car positioning in trailer
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
car positioning in trailer
so I am buying a 24ft ATC Raven with car hauler plus package. it will be used to haul a 2003 cup and gear.
I am contemplating putting the tire rack across the trailer over the nose of the car.
I will be using the D rings to secure the car. Where will I end up positioning the car to get the weight reasonably balanced?
Where exactly should the tire rack go? how far from side door.
Other good suggestions welcome too
I am contemplating putting the tire rack across the trailer over the nose of the car.
I will be using the D rings to secure the car. Where will I end up positioning the car to get the weight reasonably balanced?
Where exactly should the tire rack go? how far from side door.
Other good suggestions welcome too
#3
Rennlist Member
Nice buy. You'll love it. Might want to consider the escape door before it's too late. Makes getting in and out of car much easier. As far as where to put the shoring beams, you're going to have to experiment with this. It really depends on what you're planning on putting in the cabinets, whether you carry spares, tool chest, etc. In my 24' (which I bought used), there is e-track on either side. It goes from just behind the door to well past where my windshield is on curbside, and from just behind base cabinets back to the edge of my escape door (old style) on roadside. I have room for 16 wheels on 4 shoring beams and it's perfect for my current needs, but it also gives me flexibility to move them as needed if I were only carrying 8 wheels on 2 shoring beams and had a different car that needed to be moved forward more (current car is front engine). Hope that makes sense and good luck.
#5
Rennlist Member
I like the shoring beam setup. It's a bit of a pain to thread a ratchet strap through the wheels every time. I am in and out of the trailer a lot during race weekends, so I take the beams down at the track for the weekend. Beats ducking under them. Currently trying to figure out a way to do it like the new version of the trailex enclosed trailers, where they have removable rods on top of the wheels to hold them down. Put tires on rack, snap rod in on both ends and go. Much easier. Currently Iput some eyelets on the end of each shoring beam to hook my straps to so they weren't pulling on the trailer wall, but there's room for improvement here.
#6
I have a 24' Intech and for now I'm loading my GT4 rear axle over rear trailer axle to get a decent balance until I load stuff in the front which will require a rebalance. Since you are using a rear engine car you most likely will have to move it up even further. That means if you plan on the escape door you may or may not better be good at gymnastics since its only 88" wide centered over the trailer axles compared to the Intech which is 120".
Basically what I'm getting at is that weight management will get be imperative. Just having the cabinets up front and then loading your spares across the hood with shoring beams may not be the best option for you. You will be front loading weight in the trailer. That will limit access, i.e. ducking, and may force you to move things behind the car for a proper balance.
Not sure about your tow vehicle but anything in a truck bed behind the rear axle of the truck will count as tongue weight complicating your balance even further.
+1
Basically what I'm getting at is that weight management will get be imperative. Just having the cabinets up front and then loading your spares across the hood with shoring beams may not be the best option for you. You will be front loading weight in the trailer. That will limit access, i.e. ducking, and may force you to move things behind the car for a proper balance.
Not sure about your tow vehicle but anything in a truck bed behind the rear axle of the truck will count as tongue weight complicating your balance even further.
+1
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I have a 24' Intech and for now I'm loading my GT4 rear axle over rear trailer axle to get a decent balance until I load stuff in the front which will require a rebalance. Since you are using a rear engine car you most likely will have to move it up even further. That means if you plan on the escape door you may or may not better be good at gymnastics since its only 88" wide centered over the trailer axles compared to the Intech which is 120".
Basically what I'm getting at is that weight management will get be imperative. Just having the cabinets up front and then loading your spares across the hood with shoring beams may not be the best option for you. You will be front loading weight in the trailer. That will limit access, i.e. ducking, and may force you to move things behind the car for a proper balance.
Basically what I'm getting at is that weight management will get be imperative. Just having the cabinets up front and then loading your spares across the hood with shoring beams may not be the best option for you. You will be front loading weight in the trailer. That will limit access, i.e. ducking, and may force you to move things behind the car for a proper balance.
I figured frontloading was good to counterbalance the rear engine of the cup car?
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#8
That is definitely an option to go that route. But I've seen enough cars after a track day needing a new alignment. If you have a skinny grand -son/daughter to steer you might want to bring him/her along to keep the car straight while loading (and to make their day).
#9
Rennlist Member
I don't know about this. I thought only the things behind the rear axle are used to calculate the proper size for a weight distribution system. They always show putting the tongue scale on a disconnected trailer.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Irma is causing car hauler delays so I only have pics of the previous owner:
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...up-2003-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...up-2003-a.html
#12
Thats trailer only. Anything behind the rear axle will drop the a$$ end of the truck even further. And due to the weight placement it will count towards tongue weight for balancing purposes. I believe that is stated in most owner's manuals in the the towing section.
#13
Rennlist Member
See this:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ue-weight.aspx
#14
Rennlist Member
Unloaded my 22 ATC is ~1400 lbs tongue weight, loaded I can drop it to ~1200. Thats full cabinets, 2 spare trailer wheels/tires,(one in floor, one in tongue gen cabinet), 8 spare wheels and tires, GT3, Onan 5.5 on the tongue, and built in fuel cell for the gen set, plus spare brake pads, 3x batteries, winch, etc etc etc.
My rear axle of the GT3 is behind the trailer rear axle at that.
My rear axle of the GT3 is behind the trailer rear axle at that.
#15
Rennlist Member
Unloaded my 22 ATC is ~1400 lbs tongue weight, loaded I can drop it to ~1200. Thats full cabinets, 2 spare trailer wheels/tires,(one in floor, one in tongue gen cabinet), 8 spare wheels and tires, GT3, Onan 5.5 on the tongue, and built in fuel cell for the gen set, plus spare brake pads, 3x batteries, winch, etc etc etc.
My rear axle of the GT3 is behind the trailer rear axle at that.
My rear axle of the GT3 is behind the trailer rear axle at that.
Does a weight dist hitch allow higher tongue weight?