reprogramming the spoiler
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
reprogramming the spoiler
I read a thread a while back about the ruf spoiler conversion that reprograms the spoiler to go up at around 70 mph and down once you are under maybe 30-40 or therabouts...
but...that was some sort or ridiculous cost...is there an inexpensive/easy way to get this type of change done?
but...that was some sort or ridiculous cost...is there an inexpensive/easy way to get this type of change done?
#2
Rennlist Member
There's a "free" way to do it: tape over two pins.
I've bypassed the "automatic" feature a couple years ago and love it.
I prefer the clean look of the 964's silhouette and find it annoying that the engine cover spoiler is constantly going up and down in traffic. That's not necessary.
With this simple mod, the spoiler stays down in and around town and only extends when you reach 76 MPH.
It will stay extended (even if you come to a complete stop), until you manually retract it.
Here's my thread on it:
spoiler control - switch activated only*
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ated-only.html
I got the idea from Garrett376
spoiler behavior change - making it switch activated only
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ated-only.html
this looks interesting also...
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ol-module.html
I've bypassed the "automatic" feature a couple years ago and love it.
I prefer the clean look of the 964's silhouette and find it annoying that the engine cover spoiler is constantly going up and down in traffic. That's not necessary.
With this simple mod, the spoiler stays down in and around town and only extends when you reach 76 MPH.
It will stay extended (even if you come to a complete stop), until you manually retract it.
Here's my thread on it:
spoiler control - switch activated only*
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ated-only.html
I got the idea from Garrett376
spoiler behavior change - making it switch activated only
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ated-only.html
this looks interesting also...
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ol-module.html
#3
Nordschleife Master
Interesting. I might try this. I guess I could open it up manually if I'm traveling under 76mph, or barely moving, and I feel I need open it up for more flow to the motor.
#4
Race Car
Thread Starter
perfect - if that works - that's what I am looking for. I thnk I saw 400 dollars in a thread somewhere to do the ruf conversion - which is just not worth it...
#5
Rennlist Member
My car is a '90, so the controler is under the passenger's seat.
I think it was moved to behind the dash somewhere in later models?
I think it was moved to behind the dash somewhere in later models?
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#8
Racer
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Location: sta. clarita calif.
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I , too, like this idea of "2-wire unplug and tape-off". Mine is just a tiny bit squirrelly (wont retract quickly enough after short stop and warning lites come on, etc., sometimes not). So, if I perform this on my '91 Cab, spoiler up at about 75-76mph and down only with manual, can I run it down with manual switch before slowing down to about 7mph. i.e., do I have full control to lower at say 35mph, or do I have to be in the rolling to a stop zone? Also, can I remove multipin plug from unit under dash without freeing it from metal retainer first? Thanx !
#9
Rennlist Member
...can I run it down with manual switch before slowing down to about 7mph. i.e., do I have full control to lower at say 35mph, or do I have to be in the rolling to a stop zone? Also, can I remove multipin plug from unit under dash without freeing it from metal retainer first? Thanx !
Up/down as you like at any speed below 76 mph.
I'm not sure about how to access the unit behind the dash? I left mine in place (under the seat) when I disconnected the two wires...just popped the cap off the end of the unit to expose the wires.
Pictures as located in a 1990.
#10
Rennlist Member
I found this in Garrett's thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/206777-spoiler-behavior-change-making-it-switch-activated-only.html (#12 post)
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/206777-spoiler-behavior-change-making-it-switch-activated-only.html (#12 post)
I did the "modification" to my cabrio- it takes about 2 minutes to perform on later 964's:
1. unplug the control unit wire harness (you don't even need to unscrew the control unit from the bracket) - 90 and 91 cars I think have this unit under the passenger seat so it might be a bit more difficult to reach it...
2. holding the plug from the wire harness, use a flat head screwdriver to pop off the back of the plug to see the wires
3. Slide out the #8 pin (green wire), and #12 pin (white/red) - they are labeled from the mating surface of the plug
4. Fold over those wires so you can close back up the plug - snap it back together
5. cover the wires with electrical tape, plug everything back in
1. unplug the control unit wire harness (you don't even need to unscrew the control unit from the bracket) - 90 and 91 cars I think have this unit under the passenger seat so it might be a bit more difficult to reach it...
2. holding the plug from the wire harness, use a flat head screwdriver to pop off the back of the plug to see the wires
3. Slide out the #8 pin (green wire), and #12 pin (white/red) - they are labeled from the mating surface of the plug
4. Fold over those wires so you can close back up the plug - snap it back together
5. cover the wires with electrical tape, plug everything back in
#11
Racer
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Thanks, 911Jetta.!! I'm guessing its below seat on my '91 Cab, and if so can you tell me WHICH one of the shown components is the one for said spoiler control? Thanx!
#12
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911Jetta, never mind, mine was under dash, so no description needed for under-seat layout. Mission is a fait accompli. Many thanx to ALL who contributed to this DIY. I'm diggin' the new MANUAL control of the rear spoiler!!!
Last edited by jody stowitts; 02-28-2012 at 10:02 PM. Reason: spelling
#13
Three Wheelin'
I'd have thought in this day and age you could knock out something pretty functional, fairly quickly with a generic Microcontroller/IO board like Arduino or PicAXE.
From the 993 thread it looks like the connector is problematic, but hell just chop the old connector off and leave enough pig tail on the old connector so you can reconnect it later if you want, that way you can use a generic connector.
There may even be a simpler solution if its just the speed at which it raises and lowers that you want to change - which would be to intercept the speed input signal and use a frequency-voltage converter chip (like one of these http://designtools.analog.com/dt/v2f/ad650.html) to give a voltage you can scale with a couple of pots in a bridge, then you can use another of the same chip as a voltage-frequency converter to convert back to a pulse speedo type signal. The instruction sheets for the converter chips I've used in the past come with a circuit for taxi door locks (which only lock above a certain speed) which would be starting point.
From the 993 thread it looks like the connector is problematic, but hell just chop the old connector off and leave enough pig tail on the old connector so you can reconnect it later if you want, that way you can use a generic connector.
There may even be a simpler solution if its just the speed at which it raises and lowers that you want to change - which would be to intercept the speed input signal and use a frequency-voltage converter chip (like one of these http://designtools.analog.com/dt/v2f/ad650.html) to give a voltage you can scale with a couple of pots in a bridge, then you can use another of the same chip as a voltage-frequency converter to convert back to a pulse speedo type signal. The instruction sheets for the converter chips I've used in the past come with a circuit for taxi door locks (which only lock above a certain speed) which would be starting point.
#14
Alex,
If you could whip something together for a price more reasonable than the Ruf unit, I'd bet there will be a queue forming at your door, even moreso if it is user programmable.
If you could whip something together for a price more reasonable than the Ruf unit, I'd bet there will be a queue forming at your door, even moreso if it is user programmable.
#15
Hi All,
Something could certainly be put together for a far more reasonable price. From a cursory look at a picture of the controller internals from the other thread, I even suspect that it may be possible to do so utilizing the original controller or most of the original controller. It would be a case of ship the functional controller, have it modified/tested and shipped back to you.
Respectfully however, I would not feel right in hijacking this "project" if for example Alex or anyone else prior in this thread is working towards a sellable solution.
So please post and let me know if there still is interest in this and if my pursuit of a sellable solution would NOT be hijacking or squashing someone's efforts already in progress (eg. Alex). As a free-lance electronics designer, I have the background to do this but also importantly I also have my own (small) professional production/testing facility/equipment.
Either way, I'd be happy to share my thoughts on how I believe the original controller can be modified to pull this off and for a reasonable cost.
Something could certainly be put together for a far more reasonable price. From a cursory look at a picture of the controller internals from the other thread, I even suspect that it may be possible to do so utilizing the original controller or most of the original controller. It would be a case of ship the functional controller, have it modified/tested and shipped back to you.
Respectfully however, I would not feel right in hijacking this "project" if for example Alex or anyone else prior in this thread is working towards a sellable solution.
So please post and let me know if there still is interest in this and if my pursuit of a sellable solution would NOT be hijacking or squashing someone's efforts already in progress (eg. Alex). As a free-lance electronics designer, I have the background to do this but also importantly I also have my own (small) professional production/testing facility/equipment.
Either way, I'd be happy to share my thoughts on how I believe the original controller can be modified to pull this off and for a reasonable cost.