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Basically fine scratches from what look like past poor washing technique. The paint will also need correcting, but that can wait. I guess the plastic on the lights is softer than the paint.
What do you suggest? I was going to use a DA on a very fine polish like Menzerna Super Finish 3500.
That’s exactly what I would do, tape off the edges first so the pad doesn’t cut into the paint around the lights. Also use a slow speed setting like 3 - 4 on the DA and light pressure.
Not sure if my garage light is good enough to see the difference. The masking tape proved hopeless as I use a hydrophobic foam product that is as slippery as heck. I need to buy myself a smaller DA.
What kind of pad are you using, it still looks a touch hazy? I typically use a blue finishing pad for plastics, enough to remove the haze but mild enough that the markings on the lens are not affected.
Also I add a coating of Carnauba on the plastics when I’m done, that seems to work very well at protecting them.
What kind of pad are you using, it still looks a touch hazy? I typically use a blue finishing pad for plastics, enough to remove the haze but mild enough that the markings on the lens are not affected.
Also I add a coating of Carnauba on the plastics when I’m done, that seems to work very well at protecting them.
I used a foam pad. I went to the detailing shop for supplies and they had a look at it. In their opinion I need to start with a medium cut and work up to the 500. As long as I keep the heat out of it I should be fine. I bought a 3" head for the DA and 3 pads. It’s a bit clumsy but I don’t need two DAs for home use.
Tail lights look perfect now, nice job! I’m not sure all that cutting was needed but you can’t argue the results.
Thanks. Next step is to work out a correction regimen for the paint. It's acceptable as is to the casual naked eye, but it has more to give. The paint thickness gauge shows I have plenty of meat to work with. I've also got new rear mud flaps to fit. I knew the left one was damaged, when buying the car as it showed up in the video taken in the showroom.
Thanks. Next step is to work out a correction regimen for the paint. It's acceptable as is to the casual naked eye, but it has more to give. The paint thickness gauge shows I have plenty of meat to work with. I've also got new rear mud flaps to fit. I knew the left one was damaged, when buying the car as it showed up in the video taken in the showroom.
Well considering it’s nearly 9 years old an has plenty of paint I don’t think it will hurt to polish it, especially if you know you can improve the reflective qualities.
About 5 years ago I did a very light polish on the exterior of my Spyder and I’m planning to do another polish again before its 9th birthday. I have some minor defects that I want to take care of, these are the two products I’m using:
That lower rubber flap takes a beating, I’m on my second set and about to change them out again. Installing the sticky tires definitely didn’t help.
I've been down the sticky tire route. They become like a drug. Unfortunately they are all but banned from our road trips as they tend to pick up and fling stones at following cars. I'm very impressed with the Michelin PS4S. With the left wheels now true I can lean on them in corners with confidence.
My ‘99 986 weighed in at 1,300.5kg on a set of race scales with full fluids but no occupants so I expected something similar with the Spyder. Wrong. I used the weighbridge at a local refuse transfer station and was surprised to find it weighed 1,365kg (no occupants). That’s similar to my 964C4. I’m not convinced it’s correct so I’ve booked the car in for a race scales weigh in
Interesting. So we know that PDK, PSE, A/C, Radio, cups, etc were all OPTIONS that added weight. I would be surprised if they quoted a low weight that required OPTIONS to hit....particularly when said options cost large sums of cash. The brakes don't drop that much weight, but the battery sure does. It's also interesting that yours has a rear weight bias. I thought I had read that 987's were nearly 50/50 though that figure may have been for manuals with the top left in the garage!
Edit: No, I'm not surprised they would do that. Why not charge more money to get the lightest Porsche made at the time.
Interesting data sheet just popped up on another thread.