Cayman RS - Project (Track Build, Part 1)
#16
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That's about right. 200-210 on the ECT will keep you at 240 on the OT. Once you hit 220 on the ECT, it's a downward spiral and you'll hit 270 on the oil. While it's not ideal, a 9A1 motor can survive this environment for up to 2.5 hours.
As for PDKs and over-heating, we don't have any PDK over-heating issues at Sebring in the summertime. The southeast U.S. is a good test bed for this stuff. PDK cars come with wet clutch cloolers. At BGB, we install gearbox coolers and power steering coolers. The DFI cars are already cooling the power steering fluid through the OEM oil cooler.
991s and 981s have no power steering hydraulics and they come equipped with transmission coolers and pumps, stock now. So...Porsche has been listening!
As for PDKs and over-heating, we don't have any PDK over-heating issues at Sebring in the summertime. The southeast U.S. is a good test bed for this stuff. PDK cars come with wet clutch cloolers. At BGB, we install gearbox coolers and power steering coolers. The DFI cars are already cooling the power steering fluid through the OEM oil cooler.
991s and 981s have no power steering hydraulics and they come equipped with transmission coolers and pumps, stock now. So...Porsche has been listening!
#17
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P.S. whoever said that 350 crank horsepower is the max bolt-on crank horsepower for a DFI 3.4L Cayman is not correctly informed. How else do did we do 175mph in a 3.4L Cayman at Daytona with a 3.4L stock motor?!?!?!?
#18
How else do you do 175 mph ?
It does 172mph stock lol
It does 172mph stock lol
#19
#23
I dug out the dyno before and after of the bolt on mods to my Cayman
plan to do the same to my SPyder in spring
plan to do the same to my SPyder in spring
#24
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More importantly, I'm curious if you see a similar gain on the Spyder or has Porsche already done many of these changes on the Spyder to get it to 320 Hp?
#25
If I do the spyder in spring I will also change the manafolds which I did NOT do on my cayman.
on the non dfi car there was a dead spot, doing the mods was worth it for that smooth power curve alone.
Remus has to be worth 10BHp the Cayman R has a bigger exhaust and gets 330BHp
hoping to get a nice round 350BHp this time doing the manafolds aswell.
I see cargraphic now have a full kit available
whats odd is the spyder kit is this "
Power Upgrade to 260KW / 354PS and 407Nm"
but the Cayman R kit is this quote !!!!
"Powerkit 4Power Upgrade to 268KW / 365PS and 421Nm"
they should be the same imo !!!!!
on the non dfi car there was a dead spot, doing the mods was worth it for that smooth power curve alone.
Remus has to be worth 10BHp the Cayman R has a bigger exhaust and gets 330BHp
hoping to get a nice round 350BHp this time doing the manafolds aswell.
I see cargraphic now have a full kit available
whats odd is the spyder kit is this "
Power Upgrade to 260KW / 354PS and 407Nm"
but the Cayman R kit is this quote !!!!
"Powerkit 4Power Upgrade to 268KW / 365PS and 421Nm"
they should be the same imo !!!!!
#27
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The majority of parts for transmission cooling, power steering cooling etc, are custom made parts that I will source from BGB Motorsports, one of the few teams that have successfully race prepared Grand Am spec Cayman's and numerous PDK cars. I haven't heard of many engine oil and coolant overheating issues on Gen 2 Cayman's as much as Gen 1's.
My wishful thinking (hope) is that I can get to 385hp with the following upgrades:
- Cargraphic Race Exhaust (incl. headers)
- IPD Competition Plenum
- 82mm GT3 Throttle Body
- BGB / Fabspeed Stage 2 Cold Air Intake
- Dimsport ECU Tune with 98 Octane Map
- Cylinder Work
385 would present a 55hp increase over stock. I think it might be possible with these upgrades.
On the horizon I have a 3.8L swap planned..
My wishful thinking (hope) is that I can get to 385hp with the following upgrades:
- Cargraphic Race Exhaust (incl. headers)
- IPD Competition Plenum
- 82mm GT3 Throttle Body
- BGB / Fabspeed Stage 2 Cold Air Intake
- Dimsport ECU Tune with 98 Octane Map
- Cylinder Work
385 would present a 55hp increase over stock. I think it might be possible with these upgrades.
On the horizon I have a 3.8L swap planned..
Check this out:
https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...et-racing.html
#28
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Unfortunately this entire thing is controlled by the oil temperature. When the car runs 200 to 210 on the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp - Be careful because i saw a car this weekend with ET which is Engine Temp or Engine Bay Temp on the AIM dash), it's happy and the oil will live at or around 220 - 230 degrees. Once your car gets to 225 on the ECT, the oil will begin to creep up to 250 and if you get anywhere close to 230, the oil will live around 270. Unfortunately this is where the car will pull timing and add fuel to protect the motor. While we have run these cars for 2.5 hours at these levels, it's only bceause we were forced to for points/racing reasons.
Having just spent the 3 hour enduro at Sebring in the PDK, I watched the car run 208/230 for 100 minutes straight. During the final lap i tried to put around to save fuel at 50% and the car's ECT dropped to 183 and the oil fell back to 208.
So...I think it's probably best advice to all of your PDK guys that run DEs that if you can, stop 1 lap earlier before they checker your session and do a real "cool-down" lap staying off the brakes and turning off Sport Plus and backing it down for a lap.
Having just spent the 3 hour enduro at Sebring in the PDK, I watched the car run 208/230 for 100 minutes straight. During the final lap i tried to put around to save fuel at 50% and the car's ECT dropped to 183 and the oil fell back to 208.
So...I think it's probably best advice to all of your PDK guys that run DEs that if you can, stop 1 lap earlier before they checker your session and do a real "cool-down" lap staying off the brakes and turning off Sport Plus and backing it down for a lap.
#29
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