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I'm considering trying the Rennline or Fabspeed tie-down anchors on my GT4 in order to strap down the car inside my enclosed 24' trailer. Can anyone give a detailed description of how exactly you manage to attach the hook onto these tie-downs (not the ones at the jackpoint)? Currently I strap the car by weaving the straps through the spokes of the wheels. But, I've heard many folks over the years rave about the tie-downs. I'm looking for a quicker and/or easier way to strap down the car. Do I need to lay on the floor of the trailer and have a really long arm to attach the straps? A video would be ideal.
I'm considering trying the Rennline or Fabspeed tie-down anchors on my GT4 in order to strap down the car inside my enclosed 24' trailer. Can anyone give a detailed description of how exactly you manage to attach the hook onto these tie-downs (not the ones at the jackpoint)? Currently I strap the car by weaving the straps through the spokes of the wheels. But, I've heard many folks over the years rave about the tie-downs. I'm looking for a quicker and/or easier way to strap down the car. Do I need to lay on the floor of the trailer and have a really long arm to attach the straps? A video would be ideal.
yes u need to lie down on fllor to get the the hool
you also need different type of hook then the one you have currently. what you have will work but harder to hook. the tie down hole has small diameter.
yes u need to lie down on fllor to get the the hool
you also need different type of hook then the one you have currently. what you have will work but harder to hook. the tie down hole has small diameter.
Moots,
are you writing Chinglish?
Chromium,
here is a pic of my anchors. Works great on an open trailer.
I had them on my GT3. Maybe I have short arms but it was always a struggle to get the rears latched. And Mooty is right, I was basically crawling underneath the car trying to reach blindly for the hoops trying not to burn my face on the exhaust.
I had them on my GT3. Maybe I have short arms but it was always a struggle to get the rears latched. And Mooty is right, I was basically crawling underneath the car trying to reach blindly for the hoops trying not to burn my face on the exhaust.
How is this better than straps through the wheels? Plus the stress on the car during towing is smaller with wheel straps as they allow the car's suspension to help soak up the bumps. Zero issues with alignment change when you don't cross ties. Interested to hear other opinions as I may be switching from open to enclosed trailer soon.
The compression on the suspension is negligible, as the tow straps aren't pulling down at an extreme angle. I don't feel it compromises the suspension at all.
I'm considering trying the Rennline or Fabspeed tie-down anchors on my GT4 in order to strap down the car inside my enclosed 24' trailer. Can anyone give a detailed description of how exactly you manage to attach the hook onto these tie-downs (not the ones at the jackpoint)? Currently I strap the car by weaving the straps through the spokes of the wheels. But, I've heard many folks over the years rave about the tie-downs. I'm looking for a quicker and/or easier way to strap down the car. Do I need to lay on the floor of the trailer and have a really long arm to attach the straps? A video would be ideal.
I've used Rennline tie downs and I've also used straps through the wheels. I've used them both on open and enclosed trailers.
I had problems with the straps through the wheels. My track car does not have an emergency brake and I always trailer with the car in neutral. So the car is basically floating on the trailer with only the straps holding it in place. Over the course of a long trip the wheels of the car would spin slightly and the straps would loosen. This never caused an "incident" of any kind. But it was unsettling. It also created more weight transfer as the car moved back and forth on the trailer. Not good!
Once I moved to Rennline tie-downs the car remained rock solid on the trailer. No movement at all. No damage at all. No impact on suspension or alignment. The only challenge is when you're using these or the Fabspeed tie-downs on an enclosed trailer. You can easily attach the rear straps after the car is loaded. But unless you have an access door on both sides of the trailer you will need to squeeze yourself down the passenger side of the trailer to attach the front strap hook to the tie-down loop on the passenger side. I had Trailex install an extra door on the passenger side of my trailer so I wouldn't need to do this.
Before I load my car on my trailer I lay the front straps down flat on the floor of the trailer, extended to where the tie-downs will attach, and set just inside the two front tires so I won't run them over and they won't get pinned under the wheels. I can then reach in from the sides after the car is loaded to attach the two front tie-downs. The whole process is pretty easy.
One day I loaded my car a bit off center and had to wedge myself in between the fender and the trailer wall.
And I couldn't get back out.
Now I am often the last guy to leave the track, so there I was wondering when I would be found - and how I would explain myself.
Luckily I managed. Still felt stupid, though.
PS I like the Rennline tie downs too
I put the straps crossed in front from the jack points behind the front tires and throw the ends under the frunk lid
I hook the rears on with the *** hanging over the ramp so I don't get burned. But my back does get dirty..
Lord Reter, you are wise and noble. May you reign forever.
Seriously, this is pretty genius. Obviously it works great when winching the car up on the ramps as the car goes into the trailer. But what about when it comes time to unload? Don't you still have to lie on the floor and reach under the car to unhook? I suppose you could do the reverse process, but I don't like the idea of dragging the ratchet straps under the car as you take it out of the trailer and potentially running over them. Please explain your process of unloading.
Just to be clear, for the front tie-downs, I plan to use the ones at the chassis (requires cutting the plastic belly pan) instead of the ones at the jack points. I need all the clearance I can get, plus I use the Jack Point jack stands. I've modified mine so that the JP hat fits into the obround hole there.
03-14-2017, 01:18 AM
