L-Track Install Help on Aluminum Trailer Interior
#1
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Hi all, I picked up a new 24' ATC trailer that I plan to haul our racecars in. It did not come with any E or L track on the walls. I bought some L-track from Mac's to install but I wanted some advice on how to install them on the walls? Has anybody done this after the fact? I can see where the seams are on the walls but that is it. I don't think that would be enough to hold anything? Just looking to secure items like fuel cans, ez-ups, small toolbox, etc. Nothing REALLY heavy but stuff weighing 100#s or so.
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
#2
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I've seen lots of different innovative ideas. People run the track vertically, horizontally, on the floor, you name it. On the walls, you want to screw into the studs. I think atc trailers are 16", but some trailers are 24" on center. Shouldn't be hard to figure out.
#3
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I have personally installed hundreds of feet of the alum airline track from mac. i think they call it versa track.
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
#5
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There should be frame "studs" inside the aluminum skin. I have a schematic from Haulmark that shows exactly where they are on my trailer (measurement wise center to center). Maybe ATC could provide you with such a drawing if you contacted them?
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#8
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Are the studs made from square tubing or [ channel? How wide and thick?
#10
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And make sure you know the depth of the stud before the screw attempts to penetrate the outside of the trailer. I modified the outside of my featherlite yesterday with a couple of screws that went a little too far in. I ended up using washers with 1 1/4” screws to prevent further exterior dimples. Unfortunately I didn’t start with the washers for the first 8 screws.
#11
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Thread Starter
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Hi all, I picked up a new 24' ATC trailer that I plan to haul our racecars in. It did not come with any E or L track on the walls. I bought some L-track from Mac's to install but I wanted some advice on how to install them on the walls? Has anybody done this after the fact? I can see where the seams are on the walls but that is it. I don't think that would be enough to hold anything? Just looking to secure items like fuel cans, ez-ups, small toolbox, etc. Nothing REALLY heavy but stuff weighing 100#s or so.
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I ended up taking off one of the electrical outlets to get a gauge of how thick the sidewalls and studs are. I used 3/4 inch stainless screws. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.
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#12
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Looks great! I’m wondering if there are any metallurgical experts here that might be able to solve a mystery for me. I had installed my e track in my aluminum trailer and after about 6 months a white residue with a rough surface appeared all over the place around the etrack. My trailer walls are aluminum as it’s not a finished insulated wall. I’m guessing mixing metals is to blame but it’s only on certain strips of the etrack. I tried wiping it down but it looks like a metal reaction so I imagine it’ll continue. Any ideas of what is going on and how to stop it?
#13
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I finally got to this and had my cousin help hang these. I reached out to ATC and after calling about 15 times over multiple days I finally got someone to send me the schematic. Even then it was only one side. I talked to two different guys and they couldn’t have been more annoyed with my request. Pretty poor experience for a simple request for a very expensive product. I guess these days they have so much business it doesn’t matter.
FWIW, InTech puts 1/8" aluminum backers between the studs anywhere airline or E-track is installed on the walls.
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Nickshu (07-14-2022)
#14
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Hi OP, it's been a year since you installed that track. Any issues, or is it holding up well?
I got my 24" ATC with one row of track, and I'm thinking about adding a 2nd row right above the floor in some area.
I got my 24" ATC with one row of track, and I'm thinking about adding a 2nd row right above the floor in some area.
#15
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I have personally installed hundreds of feet of the alum airline track from mac. i think they call it versa track.
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
@stujelly do you reccommend using sheet metal screws to attach the track to the aluminum studs? Or which style screw holds best from your experience?