alpinewhite

I pulled out the oil cooler today. These pics are after I've cleaned up the parts. I noticed that the o-rings aren't the green ones. Thus, I still have old ones. I can't obviously find anything that's broken, though. The oil pressure relief valve only looks like a spring. This is not what I saw on some how-to articles.

odonnell

That's the normal OPRV for pre-87 cars. There's a retrofit part, but it's not any better than the one you have...just put it back in and use the alignment tool

alpinewhite

On another thread, I read that if water were leaking into the combustion chamber because of a bad head gasket, plugs would look like there were steam-cleaned. I just pulled mine out and confirmed that they are not steam-clean clean.

I know that it doesn't guarantee that my head gasket is not leaking from water-to-oil passages but there is still hope. A leak from water to the combustion chamber would guarantee the need for a head gasket.

Yes, I eventually want to change the head gasket but I want to take things one step at a time.

Thanks again to all. I'll keep you posted.

odonnell

Leaking oil cooler seals don't explain bogging. Either there's oil leaking in, or you have too much fuel. Blown fpr, sticky injector, etc.

alpinewhite

Water in the oil (less lubrication) wouldn't do that? Come to think of it, when my 4runner had a blown head gasket, it ran fine except for the steam out of the exhaust when I accelerated. I had water in the oil too at that time.

odonnell

Your bearings suffer, but no, you would hear rod knock before you lost power (and when you lose power it would be sudden and obvious that major **** hit the fan)

Dougs951S

Just take the head off..you'll find your answer then

Right now, you're just wasting time

alpinewhite

Haha. This is the 3rd time I've done the timing belt on this car. 90k, 120k, and this one.

Are you Van Svenson on YouTube? If so, you've got some helpful videos.

I think I just might. It doesn't look that much more than what I've already done to the motor. This video also gave me an idea of what's entailed.

Van

Yes, I am!

alpinewhite

Haha. You're awesome, dude. What did you mean by "90-degree rotation" at 2:40 on your video? Do you mean re-torque it all after spinning the crankshaft 90 degrees?

Van

No, it's called a "90 degree torque angle" - meaning you turn the nut 90 degrees, which stretches the head stud a very specific amount, which applies the correct clamping force. It's all outlined in the factory service manual (available in PDF online).

Glad you like the videos! (A clutch one is currently in the works...)

alpinewhite

Thanks. I looked at the FSM but it still didn't say it in detail. So, I searched and found this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...uing-head.html

Basically, here are the steps from what I understand:
1. Torque each nut to 20 Nm in the proper sequence.
2. Tighten each nut another 90 degrees using a breaker bar, again in the proper sequence.
3. Tighten each nut again another 90 degrees.

At the end, each nut would've been turned a half revolution after being torqued to 20 Nm. Is my understanding correct?

Van

You've got it. But do it in the stages specified to avoid applying an uneven stress on the head.

pfarah7

Alpine: Good luck on the car!

Van: I too am a fan of your videos.

Patrick

alpinewhite

How can I check this? Do I simply put the head on a surface plate and try to rock it?

I'm assuming that a new head gasket set comes with 10 new head nuts. Whose set should I get? AutoZone has a FelPro set for $168 (http://www.autozone.com/gaskets/head...?checkfit=true).

When I redid the Ford 460 on my boat, it was recommended to spray the head gaskets with copper head gasket material and let them dry prior to installation. From Van's video, I see no such thing. I'm guessing that the copper spray is not used on the 944.

Approximately what torque would the nuts be at the end?

Do you have a thread for your car?