drivfour

I read on other forums that if you replace the chain tensioners one at a time, there is no need to lock the cams.
Although i get it that buying the tools and plugs and locking is "safer" is there really a big risk in doing one at a time?
Also if in the future I replace chain guides, can that be done without removing the engine reasonably?
Thanks
1999-- 996 c4

Mike Murphy

Following…You can replace the top and bottom tensioner pads (not guides) on both sides (that’s 4 in total) that are used in the Variocam part of the engine without removing the engine, that’s for sure.

I think there are 3 tensioners on this 5-chain engine.

I’m pretty sure the IMS chain guide cannot be replaced without splitting the case.

De Jeeper

Yes u can do the tensioners without locking. U still may want to put a pin in the harmonic pulley so nothing spins.

I would not recommend doing the variocam pads jn the car although it can be done. Its very tight and u have to get creative on a couple of the proceedural steps.

Just drop the motor its more to do but it may even be quicker in the long run.

Dharn55

In the 5 chain engine you can replace all the pads except for the Crank to IMS chain pad without splitting the cases but you will have to drop the engine, remove cams and other items.

Mike Murphy

And if you’re going to drop it, UAOS would be a smart move, IMO

NikosLee

So if you do all of this part of this ... any of this... does it correct cam deviations? (asking for a friend)

De Jeeper

Yes and no. It corrected both banks aboit 3-4*. This fixed my bank 1 to 0* but my bank 2 was still at -2.7*.. i figure it was chain stretch.

Mike Murphy

Haalex

Maybe a stupid question, but do you need to drain the oil to change the tensioners? I'm suspecting I have a bad bank 1 (driver's side) tensioner, i.e. the one with two rings on it. My engine starts rattling appx. 5 seconds after startup, and rattles for 10 to 30 seconds.

yelcab

On bank 1, yes the oil will come out.

islaTurbine

What year car?

Haalex

Late 98 build.

islaTurbine

I would still change the tensioner but don’t be shocked if the noise is still present. The 99’s had an earlier version of Lokasil that creates some noise like you describe for the first 30-60 seconds after a cold start. My 99 has done it for the 10 years that I’ve owned it even though I changed all three tensioners.

Haalex

Thanks - a question though: if I buy the tensioner (99610518602), do I need to buy the crush washer and the O-ring (99970734440)?

islaTurbine

My new tensioners came with the o-ring preinstalled but I had already bought them separately. I ended up using them on a household repair where they were a perfect fit. I figure if they can handle the brutal conditions of an engine they can handle a toilet fill system. 😆😆

I don’t recall if it came with the crush washers. You might search the PET and see if they are the same size as the crush washer(s) used on the manual transmission plug(s).