When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Finally getting around to the flexplate stuff and have a flex plate clamp I got from Rogers site. But when I got the bell housing off, I noticed that there was a weld(?) on the square part (not remembering the proper name). And it doesn't look like there is any pressure needs to be relieved.
Was this some sort of preventative maintenance I didn't know about? Should I still put the reinforcement clamp on? Just curious what some of you veterans think about it. It's a 1985 928s 32v US model.
Thanks guys, I'm just a dumbass, was looking at other examples and saw it too haha. The rib part does seem to be out quite far, so I think I might just release any pressure and torque it back down for now. I'll put the clamp on some other time.
Not every example slips and it seems that for some reason the earlier 25mm shaft equipped models seem much less prone compared to the later 28mm shaft models.
if you rub your finger against the exposed splines do you pick up a very fine orangy coloured dust?
Not every example slips and it seems that for some reason the earlier 25mm shaft equipped models seem much less prone compared to the later 28mm shaft models.
if you rub your finger against the exposed splines do you pick up a very fine orangy coloured dust?
Nothing orange comes off on my finger, is that a good thing?
Cant really put the clamp on it because the splines would be touching the clamp, so I don't know what to do...
Nothing orange comes off on my finger, is that a good thing?
Cant really put the clamp on it because the splines would be touching the clamp, so I don't know what to do...
The rusty powder when present is a sign that fretting corrosion has been taking place and that is the root case of the TBF problem so no movement and no rusty powder is a good sign. Out of curiosity where has this example spent most of its life?
The position of the clamp relative to the splines is a bit suspect but not all examples are the same.
What clamp do you have? Post a photo if you do not mind.
The rusty powder when present is a sign that fretting corrosion has been taking place and that is the root case of the TBF problem so no movement and no rusty powder is a good sign. Out of curiosity where has this example spent most of its life?
The position of the clamp relative to the splines is a bit suspect but not all examples are the same.
What clamp do you have? Post a photo if you do not mind.
She spent most of her life in Florida if I recall correctly. When I place the clamp on, the splines touch the tip of it. And the clamp I got was the ritech one:
There is a case where the Ritech clamp fails to align. I cannot remember the details but I seem to remember it is covered in the instructions and needs some adjustment at the rear clamp the implication being that the shaft is slightly out of position within the bearings
There is a case where the Ritech clamp fails to align. I cannot remember the details but I seem to remember it is covered in the instructions and needs some adjustment at the rear clamp the implication being that the shaft is slightly out of position within the bearings
Ah, I see that part of the instructions now. Guess that will be next weekends project.
Ah, I see that part of the instructions now. Guess that will be next weekends project.
It is very easy for the shaft to be knocked out of position slightly- do let us know how you get on.
To get good access to the rear bolt I drop the middle section of the exhaust and then the heat shields.
Finding the position of the rear clamp bolt is a bit tricky- best done with a friend to help you find it. Once I found it I painted an index mark on the damper where it aligns with the TDC pointer notch.
Today, 05:22 PM
Flex plate clamp welded?
