nxfedlt1

ATC is off on what they advertise. Maybe an uninsulated stripped down model is 3000, I mean really stripped down. I think mine was 5100 on the scales unloaded.

nxfedlt1

sorry, posted too quick.

I'm close to 9000 on the scales loaded.

Conekiller

I'm new to trailering as well and had the same idea but in my experience this doesn't work. My trailer is an open trailer and I added about 300 pounds of weight to the toolbox in the front to try and counterbalance my 911 being to far back when originally loaded. That only ended up increasing the toungue weight by about 75 pounds. I had to change up my tie straps to get the car further forward and the rear axle equal with the trailer axles to get the proper toungue weight.

BlueBarchetta

10-15% is a rule of thumb used to balance the load in a manner that puts enough weight forward to help prevent sway. There is no actual "limit" per se. Weight distribution hitches are designed to attempt to distribute the total load among the available axles on the tow vehicle and the trailer. It really has no correlation to tongue weight per se. The real limitations in trailering are tow rating, Payload, and rear axle weight rating of the tow vehicle. Tongue weight and weight distribution hitch have a relative bearing on 2 of those items.

Back to the OP's question. Never believe the "brochure" weight of the trailer. The actual weight will be on its data plate when you get it. But to answer your loading question, the best thing to do is simply spend some time at your local truck scales. They are set up so you can measure axle loads, tongue weights, total load of trailer, weights bearing on the tow vehicle, etc.

The scales have 3 independent pads, and you can change the location of your car inside the trailer, the rig across the scales, un hitch it and get the actual tongue weight, etc. once you have all that, you can determime you best loading practice, and where to place your tire rack.

mikemessi

If you winch it on you can pull it in backwards so the engine is in the front. Then you can position it more to the rear of the trailer and not waste that space.

911Königin

linzman

You guys are making this too complicated. The first time you take it out on the highway, you'll know if it's well balanced or not.

mikemessi

Not necessarily. It can trailer fine until way too light on the tongue. You wouldn't know unless you make an emergency swerve to avoid something.

mikemessi

But enclosed car haulers typically have the axles way towards the rear so unless you're pulling empty trailer with just 911 way to the back will never be a problem. If you pay attention when pulling in you can feel when weight shifts onto tongue. Initially tries to pull coupler off hitch then as you inch forward you can feel and see it roll over and push down on front. If always pull in to this point will be fine.

nxfedlt1

You can buy a tongue weight scale for about 150.00. I'm willing to loan mine out to the forum, just pay for shipping.

linzman

Lighten up Frances. See the It was said in jest, but if you're using a tongue weight scale, move the car 2-3 times, figure out the sweet spot, you're done. No need to check every time, With a rear engine car, most of the weight is going to be close to or over the trailer axles, moving it a few inches is not going to make a huge difference. Just make sure the car is not too far back.

Frank 993 C4S

Bingo!!!

This is the only way to do it correctly. There is no reason to start guessing around because finding out in a high wind or emergency brake situation that you've got it wrong can be expensive. Your max tongue weight will be limited by your hitch and the specs on your truck. 10- 15% of total trailer weight is a good number. There is no good reason to go higher.

http://sherline.com/product/sherline...-weight-scale/

ShakeNBake

+1 - super fast to check and you can throw it in the trailer, it a good use of $. I use mine all the time.

Paul Solk

I use one of these as well for real time... https://www.weigh-safe.com/