracing.com/index.htm

dhc905

Is there a good way of testing to see if my newly installed oil cooler sensor is working? The sensor being incorrectly installed won't throw any error codes if I start the car without putting the front bumper back on, right?

I wouldn't normally be concerned, but the sensor I removed did not have a metal plate, and the one I installed did. I doubt it will make a difference, as the prior one was connected directly onto the metal of the car, but after spending hours cleaning my oil cooler, I definitelt want my fan to work when it needs to.

peter_jansen

Are you talking about the temperature sensor or the ballast resistor?

dhc905

Ballast resistor for the oil cooler.

Part number 993 616 521 01. The workshop manual says there is a "cooling plate", which makes me think it's alright, but after struggling with my bumper removal, don't want to repeat that only because my ballast resistor isn't sitting Right or not fully connected

peter_jansen

I just installed mine with the metal plate that you mentioned and it works just fine. The factory setting brings the fan on when the gauge hits 10 o'clock. Some guys have rigged the resistor with another small resistor to bring it on at 9 o'clock. If you run your car to 10 o'clock you will hear the fan come on. I don't think the metal piece should matter but I installed it anyway. There is a good thread on installation without having bumper off (maybe too late for you but worth a look). I replaced mine just as a precaution since the old one was the original. If you remove the relay in the fuse box you can short it and have the fan turn on as a check.

dhc905

Ah perfect. Will check that as soon as I get the fan back on. I removed for cleaning. Speaking of which, it appears there is a gasket there that has turned to dust essentially. Should I bother replacing that or just bolt back on without the gasket? If important, anyone have a part number?

peter_jansen

This might help.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=813-45

Goughary

Elephant makes no actual comment about what they are selling. So no dice there. What's the brand? Are they making them? If they are, how do they differentiate themselves from competitors...etc.

Also they make no comments c2/c4. OEM are not the same from c2 to c4 right? So what are they selling? c2 tie rods or c4 tie rods. And then once again, why are they different. If they aren't, then it's down to price....but I don't know enough from just looking at the site.

I'm happy to call sunset and go OEM. But is there a better choice?

Goughary

All I can gather is the following. Tie rods and ball joints should be OEM C4. And that only a C2 gets and upgrade since the C4 inners are a little more robust.

The only real modification that isn't part of a slippery slope that I don't need is "pinning"...which I also don't need but sounds like if it's done right, improves feedback, which would be nice.

alleykat

Where can I get some weld on metal fender flares? I don't care what year they're for.

wachen

This is definitely a silly little question:

What is the oil filler pipe connected to? It seems to disappear below the engine deck. Does the oil poured down this filler neck goes into the crank case? If so, what path?

jpar

It goes directly into the oil tank in front of the passenger side rear wheel via the short hose on top in this picture.

dhc905

Thanks. I bought 10 feet of this stuff (part number 00004320488). Was very hard to find a non-OEM part for it, so I had to rush deliver the OEM part. Judging from how much I need, looks like I'll be tossing 6 feet of this back onto the board if anyone's interested.

HIGHLY recommend cleaning out your oil cooler; I went in with a toothpick to clean between the fins and you'd be SHOCKED at how much crap I pulled out. Compressed air did barely anything to help, this is a manual, labor of love sort of project.

And also the gasket between the fan and the cooler is almost guarunteed to be toast, so let me know when you need some of this unobtanium rope stuff.

dhc905

This might be a really silly question but here it is:

My AC doesn't work. I have no idea what the condition of the AC motor is, but it has been disconnected from the engine since I bought the car. I was told it hasn't been retrofitted (it's a 91), but I have no idea.

I'm a very anti-AC guy. Barely use it in my regular cars, much to the chagrin of my passengers. I have the bumper off, checked the condensor and it looks fine. BUT, I'm thinking that I will be taking the AC motor off in the near future, and so, maybe I should pull the AC condensor unit out as well? I figure I would leave the hoses in place in case at some future point I or (god forbid) a future owner wants to get it done, they will only need to bolt on new parts.

So, question is, if I'm planning on pulling the AC motor out anyway, should I unhook the AC condensor unit as well and set all that stuff aside? Is there a way of testing whether it works when outside the car?