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My car came with master switch wired to neg term with pull wire poking out from under the hood. It does not kill the engine while running. Pretty sure current setup will not pass tech and is sub-optimal at best, although car has current log book and has passed tech in the past.
My preference is to have an additional master in the car so I can cut power and kill engine while upside down waiting for the corner workers. Either master switch will need to kill engine and cut power. Car still uses stock ignition switch so I can kill still engine from drivers seat, but this is not my prefered method.(I will eventually convert to push button start down the road.)
Any help or suggestions how others address this much appreciated. TIA.
Small world, Im in Easton as well. What you need is the push button Cartek GT battery isolator. Has an external and an internal button so all power and ignition can be cut by corner worker or driver. I have this in my SPB and very happy with it, took a bit to figure out all the wiring but no problems in the end. If you don't want the hassle of installing then reach out to Bela at EPS right up the road in Waterbury to install or any other SPB needs.
You're correct that the car needs to have an external pull or button that will kill ignition and power when at 2K rpm.
Thanks for the quick response. Pretty sure I have solution using single throw, 2 pole switch, wiring ECU power to 2nd set of contacts. Will let you know how well this works. Thanks.
Thanks to all who've responded. Solution is single throw, 2 pole switch wired to interrupt ECU circuit. Works great. Will wire in series to dash mounted duplicate master switch as well.
Thanks to all who've responded. Solution is single throw, 2 pole switch wired to interrupt ECU circuit. Works great. Will wire in series to dash mounted duplicate master switch as well.
This works as long as your rulebook only requires you to kill the engine. But most rulebooks say you must isolate the battery AND kill the engine I believe.
-Mark