Back Pad Needed! And The Story of a '74 1.8...
01-24-2011, 03:49 PM
#47
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I'm definitely going to do some more exploration regarding the engine deal. I can see a small part of a factory number, under the home made one (I'll try to photograph it later, maybe someone will recognize it), but I still have to figure out how the "rivets" hold it on. The replacement doesn't bother me; if it was a '58 Speedster or a '73 RS I would launch a worldwide hunt for a correct motor, but this car is slated to be a Bakersfield toy!
If the car had come into another person's hands, after inspection it would surely have become another parts car. Now it's about a month from being driven around the block, so I'm really pleased about that.
If the car had come into another person's hands, after inspection it would surely have become another parts car. Now it's about a month from being driven around the block, so I'm really pleased about that.
01-25-2011, 06:46 PM
#48
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The curious engine number plate...
Any ideas about what "55xx" means (I think "xx" is "74")? How about "AP?" What about the number itself?
Would the factory have done something like this? Are 914/4 engine numbers consecutive throughout the entire 914 production period; in other words, is this the "64,172" 4-cyl engine built?
Any ideas about what "55xx" means (I think "xx" is "74")? How about "AP?" What about the number itself?
Would the factory have done something like this? Are 914/4 engine numbers consecutive throughout the entire 914 production period; in other words, is this the "64,172" 4-cyl engine built?
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 01-26-2011 at 04:42 PM.
02-22-2011, 05:09 PM
#49
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BTW; I'm still looking for that elusive backpad, preferably one within reasonable (2 hour) driving distance from Bakersfield.
02-24-2011, 12:33 PM
#50
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http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/case.htm
Says an AP case is a 1.8 European transporter with carbs.
Says an AP case is a 1.8 European transporter with carbs.
02-25-2011, 10:03 PM
#51
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http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/case.htm
Says an AP case is a 1.8 European transporter with carbs.
Says an AP case is a 1.8 European transporter with carbs.
Oh what I would give to actually find out what happened to this poor car! BTW; I'm a valve adjustment and oil change away from driving the thing. That said, I found a broken CV joint bolt on one axle, and the shift rod at the trans is loose at the transmission pin screw. So I've still got some work to do... And the trans mounts are installed wrong, and the diff flange seals leak, and...
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 02-25-2011 at 11:20 PM.
03-03-2011, 11:08 PM
#53
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LOL! Fat chance! Right now I hurt bad enough that I forgot to take pictures! Loosen inboard CV joints, remove axle flanges and replace seals. Easy, huh? FOUR f'n hours later, trying to keep from setting the car on fire, chiseling,cutting, dremeling, etc., I finally got the axles loose and replaced the diff flange seals. Total casualties; 3 CV bolts too long, 1 bolt correct, 1 bolt broken, 3 bolts installed with a 500 psi impact wrench (super tight and the allen stripped round).
To gain space to work, I tried to remove the side shifter linkage. Took out the wrong pin screw (square 8mm head instead of allen type), which left the entire linkage loose - but that's another story, and worked the side shifter fork loose and out. Went forward to the coupler, which had the correct allen-type pin screw. Unfortunately the same #@&^**$^& moron that installed the CV joints installed the shifter parts. Screw stripped to round...
Damn! Drill slipped while removing the coupler pin screw. Screwed up the coupler. Finally got the coupler off the tunnel rod, and the pin screw hole is screwed up, which is probably why the screw was installed with a 5,000 psi impact wrench. I just ordered a new tunnel rod and coupler (both good/used) from AA, along with new front motor mounts. What the heck, I might as well replace those because I have to take the cross beam off to replace the tunnel shift rod. Thought that I had a shift fork seal in the drawer. I do have one but it's for a 14mm shaft, not a 15mm. One more part to order. And I thought that I might be able to drive the car around the block soon. Hah!
Waiting for parts...
This car will not get the better of me. ...get the better of me. ...get the better of...sheeeesh.
To gain space to work, I tried to remove the side shifter linkage. Took out the wrong pin screw (square 8mm head instead of allen type), which left the entire linkage loose - but that's another story, and worked the side shifter fork loose and out. Went forward to the coupler, which had the correct allen-type pin screw. Unfortunately the same #@&^**$^& moron that installed the CV joints installed the shifter parts. Screw stripped to round...
Damn! Drill slipped while removing the coupler pin screw. Screwed up the coupler. Finally got the coupler off the tunnel rod, and the pin screw hole is screwed up, which is probably why the screw was installed with a 5,000 psi impact wrench. I just ordered a new tunnel rod and coupler (both good/used) from AA, along with new front motor mounts. What the heck, I might as well replace those because I have to take the cross beam off to replace the tunnel shift rod. Thought that I had a shift fork seal in the drawer. I do have one but it's for a 14mm shaft, not a 15mm. One more part to order. And I thought that I might be able to drive the car around the block soon. Hah!
Waiting for parts...
This car will not get the better of me. ...get the better of me. ...get the better of...sheeeesh.
Last edited by Peter Zimmermann; 03-04-2011 at 09:56 PM.
03-10-2011, 08:43 PM
#54
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OK, guys. Time to get to the bottom of something. We have established that my engine is an "AP" series, which is a VW '74/75 transporter. A complete 1.8 l FI system (AFC) has been installed, and I've had to make many wiring and component corrections, and the car now runs (semi-poorly) for the first time in at least 8-9 years. I have never worked on VWs, well maybe a few beetles back when I was a teenager, so I'm having a problem.
First, it's been 25 years since I serviced a 914, but I remember how to find the timing mark if the paint mark is gone. I set up a mirror and light and did a 360 degrees crank rotation inspection about three times, can't find a mark of any kind in the normal location. Do any of you know how to set the timing on a VW "AP" engine, or if the flywheel has a mark on it, or if I somehow missed seeing a mark on the fan, or???
FYI: I removed the left valve cover and verified that the engine is on #1 when the distributor is on #1...
First, it's been 25 years since I serviced a 914, but I remember how to find the timing mark if the paint mark is gone. I set up a mirror and light and did a 360 degrees crank rotation inspection about three times, can't find a mark of any kind in the normal location. Do any of you know how to set the timing on a VW "AP" engine, or if the flywheel has a mark on it, or if I somehow missed seeing a mark on the fan, or???
FYI: I removed the left valve cover and verified that the engine is on #1 when the distributor is on #1...
03-11-2011, 09:56 AM
#56
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Use http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...914_timing.htm to put at least the TDC mark on. Then use a timing light with a rpm adjustment to set your timing.
03-11-2011, 03:35 PM
#57
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Matt, I've already done a good deal of what's outlined in the tech sheet, but I've printed the degree guide and will see if that gets me to TDC. I'm thinking about pulling #1 plug, putting something like a wire ty-rap in the hole, and pushing it up to TDC by turning the engine. When it reaches the point where it reverses direction I'll look at the impeller and see if I can find the mark, or create one with the template. Apparently the 1.8 (VW/Porsche) engine only has one mark, at 7.5 degrees, and no TDC mark. I'm assuming (we know what that means!) that all of the parts other than the long block are 914. I was wondering if the impeller fasteners are offset, or if the impeller can be installed so a timing mark might end up where it shouldn't be...?
03-26-2011, 03:07 PM
#58
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OK, I have shift parts. AA proved to be a big FAIL, but I found a tunnel shift rod from a very reliable source (pm me for details if you need them). I bought pin screws, CV joint gaskets, and a shift fork seal from a familiar wholesaler, and a used coupler housing, CV joint bolts and Schnorr lock washers from a friend (Marc at Red Line). The diff flange seals are done, the axles are connected and bolts torqued.
I took the engine mount cross beam down, replaced the tunnel shift rod, and discovered that the outboard mount bolts had been cut off with a chop saw, and the nuts had been installed by the cross thread (aka lock nut) method. Off to Budget Bolt for two 10mm x 80mm bolts, along with appropriate nuts and washers. That's back together, and at the same time I lowered the back of the trans far enough to turn the upside down rear mount spacer washers right side up, and discard the 911 engine mount washers that someone had bent to "fit."
Shift linkage today, and then I must find Z1 for cyl #1 TDC (new coil & condenser installed; still have to repair the injector trigger wire between the coil & ECU). It's starting to "feel" like a 914!
I took the engine mount cross beam down, replaced the tunnel shift rod, and discovered that the outboard mount bolts had been cut off with a chop saw, and the nuts had been installed by the cross thread (aka lock nut) method. Off to Budget Bolt for two 10mm x 80mm bolts, along with appropriate nuts and washers. That's back together, and at the same time I lowered the back of the trans far enough to turn the upside down rear mount spacer washers right side up, and discard the 911 engine mount washers that someone had bent to "fit."
Shift linkage today, and then I must find Z1 for cyl #1 TDC (new coil & condenser installed; still have to repair the injector trigger wire between the coil & ECU). It's starting to "feel" like a 914!