odurandina

thanks Doc.... we'll look into moving it.

Aerominus thanks for posting that....


ok,

got a chance to drive it some again.... the engine appears to be making good on the hype.


the brakes still suck, hard breaking is fine, but the fronts still are not disengaging enough.

we also need to look at the rears to make sure they're disengaging properly.

we'll try working the rust off the rotors and change the front lines out Monday or Tuesday.

the hydroboost master is confusing. seems there's 2 separate lines coming off it.

if our eyes are not deceiving us,

in this regime, how does one go about running a proportioning valve?

I imagine we'll get this sorted eventually, but for now I'm fairly lost.


.

Amber Gramps

Looks to me that there are two fuel filters....one out back and the one against the firewall. The oil pressure sending unit could also use some rethinking. I'd prefer it to be mounted a bit more solid against the engine rather than on the little pigtail it is on.

docwyte

If the factory Porsche fuel filter is still attached at the back of the fuel tank, I'd remove it and use that spot to mount the LS fuel filter instead...

odurandina

the next catastrophe is the clutch.... as of this moment it's a deal breaker.

way, WAY TOO HEAVY. I'm not an elephant. and if I was, I'd still be pissed.

one more THING I ain't got the first clue about how to solve....

the one bright note from yesterday, was Lart, having a 968 M030 front bar.

this replaces the missing Weltmeister bar that would likely have been so noisy, I'd have probably replaced it anyway.


somebody needs to get the red 968 Lart has available.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...n-one-day.html

the 944T (in the background) is also for sale.


.

arthropraxis

I used a Spec clutch first and it was extremely heavy, grabby and impossible to drive smoothy in stop and go traffic. Swapped it out for a LS7 clutch pack using an appropriate disc for the input spines and it is like driving a factory clutch, because it is. My wife drives my car with no issues or complaints of a heavy clutch.

docwyte

Make sure the helper clutch pedal spring is still installed. Eric likes to remove them and it makes the clutch really, really heavy on release without.

I have the Spec stage 2 clutch and while it's heavier than a stock clutch setup, it's not bad. I put that helper spring back in though...

odurandina

thanks Doc,

we must assume it is not on there!! as it takes about 3~4 times as long to complete a shift as it should.

and surely under this regime, my firewall isn't long for this world.

need to get a reinforcement plate ordered ASAP.

does anyone recall the vendor of that essential part?

docwyte

It's a porsche part. Lart actually sent another one to me...

arthropraxis

With the LS7 clutch you don't need the helper spring. FYI, in case you want to save the stress on the firewall. Something else that can contribute to the heavy pedal is the MC bore size that is being used. The bigger the bore the harder it is to push.

odurandina

thanks guys!!



if Eric installed the clutch I provided (a big IF), then it's a SPEC Stage 2 944/968 v8 clutch.


I don't like how the sound plays back on a cheap cellphone but for the moment, it'll have to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azKh...ature=youtu.be

odonnell

http://only944.com/partscatalog/only/firewallbrace/

Good seller.

odurandina

thanks Michael.

odurandina

we're going to get the M030 bar bushings, rear brake caliper rebuild kit and new front brake lines from Sunset.....

then the car is going for some minor engine surgery that 944 Track God's tech will solve.

out beyond that....

944 Track God to do list

hydroboost tuning
soften clutch
firewall brace
eliminate front fuel filter
front M030 bar on
alignment
968/997 front cover on
Carbon front splitter on

at that point, the break-in oil will be out of the pan and we can start doing burnouts, donuts, 3:00 a.m./8 mile desert passes and such

with the record light on.

odurandina

update,

while we wait on parts, we're getting a few more minor things done.

the MIA Weltmeister front bar and mounting kit has been FOUND and is now included in the inventory.....

so what to do??? mount the 968/M030 bar – or this MINDBOGGLINGLY HEAVY Weltmeister thing.

the Weltmeister bar is supposed to be quite loud. It'd be interesting to compare the two in normal street driving – and then for autocross/track day stuff....

anyone with any opinions to offer – your input is welcome.


180... then, 190mph confirmed on the gps speedo would be sort of cool some day

on a closed road like Nevada 318/Silver State....

you believe what I'm saying here... right?


got a lot of detailing done.... glass cleaned,
seats polished to a mirror shine.
carpets detailed while driver seat out,
new 8000k/55w Xenon ballasts/bulbs procured.... not yet installed in the headlamps.
new driver's side mirror on (Doug with the big save.... Bosch and Porsche are absolutely retarded)
like Doug says, the Sparco to Recaro seat sliders improved to perfection with Doug's fine welding skills....


more parts on the way....


the seats are black on charcoal, but in the bright desert sun you'd never know it...

plain to see we can only attempt interior pics after the sun sets.


.

odurandina

rear calipers are now completely rebuilt, w/ fresh paint baked on.... and mounted with new lines.

well, guess what? I've come into a fresh set of SSR GT3 knockoffs (exact duplicates of what I've been running the last 8 years).

this is nice, because now I can take the other ones and get them blasted and refinished - as they were getting a bit oxidized

and the finish was starting to bubble and flake off.

the newer wheels came with half cruddy front tires but almost new Sumatomo 275-35-18s rears.

I'm pretty set going with 285-35-18s going forward for the v8....

if anyone would like a pair of nice tires w/ what looks like about 95~98% tred, they're yours for $250 plus shipping.


I've got my 255-35/fronts swapped over and up....

i'll post some nice wheel/tire/brake pics either later today or tomorrow.


btw, don't let anyone tell ya that baking the paint on calipers ain't every bit as good as powdercoating!!

done right - IT IS.... just get em real super clean, scuff w/ 320, pre-treat with ammonia and get em real hot: like 300°...

then hang 'em up from a wire and apply engine paint in very thin coats.

finish with high heat gloss and you're home.

the engine paint on my front calipers is holding up perfect after 7 years

they still wash off spotless super easy with just Simple Green and a rag!!


.