L-Track Install Help on Aluminum Trailer Interior
#1
7th Gear
Thread Starter
L-Track Install Help on Aluminum Trailer Interior
Hi all, I picked up a new 24' ATC trailer that I plan to haul our racecars in. It did not come with any E or L track on the walls. I bought some L-track from Mac's to install but I wanted some advice on how to install them on the walls? Has anybody done this after the fact? I can see where the seams are on the walls but that is it. I don't think that would be enough to hold anything? Just looking to secure items like fuel cans, ez-ups, small toolbox, etc. Nothing REALLY heavy but stuff weighing 100#s or so.
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
#2
Rennlist Member
I've seen lots of different innovative ideas. People run the track vertically, horizontally, on the floor, you name it. On the walls, you want to screw into the studs. I think atc trailers are 16", but some trailers are 24" on center. Shouldn't be hard to figure out.
#3
Rennlist Member
I have personally installed hundreds of feet of the alum airline track from mac. i think they call it versa track.
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
#5
Rennlist Member
There should be frame "studs" inside the aluminum skin. I have a schematic from Haulmark that shows exactly where they are on my trailer (measurement wise center to center). Maybe ATC could provide you with such a drawing if you contacted them?
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#8
Are the studs made from square tubing or [ channel? How wide and thick?
#10
Rennlist Member
And make sure you know the depth of the stud before the screw attempts to penetrate the outside of the trailer. I modified the outside of my featherlite yesterday with a couple of screws that went a little too far in. I ended up using washers with 1 1/4” screws to prevent further exterior dimples. Unfortunately I didn’t start with the washers for the first 8 screws.
#11
7th Gear
Thread Starter
Hi all, I picked up a new 24' ATC trailer that I plan to haul our racecars in. It did not come with any E or L track on the walls. I bought some L-track from Mac's to install but I wanted some advice on how to install them on the walls? Has anybody done this after the fact? I can see where the seams are on the walls but that is it. I don't think that would be enough to hold anything? Just looking to secure items like fuel cans, ez-ups, small toolbox, etc. Nothing REALLY heavy but stuff weighing 100#s or so.
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I am sure somebody else has done this before?
I ended up taking off one of the electrical outlets to get a gauge of how thick the sidewalls and studs are. I used 3/4 inch stainless screws. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.
#12
Rennlist Member
Looks great! I’m wondering if there are any metallurgical experts here that might be able to solve a mystery for me. I had installed my e track in my aluminum trailer and after about 6 months a white residue with a rough surface appeared all over the place around the etrack. My trailer walls are aluminum as it’s not a finished insulated wall. I’m guessing mixing metals is to blame but it’s only on certain strips of the etrack. I tried wiping it down but it looks like a metal reaction so I imagine it’ll continue. Any ideas of what is going on and how to stop it?
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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I finally got to this and had my cousin help hang these. I reached out to ATC and after calling about 15 times over multiple days I finally got someone to send me the schematic. Even then it was only one side. I talked to two different guys and they couldn’t have been more annoyed with my request. Pretty poor experience for a simple request for a very expensive product. I guess these days they have so much business it doesn’t matter.
FWIW, InTech puts 1/8" aluminum backers between the studs anywhere airline or E-track is installed on the walls.
The following users liked this post:
Nickshu (07-14-2022)
#14
Hi OP, it's been a year since you installed that track. Any issues, or is it holding up well?
I got my 24" ATC with one row of track, and I'm thinking about adding a 2nd row right above the floor in some area.
I got my 24" ATC with one row of track, and I'm thinking about adding a 2nd row right above the floor in some area.
#15
I have personally installed hundreds of feet of the alum airline track from mac. i think they call it versa track.
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
I counter sink the alum track to fit a screw flush so you can slide the clip past the screw.
I pre drill the studs, do Not use self tappers, they back out. I use the smallest drill bit I can to get the screw to really lock in. I usually install 1/4 screw. I would call ATC and see if they have the stud layout as it varies around the fenders and sometimes makes no sense. Unless you attach to a stud, it is a waste to put a screw in.
If you have the sheet metal trim at the top that is at an angle, remove it to see the stud layout.
Seems like overkill, but I typical remove all they exposed factory self taper screws and install a nice phillips head stainless screws. (except for anchors as stainless breaks too easy)
@stujelly do you reccommend using sheet metal screws to attach the track to the aluminum studs? Or which style screw holds best from your experience?